Suggestions for controller

P-J said:

Click the link and then choose the amp size you want.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/fuses/fuses/electrical/ecatalog/N-8d0Z1z0nzys?contextPath=Grainger&xi=xi


Edit: Adding pn for switches 2-4
http://www.automationdirect.com part number GCX3192-120

http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Search/Search?searchquery=GCX3192-120

Click to expand...

I feel like I'm blind, I can find the 1a fast blow fuses but I cant find the regular 1a or the 10a fast blow fuses

Thundercougarfalconbird said:

I feel like I'm blind, I can find the 1a fast blow fuses but I cant find the regular 1a or the 10a fast blow fuses

Click to expand...

The 1A fast blow is the regular 1A fuse (as opposed to a slow blow fuse).

The 10A is in the list. Fuse, AGC, 10A

Got it Thanks for putting everything on an nice elementary level for me

So I see JS guitar reccomends westmarine bus bars. But P-J's diagram calls for 4 terminal strips. What/where is the correct part for the job?

Thundercougarfalconbird said:

So I see JS guitar reccomends westmarine bus bars. But P-J's diagram calls for 4 terminal strips. What/where is the correct part for the job?

Click to expand...

I show images of terminal strips so that the person building the unit will use that idea instead of splicing wires and using wire nuts. (Bad idea.)

It is the builders call on the choice of the strips available and rated for the particular task at hand.

jsguitar said:

I got it dialed in it seems. I guess I just didn't know what I was doing before. I have the Pb set to 3 and it seems dead on now. I set t to 2 if I remember right and hyst to 2. I initially set P to 1 based on some reading here but I ran an autotune and it set it to 80.

I tested both outlets with my hlt since I need to replace the element in th BK and replace both sight glasses. Both element outlets worked perfectly

It held 150 in automatic mode and boiled in manual mode without a hitch. I took some pics. My location's boiling temperature is around 210.4 degrees, so at the moment the sensor is reading between 210-211 (switching between them). I may fine tune the Pb setting a bit more later if needed.

It boils just like I expected. I think it took around ten minutes to boil from 150 degrees.

Pic 1: plugged in to the HLT outlet
Pic 2: holding at 150
Pic 3: boiling in manual mode
Pic 4: BK outlet
Pic 5: Boiling! No pulsing. Just a nice steady boil.

Now I just need to prepare my brewing area and I'm in business!

Click to expand...

Your panel looks great, but I can't seem to find a picture of the inside of your build. Would you mind posting some pictures of the inside finished wiring and so forth? Also, did P-J or yourself ever build one with the push button switches detailed in the original wiring diagram? Lastly, how could I adapt this build to control my RIMS tube for my single tier propane rig? The only electric component in my brewery at this point will be the RIMS tube as I don't have the desire to go electric, yet. Thanks for the help in advance.

craigsphillips said:

Your panel looks great, but I can't seem to find a picture of the inside of your build. Would you mind posting some pictures of the inside finished wiring and so forth? Also, did P-J or yourself ever build one with the push button switches detailed in the original wiring diagram? Lastly, how could I adapt this build to control my RIMS tube for my single tier propane rig? The only electric component in my brewery at this point will be the RIMS tube as I don't have the desire to go electric, yet. Thanks for the help in advance.

Click to expand...

Thanks for your comments. Here's some pics of the inside: (it's built directly from the 1st diagram at the top of p.3)

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/suggestions-controller-249400/index4.html

The pushbutton switches are an easy change to make and Adamcanfly is doing just that (as he showed a page back or so in this thread). There are also some more recent similar builds that are using those switches.

To your last question, I'll defer to P-J on that one. There's a bit more info needed to determine what your needs are for that.

craigsphillips said:

...
Lastly, how could I adapt this build to control my RIMS tube for my single tier propane rig? The only electric component in my brewery at this point will be the RIMS tube as I don't have the desire to go electric, yet. ...

Click to expand...

It can be done - but - you are entering a whole new ball game with that plan. Controlling the output temp of a RIMS setup is really dependent on precisely measuring the output temp - which in turn is dependent on the flow rate and the placement of the temp probe and the probe type. Any changes in any factor will dramatically effect the results. Good luck with that. And if you go that route, please let us know what you did.

IMHO, a better and more easily controllable setup would be to use a HLT with a heat exchanger to accomplish the task. Temp control is easy.

