Marking your carboy

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to the OP, How much of the original bottle did you use for the 2 carboys? How much left over? Oh and what size bottle did you buy. Don't wanna buy the 18 dollar one if the small size was plenty!

The small bottle is plenty. I did this a few months ago, and you could do several with one little bottle.
 
to the OP, How much of the original bottle did you use for the 2 carboys? How much left over? Oh and what size bottle did you buy. Don't wanna buy the 18 dollar one if the small size was plenty!

The small size is plenty. I got the big one because I have 5 carboys I'll be doing and wasn't sure if it was enough.
 
So I did my big carboy last night. Should have referenced your post before hand. The directions said to leave on for 5 minutes (actually left it on about 7) then wash off. This is what I did. I did get a usable etch since it's just for a quick reference but there isn't a lot of contrast. if I do my other I'll leave on for 15 minutes probably.
 
I can't see the OP's pics
74866013-willyX.gif
but I have been wanting to do this to some mugs. I'll have to give it a shot. :rockin:
 
that is a verry good idea, i have been glass etching off and on for 20+ years and never thought of that. but i did think of these.

these are ones i did a couple of months ago



this is a 1 gallon jug i did for wine making



I was wondering what you use to do this, tape or vinyl. I etched my logo on a pint glass the other using tape, but it took a long time to cut out the design. I would like to find something I could use again.
 
So I did my big carboy last night. Should have referenced your post before hand. The directions said to leave on for 5 minutes (actually left it on about 7) then wash off. This is what I did. I did get a usable etch since it's just for a quick reference but there isn't a lot of contrast. if I do my other I'll leave on for 15 minutes probably.

I can't remeber exactly how long I left mine on. It probably was around 15 min. I kept brushing the acid around also.
 
here this is what you could do with 6-8 hours of stencil cutting. i did this for my new niece.
it measures 16" w 20" h i need to frame it.
 
Went around researching glass etching after seeing this thread. I went online and found this Stencil Pro so that you can make a custom stencil with a printout instead of cutting it out. I ordered it and hopefully will get it first part of next week and let everyone know how it goes. There is also a video on youtube showing a guy using it to stencil a shirt, seems to work well. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-Ur8zTEou0&feature=related]Part 1[/ame][ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIpDiVpU2YQ&feature=related]Part 2[/ame][ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DkJyzEONUk&feature=related]Part 3[/ame]
 
The etching is only at the surface level(much less than sandblasting would do). I have no doubts that it has not weakened the overall structure of the glass.

I don't have my books with me but I can definitely remember using surface finish as a factor during "will it break" problems in engineering classes. Having a rough finish will make it slightly weaker, but the amount may be negligible. Maybe someone else who works with this stuff on a daily basis can comment.

Then again maybe noone cares. Looks really nice though.
 
What if I'd like finer lines for gradations. Has anyone used tape in the 1/8" wide range? Does it work or does the cream seep under the tape?
 
What if I'd like finer lines for gradations. Has anyone used tape in the 1/8" wide range? Does it work or does the cream seep under the tape?

Wouldn't a wax coating be the best way to do this. First coat the area in wax, the scratch off the areas you would like to etch.

This seems like the best way to me...
 
The etched carboy does look really cool, good job. I'm just wondering if there is a need to do it if you don't bottle directly from the fermenter. Thoughts?
 
Great job on the etching!

A safety note for all you would be etchers: The etching creme used by the OP contains fluoric acid. This is extremely nasty stuff and MUST be used with proper protection, namely gloves and eye protection. The stuff is readily absorbed through the skin and can cause severe burns long after exposure. Here is the MSDS sheet.

Tom
 
Here is my version using the same method:

DSC04248.jpg

I put rings all the way around to make it easier to read from a distance...
DSC04249.JPG

And a pic in use...
DSC04236.JPG

Thanks OP for posting this method! I was wary at first but I can certainly support using the glass-etch now that i've tried it with good success...

-Tripod
 
While I do admire the creativity and they look cool, but I question the practicality of marking the volumes on a carboy. IOW, I typically know how much I put into the carboy and typically nothing escapes until I empty it, so I don't understand the advantage. I did at one time fill my 6.5 gal carboys with 5 & 6 gallons and measured the depth with a tape, but never really used the information subsequently.
 
While I do admire the creativity and they look cool, but I question the practicality of marking the volumes on a carboy. IOW, I typically know how much I put into the carboy and typically nothing escapes until I empty it, so I don't understand the advantage. I did at one time fill my 6.5 gal carboys with 5 & 6 gallons and measured the depth with a tape, but never really used the information subsequently.

The only way I know exactly how much goes into my carboy is to calculate the volume. Markings make that easy. Amounts of racking loss from the kettle vary for me depending on hop mass (I use whole hops).
 
The only way I know exactly how much goes into my carboy is to calculate the volume. Markings make that easy. Amounts of racking loss from the kettle vary for me depending on hop mass (I use whole hops).

I frequently use whole hops too and I am familiar with the racking loss issues, but my primaries are plastic that have accurate volume markings, so I know how much wort I have collected. By the time I rack to the carboy, there's not a lot that I can do about the volume unless I want to dilute it with boiled and cooled water to increase the volume. That would be a rarity for me. It comes down to a 'so what?' thing for me. So what if I'm over or under by a half gallon or even more. At that point it is what it is. I always plan for the losses and usually collect somewhat more wort than I need and that's why I use 6.5 g buckets and carboys that provide the extra freeboard. I really hate it when I get less than a full five gallons into a keg and that hasn't happened for a very long time.
 
