Cutting a Keg - Question

I've read of folks having problems with kegs deforming when they cut the keg below the top skirt.

I'm wondering about cutting the keg as normal with a 12-13" opening, then cutting the skirt off just above where it's welded to the keg and then grinding it flush. Basically leaving the remaining domed portion of the top to add volume and help maintain the shape.

I'm looking to eliminate that crevice where the skirt meets the keg. It seems to always catch grain, makes it impossible to pour anything out of a keggle with out making a mess and just adds to the mess when there is a boil over.

I'm pretty much clean in place, so I don't do much lifting and don't have a great deal of need for the handles.

Has anyone cut just the skirt off the top of a keggle? Thoughts?


Thanks,
Ed

i was thinking the same thing where in oh are you ed

chady74 said:

i was thinking the same thing where in oh are you ed

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I'm near Lebanon.

BobbyM filled that crevice with caulk, seems like a good idea to try before cutting... but i don't see any reason you couldn't remove it though.

im just down in middletown if you need something welded let me know we will have to get together for a brewday some time

Just a thought, on that lip are the top handles for carrying. So how do you intend to move it around without this?

Here is a picture of keg I had swagman do its with the top ring removed and the dome cut back to the sides.




Works great hope this helps


Woodie

luke2080 said:

Just a thought, on that lip are the top handles for carrying. So how do you intend to move it around without this?

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Well, actually I'm thinking of dump drains on the bottom and cutting the bottom instead of the top so the handles will still be there but on the bottom of the keggle. The pics below are of a keg that I welded a ferule in the bottom. Now I'm thinking of cutting the bottom of the keg (as several others have done), using the existing sanke "port", and flipping the kegs so that valve would be on the opposite end.

Removing the Ring & Skirt will also reduce the height of the keggles by a couple inches.

Also, I "Clean In Place" so I really don't carry the kegs around much

Ed

chady74 said:

im just down in middletown if you need something welded let me know we will have to get together for a brewday some time

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Thanks for the offer!! I bought a used Syncrowave 250 and I'm practicing and learning all I can about tigging. Most of my brew days are Saturday morning spur of the moment events anymore, but I usually try to but together a "Group Brew" a couple times a year and have a bit more advance notice. I'll let you know next time I have something planned.

Ed

WOODIE40 said:

Here is a picture of keg I had swagman do its with the top ring removed and the dome cut back to the sides.

...

Works great hope this helps


Woodie

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Swagman does great work!!!

That looks like a great idea. If I wasn't thinking of flipping the keg this would be the way I'd go.

Is there any flex or deformation at the top of your keg? Is it still pretty sturdy?

Ed

sounds good to me just let me know

Ohio-Ed said:

Swagman does great work!!!

That looks like a great idea. If I wasn't thinking of flipping the keg this would be the way I'd go.

Is there any flex or deformation at the top of your keg? Is it still pretty sturdy?

Ed

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No Flex what so ever I have the mash tun and also the boil pot cut the same way

Agree on good work

Woodie