Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

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One piece of malt completely stops the pumps impeller. Can't figure how the grain is getting out of the malt pipe. The mesh was tight to the sieve, and the sieve sit tight in the malt tube. I'm also careful when adding the malt to the pipe. It seems to get past the top sieve when it starts to rise. Yambor44 did you use your stitched cloth covers and if so how did they work. I'm thinking of making a pair. I wonder if the cloth when wrapped around the edge of the sieve creates a better seal. Was able to salvage the batch using the March pump. O.G. came in as expected but needed to mash longer to get complete conversion. Also, even though I vorlaufed the wort wasn't as clear as when circulating up as the BM does.

Yes I did and yes they did. Even cleaned well! So far so good but I reserve the right to change my opinion if they don't hold up!! :p :mug:
 
... I'm assuming this diaper sanitizer is easily found?


The "active ingredient" is sodium percarbonate which you can source in bulk. Quick google gave me http://www.chemistrystore.com/search.cgi?keywords=sodium+percarbonate&Click+to+Search.x=20&Click+to+Search.y=11 ...for example. It's good stuff for soaking gear in... breaks downs solids and has antibacterial qualities as well. I don't know much about your oxiclean, but I imagine there would be something like it over there.

...just be sure to use unscented/non-perfumed product ;)
 
The "active ingredient" is sodium percarbonate which you can source in bulk. Quick google gave me http://www.chemistrystore.com/search.cgi?keywords=sodium+percarbonate&Click+to+Search.x=20&Click+to+Search.y=11 ...for example. It's good stuff for soaking gear in... breaks downs solids and has antibacterial qualities as well. I don't know much about your oxiclean, but I imagine there would be something like it over there.

...just be sure to use unscented/non-perfumed product ;)

Looks like OxiClean is tha same and cheaper than the other.

The active ingredient in OxiClean is sodium percarbonate (Na2CO3•H2O2), an adduct of sodium carbonate (Na2CO3) and hydrogen peroxide
 
Although maybe it isn't cheaper considering the OxiClean isn't pure active ingredient?

Copied from the following site:

Forget OxiClean -- it's all filler and very little active ingredient. You're paying for a brand and its advertising budget rather than actual performance.

The ingredient in OxiClean that bleaches tough stains is Sodium Percarbonate. OxiClean is 50-60% sodium percarb, the rest is filler. You're better off purchasing 100% pure sodium percarbonate -- the advantage being that you'll get more effectiveness with less product, and you're paying for 100% pure product instead of filler + advertising.

Your best bet is to go to www.kokogm.com (Kokopelli's Green Market) or www.drugstore.com and search for Ecover Ecological Non Chlorine Laundry Bleach (powder). It is 100% percarbonate and comes out cheaper, per lb. of active ingredient, than OxiClean. If you are looking for bulk, you can check out www.thechemistrystore.com, but their shipping/handling charges are quite high. I don't recommend them unless you are looking for something obscure and in large quantities.

To give you an idea of dosing differences between OxiClean and Ecover's 100% pure percarbonate: OxiClean includes a big scoop for their product, and you have to use a good portion of it to get out tough stains. Compare that to only 2 TBS of Ecover product to get out colored stains, according to the labeled instructions, or 1 TBS to keep your whites white. You'll need 2-4x the amount of OxiClean, maybe more, to do the same job.

I hope this helps, and let us know what you decide. I've been using Ecover with fantastic results that weren't possible without using an unreasonably high quantity of OxiClean. I, too, have a front loader.
 
Although maybe it isn't cheaper considering the OxiClean isn't pure active ingredient?

Copied from the following site:

Forget OxiClean -- it's all filler and very little active ingredient. You're paying for a brand and its advertising budget rather than actual performance.

The ingredient in OxiClean that bleaches tough stains is Sodium Percarbonate. OxiClean is 50-60% sodium percarb, the rest is filler. You're better off purchasing 100% pure sodium percarbonate -- the advantage being that you'll get more effectiveness with less product, and you're paying for 100% pure product instead of filler + advertising.

Your best bet is to go to www.kokogm.com (Kokopelli's Green Market) or www.drugstore.com and search for Ecover Ecological Non Chlorine Laundry Bleach (powder). It is 100% percarbonate and comes out cheaper, per lb. of active ingredient, than OxiClean. If you are looking for bulk, you can check out www.thechemistrystore.com, but their shipping/handling charges are quite high. I don't recommend them unless you are looking for something obscure and in large quantities.

To give you an idea of dosing differences between OxiClean and Ecover's 100% pure percarbonate: OxiClean includes a big scoop for their product, and you have to use a good portion of it to get out tough stains. Compare that to only 2 TBS of Ecover product to get out colored stains, according to the labeled instructions, or 1 TBS to keep your whites white. You'll need 2-4x the amount of OxiClean, maybe more, to do the same job.