I frequently use whole hops too and I am familiar with the racking loss issues, but my primaries are plastic that have accurate volume markings, so I know how much wort I have collected. By the time I rack to the carboy, there's not a lot that I can do about the volume unless I want to dilute it with boiled and cooled water to increase the volume. That would be a rarity for me. It comes down to a 'so what?' thing for me. So what if I'm over or under by a half gallon or even more. At that point it is what it is. I always plan for the losses and usually collect somewhat more wort than I need and that's why I use 6.5 g buckets and carboys that provide the extra freeboard. I really hate it when I get less than a full five gallons into a keg and that hasn't happened for a very long time.

I think some of these guys use glass for their primaries too. That is why it is important for them to have accurate markings like you have on your plastic buckets. So you have kind of made their point for them.
 
I frequently use whole hops too and I am familiar with the racking loss issues, but my primaries are plastic that have accurate volume markings, so I know how much wort I have collected. By the time I rack to the carboy, there's not a lot that I can do about the volume unless I want to dilute it with boiled and cooled water to increase the volume. That would be a rarity for me. It comes down to a 'so what?' thing for me. So what if I'm over or under by a half gallon or even more. At that point it is what it is. I always plan for the losses and usually collect somewhat more wort than I need and that's why I use 6.5 g buckets and carboys that provide the extra freeboard. I really hate it when I get less than a full five gallons into a keg and that hasn't happened for a very long time.

Yep, I ferment almost everything in glass, so it is nice to know how much I am putting in Primary for efficiency calculations.
 
I think some of these guys use glass for their primaries too. That is why it is important for them to have accurate markings like you have on your plastic buckets. So you have kind of made their point for them.

Ding ding ding! :D

Yeah, I normally primary in glass...
 
Has anyone actually done the stencil with wax covering the glass? I know it was mentioned at several points as a good option in this thread, but noone followed up with results.

If anyone has done it a good step by step would be greatly appreciated. I would like to do my brewery name/logo and graduated markings on my carboys and I think that would give the best results if it works.
 
Yep, I ferment almost everything in glass, so it is nice to know how much I am putting in Primary for efficiency calculations.

Same here, those pics are of my primary and I like having volumes marked so I can add top-of water when I do a partial boil, etc...
 
Saw this thread earlier today and figured I'd give it a try. Turned out okay, just a few spots that didn't get covered thick enough in the etching gunk. I'll probably be doing a few growlers with the brewery logo as well. Happy with the results. Thanks for the cool idea.

etch.jpg
 
Saw this thread earlier today and figured I'd give it a try. Turned out okay, just a few spots that didn't get covered thick enough in the etching gunk. I'll probably be doing a few growlers with the brewery logo as well. Happy with the results. Thanks for the cool idea.

etch.jpg

Now that's one cool looking etching job, best i've seen so far, congrats bro.

I have 10 gallons of green industrial diamond grit once used or blasted but afraid to use with a thin rubber mask as the diamond will eat away the carbide nozzle of the sand blasting unit I have. It's a syphon pot like a old spray gun unit. Even with once used diamond at a smaller fractured diameter it will still eat into glass if held too close and long. I let over 3,000 pounds of used diamond grit get away can't pack rat away everything from job sites. It was used on stainless lap pools at a sports club as a safety law stated brushed stainless was a hazard. They blasted two pools and epoxied them light blue. They could only use the diamond one time and trash it into dumpsters. Dumpster diving me got 10 gallons. Coins in a rubber tumbler will eat the coins into dimes, don't ask.
Is a neutralizing agent needed after washing off the etching paste?
I have diamond blasted gallon marks into the inside of the MLT as well the boil kettles, no more dip stick readings as well any hidden bugs in the frosted gallon lines.
 
slightly OT maybe, and apologies in advance if so, but since we're discussing marking..... How do you guys mark your stainless boil kettle? I just have a plastic (HDPE) dowel with marks on it I use.
 
Very nice etching job there Freddyb. I may have to use it as a guide. ;)

How long did you leave the acid on for?

Thanks. I brushed multiple layers of etching compound onto the carboy continuously for about 5 minutes. Then I waited another 10 minutes before starting the water rinse. Make sure to lay the stuff on thick. In hindsight, I might have gone a few minutes longer. I'll experiment a bit on some growlers.

Is a neutralizing agent needed after washing off the etching paste?
According to the instructions, a thorough rinse with water is required. No additional neutralizing agent is mentioned. I rinsed for at least 10 minutes before removing the masking and then for another few minutes after just to be sure that there was no remaining residue.

I have diamond blasted gallon marks into the inside of the MLT as well the boil kettles, no more dip stick readings as well any hidden bugs in the frosted gallon lines.
This sounds like a great idea! I don't have much confidence in my notched plastic spoon as a volume measurement device.
 
slightly OT maybe, and apologies in advance if so, but since we're discussing marking..... How do you guys mark your stainless boil kettle? I just have a plastic (HDPE) dowel with marks on it I use.

I used that thin surgical rubber sheeting sand and grit blasters use for glass frostings on the inside of my last brewery I sold. The MLT and Boil kettle were marked with this same diamond grit. I mentioned this last year on this forum.
I was hammered as this would collect nasty bugs, come on just a frosted finish
not 36 grit or a a concrete finish on the stainless. On the boil these were made as hot level marks to get the proper cold gallons for the fermenter, it adds up when your adding 16 1/2 gallons into the fermenter for 15 in the corny's.
 
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