Tri-Clamp heatsticks

We finally finished our heatsticks and used them for the first time last weekend. We built one 120v 2000w, and one 240v 5500w. The 120v is just powered on/off with an inline switch. The 5500w is controlled with an Auber PID an SSR.
The most difficult part was getting the half couplers soldered into the endcaps.
We used 2" TC fittings from St Pats. The upper body is 1" stainless nipples and 90's.
Thanks to everyone who posts their projects, we took a little inspiration from many contributors. Thanks to PJ for posting his work. Were still working on a final design for the Home Brewery, but simplicity is leading us to a 3 tier gravity system and we may even end up boiling in our Stout 20G conical.

Looks very similar to the one that I made except I used 1/2" ss tubing and swagelok fittings for the rise and bend. Which part did you solder on, I am having trouble seeing it...

thelorax121 said:

Looks very similar to the one that I made except I used 1/2" ss tubing and swagelok fittings for the rise and bend. Which part did you solder on, I am having trouble seeing it...

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Can you post pictures of your design? I'm trying to build something like you both have built but haven't finalized the design yet. Also, show me how you attached the element to the tri-clover fitting or what ever you used?

I love my current heatsticks but I'm using the "pieces of a toilet" design at the moment which is no where near as cool.

BrooklynBrewClub said:

Can you post pictures of your design?

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+1. It seems fairly straighforward, but I'd like detailed shots. Did you pot the connections?

Me Likey! Here is mine, a forum member did the welding for me. I had a local machine shop tap a 2" Tri-Clover endcap for 1" NPS.

wyzazz said:

Me Likey! Here is mine, a forum member did the welding for me. I had a local machine shop tap a 2" Tri-Clover endcap for 1" NPS.

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I really like that idea Wyazz! Simple and should be cheaper than a full 2" tube. Less dispersion too!

stamandster said:

I really like that idea Wyazz! Simple and should be cheaper than a full 2" tube. Less dispersion too!

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I can't take credit for the design, it was all Airbalancer.

Sorry I can't pu up pics of my design, I am in Malaysia/ SE Asia for the next year+ so I don't have access to all my equiptment back in the states. It was a pretty simple design though.

I just took a 1.5" tri elbow connected to a 1" FNPS on one side and a 1'2" FNPT. The element screwed into the NPS fitting, extending horizontally from the elbow while the npt was oriented straight up. From here I just attached a 1/2" npt to compression fittiing that was attached to a length of 1/2" ss tubing. I put an elbow compression fitting about 22" up the tube to bend it over the side of the kettle, and the added a waterproof switch box (with a grounding nut) at the end to be able to shut off the heatstick immediately in case of boil overs etc.

I hope that explains somewhat, let me know if there is anything that I can clarify