Brewrig FINALLY started.

This is the design that I've decided to go with.
Two 15 gal blichmann kettles (that I already have)
A custom concave HLT that is being built by a friend. It shaves off 9 inches from the rig, and just looks cool too.

The same guy thats building my kettle will also build the Stainless stand.

It will be all electric.
I may want to add automation later, but for now, I want it set up as simple as possible . ( many questions to follow)

Also thinking of some kind of 'insert' under the kettles. It's electric, so no worry of burners and such.
Maybe wood,plastic,stone,glass, ect.

Do you have any offcuts from that beautiful bar? Because that would look great.

I think this is an awesome design. What's the plan for the control box? Standard enclosure? Mounted to the stand or remote?

I think we do have some of that pecky cypress left. Not sure how wood would stand up to the heat from the bottom of the kettles. Would I need an insulating barrier? I don't guess wood burns at 212 degrees.

I don't want a control box mounted to the outside of the rig. Remember I'm trying to keep the footprint small for non brewing times.
I'm thinking something movable, that could store under the rig when not in use.

I have no plans for how the box will be wired. At some point in the future I'd love to have a BCS and run it from my laptop, but thats too much for me to try to figure out for now.
What I need to know is the simplest way to set up a 10 gal electric for now.

Also will move hoses ala brutus 10 for now, to furthur simplify.

My electric rig is currently sitting on a plywood base... no burnt or scorched wood.
I'm using converted kegs so there is a bit of separation between the kettle bottom and the plywood, but I don't think you will have a problem.

If you're thinking of the BCS later, I would put a nice polished diamond plate on that shelf. You could then have all your SSR's, relays, etc. all mounted on the stand under the shelf, but not be visible. Plus, it will add to the bling factor!

Can't wait to see this one built!

I wouldn't go with the cypress, It's a waste of good wood for a surface that will (sooner or later,) get wet. A piece of 3/4" ply would work great.

You could get either some neoprene or even some reflectex and put it under the pots, if you're worried about the wood. 100*c isn't enough to burn wood, especially if you paint/poly it.

B

Looking very good so far!

It looks like it is going to be another incredible build around here.

If you want simple, this is what I would do. Simple 2x4 base, dress it up how you like. Two pumps with switches. Each heated tank gets a PID (one for my system, three for you with the RIMS, BK, HLT). Done. If you have the blichmann kettles already, then it should be a straight forward build after you get that cool concave tank made.

I know alot of the brutus stands were 2" tubing.
I'm thinking 1.5"
I think the 2" may be overkill, and 1" may not be big enough (probably physically strong enough, but it still needs to look beefy)

Layne-

IMO, this thread lays out what you want exactly. You can always add things later for further automation if that is the route you want to go. But Ed's box gets you to BCS control with proper safety, industrial design, and a control box that wouldn't be too tough to remove from the rig for storage.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/electric-question-153310/

That's the way I would do it.

Boerderij_Kabouter said:

Layne-

IMO, this thread lays out what you want exactly. You can always add things later for further automation if that is the route you want to go. But Ed's box gets you to BCS control with proper safety, industrial design, and a control box that wouldn't be too tough to remove from the rig for storage.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/electric-question-153310/

That's the way I would do it.

Click to expand...

Thanks BK, I really appreciate the props...
And you are absolutely correct about the box being "portable".

I have yet to decide on a stand, so my vessels are sitting on a section of scaffolding (on a sheet of plywood), and the control box is sitting on a separate cart.

Ed

Thanks. Got that one bookmarked from my state of confusion days. I bookmarked and 'readthru' all those posts, but not knowing what direction I wanted to go, didn't really absorb any of them. I'll go back and 'digest' this thread. I reviewed Code rage's primer last night.

Thanks to all you guys for 'blazing the trail', then turning around and sharing the info so freely.

Oh Ed, I'd much rather be missing the stand than missing the electric protion of these builds I'll get there. gotta be patient.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-automated-e-herms-build-labjack-156213/

Mine is on wood. Has never been an issue. Definitely put a coat (or 3 in my case) of something to keep it from soaking up wort. It will happen......

OK, finally officially started. Some parts on order, others being ordered in the next few days.

