List of PJ Electrical Diagrams

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empty glass.jpg
 
You could leave out the Element Firing LED indicator lamp, but then you could miss out on an SSR failure (they tend to fail in the on state.) You could also leave out the fuses if you use 10AWG wire to deliver power to the PID. By the way, this is one of my designs.

Here's the one pump version of the drawing, which also uses a newer, better controller.

View attachment 385246

Note that adding a 120V pump requires a four wire power feed vs. the three wire feed used by the 240V only (no pump) design.

Brew on :mug:

I just started looking for a simple system to control a DIY BIAB 240V system with one pump, and I think this diagram is right for that application.

I have three questions:
1) I plan on plugging this into a 3-wire dryer outlet through a spa panel to give a 4 wire system with GFCI - would that work for input to this?
2) Can the spa panel be portable - i.e. not affixed to my house?
3) I need to get about 20 feet away from the outlet to get outside.
Assuming I use the proper gauge wire, what is the better plan - keep the spa panel closer to the outlet and then run an extension cord or keep the spa panel closer to the control box and run an extension cord from the outlet to the spa panel?
 
I just started looking for a simple system to control a DIY BIAB 240V system with one pump, and I think this diagram is right for that application.

I have three questions:
1) I plan on plugging this into a 3-wire dryer outlet through a spa panel to give a 4 wire system with GFCI - would that work for input to this?
Yes
2) Can the spa panel be portable - i.e. not affixed to my house?
Yes, it should be "portable." The 3 wire to 4 wire circuit is not code compliant, so it would be a code violation to have it as part of the fixed structure wiring.
3) I need to get about 20 feet away from the outlet to get outside.
Assuming I use the proper gauge wire, what is the better plan - keep the spa panel closer to the outlet and then run an extension cord or keep the spa panel closer to the control box and run an extension cord from the outlet to the spa panel?
I think it would be more convenient to have the spa panel inside, near the outlet.

Brew on :mug:
 
Just sent that guy the one I had that he didn't.


Feel free to send me them if i am missing some. I compiled them a while ago with all the ones i could find :).

Happy brewing everyone.

**edit** just added that one into the drive as well! Thanks for sending it.
 
Do you need a login to access these or just sign up?:tank:
you should be taken straight to a download page... but currently are not. either the files were taken down, or something else is happening like we've reached the download limit.

EDIT: that post is from march. i suspect these free up/download sites have a time limit... use the recently-mentioned Google Drive site instead.
 
Good catch. I didnt even notice that.

you should be taken straight to a download page... but currently are not. either the files were taken down, or something else is happening like we've reached the download limit.

EDIT: that post is from march. i suspect these free up/download sites have a time limit... use the recently-mentioned Google Drive site instead.
 
Hi,
Can't say thanks enough for all the information you guys have contributed via this forum. Wow!
I am assembling the controller as shown in the attachment (thanks to Bobby form BH for the diagram). I have it built as shown (I think), but would like to add a "Master" switch and indicator light for that switch that would assure that the entire controller was dead when the light is off. Please note that I only have been "painting by the numbers" given the attached diagram and am very electronically challenged. I'm sure what I'm after could be found elsewhere on this thread but I don't believe I'm smart enough to be sure... Any idiot-proof help available would be greatly appreciated.
I'm in the final process of building a 15 Gal recirculating BIAB system as a retirement present to myself. I enjoyed brewing extract kits some 25 years ago and decided to see what might have changed since then... couldn't believe what was out there when I started researching home brew systems online!!! Dying to get a first batch in the works.
 

Attachments

  • EZboilcontroller.pdf
    122.2 KB · Views: 240
Hi,
Can't say thanks enough for all the information you guys have contributed via this forum. Wow!
I am assembling the controller as shown in the attachment (thanks to Bobby form BH for the diagram). I have it built as shown (I think), but would like to add a "Master" switch and indicator light for that switch that would assure that the entire controller was dead when the light is off. Please note that I only have been "painting by the numbers" given the attached diagram and am very electronically challenged. I'm sure what I'm after could be found elsewhere on this thread but I don't believe I'm smart enough to be sure... Any idiot-proof help available would be greatly appreciated.
I'm in the final process of building a 15 Gal recirculating BIAB system as a retirement present to myself. I enjoyed brewing extract kits some 25 years ago and decided to see what might have changed since then... couldn't believe what was out there when I started researching home brew systems online!!! Dying to get a first batch in the works.
Here's something quite similar to what you are asking for. I think the only things extra are the volt/amp meter, which is optional, and the DSPR300 vs. the DSPR120. The DSPR120 does not have the external alarm outputs, so just leave out the alarm wiring and the connections to terminals 1, 2, 13 & 14 of the DSPR.

DSPR300 1 - Element 1 - Pump Volt-Amp Meter 240V primary.PNG


Brew on :mug:
 
How could the Sw1/Sw16 switches be changed to Sw4 like the alarm switch?
Thanks
Ivan
They are just a 1 for 1 swap out. The SW4 doesn't have a light to wire, so leave out the wiring for the light. You'll save a few bucks, but no longer have the lamp to give you an easy to see indication of the switch position.