So I finally finished the spa panel and went to plug in my control box for the first time and am having some problems. Right when I plug in the box it pops the GFCI.

I used the attached diagram but made a few changes. I used this one because I wanted two LED's but I didnt need the timer. It's wired exactly like this minus the timer and it's connections.

Let me know if this is the proper way to do this or if something else should be changed when removing that item from the diagram.

If that's correct let me know if you have any other specific suggestions to check. I haven't had time to check anything yet but just wanted to get feedback on this first. Tonight I should have time to open it up and double check all the connections.

zacc said:

So I finally finished the spa panel and went to plug in my control box for the first time and am having some problems. Right when I plug in the box it pops the GFCI.

I used the attached diagram but made a few changes. I used this one because I wanted two LED's but I didnt need the timer. It's wired exactly like this minus the timer and it's connections.

Let me know if this is the proper way to do this or if something else should be changed when removing that item from the diagram.

If that's correct let me know if you have any other specific suggestions to check. I haven't had time to check anything yet but just wanted to get feedback on this first. Tonight I should have time to open it up and double check all the connections.

Click to expand...

First thing to try is to pull the fuse going to the E-Stop switch and try again. That will tell you if it is wired correctly. If the breaker still trips you need to look at how you have wired the neutral output of the GFCI breaker. The neutral must be from the breaker its self for the output to your controller.

Please let me know. I'll try to help you in any way that I can.

P-J

Thanks P-J. I will give this a shot when I get home tonight and let you know if I'm still having any issues.

So I took the e-stop fuse out and it worked without popping the GFCI.

I unplugged the box and opened it open and took a few readings with my multimeter. I checked the e-stop and noticed I was getting continuity when the button was unpressed but not when it was pressed.

Turns out I ordered GX3135 instead of GX3139. I did this because I liked the red button instead of the yellow but the contact block that came with mine is Normally Closed(N.C.). I guess I will be ordering one of the green contact blocks which will fix this problem.

I was really hoping to try this out on Sunday but now I have to wait for the new contact block. Would it be safe to clamp down the button or something and use it like that or should I just wait for the new part?

Just leave the E-Stop fuse out until you get the replacement N/O contact block. If something goes wrong, pull the plug in the meantime.

Sounds good. Thanks for the help P-J!

You are welcome. It is my pleasure.

(BTW: Now you discovered why I chose the GCX3139 push button. It's the only one I found that came with a N/O contact.)

Another thought: If you want a modified diagram showing the plan without the timer, I can do that for you.

Wishing you the best.

P-J

Well I got the element and temp probe installed in one of my kegs last night so I decided to fire it up! Within a few minutes I had configured the important settings on the PID and had it running in both manual and auto mode.

After about 15 minutes in auto I decided to turn it off and move the kettle plug from the HLT outlet to the BK outlet to test it since my second kettle wasn't done yet. After doing this I plugged the box back in and flipped on the PID which came right on. When I flipped the switch to the BK element the GFCI popped after a few seconds. I reset everything and tried again but same result. At this point I figured there was something wrong with the wiring of the BK circuit so I turned it all off and moved the element plug back to the HLT outlet. After this the PID came on but when I flipped the switch to the HLT element it also popped the GFCI. I turned everything off and tried a few more times with the same outcome.

Since the system was running fine on the HLT setting and then stopped after I switched to the BK the only thing I can think of was something came loose inside while I was shuffling the box around changing the connections.

By this point it was pretty late so I decided to call it a night. It was awesome to see it finally working but a little frustrating to have the issues at the end.

Tonight I will open the box again and check all the connections again. Let me know if you have any specific suggestions of things I should check.

I have a question for P-J going all the way back to the diagram on page one.

I showed the diagram to my father-in-law, an electrician, and he was concerned that you're using a DPDT switch that is only rated for 15A on a 240 circuit. Shouldn't we all be using a switch rated at 30A for a 5500 watt element?

I just finished up my first batch using the new electric setup. I had a few problems but overall it went very well.

The biggest issue I had was the same issue I posted about a few days ago. Basically when using my HLT it is blowing the GFCI. Once I got the BK complete I was able to do some further testing and the problem seems isolated to the HLT. When using the BK I have not had the problem once. I have used the BK in both outlets on the control box without the issue. I have also switched the power cable from the HLT to the control box with the one on the BK and that didn't fix it so I know it's not a problem with the cable/plug.

