Yes the PID, probe and SSR might cost $65, but what about control box, sockets, wiring, plugs, etc.
Most basic electric possible
- Thread starter Demus
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Yeah $100 I would agree is a fair expectation.
if you read any of the parts lists post on here and add up the major items, it only comes to about 65% of the total build cost
I just used extension cords and cable glands, then outlet sockets. For my STC1000 I just used the extension cord, cut in half installed with cable glands and wired up.
OP
OP
Demus
Well-Known Member
Out in my garage. The panel is out there but I'd rather not get into it. The outlet is GFCI, but just standard 110. The house was built in 2003 so everything is up to whatever the code was at that time. I think there's 220 available since the stove is electric, but am not positive. I only brew about once per month so investing in controllers and panels and dedicated circuits doesn't really make sense for me. I'm just exploring wether or not a simple drop in type system could be affordable and perform better than propane...
thargrav
Well-Known Member
Built in 2003 - The service should be 200 Amp, 240 Volt. And for sure, if you have an electric stove you have a 240V service.
BetterSense
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I'm also looking to go simple electric with a 5500w element. I was just at lowes getting sticker shock. A 6 foot dryer cord is 23 dollars by itself. Is there a better place to shop? I have a feeling LowesDepot is not the best place.
Seriously considering skipping GFCI to save an instant 70 dollars on a spa panel.
Seriously considering skipping GFCI to save an instant 70 dollars on a spa panel.
jeffmeh
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Without a GFCI, you are risking your life. That is not a place to cut corners.
thargrav
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You can't go "simple electric" with a 5500 watt element because you have no way to control the rate of boil. You will need a PWM or PID based controller to turn the heat down once you reach boil.
BetterSense
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The control aspect will be no problem for me because i have an arsenal of power electronics at my disposal. Its the actual cords and receptacles and gfcis that are whats keeping me from switching. It looks lik it would be a good 150 dollars if i just bought everything at Lowes.
thargrav
Well-Known Member
Lowes actually has good prices for single pieces. To get your cost down you would have to buy volume from a distributor and even then Lowes is still cheaper with some items.
For example I just bought 150' of SJOOW 10/3 cable, the exact cable you need to run to your heating element, for less than I would pay from any major distributor with freight. And even their $1.73 per foot price is not bad after adding the cost of shipping from anyone else. I use the cable in some of the products we manufacture.
Their plugs, outlets & dryer cords are comparable to on-line prices before freight unless you buy in bulk and you aren't going to buy in bulk for a home project.
BetterSense
Well-Known Member
So, not to hijack the thread too bad, but there appears to be multiple standards for 30-amp receptacles. There is a 3-wire plug for 'pre-1996' dryers (two legs and a neutral), and there is a 4-wire plug for 'post-1996' dryers (two legs, a neutral, and an earth), and then there is an 'RV plug' which is also 3 wires (I assume 2 legs and a neutral; no ground?). On top of this there are twist-lock plugs.
In my garage, I would like to install whatever receptacle that that welders use. Which one is that?
In my garage, I would like to install whatever receptacle that that welders use. Which one is that?
jeffmeh
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If you are running new wiring, then you will want to run 4 wires (H-H-N-G), which will give you the ability to run both 240v (H-H-G), and 120v (H-N-G) circuits in your brew panel. If the welder does not have a neutral you can still use a 4-wire plug, with nothing connected to neutral.
tektonjp
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Here's the best I have for now. Probably the best size for unregulated (no control) 220v would be about 3000-3500 watt, IMO.
thargrav
Well-Known Member
I use a 3500W element in my BK. I just plug it straight in. For 10 gallon batches it's perfect. Boils off a lot on 5 gallons, I just plan on more boil off with 5 gallons
T
I suspect that you are very lucky or you don't brew high gravity. I always have to turn my brew pot down once I reach full boil to prevent a boil over.
What size element thargrav? 5500? I use 2 @ 2000w and have never boiled over. Helps IMO to have a decent sized kettle if running "no control electric", my rule of thumb is double batch size minimum.
Ghetto Electric 4000w basic basement heatstick electric brewing, 2 elements at 2000w on separate 20 amp GFCI circuits. Works well for 3V cooler batch sparge brewing, or BIAB for 5, 10, and have even pulled off a few 15 gal. batches. Typical batch size is 7.75 gal (1/4B). One gallon manual pitcher pump on bottom shelf for HLT - MLT transfer of sparge water
I often consider running 240v circuit powering a ballsy 5500w element w/ controller, pump(s) and sophisticated temp control, but then would opt for kettle mount, and to pick which kettle is a quandry of mine as I like to vary my process and batch size. I am also a kettleholic and have collected 2 @ 80 qt, 2 @ 60 qt., and a 44 qt., plus a slew of coolers...old habits die hard I guess, and I like to keep the process basic and simple, with less gear to clean and less mess as I am brewing in a finished basement.
