Changing Spark Plugs

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Kittyfeet

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My little Nissan Sentra turned 100k miles a few weeks ago, and it's time to either get her serviced or do some of the stuff myself.

At the moment, I'm opting to learn more about the car and do a few things myself. First off is changing the spark plugs. It costs an arm and a leg to have it done, and the entire interwebs says it's an easy thing to do.

I'm here to prove the interwebs wrong.

I ordered some spark plugs (NGK Iridiums to those interested), and a GearWrench spark plug socket, which I foolishly thought would fit our crappy ratchet set. It doesn't. I spent a few minutes looking at the socket end with the square hole, and then looking at the broken ratchet with the round peg, and wondering how I could get them to fit together. No ideas struck.

So my first step is to buy a ratchet set that will fit this 5/8 socket. Which one do I buy? Will any GearWrench ratchet in a set do the trick? Do I need one that's 5/8?
 
The socket is a 3/8" drive for a 5/8" spark plug. Buy a 3/8" ratchet wrench. I'd also buy an extension for ease.
 
IIRC a spark plug socket just means it's deep enough to fit the spark plug in and still make it to the nut type portion that you actually apply the torque to, so really nothing special when compared to a normal socket. If you have a ratchet with a round peg, I'd say you have very worn out ratchet. As long as the drive size (size of the peg) on the ratchet is the same as the square hole on the socket you're good to go.
 
Spark plug sockets have a rubber piece inside the socket that holds on to the spark plug for when you put it in and take it out. What year sentra is it.
 
I used to change plugs myself years ago when there seemed to be more room in the engine compartment but I tried changing them ONCE on my pickup truck and I am done with it. Have fun though, good to learn about your car but for me these days I can find better things to spend my time on. So when I do put it in the shop, it is not just to have the plugs changed, I'll have other work done too so it worth it to me for that time spent.
 
I have an associates degree in automotive technology and even I hate changing spark plugs haha. Of coarse I don't work as a mechanic anymore and haven't in years, but yep still hate it.

Any 3/8 ratchet will do, for the money I'd buy Stanely but that's just personal preference.

Try to change the spark plugs when the engine is cool, also start them back by hand. If you cross thread one, you will have BIG problems.
 
If/ when you try to take the boots off (thicker rubber connecting the plug wire to the plug) and it's stuck, don't yank on the wire itself. On my truck I've had instances in which Vise-Grip pliers were required to take the boots off- though that is definitely not recommended. Once you are able to remove and change the plugs, apply some dialectric grease to the top, above-the-white part of the plug. It'll help for next time you do this. The grease is available wherever plugs are sold and may also be called spark plug grease or similar. Good luck! Kyle
 
They make pliers specifically for removing spark plug boots. Get a pair or those if you can't get a firm grip on the boots with your fingers, as someone said earlier do not pull on the wires themselves.
 
Also, buy a tube of copper anti-sieze lubricant. Helps keep the plugs from corroding into the block. If you've got an air compressor (or even just a can of compressed air), once you remove the boot and "break" the plug loose, shoot some air down the hole BEFORE removing the plug. In essence trying to blow any dust/dirt out of the plug hole before it drops into the cylinder. ALWAYS check the gap on the plugs before you install them (you'll need a feeler gauge or spark plug gap tool - commonly available for about $5, if that). Gap all your new plugs before you get started, and put a thin coat of anti-sieze on the threads of the plugs.

As has been said, always start the plugs by hand -- and "by hand", I mean seat them in the spark plug socket, attach the extension if needed (most likely will be), and tighten hand-tight before you put the wrench on. It's really important once you start with the wrench that you make sure to keep it in line with the plug - it's easier than you might think to snap the ceramic top off, and then you've got a problem as well.

(For that reason, I always buy my plugs locally, in case I bust one I can run to the store and pick it up)

Depending on the layout of your engine compartment, you may need a couple extensions, and possibly a knuckle. Or, worst case, if it's a V-6 mounted sideways, you might have to loosen the engine mounts and 'rock' the engine forward to get at the back-side plugs.

Good luck!
 
Awesome, thanks for the tips everyone. I found a gapper at Walmart for $1.36, so even if I use it just once, it's money well spent.

Turvis, it's a 2002 model.

The plan is to do the deed on Saturday. I'll update you on how it went.
 
You should have coil on plug ignition on that car. So some of the things about spark plug wires don't apply.

Older cars have one coil (a coil is the part that steps up the cars battery voltage to the 20,000 plus volts needed to cause a spark) that feeds the high voltage to what is called a distributor. The distributor distributes the high voltage through spark plug wires in a specific sequence to each of the spark plugs.