The only thing I haven't switched is the element. The only thing that I can think is happening is a very small amount of water is getting past the seal on the kettle and causing the GFCI to pop. I had a little trouble getting the element into the HLT because it was hitting my pickup tube so I did have to make the hole slightly larger than the one one the BK. It is barely larger though, just a couple more passes with a grinding attachment on the dremel tool. I have not seen any visible sign of water leaking but cannot think of what else may be causing this.

My plan to fix this is to get some high temp food grade silicone and put it around the threads on the element. If this doesn't fix it the only other thing I can think to do is replace the element but that seems unlikely to be causing this issue.

Let me know if anyone has any other suggestions that might fix this.

So despite that problem I was still able to have a successful brew day. I had to juggle some water back and forth from the BK to the HLT during the sparge but it worked out.

Here are a few pictures of my finished steam hood. I still need to mount the pump and CFC and make a few minor tweaks but at least its functional!

zacc said:

...
Basically when using my HLT it is blowing the GFCI. Once I got the BK complete I was able to do some further testing and the problem seems isolated to the HLT.
...
The only thing I haven't switched is the element. The only thing that I can think is happening is a very small amount of water is getting past the seal on the kettle and causing the GFCI to pop. I had a little trouble getting the element into the HLT because it was hitting my pickup tube so I did have to make the hole slightly larger than the one one the BK. It is barely larger though, just a couple more passes with a grinding attachment on the dremel tool. I have not seen any visible sign of water leaking but cannot think of what else may be causing this.

My plan to fix this is to get some high temp food grade silicone and put it around the threads on the element. If this doesn't fix it the only other thing I can think to do is replace the element but that seems unlikely to be causing this issue.
...

Click to expand...

Great diagnostics. Well done.
IMHO - Yea you have a leak past the element seal. (First brush with the issue) It seams that the O-ring on the outside of the kettle is not giving you a total seal. Please try this: Take the element out so that all of the threads are exposed. Then wrap several layers of Teflon plumbers tape around the threads. Re assemble and try again. Last resort? Replace the element to eliminate an element defect.

geeze - I'm puzzled as well.

jsguitar said:

Thanks for your comments. Here's some pics of the inside: (it's built directly from the 1st diagram at the top of p.3)

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/suggestions-controller-249400/index4.html

The pushbutton switches are an easy change to make and Adamcanfly is doing just that (as he showed a page back or so in this thread). There are also some more recent similar builds that are using those switches.

To your last question, I'll defer to P-J on that one. There's a bit more info needed to determine what your needs are for that.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. It's probably me overlooking them, but the link you posted here just links back to the original thread, which I can't find any pics of the inside of your controller. Any chance you have some or can take some? Thanks.

P-J said:

It can be done - but - you are entering a whole new ball game with that plan. Controlling the output temp of a RIMS setup is really dependent on precisely measuring the output temp - which in turn is dependent on the flow rate and the placement of the temp probe and the probe type. Any changes in any factor will dramatically effect the results. Good luck with that. And if you go that route, please let us know what you did.

IMHO, a better and more easily controllable setup would be to use a HLT with a heat exchanger to accomplish the task. Temp control is easy.

Click to expand...

Thanks, P-J. I didn't realize I was entering new territory incorpating a RIMS tube. Not saying I'll never go HERMS, and considering what I have already built and bought, I think I'm going to stay the course with my RIMS tube and not switch to HERMS, but I could still use some help from the "experts". I've seen some threads where you've helped some others incorporate RIMS in their controller setups, so I was hoping you could help me simplify things. I've already built the RIMS tube and my direct fire keggles. The controller is the only missing link. My controller should take a much simpler design than an all electric rig. The only electric component I need to control is the RIMS tube, which has the following components. I'd like to run it at full flow to maximize the amount of whirlpool I can create in my mash tun, so restricting flow was not something I planned on doing. The temp probe is located in the outlet end of the RIMS tube.

Liquid tight 4" type K thermocouple 1/2" NPT - Auber TC-K100M1/2NPT
120V 1500W Low Density Heating Element - Grainger 2E295
Pump - March 809HS

Here's the other stuff I planned on buying thus far.