While as ghetto as heatsticks are, they provide the ultimate in flexibility, say the mash is a few degrees low, stir with a heatstick for a minute or two. One can easily move the heat where and when it's needed, heat strike water first in the MT, then heat sparge in the HLT, then on to the boil kettle. 4000w can heat the initial strike water in just about the time it takes to weigh and crush grain, and can easily heat sparge water during the mash.
As for the safety of heatsticks, I think homebrewing in itself is inherently dangerous, whether one uses electric or propane, and a grounded heatstick on a GFCI circuit is no more, or even less dangerous than many power tools such as a circular saw, grinder, chainsaw, lawnmower, woodsplitter, nailgun etc., etc. Be careful folks!
80 qt., 60 qt., and 44 qt. kettles
48 qt. coolers and 60 qt. kettle
I often consider running 240v circuit powering a ballsy 5500w element w/ controller, pump(s) and sophisticated temp control, but then would opt for kettle mount, and to pick which kettle is a quandry of mine as I like to vary my process and batch size. I am also a kettleholic and have collected 2 @ 80 qt, 2 @ 60 qt., and a 44 qt., plus a slew of coolers...old habits die hard I guess
, and I like to keep the process basic and simple, with less gear to clean and less mess as I am brewing in a finished basement. While as ghetto as heatsticks are, they provide the ultimate in flexibility, say the mash is a few degrees low, stir with a heatstick for a minute or two. One can easily move the heat where and when it's needed, heat strike water first in the MT, then heat sparge in the HLT, then on to the boil kettle. 4000w can heat the initial strike water in just about the time it takes to weigh and crush grain, and can easily heat sparge water during the mash.
As for the safety of heatsticks, I think homebrewing in itself is inherently dangerous, whether one uses electric or propane, and a grounded heatstick on a GFCI circuit is no more, or even less dangerous than many power tools such as a circular saw, grinder, chainsaw, lawnmower, woodsplitter, nailgun etc., etc. Be careful folks!
80 qt., 60 qt., and 44 qt. kettles
48 qt. coolers and 60 qt. kettle
thargrav
Well-Known Member
I understand. If I had a large enough pot boil over probably would not be an issue, except maybe for one of my very high gravity brews. My record so far is 21% alcohol with yeast re-pitching and one of my Black MAXX stir plates.
I was using a 4500 watt element but up-sized to a 5500 element because I reach boil a lot faster. Also, I batch sparge and all of my collected runnings can sometimes get to within 6" of the lip of my brew-pot.
Holy sh**, props to you! I am afraid I would be Otis of Mayberry in no time if I brewed like that!
That must be like boiling down maple syrup at the end of the boil
I agree, with those type goals, a little more sophistication is likely warranted. cheers!
OP
OP
Demus
Well-Known Member
Ghetto Electric 4000w basic basement heatstick electric brewing, 2 elements at 2000w on separate 20 amp GFCI circuits. Works well for 3V cooler batch sparge brewing, or BIAB for 5, 10, and have even pulled off a few 15 gal. batches. Typical batch size is 7.75 gal (1/4B). One gallon manual pitcher pump on bottom shelf for HLT - MLT transfer of sparge water
I often consider running 240v circuit powering a ballsy 5500w element w/ controller, pump(s) and sophisticated temp control, but then would opt for kettle mount, and to pick which kettle is a quandry of mine as I like to vary my process and batch size. I am also a kettleholic and have collected 2 @ 80 qt, 2 @ 60 qt., and a 44 qt., plus a slew of coolers...old habits die hard I guess
While as ghetto as heatsticks are, they provide the ultimate in flexibility, say the mash is a few degrees low, stir with a heatstick for a minute or two. One can easily move the heat where and when it's needed, heat strike water first in the MT, then heat sparge in the HLT, then on to the boil kettle. 4000w can heat the initial strike water in just about the time it takes to weigh and crush grain, and can easily heat sparge water during the mash.
As for the safety of heatsticks, I think homebrewing in itself is inherently dangerous, whether one uses electric or propane, and a grounded heatstick on a GFCI circuit is no more, or even less dangerous than many power tools such as a circular saw, grinder, chainsaw, lawnmower, woodsplitter, nailgun etc., etc. Be careful folks!
80 qt., 60 qt., and 44 qt. kettles
48 qt. coolers and 60 qt. kettle
So those babies are standard 110v? Where do you get them? It takes both to get 7 gallons rolling? Would 1 keep it going once it's boiling?
Read this thread below, if you have any questions post back...haha!
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/heatstick-awesome-142803/
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/heatstick-awesome-142803/
thargrav
Well-Known Member
That's not even close - try brewing something with a final alcohol level of 18%
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