You car, according to the googles, has coil on plug meaning there is no distributor, and there are 4 seperate coils. Each coil is attached directly to the spark plug and is held in place by a bolt or two. The coils have small wires to them that evenually lead to the computer. When you remove the bolt(s) the coil will lift off the plug, exposing the plug. You will need an extension as usually the hole is pretty deep. Typically, the spark plug hole is sealed by the coil housing by a rubber seal so it is unusual for dirt to be in the hole. Your best bet is to wipe or dust the top of the motor off before you start and you should be good to go. While you are in there, check each spark plug hole for oil. if there is oil in any of the holes, you will want to replace the valve cover gasket.

Part of the expense is the amount of disassembly involved to change the plugs...it can be worse, my wifes old V6 Camry was a royal PITA because the rear bank of cylinders was coverd by the intake manifold.
 
Good advice. Take heed on the not pulling the wires off by hand. Then again, at that many miles consider replacing the wires too?

A cheap ratchet set with extensions and maybe adapters and swivels are not terribly expensive. A nice ratchet is worth having if you plan on continuing to do these minor repairs yourself.

Remember, do not put side pressure on the ratchet when taking them out. Plugs can snap in half. Also, when installing, nice and snug is all they need to be. You can strip the threads by torquing too much.
 
Oh, and I always try and blow around each plug with compressed air, and have been forced to use a long straw to get anything loose out before taking the plugs out. Loose sand can fall in and scratch the cylinder walls.
 
Homercidal said:
Good advice. Take heed on the not pulling the wires off by hand. Then again, at that many miles consider replacing the wires too?

A cheap ratchet set with extensions and maybe adapters and swivels are not terribly expensive. A nice ratchet is worth having if you plan on continuing to do these minor repairs yourself.

Remember, do not put side pressure on the ratchet when taking them out. Plugs can snap in half. Also, when installing, nice and snug is all they need to be. You can strip the threads by torquing too much.

If you're gonna replace the plugs you might as well replace wires while you're in there. The last time I did plugs in my car half the wires snapped off anyway.

Change the air filter and cabin air filter. Both cheap to do but will cost a lot more @ a garage.

Give the hood latch and door hinges a shot of wd-40.
 
I was also thinking replacing the wires would be a good idea, but as the OP mentioned this is an intro didn't really bring it up. I've never done coil-on-plug. Is it different from distributors? Wolfstar's comment sounds like there are no plug wires.

I don't mean to confuse the thread- just clarifying for the general populous's good.

Good luck! Kyle
 
Coil on plug has no plug wires. Plugs are the only maintenance item unless you tear a boot. That engine has an aluminum head. Change the plugs cold.

My engines i work on don't use spark plugs but I used to work on cars a bit. If you work yourself into a corner send me a message.
 
Coil on plug has no plug wires. Plugs are the only maintenance item unless you tear a boot. That engine has an aluminum head. Change the plugs cold.

My engines i work on don't use spark plugs but I used to work on cars a bit. If you work yourself into a corner send me a message.

Right, there are no spark plug wires on most coil on plug ignitions.

Some, (some Toyota V6s for instance) have coil on plug for one bank of cylinders with a spark plug wire feeding a cylinder on the apposing bank.

According to the Googles, Early 2000 Sentras have one coil per cylinder, that attaches directly to the plug. So there are no spark plug wires.

For the record, I was a mechanic for many years, and still work on my own and (nice) freinds cars.

FYI, check out alldata.com for your vehicle. Alldata is what professional shops use for service, diagnostic, and technical service bullitens. It is a subscription, but it is well worth it.
 
Its been a while since I worked on an 02 model but get NGK spark plugs Nissan's don't like other brand plugs. If you are wondering how I know this I am a Nissan tech. Get the part number off the old plug and match it up with the new ones. You don't want to gap them they come pre gapped you and actually damage the plug.
 
The spark plugs are changed! Didn't get to it Saturday; the day was instead filled with an obstacle course run and chilling with friends.

On Sunday afternoon, I got the first two plugs changed. They came out easily and everything was straightforward. The third plug was kinda stuck, so I asked boyfriend to use his muscle. Turns out muscle didn't work, as the plug was seized. We got the 4th plug changed, but he had to help get the dang thing out.

Ran to the store and got some PB blaster and let it sit overnight. This morning, he was able to get the stubborn third plug out, and I got the new one installed. Started the car to make sure I didn't break anything, and she's running nicely.

Job complete! There are still a few more easy things to do, and one of these days I'll have to send her in for servicing, but I learned lots and saved a few dollars in the process. Win! :rockin:
 
On Sunday afternoon, I got the first two plugs changed. They came out easily and everything was straightforward. The third plug was kinda stuck, so I asked boyfriend to use his muscle. Turns out muscle didn't work, as the plug was seized. We got the 4th plug changed, but he had to help get the dang thing out.
And this is why the anti-seize lubricant is so important.
 
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