PID - Auber SYL-2352
40A SSR - Auber RS1A40D40
Heat sink - Auber HS40
Enclosure - Auber Pbox16
Switches - Pilot Automotive PL-SW26 (Kind of TopGun'ish)

I'm certainly open for suggestion and looking for help planning and wiring things up. You probably thought I'd never ask, but would you be willing to help me with one of those famous diagrams of yours? Thanks, man.

If you scroll down the page that I linked it shows the inside. The link works for me, but if it doesn't work for you again then just go to page 4 and scroll down the whole page a little and read the descriptions. I'm not sure you'll gain much from looking at the inside though because you really can't see very much clearly due to all of the wiring being tightly packed in there and it also looks like you're building something entirely different.

Hope this helps.

craigsphillips said:

...
I've already built the RIMS tube and my direct fire keggles. The controller is the only missing link.
...
I'm certainly open for suggestion and looking for help planning and wiring things up. You probably thought I'd never ask, but would you be willing to help me with one of those famous diagrams of yours?

Click to expand...

As always - Click on the image for a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17"):

P-J said:

As always - Click on the image for a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17"):

Click to expand...

Your diagram really helps a lot, P-J. Where would we be without you?

A couple questions...

1. My RIMS element is a 120V 1500W Low Density Heating Element - Grainger 2E295. That being the case, could I stick with a 15A switch since the load should only be 12.5A for a 1500W element in lieu of 16.7A for a 2000W element?

2. Switch 1 and 2 are called out DPST and Switch 3 is shown to be SPST. Is it possible to wire it in a way to use all SPST switches? I had hoped to use these switches on the panel which are Pilot Automotive PL-SW26R, which can be seen at http://www.pilotautomotive.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=27308&PCID=1068. I'm pretty sure these are not DPST switches or maybe I need to find a new manufacturer that offers the cool top gun switches with more configuration choices.

3. My original plan was to use a liquid tight 4" type K thermocouple 1/2" NPT - Auber TC-K100M1/2NPT. Your diagram shows an RTD. What changes in the wiring if I use the thermocouple? Would I be better off using an RTD?

Thanks, again. I'm excited to get everything ordered this weekend.

zacc, your setup is looking great. Love the exhaust hood. Did you figure out the electrical problems yet?

I haven't had much time lately but I got my pumps installed in my SS table and found some lint trap quick connects to make my dryer exhaust swap easier which works great so I'm not going to do a dedicated exhaust after all. Hopefully I'll update with pics when I'm not feeling lazy.

Adam, any progress?

jsguitar said:

zacc, your setup is looking great. Love the exhaust hood. Did you figure out the electrical problems yet?

Click to expand...

Well I think the problem is possibly a small leak in the seal of the element to the kettle. I wrapped the thread with Teflon tape and also used some high temp food grade silicon. I haven't had a chance to test it yet but should have time tomorrow to give it a shot. If it still doesn't work properly the only thing it could be is a faulty element.

This past weekend I scored a free garage door opener from someone on craigslist. I guess there was something wrong with the control board but I just needed the motor. I mounted my grainmill on an old gorilla self and am using the motor from the garage door opener with a few pulleys to power it. I just tested about a pound of grain through it so far but it seems to work great. I'm not exactly sure what RPM's I'm getting but I estimate its around 150, it seems perfect for the mill. This gives a much nicer crush than I get with a drill running at high RPM's, plus I can just fill it up and turn on while doing something else instead of sitting there holding a drill.

I'm going to be heading out of town for a few weeks but once I get back I plan on doing some serious brewing. I'm way behind on my brewing due to all the time spent on this new setup. My wife has been bugging me to brew my pumpkin ale so that will probably be my next batch.

I've been following this thread intently. I've been thinking of going electric and I think this control panel would really work out well for me. I would like to start with a basic system using my current 70quart cooler mash tun and a heating element in my BK and HLT- controlled with one PID and using one to two pumps. I currently have a 50 amp 240V breaker installed in my home fuse box. (It was used for a hot tub that was taken out before we moved in). The wiring was pulled, but the breaker is still there. I am guessing I could run conduit off of this for the control panel? I called a local electrician and was quoted a seemingly high amount of about $200 just to run the wire an install a 4 prong box. Is this that hard to do? Would appreciate any advice.

sredz said:

I've been following this thread intently. I've been thinking of going electric and I think this control panel would really work out well for me. I would like to start with a basic system using my current 70quart cooler mash tun and a heating element in my BK and HLT- controlled with one PID and using one to two pumps. I currently have a 50 amp 240V breaker installed in my home fuse box. (It was used for a hot tub that was taken out before we moved in). The wiring was pulled, but the breaker is still there. I am guessing I could run conduit off of this for the control panel? I called a local electrician and was quoted a seemingly high amount of about $200 just to run the wire an install a 4 prong box. Is this that hard to do? Would appreciate any advice.

