Can you Brew It recipe for Firestone Walker Union Jack

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I love this beer! Too bad it's almost gone.

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Just brewed this yesterday. Came in a little high at 1.076, but it smells amazing. Cant wait to try the final product. Pitched a starter (1500ml) of WLP002. Hope it turns out good! I love this beer!
 
Has anyone tried brewing this as a lager? I have Wyeast 2124 and have always wanted to make an India pale lager. Any advice is appreciated!
 
I think that if you do use 007, you should increase the mash temp a few degrees. That has just been the experience that I have had...007 at low mash temps will attenuate like crazy!

Eric

This is what I've come up with. Any thoughts?

2-Row Malt 14.00 lb
Munich 10L Malt 2.25 lb
Caramel 10L 1.75 lb
Carapils 1.25 lb

Mash @ 148-149F for 60min
Boil for 90min (be sure to account for an extra half hour of evap.)

0.75oz Warrior @ 60min
0.75oz Simcoe @ 60min
1.00oz Cascade @ 30min
1.00oz Centennial @ 30min
1.50oz Cascade @ Flame out
1.50oz Centennial @ Flame out

White Labs WLP001

Dry hop in primary 24 hours after krausen drop, Rack to secondary after 3 days of dry hopping.

Dry hops:
1.00oz Cascade
1.00oz Amarillo
0.50oz Chinook
0.50oz Centennial
0.50oz Simcoe

Per my software, expect:
Preboil 1.077
OG 1.089
FG 1.020
ABV 9.4%
IBU 84

Going to brew two batches of this soon (two different parties) - a good way to get rid of the piles of hops I have around and then restock.

After reading this thread, I too was curious about WLP002 vs. WLP007.

Just crunching the numbers, if the beer is 7.5% ABV with an OG of 1.070, that means we need to get to an FG of 1.013. That means 81.43% attenuation. I just don't see how that is possible with WLP002. From White Labs:

WLP002:
Attenuation: 63-70%
Flocculation: Very High
Optimum Fermentation Temperature: 65-68°F
(18-20°C)
Alcohol Tolerance: Medium

WLP007:
Attenuation: 70-80%
Flocculation: Medium to High
Optimum Fermentation Temperature: 65-70°F
(18-21°C)
Alcohol Tolerance: Medium-High



So I'm choosing WLP007 and following the exact mash schedule in the first post. I'll make a nice starter for the first batch, then pitch the proper amount of slurry for the second batch. I'll be sure and post my results.

And BTW, I've used S-04 in the past and thought it left a strange Ester profile (even when fermenting cool). Interested to see my results with WLP007 which is supposed to be the same strain.

So I've got my grain ground for this, check my 007 starter today and it smells like apple vinegar and the gravity hasn't dropped at all. 1st infection I've ever had....

So I'm at a cross roads...I'd like to brew this but all I've got to work with for yeast is S-04 and WLP001....

Curious as to what some folks would vote for a replacement...I don't feel comfortable sitting on ground grain for 2 weeks which will be the next time I could buy more yeast and brew....
 
atimmerman88 said:
So I've got my grain ground for this, check my 007 starter today and it smells like apple vinegar and the gravity hasn't dropped at all. 1st infection I've ever had.... So I'm at a cross roads...I'd like to brew this but all I've got to work with for yeast is S-04 and WLP001.... Curious as to what some folks would vote for a replacement...I don't feel comfortable sitting on ground grain for 2 weeks which will be the next time I could buy more yeast and brew....

I have brewed this with 001 and it makes a great beer. If you really want the English profile go with s04 but I think the esters from that yeast really get in the way of the hops. Definitely ferment cool at like 64 with s04. I would also assume your attenuation won't be like 007 with s04.
 
Well I am thrilled that I've wasted 400grams of DME and 2 vials on this one...

Turns out my stir bar must be infected, 2nd started went south. I made a 500mL started for 3711 from the same wort that was just fine....DAM

Well I've got 6gal of wort in the fridge, hope it's ok until I get more yeast this week..

I'm making a gallon of this ferm on 3711 for fun.
 
Well I am thrilled that I've wasted 400grams of DME and 2 vials on this one...

Turns out my stir bar must be infected, 2nd started went south. I made a 500mL started for 3711 from the same wort that was just fine....DAM

Well I've got 6gal of wort in the fridge, hope it's ok until I get more yeast this week..

I'm making a gallon of this ferm on 3711 for fun.

What are you using to sanitize? Are you sure your not smelling the apple/pear English esters from a higher temperature starter combined with nostril burning CO2?
 
Beezer94 said:
What are you using to sanitize? Are you sure your not smelling the apple/pear English esters from a higher temperature starter combined with nostril burning CO2?

Nearly 100% positive.
Starsan for everything...

WLP 001 and 007 had the same smell. 0 fermentation 2 days at 70f

The small starter for 3711 finished in 24 hrs and smells normal for a starter. I'm pretty sure it's the stir bar

Bought s05 to use tonight
 
Nearly 100% positive.
Starsan for everything...