I hope this helps, and let us know what you decide. I've been using Ecover with fantastic results that weren't possible without using an unreasonably high quantity of OxiClean. I, too, have a front loader.

Yes- but even pure percarbonate cleaner is sensitive to water hardness. If you want to address the problem by combining ingredients, I've seen Arm & Hammer Washing Soda (NOT baking soda, which is sodium bicarbonate) recommended to treat hard water before using percarbonate cleaners. The single-application product that contains the chelators to deal with hardness is PBW (Powdered Brewery Wash) from Five Star Chemical. I use PBW, myself, because I don't use all that much of it, and our well water has way too much iron & calcium to use a straight percarbonate cleaner.
 
The UPS man left me a teaser this afternoon. Morebeer had this in stock but have to wait on the 20L unit coming from Germany...

Is this the same design as others have received as it's different from the pics I've seen.

Braumeister_Cover.jpg
 
Looks the same except for the printing/decals. Mine has a somewhat shiny washable outside, and a closed cell type of foam on the inside. The fit around the handles is very tight. Velcro in the back to secure it.
 
Looks the same except for the printing/decals. Mine has a somewhat shiny washable outside, and a closed cell type of foam on the inside. The fit around the handles is very tight. Velcro in the back to secure it.

I believe we have the same item, just differences in decals. Pics I've seen had a more simple Speidel decal on it. Don't dislike this design, just found it interesting that it was different from the pics.
 
Brewing at the moment. My grain bill was 4kg and I sparged with 4 litres. Started mashing with 23 litres, started boiling with 23 litres. No loss there yet.

Temp set up at 102, without any thermo collar and no lid, system shows 99 mostly, sometimes 100.
 
Brewing at the moment. My grain bill was 4kg and I sparged with 4 litres. Started mashing with 23 litres, started boiling with 23 litres. No loss there yet.

Temp set up at 102, without any thermo collar and no lid, system shows 99 mostly, sometimes 100.

Lost 3 litres in the boil, and further 0.75 on the way to FV. Was tipping, not sure if a dip tube would've helped me much there. Hit the OG nicely too, so I guess my problems were in not sparging.

Had huge problems getting the filter metal on top of wort without splashing grain on top of it. Having a smallish grain bill adds to the problem. Need to figure out a tool to lower the filter neatly down.

Mashed in at default 38, then did 3x 20 mins at 67, then mash out 10 mins at 77. I did 3x 20 because I am not sure if pump breaks differ accross mash phases so to be sure I just broke it down to 3x 20 instead of 1x 60 then 2x 0 mins.

Very stress-free, was even able to do a beer run while mashing, 8 miles away (some wheat and London Pride). Very happy so far.:ban:
 
DeGarre said:
Lost 3 litres in the boil, and further 0.75 on the way to FV. Was tipping, not sure if a dip tube would've helped me much there. Hit the OG nicely too, so I guess my problems were in not sparging.

Had huge problems getting the filter metal on top of wort without splashing grain on top of it. Having a smallish grain bill adds to the problem. Need to figure out a tool to lower the filter neatly down.

Mashed in at default 38, then did 3x 20 mins at 67, then mash out 10 mins at 77. I did 3x 20 because I am not sure if pump breaks differ accross mash phases so to be sure I just broke it down to 3x 20 instead of 1x 60 then 2x 0 mins.

Very stress-free, was even able to do a beer run while mashing, 8 miles away (some wheat and London Pride). Very happy so far.:ban:

Are you by chance placing the top metal filter (sieve) in upside down? I just place the cloth filter onto the grain bed, then hold the 2" collar of the sieve and gently lower it onto the filter and grain bed. Sometimes a bit or two of grain gets around the edge I guess but nothing that has caused any problems for me so far.
 
Maybe you could try some stainless safety wire.

Don't BMs now ship with fine SS screens used in conjunction with the coarse screen? If so, can they be purchased?

I noticed nobody had answered this yet for you so... yes. I received mine several weeks ago and it certainly did come with the stainless mesh screens. Although I have had a piece of grain stuck in the impeller ALREADY on my first brew. Looks like I will need to be more careful.
 
The SS sieve (the heavy stainless steel plate with the ferrule welded to it) needs to be placed so the ferrule is in the up position. As Yambor44 said use that as you holding point, and remember the wire mesh goes in first. I think the trouble with the 20l is the diameter of the sieve is small enough compared to the malt pipe that when you place it in place grain particles have enough room to flow up the sides of the malt pipe and into the pot. I don't think the issue is with the bottom sieve/mesh because any grain that slip past the sieve/plate would still be prevented from entering the pump intake bcause it is captive in the bottom sealed malt pipe. I'm thinking the sieve/mesh works fine on the bottom, but you need the cloth with drawstring over the top to make a better seal with the sides of the malt pipe. I've had grain get stuck every brew, but only on the last one it wasn't able to clear itself. I'm confident this will be a simple fix.
 