Click to expand...

It sounds like your looking for something similar to what I was looking for when I found this build. I only have one batch on my system but I already love it.

As far as the electrical is concerned I would recommend getting help from someone with experience. Running a new circuit off the breaker isn't really hard but it can be extremely dangerous.

Your going to want to a 30 amp breaker for the control box and you should definitely have a gfci. You can either get a breaker with a built in gfci or just get a 30amp breaker and then use a spa panel with a built in gfci like a lot of us on this forum use. When i was pricing these the straight 30amp gfci was pretty easy to find and cost around $10-$20. I only found the 30 amp breaker with the gfci online and it was nearly $100, this is why I went with the spa panel.

Anyways to sum up unless your confident that you know what your doing or have an experienced friend to help I would hire an electrician to wire the outlet for you. Have a 30 amp breaker installed at the same time and your all set.

After adding the teflon tape and silicon to the element seal my problem kettle seems to be working better but still isn't perfect. After running for about 45 minutes today it popped the gfci.

When I reset it and tried to turn it back on it immediately popped it again. Next I pulled the cover off of the box around the element to see if there were any signs of moisture, which there werent. Not only did i put silicon around the threads but once the element was tight I filled the area around the base of the element with silicone.

After I checked the seals and waited a few more minutes I turned the element back on. I let it run for about an hour and half longer set at 165 in auto mode without any further problems.

Although the test was a lot better than my previous results I'm still not 100% confident in my HLT. I'll try it again next brew day and if the problem returns I will order another element.

Thanks zacc for the info. I’m not overly confident in my electrical knowledge so I guess I’ll bite the bullet and hire an electrician to install the breaker for me. Just so I’m understanding correctly- What I need to do is install a basic 30amp 240V non GFCI (3-wire) breaker in my main fuse box (like this -http://www.amazon.com/CRO-MP230-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-MURRAY/dp/B004XZOBOY). From here I would have this breaker hardwired into the GFCI spa panel (4-wire). Do I connect the 4-line wire leaving the spa panel to a 4-prong outlet box that the controller will plug into? Or is this just typically just hardwired into the control box?

sredz said:

Thanks zacc for the info. I’m not overly confident in my electrical knowledge so I guess I’ll bite the bullet and hire an electrician to install the breaker for me. Just so I’m understanding correctly- What I need to do is install a basic 30amp 240V non GFCI (3-wire) breaker in my main fuse box (like this -http://www.amazon.com/CRO-MP230-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-MURRAY/dp/B004XZOBOY). From here I would have this breaker hardwired into the GFCI spa panel (4-wire). Do I connect the 4-line wire leaving the spa panel to a 4-prong outlet box that the controller will plug into? Or is this just typically just hardwired into the control box?

Click to expand...

Hi sredz, sorry I didnt respond earlier, I've been out of town.

You could either hardwire it our use plugs. If your running a new line I would recommend wiring that to a 4 wire outlet. Then depending on wether you used a breaker w/GFCI you would either plug the spa panel into that outlet or the control box. If using the spa panel it should then have a 4 wire outlet for you to plug the control box into.

If your looking to make it easier for yourself i would recommend just using the breaker w/gfci. Since your going to be running a new line anyways going this route is only like $20-$30 more than using the spa panel. This way once the electrician installed the new circuit you would just plug your box in and not have to do anything else.

I'm getting ready to start a control panel build. I liked the single PID, 2 element design used here, but wanted to make a couple of changes. I'm more comfortable with a main power on/off, rather than the e-stop. And, I prefer to use contactors rather than the 3PDT switch concept. So, I started with PJs drawing, and made a few changes. I'd appreciate any comments/suggestions/concerns a more experienced eye might have.

Thanks

It's been a while since I last posted so I just wanted to give an update. I replaced the element in the kettle that was giving me problems and it has worked perfectly since then!