Brew on :mug:
 
They are just a 1 for 1 swap out. The SW4 doesn't have a light to wire, so leave out the wiring for the light. You'll save a few bucks, but no longer have the lamp to give you an easy to see indication of the switch position.

Brew on :mug:
Thanks for the help!
 
So if I were to leave the led switches I'm assuming that the 2 pump switches are 120v and the element switch is 240? If I were to swap out the alarm switch for an led switch how would the led portion be wired? And that would be 240v also?
 
Yes, pump switches use 120V LED blocks, and the element switch uses a 240V LED block. I don't think I'd bother with a lighted switch for the alarm, but if you did it would need to be 240V. An alarm switch LED would be wired just like the element switch LED.

Brew on :mug:
 
I stumbled across this wiring diagram that you made. I really like the idea of the safe start. I would be the one to forget to turn something off. My question is why is the a neutral wire running to the coils, element switch, and alarm buzzer? Are the switch and buzzer 120v? Or is this part of the safety feature?
Thanks
Ivan
 

Attachments

  • DSPR300 2-Pump 240V dual contactors safe-start rev-2.jpg
    DSPR300 2-Pump 240V dual contactors safe-start rev-2.jpg
    140.4 KB · Views: 235
First, this is an older version of my safe start circuit, and it has a quirk or two that are eliminated in my revised safe start circuit. Please do not use this diagram. I'll look for one of the updated safe start diagrams for you.

Most of the Auber components are available in 120V and 240V versions. If you look at the component PN's you will see that part numbers are different between the different voltage versions. With contactors, it is the coil that is either 120V or 240V. The specific diagram you are working with started as a 240V only panel. Then someone asked after they had it mostly wired: "How do I add a pump if I switch from three wire feed to four wire feed. So, they had the 240V components on hand. I usually design with 120V coils, lamps (except for the element firing lamp), alarms, etc.

So, would you rather have 240V everywhere (except pumps), or 120V everywhere (except elements)? What are all the features that you want in your control panel. I probably have one closer than the design you have been looking at.

Brew on :mug;
 
What I'm ultimately trying to do is build a panel for my breweasy system. I'm looking for something with 2 pids, 1 element, element light, and switch. Alarm with switch. And 2 pumps with switches. I would assume that 240v switches would be easier to wire? Do you have any diagrams in the ballpark?
Thanks again for your time and patience!
Ivan
 
Here's something quite similar to what you are asking for. I think the only things extra are the volt/amp meter, which is optional, and the DSPR300 vs. the DSPR120. The DSPR120 does not have the external alarm outputs, so just leave out the alarm wiring and the connections to terminals 1, 2, 13 & 14 of the DSPR.

View attachment 557173

Brew on :mug:
Doug what software are you using to design these schematics? I have for a few I like but need to make a few small tweaks.
 
Doug what software are you using to design these schematics? I have for a few I like but need to make a few small tweaks.
I use a program called QuickCAD 8. Unfortunately, it hasn't been available for years. I can output .dxf files if you have another CAD program you want to use, but some things are lost in translation.

Brew on :mug:
 
I use a program called QuickCAD 8. Unfortunately, it hasn't been available for years. I can output .dxf files if you have another CAD program you want to use, but some things are lost in translation.

Brew on :mug:
Can you send me s .cad file to try to open with Autosketch 9?
 
I use a program called QuickCAD 8. Unfortunately, it hasn't been available for years. I can output .dxf files if you have another CAD program you want to use, but some things are lost in translation.

Brew on :mug:

Doug here is how the file imported into AutoSketch, the symbols will need to be redone but looks good.
Autosketch Screen.JPG
 
Doug here is how the file imported into AutoSketch, the symbols will need to be redone but looks good.
View attachment 624981
Looks pretty good. Try turning the grid off, and setting the background color to light gray, to see if that will bring back the white neutral lines (which are showing in black now.) Also, there are some orphan symbols, which may have been sitting in the undo buffer.

Brew on :mug:
 
Just was looking through my drive and i believe i had most of PJ's wiring guides.

Brewing DIY - Google Drive

Just wanted to make sure everyone can see and work in the projects they need.
I was looking through some old threads and came across this again. PJ was an awesome resource. I'm so glad his drawings are preserved.
 
Hello Everyone, i know there has been a lot of requests for the electrical diagrams again. Here is an updated link to where i have them hosted.

https://drive.google.com/drive/fold...ourcekey=0-mRTY5763kBBII4waoblz5g&usp=sharing
Please feel free to download these or ping me if you want them hosted elsewhere.
awesome, thanks for the update!

another project would be to create a table of contents document that lists the characteristics of each drawing: # pumps, # elements, BIAB yes/no, controller (single PID< 2 PID, BCS, etc.)... right now someone would need to download every image and sort through them until they find the right one. a spreadsheet with all the attributes listed would allow folks to get the exact schematic(s) they need. someday, someday...
 
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