flatulentfox
Well-Known Member
So, I have been extract brewing for about six months, maybe 12 five gallon batches to date. Most have been pretty decent.
Any way, I have been wanting to get into all grain, and am trying to get a design nailed down so i can start collecting parts over the next few months and get something put together.
My first thought is this:
Single vessel, e-keggle recirculating BIAB. PID control to maintain mash temps. Either recirculate and drain to a bucket (for clarity, to use grain bed as filter) or if i can get clear enough beer, just lift out "bag" as in a standard BIAB system. As for the "bag", I am thinking a SS mesh bucket made (or modified form an off the shelf product if I can find something similar) to fit just inside the Keggle. Also, I plan on cutting off the entire top skirt of the keg, not just a smaller hole in the top of it. This will allow better access into the keg, and allow me to build a mesh bucket that will fill up the entire interior of the keg without much dead space, for a more efficient mash.
I am also considering a two vessel system similar to jkarps counter top brutus 20 system. I would use two kegs, and circulate during mash as needed to maintain temps.
A few specific questions.
In either system, I will be circulating constantly during the mash. Should the temp probe for the PID be in the output of the ball valve of the keggle, or would it be better off in the middle of the keg wall, like the placement of analog thermometer in most keggle builds? If i were to place it in the output of the keg I would not have a probe sticking into the interior space of the keggle, which might interfere with BIAB hardware.
Also, I'm trying to decide where to put the output valve. I am considering a bottom drain valve. I understand I can use a 2" tri-clamp to connect directly to the tap present on a sankey keg. I would cut off the bottom of the keg, connect a valve to the bottom of the keg. The question then is a hop screen. I would like to use a pump to whirlpool diring chilling (i plan on continuing to use my IC). If I cannot effectivley filter out hops and trub, i fear clogging the pump.
A bottom drain would be simple and would not require a diptube, but seems like it might create more problems than it solves. Am I better off with a standard valve setup? I would use a 1.5" triclamp fitting on the keg, and use a three piece TC ball valve, and weld the dip tube straight to the flange on the ball valve, this way it would fit through the 1.5" opening and be easily removable for cleaning. I want every piece of hardware that attaches directly to the keggle to be easily removed for cleaning.
Ideas? Comments? Suggestions?
Thanks!
Any way, I have been wanting to get into all grain, and am trying to get a design nailed down so i can start collecting parts over the next few months and get something put together.
My first thought is this:
Single vessel, e-keggle recirculating BIAB. PID control to maintain mash temps. Either recirculate and drain to a bucket (for clarity, to use grain bed as filter) or if i can get clear enough beer, just lift out "bag" as in a standard BIAB system. As for the "bag", I am thinking a SS mesh bucket made (or modified form an off the shelf product if I can find something similar) to fit just inside the Keggle. Also, I plan on cutting off the entire top skirt of the keg, not just a smaller hole in the top of it. This will allow better access into the keg, and allow me to build a mesh bucket that will fill up the entire interior of the keg without much dead space, for a more efficient mash.
I am also considering a two vessel system similar to jkarps counter top brutus 20 system. I would use two kegs, and circulate during mash as needed to maintain temps.
A few specific questions.
In either system, I will be circulating constantly during the mash. Should the temp probe for the PID be in the output of the ball valve of the keggle, or would it be better off in the middle of the keg wall, like the placement of analog thermometer in most keggle builds? If i were to place it in the output of the keg I would not have a probe sticking into the interior space of the keggle, which might interfere with BIAB hardware.
Also, I'm trying to decide where to put the output valve. I am considering a bottom drain valve. I understand I can use a 2" tri-clamp to connect directly to the tap present on a sankey keg. I would cut off the bottom of the keg, connect a valve to the bottom of the keg. The question then is a hop screen. I would like to use a pump to whirlpool diring chilling (i plan on continuing to use my IC). If I cannot effectivley filter out hops and trub, i fear clogging the pump.
A bottom drain would be simple and would not require a diptube, but seems like it might create more problems than it solves. Am I better off with a standard valve setup? I would use a 1.5" triclamp fitting on the keg, and use a three piece TC ball valve, and weld the dip tube straight to the flange on the ball valve, this way it would fit through the 1.5" opening and be easily removable for cleaning. I want every piece of hardware that attaches directly to the keggle to be easily removed for cleaning.
Ideas? Comments? Suggestions?
Thanks!