I have brewed 6 batches so far on this system and absolutly love it! Thanks for all the help jsguitar and P-J!

For anyone on the border about electric I would highly recommend it!

P-J said:

As always - Click on the image for a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17"):

Click to expand...

I'm working my way towards a RIMS system. After finally getting my dinky pid controller functioning I've become much more confident in how these things work. I do have a few questions about this diagram.
What is the part that says zero voltage circuit? Can I replace it with a SSR(since I already have one available)?
And I'm sure it can but I need to be reaffirmed, with the 2000w element running, the pump can also be running(assuming its a march 809)?
Also, I found the mouser 25a switch. But that site is overwhelming. Can I get a part number/link to the DPST 15A 120v switch and the SPST 15A 120v switch

Hi All...I've been following this post for a few days and I am looking to build something along the lines of this diagram. Can someone explain to me why the heating elements only need 3 prongs, and don't have a neutral wire coming out of them like everything else? Does the ground act the same as the neutral for these?

Also, I'd be interested in learning how the yellow EPO works. Do any of these panels have an on/off switch, or is this the only thing? Am I correct that it relies on tripping the GFCI to turn the panel off?

In Kal's plans he has the box grounded as well...I don't see this on any of these diagrams. And do any of these show how to wire in a temp probe to the HLT?

Sorry for all the questions.

Thanks!

Jim

smoothlarryhughes said:

Hi All...I've been following this post for a few days and I am looking to build something along the lines of this diagram. Can someone explain to me why the heating elements only need 3 prongs, and don't have a neutral wire coming out of them like everything else? Does the ground act the same as the neutral for these?

Also, I'd be interested in learning how the yellow EPO works. Do any of these panels have an on/off switch, or is this the only thing? Am I correct that it relies on tripping the GFCI to turn the panel off?

In Kal's plans he has the box grounded as well...I don't see this on any of these diagrams. And do any of these show how to wire in a temp probe to the HLT?

Sorry for all the questions.

Thanks!

Jim

Click to expand...

Although I built this box I'm not an electrician and can't tell you exactly why it doesn't need a neutral. I know it needs the two hot lines to get the 220 but not sure on the exacts beyond that.

The resistor inline with the epo switch causes a small current leakage which in term pops the gfci. This is meant just as a quick emergency off switch, I have never used it on mine except for testing. There is a power switch for each component on the box so just turn all of those off and your good.

The ground terminal may not show it in the diagram but it should be a grounding post so the box is grounded. All of the diagrams should include the temp probe otherwise the pid could only be used in manual mode.

Hope this helps a bit.

so how do these systems work? temperature probe is hooked up to HLT or MT to use PID to control temp during mashing. but how does the boil work? are the temperature probes interchangable? like quick disconnects once mash is over you disconnect temp prob and hook it up to boil kettle? sorry for the newb questions but I'm trying to convert my virgin kegs and would like for this type of system to be in the not so distant future so i want to have all my bases covered when i start ordering all of my bulkheads, valves, sight glasses, eetc...

Hi forcabrew,

Re: the boil, this diagram/diagrams uses the Auber 2352 PID which has a manual mode with a dedicated button (A/M) to easily switch between auto and manual modes. Mine is based on the first diagram on p.3. I've got one probe in the HLT and when it comes time to boil I switch the power output to the BK heating element and hit the A/M button on the PID to switch to manual mode. The PID requires a probe hooked up regardless of mode, but in manual mode it doesnt rely on that input but instead delivers power based on whatever percentage you set it to. So your one probe can stay in your HLT AND you can use the same PID in manual mode to control the BK.

P-J,

As per my pm, I've been working on switching out my selector switch from the NKK S-33F to a NKK S833 high capacity switch. Firstly, this has been amazingly challenging. The stranded wire will not fit no matter what I do so I finally just used crimp connectors. I have a good double ratchet crimper so I'm not too worried about that.

The problem is now the panel doesn't appear to be getting power. The PID switch won't illuminate when turned on and the element indicator light won't come on. Are the switches to be wired the same? They look like it but maybe I screwed something up.

Thanks for any help.

BTW, the wiring diagram I used is on the top of page three of this thread.

jsguitar,

Here is the data sheet for that switch (NKK S833). Sounds like you might have a wiring error. Please check the sheet + your wiring and let me know.

P-J