...I don't think the issue is with the bottom sieve/mesh because any grain that slip past the sieve/plate would still be prevented from entering the pump intake bcause it is captive in the bottom sealed malt pipe. I'm thinking the sieve/mesh works fine on the bottom, but you need the cloth with drawstring over the top to make a better seal with the sides of the malt pipe. ...

This.
 
Does anyone know if Thorsten is still the U.S. distributor. Since Morebeer now sells them I noticed the base price of the units is similar but Morebeer's accessories are quite a bit more expensive.
 
hfk2 said:
Does anyone know if Thorsten is still the U.S. distributor. Since Morebeer now sells them I noticed the base price of the units is similar but Morebeer's accessories are quite a bit more expensive.

He is. Just got a reply from him about when he may be getting some cloth filters. Still nothing yet. I may just ask Speidel to send me a set.
 
Hi Yambor44, I have a seamstress that charges me short money to sew up things. She thinks it's entertaining to see what I ask her to make(nothing to do with clothing all beer related). I'm thinking of having her make up the cloth filters with the drawstring. What do you think they are made from. I have a voile BIAB bag but not sure if it might be to fine and could clog. What about cheesecloth? Thanks
 
hfk2 said:
Hi Yambor44, I have a seamstress that charges me short money to sew up things. She thinks it's entertaining to see what I ask her to make(nothing to do with clothing all beer related). I'm thinking of having her make up the cloth filters with the drawstring. What do you think they are made from. I have a voile BIAB bag but not sure if it might be to fine and could clog. What about cheesecloth? Thanks

I'm not sure. They do feel "plastici-ish" to me so maybe a BIAB type material would work.
 
Anybody ever done a decoction mash with the Braumeister? Just wondering how much of a pain it will be with the filter setup and considering taking one on with a Vienna Lager in the coming month or so.
 
Thanks for the reply to my previous question Clex.

Here's another one for the group:

Counterflow chillers - Anyone using one? If you are, in what manner?

My thoughts are that a CFC with a pump could be used to recirculate chilled wort to bring the temperature of the entire wort volume down, with the output creating a whirlpool in the kettle, leaving you with chilled, whirlpooled wort. A right-angled discharge pipe clamped in some way to the side of the kettle to create the whirlpool.

This could be a way to replicate the effects of Jamil's recirculating chiller, as he mentions on his site.

Issues could include break material and hops entering the chiller, before the whirlpool can take effect, potentially jamming up the CFC.

I'd like to hear your thoughts on this one!
 
I just pulled the trigger on the 50L Braumeister unit. Yambor44’s video and this thread was the clincher. I had been searching the net for an electric system when I stumbled across Yambor’s video. After watching the video and reading the full thread I decided “I gotta to get me one of these”. I tried to call the guy in Florida and got “your call can not be completed as dialed” ….1-877-620-3227. So I rang up the More Beer folks. Don’t hate me, but they had one in stock and it should be shipped early next week. I know many have had to wait three or more weeks for their delivery. My thanks to all who have contributed to this thread and of course to Yambor44 for his informative video. I have enjoyed it several times. I can’t wait to start brewin.
 
I haven't tried decoction mashing yet. I likely never will, but I don't see why it would pose a significant problem.

Many users have paused the program (pumps) during the mash in order to stir the grain bed to prevent channeling, improve efficiency, or just for something to do. I don't see why removing or adding grains and liquid couldn't be done just as easily. Of course the decoction boil would need to be done in another vessel; I don't think anyone would advocate, or even think possible, that decoction could happen entirely within the unit.

The only possible issue I could see is overshooting your temps. Because the temp probe is below the malt pipe, the newly heated liquid would need to pass through the grain bed, over the malt pipe, and through the pumps before it wold hit the temp probe. All the while, the heating element would be on, adding additional heat to the mash, thereby increasing the likelihood that you'd overshoot.

I suppose you could avoid this by running the mash in manual mode, first adding your heated grains and liquid, allowing them to recirculate for while then adjust the set temp. That way the raise in temp would be taken into account before the heating elements are triggered to turn on. Yeah, it is more work and probably means you can't brew in auto mode... but then no one does decoction mashing because it is easy.
 
I haven't tried decoction mashing yet. I likely never will, but I don't see why it would pose a significant problem.

Many users have paused the program (pumps) during the mash in order to stir the grain bed to prevent channeling, improve efficiency, or just for something to do. I don't see why removing or adding grains and liquid couldn't be done just as easily. Of course the decoction boil would need to be done in another vessel; I don't think anyone would advocate, or even think possible, that decoction could happen entirely within the unit.