WLP 001 and 007 had the same smell. 0 fermentation 2 days at 70f

The small starter for 3711 finished in 24 hrs and smells normal for a starter. I'm pretty sure it's the stir bar

Bought s05 to use tonight

Are you checking gravity with a refractometer? After any fermentation occurs the results are wrong. There are calculators that let your approximate values after the fact.

If you are using a hydrometer to check gravity of starter and it's still not dropping, what temperature are you pitching yeast into the starter?

2 days in starter without anything period means something is going wrong. Even if you had an 'infection' the gravity would likely be changing.

Just trying to help track down a problem.
 
Are you checking gravity with a refractometer? After any fermentation occurs the results are wrong. There are calculators that let your approximate values after the fact.

If you are using a hydrometer to check gravity of starter and it's still not dropping, what temperature are you pitching yeast into the starter?

2 days in starter without anything period means something is going wrong. Even if you had an 'infection' the gravity would likely be changing.

Just trying to help track down a problem.


Yes I am using a hydrometer. The yeast was pitched at 70. the yeast was at 70 and the starter was at 70

I had the exact same issue with 2 starters, the common denominator was the stir bar.

I've made 30 or 40 other starters with no issues. Stir bar went into trash, everything got deep cleaned. Pitched US05. Problem solved.

Sorry if this sounds like a rant, it is no ment to be.
 
Reviving this old thread because Union Jack is so delicious!

I'm brewing this tomorrow with WLP 200 and CTZ instead of Warrior. Plan to ferment at 65*. Curious how WLP 200 will do with this english inspired west coast IPA.

Cheers!
 
Reviving this old thread because Union Jack is so delicious!

I'm brewing this tomorrow with WLP 200 and CTZ instead of Warrior. Plan to ferment at 65*. Curious how WLP 200 will do with this english inspired west coast IPA.

Cheers!

WLP200 is a blend of WLP001 and WLP002 right? That seems like it would work great in any IPA.
 
Yep! WLP200 is a blend of 001/002. Attenuation of 001 but flocculation of 002. Ester profile is in between both.


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
I just did the first dry hop dose on this. Was at 1.015 and just a bubble every so often. I used wlp 007 and am using a conical so I'm dumping trub, yeast and hops with additions. Sample was very tasty.
 
I was browsing around for an IPA recipe for brew number 6 on my BIAB/induction system. I ran across the multiple CYBI episodes from Firestone Walker and this sounded too good to pass up, so I've got my ingredients precisely from the podcast, with the exception of 1968 instead of 002 (thanks LHBS :) . I'll probably brew it next week, and i plan on dry hopping per matt's instructions.

Wish me luck!
 
Wlp007 turned out pretty good but I do think this would do better with 002. I think there needs to be a little more sweetness. If I do this one again I might change the dry hop schedule to 7 days each. Still a fine beer.
 
I brewed this one today, finally. Missed the 1.070 OG target, came in at 1.064, but i'm kind of ok with that. With BIAB, i'm trying to get a little lower efficiencies to avoid thin finished beers (my oatmeal stout). Without adjusting the grain bill any, and trying a new batch sparge, i hit 70% mash efficiency, so im ok with that.

Pitching a Wyeast 1968 starter as soon as the wort comes down to 17C, and I'll dry hop as instructed.
 
Mine was brewed 18 days ago...FG=1.010. Cold crashing now, keg this weekend. Tasts great.


Looking at the whirlpool hopping schedule has brought up question for me.

1. At what temp is everyone adding the centennial and cascade? I was thinking 170 but would like to see what everyone else is doing.
 
So here's what went wrong... I forgot to shake the carboy and oxygenate my wort when i pitched, so my 1.064 OG only dropped to 1.024 after the longest lag time that i've ever had, and that was with a 1L stir plate starter. I brought the beer upstairs to warm it up (once up to 80+ accidentally) and tried it, and it tastes under attenuated and worty, obviously.

Yesterday, i repitched some rehydrated SA-05 dry yeast just to see what i could get away with, but it's not active yet. I'm not sure where this is going from here.

Ideas?
 
Looking at the whirlpool hopping schedule has brought up question for me.

1. At what temp is everyone adding the centennial and cascade? I was thinking 170 but would like to see what everyone else is doing.

Mine was at knockout, and then a 30 min whirlpool rest, so it was probably still above 190 or so by the end. then chilled and transfered.
 
Can anyone advise me on a base malt subsitution for this recipe (and by extension other american ales I end up using the malt in)? My supplier is out of any suitable pale 2-row base malts, my closest choices colour wise are Best Malz/Weyermann pilsner or Simpsons Golden Promise. But I fear that combined with the munich these will give me too much of a grainy maltiness/rich sweetness respectively.

I feel like the pilsner closest in colour is probably my best bet?
 
You could do a blend of the GP and Pils. Maybe like 60/40. Should be good.
 
I agree a mixture of PILs and G.P. will be wonderful. Get low "L" Munich and go easy on the Simpsons 35L crystal.
 
