Anyone tried this paint for brew rig?

I found some 2000F engine enamel:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/RUSTOLEUM-Engine-Enamel-4YKZ9

It's much higher temp than most the engine enamel I've heard people using before...does anyone have experience using this? It's only $5 a can, so I would like to use it on my up and coming brew rig if it holds up nicely.

Thanks for any advice

I used a similar item i found at a big box store, I used it on some heat shields and a 500 degree type for the rest of the frame.

Two batches this past saturday and everything looks great. I am sure it will degrade over time and use but so far it's holding up.

The high temp paints do pretty well if you follow the directions and go through the full curing procedure. OTOH, most will not hold up to exposure to direct flame and that is also usually stated on the can. IMO it's worth a shot and most of it will hold up just fine. IOW, where it doesn't hold up will be very localized and no big deal. I think of it as patina.

You can get that at Home Depot, probably Lowes and any similar. It would probably be cheaper there also though I have never looked at the price.

Yeah that's where I originally saw it. I think its just under $5 there. I'll try it out in the next need and see what results I get

I used this http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_FlameProof&153;-VHT-Paint_7141561-P_N3587_T%7CGRP2050_____

and cured it with a jet heater. I can't believe how well it has worked

That Rustoleum paint isn't going to hold up over time unless you can bake it. They rely on the heat the engine puts out to do this. Highly recommend reading the instructions. And you're going to need a LOT of it - trust me I went this route until a) my finger went numb and b) I figured out I had no way to bake it.

my local home depot only had the BBQ rustoleum, it's rated to 1200F. It's been working great for me, so the 2000F shouldn't be an issue. Just not direct flame of course, propane burns hotter than 2000F.

jcaudill said:

That Rustoleum paint isn't going to hold up over time unless you can bake it. They rely on the heat the engine puts out to do this. Highly recommend reading the instructions. And you're going to need a LOT of it - trust me I went this route until a) my finger went numb and b) I figured out I had no way to bake it.

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That's a good point... I just checked out the Tech Data Sheet on this stuff and although it doesn't directly say anything about it being a heat cured product its intended use is on an engine which is going to get very hot so maybe they felt it wasn't necessary to include that info. I've worked in the paint industry for a number of years and Rustoleums customer support people have always been helpful when I've had questions so it might be worth a phone call to see what they'd recommend.

The only other concern that I can see with this is that the TDS says that it is only available in flat which is going to mean that anything that gets stuck to it is probably going to be a pain to clean off. The glossier paint is, the easier its going to be to clean spills and what have you off of it.

http://www.rustoleumibg.com/images/tds/CBG_TDS_Auto_High_Heat_Aerosol.pdf

Also, Get yourself one of these, like jcaudill said.. your finger is gonna go numb for sure. These little guys are totally worth the minor investment. Most places that carry paint should have them.



http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-241526-Comfort-Grip-Pack/dp/B0015RJ41I

I've always had positive experiences with many different brands of high temp paint, but yes, it is absolutely positively critical to bake the finish for it to become resilient. If you don't, the paint will "burn" and turn chaulky the first time its temp resistance is put to the test. I have also had very good results with using cooking oil as a coating for steel. This is much trickier to get right, but if you have experience breaking in cast iron cookware, then you understand the process. In the end, an oil finish is much tougher and lasts longer than your lifetime, but I don't recommend it for most people because it is so difficult to do.

shafferpilot said:

I have also had very good results with using cooking oil as a coating for steel. This is much trickier to get right, but if you have experience breaking in cast iron cookware, then you understand the process. In the end, an oil finish is much tougher and lasts longer than your lifetime, but I don't recommend it for most people because it is so difficult to do.

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I really like this idea ... just like a wok or cast iron skillet ... care to share on your process? Anyone else out there try this?

dutchoven said:

I really like this idea ... just like a wok or cast iron skillet ... care to share on your process? Anyone else out there try this?

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grind/sand the scale, welding flux, rust off. Use acetylene torch to heat the piece uniformly. Apply oil... I know, that's like when a car repair manual says to "remove" a part with 4 brackets and 5 hidden bolts. Anyways, here's some rules to follow: This is an extremely smokey process; Build up thin layers; a natural bristle paint brush works; spraying works better; dipping will not work and will make the steel brittle; if it catches on fire a bit, don't worry; if it is too hot to accept any oil it will burn the oil off and look dry and chalky, if it is too cold to accept the oil it will run down the piece; when it is just right it will get black and slightly shiny; anywhere the oil can pool up will not get coated, but will be quite sticky; practice on scrap first; caution extremely hot!

Anyone else who has done this have any other pointers?