The only possible issue I could see is overshooting your temps. Because the temp probe is below the malt pipe, the newly heated liquid would need to pass through the grain bed, over the malt pipe, and through the pumps before it wold hit the temp probe. All the while, the heating element would be on, adding additional heat to the mash, thereby increasing the likelihood that you'd overshoot.

I suppose you could avoid this by running the mash in manual mode, first adding your heated grains and liquid, allowing them to recirculate for while then adjust the set temp. That way the raise in temp would be taken into account before the heating elements are triggered to turn on. Yeah, it is more work and probably means you can't brew in auto mode... but then no one does decoction mashing because it is easy.

That's kind of what I thought and frankly after more thought, adding some melanoidan malt is likely to be a better idea for me personally.
 
I just pulled the trigger on the 50L Braumeister unit. Yambor44’s video and this thread was the clincher. I had been searching the net for an electric system when I stumbled across Yambor’s video. After watching the video and reading the full thread I decided “I gotta to get me one of these”. I tried to call the guy in Florida and got “your call can not be completed as dialed” ….1-877-620-3227. So I rang up the More Beer folks. Don’t hate me, but they had one in stock and it should be shipped early next week. I know many have had to wait three or more weeks for their delivery. My thanks to all who have contributed to this thread and of course to Yambor44 for his informative video. I have enjoyed it several times. I can’t wait to start brewin.

Congratulations. I knew they had a 50L in stock but just couldn't justify the price difference for the way I'll use it in 5 gal mode a majority of the time. Let us know how your first brew goes!
 
Congratulations. I knew they had a 50L in stock but just couldn't justify the price difference for the way I'll use it in 5 gal mode a majority of the time. Let us know how your first brew goes!


Will do... I figured that 10G would work fine b/c I could let the second 5G keg mature for a longer time before draining it. Oh sorry, I mean partaking in the pleasure of consuming.
 
Welcome Redtag!! Sorry you weren't able to get a hold of Thorsten, but probably better for your locale to order from MoreBeer (B3) anyway. Can
t wait to hear about your first brew!

Rob
 
My 50l with both the long and short malt pipes came in this week. Now to I just need to modify the electrical cord and I can do a test run on this sucker.
 
Welcome to the BM world. You can just replace the existing plug with a U.S. type or as some have done on this forum you can purchase a transformer to step down the voltage to 110-120V U.S.. I replaced the plug and use my clothes dryer outlet with no problems at all. Let us know how you make out.
 
Correction for last post. If using a transformer you will be stepping up the voltage from our 110-120V to 220V. If you choose this path check in past posts of the amperage you'll need for outlet. If you change the plug any 220-240V 30 amp outlet will handle the load.
 
I was able to modify a cord for the 50L.

I've got an empty dryer port that isn't being used in the garage. I guess the previous owner had an electric dryer, then converted to gas dryer, which we are as well, so it's open. This is good because I don't have to install a new breaker or pull wire.

The issue is that my brewing area is the backyard, which is about 100 feet away from the garage. Since, I live in San Diego, 100% of my brewing is out back and I have no plans to relocate closer to the dryer outlet, so I needed a way to bring the power to my area.

I went down to HomeDepot and picked up a 100ft, 10 gauge heavy-duty extension cord. It's very heavy and it wasn't cheap at approx $130.

I cut off both ends and wired a dryer plug on one end and a female straight blade plug on the other.

5919818699_57db5d39a2.jpg


Next, I cut off the end of the BM power-cord and wired in a male straight blade plug.

5919818777_6d348b3fed.jpg


Then I plugged them together, I was concerned that it would come apart easily but they are very snug.

5920380840_668b68d107.jpg


Lastly, I checked everything with a volt meter.

5919818909_3b51628e33.jpg


Total cost for this is about $150
 
Yambor 44... have you worked out your chilling concerns or is it still taking a month of sudays for you to get down to the Temprature you desire?
 
Redstag said:
Yambor 44... have you worked out your chilling concerns or is it still taking a month of sudays for you to get down to the Temprature you desire?

Yes. Sorry I thought I posted my results. I used my copper IC and it chilled it with straight ice water the whole time. Took it from boiling to 68 degrees in 25 minutes.

I'll sell my stainless IC shipped for $100 if ya want it (no hoses I'm using them). :)
 
Would one of you kindly post the diameter of the spigot on the 50L model? I'm trying to determine what ID hose can be attached to it. I'm guessing .5" but I can't tell for sure.

Thanks in advance.
 
I just pulled the trigger... I can’t wait to start brewin.

You will be pleased. I know because today I have been enjoying my 1st batch, ESB, and it is simply georgious! I did a kit brew once in the 80's so this ESB is my 2nd all time brew, and I could drink this all day long, and prolly will...I am truly...flabbergasted...some novice like me can get these kind of results. And I had a sample of my single hop cascade bottled 9 days ago...stunning! And I haven't even dry hopped or done any fancy moves like that at all yet!
 

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