I'm gonna take a shot at this on Saturday. I'm going with the Bertus Brewing clone recipe here:
http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2013/02/ipa-clone-series-firestone-walker-union.html

Both recipes are pretty similar except for the bittering hops, and I'm not using either Apollo or Warrior. Going with Magnum. Don't expect that to change the end result.

My biggest question is that I've never done a two temperature mash. (Step mash?) I'm not sure procedurally exactly how to do it? I mash in a 10 gallon Igloo with false bottom. Do I drain all the water from the 60 minute mash into my kettle, heat it up, and then return it to the mash tun? What temp should I shoot for to end up at 155? Heat up to 165?

I have a couple more questions, but I'll wait until after this one is answered. Thanks!
 
I'm gonna take a shot at this on Saturday. I'm going with the Bertus Brewing clone recipe here:
http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2013/02/ipa-clone-series-firestone-walker-union.html

Both recipes are pretty similar except for the bittering hops, and I'm not using either Apollo or Warrior. Going with Magnum. Don't expect that to change the end result.

My biggest question is that I've never done a two temperature mash. (Step mash?) I'm not sure procedurally exactly how to do it? I mash in a 10 gallon Igloo with false bottom. Do I drain all the water from the 60 minute mash into my kettle, heat it up, and then return it to the mash tun? What temp should I shoot for to end up at 155? Heat up to 165?

I have a couple more questions, but I'll wait until after this one is answered. Thanks!

Just infuse boiling water to reach 165.
 
use a mash "thickness" of 1.25 then step it up with boiling water, a very slow pour while stirring strongly. ya don't want tannins! if you wanna reach 155 from 145 you'll only need about a gallon. prolly won't even use it all, so reserve what's left for sparging.
 
Thanks guys. That sounds too easy! I've bumped up my grain bill to 17.3 lbs. So 17.3 * 1.25 = about 21.5 quarts to begin the mash. Then after the one hour mash, add additional hot water (probably around one gallon) until I reach 155. Let it mash for another 15 minutes. Drain and sparge. Got it!
 
You could do a blend of the GP and Pils. Maybe like 60/40. Should be good.

I agree a mixture of PILs and G.P. will be wonderful. Get low "L" Munich and go easy on the Simpsons 35L crystal.

To re-visit this, I was supplied with the BM 'Heidelberg' instead of regular Pils - even paler in colour (about 1.3L IIRC).

Reckon this combination will still work well?
 
Just bottled this last night. Here's a list of mistakes I made when I brewed it.

1. I mashed too hot. I just left it for an hour at 150F.
2. I boiled too hard and got just 3.5 gallons in the fermenter @ 1.082 OG
3. I let a lot of cold-break and hops into the fermenter
4. I pitched too cold (~58F) and fermentation didn't really take off for a day and a half...after I warmed things up and re-agitated the carboy.
5. I dry hopped 4 days at a time instead of 3.


And after all that, the gravity sample (1.011 FG) I drank was delightful. Where else but in homebrewing can I f*ck up so much and still end up with something good? :mug:
 
I brewed this and it tasted great @ bottling—the problem is my syphon was leaking air and added a ton of oxygen @ transfer to bottling bucket was introduced. I opened a bottle at day three and tasted it again just to see how things where going and it died. Nothing like @ bottling. Been thinking a lot since then and I have a new plan for eliminating oxygen through the process I'm going to brew this again and film as a comparison and share my ideas if they work out.

NOTE: My wort over attenuated to 1.008. I pitched a ton of yeast however. 2 vials with 1 L starter on stir-plate for about 30 hours.
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I just brewed this yesterday, color looked really light, even after the first 60 mins of the boil. I ended up adding 4oz dark DME as a late addition to help compensate and it looked more inline with what I would expect. I also revised the hops based on the recipe they have listed on their site. I ran with a 002 starter. Will report back on how it turned out.

ABV: 7.0%
IBU: 60
COLOR: 8 SRM

FERMENTATION: 100% Stainless Steel Fermentation

MALTS: Premium Two-Row (Metcalf & Kendall varieties), Munich, Cara Pils, Simpson's Light Crystal

HOPS: 4 lbs/BBL: Bittering— Magnum; Late Kettle—Cascade, Centennial; Dry Hops—Amarillo, Cascade, Centennial, Citra, Chinook, Simcoe
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I just brewed this yesterday, color looked really light, even after the first 60 mins of the boil. I ended up adding 4oz dark DME as a late addition to help compensate and it looked more inline with what I would expect. I also revised the hops based on the recipe they have listed on their site. I ran with a 002 starter. Will report back on how it turned out.

ABV: 7.0%
IBU: 60
COLOR: 8 SRM

FERMENTATION: 100% Stainless Steel Fermentation

MALTS: Premium Two-Row (Metcalf & Kendall varieties), Munich, Cara Pils, Simpson's Light Crystal

HOPS: 4 lbs/BBL: Bittering— Magnum; Late Kettle—Cascade, Centennial; Dry Hops—Amarillo, Cascade, Centennial, Citra, Chinook, Simcoe
So how did it turn out?
 
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