I did change the design some. The concave kettle didn't pan out. I'm ordering a 20gal Blichmann to go with the two 15gal blichmanns that I already have.
The HLT will be on the lower shelf, to conserve lenght of rig. Here's a pic of the 'near final' design. A few last minute changes. I am meeting with my buddy at the fab shop this week to turn over the plans for the stand.

Does anyone know where I can find a Straight, not 's' shaped 4500w ULWD element to put in my RIMS tube?
All I can find are the 's' shaped ones in 4500w

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLVC6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I think that should do the trick...

Thanks!
Damn, i've been searching for the last 2 hours,

Lowes sells that element, if you don't want to wait for shipping...

I find this amusing.....

Frequently Bought Together
Customers buy this item with Camco #02963 5500W 240V Ripp Element $22.57
Good ole HBTers

Layne said:

Does anyone know where I can find a Straight, not 's' shaped 4500w ULWD element to put in my RIMS tube?
All I can find are the 's' shaped ones in 4500w

Click to expand...

The 2583 is just a LWD. The Camco 2923 is the straight 4500w ULWD. Camco 2933 is the straight 5500w ULWD which is what I use in my RIMS. There a big difference in surface area with the two ULWD and I recommend going with those, especially since it's basically the same price and dimensions. The ULWD elements are also made of chromium incoloy so they can withstand a little dry firing without melting. Good luck!

Thanks a million!

Do you have a reccomendation for the 5500w elements for my BK and HLT?
Does the Ripp elements have more surface area? Does it matter.

The one you pointed out that others most commonly buy: Camco 2963.

ALso, i think I got my 2933 from home depot. Ordered the 2963 from here.

It's slightly outdated but I have a parts list in my build thread.

One more question about elements. I will be heating my water in the HLT and transfering to MT. The RIMS will be only for controling mash temps(which I do now with a 2000w) and occaisional step mash.
Any reason for going with the 4500 or 5500w element? It will be in a 2" SS pipe.

I had to go with the 5500w since my system has no HLT and relies solely on the RIMS to heat strike and sparge water. So I run it wide open until those temps are reached. During the mash I limit the maximum pulse width so it effectively turns into a lower wattage element. You should probably just stick with the 2kw until you have a need for more power. BTW, what are you controlling the elements with?

Also, is the 2" diameter set in stone already?

The elements will be controlled by PID.
I already own the 2" pipe. Why? Always looking for ideas and thoughts.

Nothing major. 1.5" is cheaper and the smaller diameter provides faster flow rate over the elements. It's really nitpicky stuff though. A 2" will do great.

Ordered my new kettle,elements,some fittings, and compiling a list of other stuff as we speak.
Boerderij_Kabouter is building my control panel for me, and my lovely wife is paying for it for our anniversary
Full electric, 220v, BCS controlled.
We should be brewing on this before Christmas! I cant wait.

More Pics soon.

Put your MLT on the bottom and the HLT on top....then you only need one pump....

ScubaSteve said:

Put your MLT on the bottom and the HLT on top....then you only need one pump....

Click to expand...

But then I couldn't stir my mash.

You would have to redesign the cart, but I do like the MLT on the bottom. It makes sense for minimizing work in pumping. If you put the MLT low, then you could also run a 2 tank system without modification. You would have the best of both worlds (Brutus 10 and 20).

Joshua

Just back from a long business trip.
20g Blichmann BK is in.
Elements are in.
Final stand plans go to my fab shop buddy this weekend.
Boerderij Kabouter is making lots of progress on my electronics.
Gettin closer by the day!

I really like the idea of putting wood to contrast the stainless.
I think it would look better as an insert like this, but easier to build, and more improtant,easier to clean up if the wood just sat on top of the stainless.
Do you think the insert version is enough better looking to warrant the extra work and cleaning?

50A 240 outlet is wired in!.

I have also been kicking around the idea of having my HLT on the bottom shelf of a similar cart. I am concerned with pump performance since the pump will be at the same level as the bottom of the HLT. Does anybody have any experience with having a pump at the same level or only slightly lower then a vessel?

Yes, it works just fine, and you will be able to reach higher flow levels because of reduced head pressure.