The Pol
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No problem.
No Chill Results Thread - Post your good or bad notes here.
- Thread starter BargainFittings
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
No problem.
I think I already covered all the details on this in the other thread, but:
1. 2.5 gallon batch using 3# pilsner, 1# each munich and vienna, 0.5# wheat, 0.5# sugar added during fermentation
yeast was WLP566 (Saison II) fresh vial, made a 1L starter
2. container was HDPE bucket and lid, sealed
3. About 5 minutes or so boiling to transfer, overnight in bucket before I pitched in the morning
4. Pitched around 72F
5. Used a sterilized whisk to vigorously stir the wort for several minutes just before pitching. Same method I have used previously with no problems.
6. Fermentation was in the 70's and up to mid 80's for a couple of weeks before racking to secondary for one more week at room temps, around 80 or so
Ketchepillar
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What are these cubes you all speak of? Link porfa.
The Pol
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This is what I use... and ferment in.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/va...ory_name=25&product_id=13648&variant_id=75032
garretto
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http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...=usplastic&category_name=15039&product_id=605
this is what I use. I dont ferment in it tho.
this is what I use. I dont ferment in it tho.
I did research and found people that were using it in the 80's and 90's with good results, which is why I went with the temp profile I did. It is possible I got it too hot, though.
Right, I know that. If you look on their website you'll see comments from people who have successfully used it up through the 90's.
This is precisely why I dont beleive what I read on the interwebz
I know what you mean. People keep claiming that no-chill brewing works!
The Pol
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I know what you mean. People keep claiming that no-chill brewing works!
Like I said, I am convinced it doesnt. I think people need to figure it out for themselves.
1st let me say that I am a no chill brewer. I've been no-chilling for 8+ batches and been really digging the time & water savings.. but.. I have a question that keeps bouncing around in my head..
I mostly use pellet hops. I DONT bag or filter my hops, I put them straight into the kettle. When I transfer the hot wort from my kettle to my 1/6th barrel Sanke to No-Chill, its inevitable that a bunch of hops go with the wort into the Sanke to join my "cube hops". After the wort is cool (24hrs or so) I dump the sanke into my fermenting bucket - and yes - the hops from the cube & the boil end up in the fermenter.
Getting to the question: We've all heard tale of the "vegital/grassy" flavors that can come from dry-hopping for too long, and to be honest, I've tasted some of what I would call "vegital/grassy" flavors in my no-chill beers. Because the boil hops, cube & dry hops end up in the fermenter, is this the same as an extremely long dry hop in terms of this flavor? Could this be where this grassyness comes from?
If the answer is "you should bag your hops in the boil & remove them at the end of boil", then I'm confused about the 10 & 5 min additions - should a 5 min addition only be in the wort for the last 5 minutes & then removed, like a quick hop tea? What about the cube hops? Do you bag those and remove them when trasferring to the fermenter?
Thanks for any light you can shed on this!
I mostly use pellet hops. I DONT bag or filter my hops, I put them straight into the kettle. When I transfer the hot wort from my kettle to my 1/6th barrel Sanke to No-Chill, its inevitable that a bunch of hops go with the wort into the Sanke to join my "cube hops". After the wort is cool (24hrs or so) I dump the sanke into my fermenting bucket - and yes - the hops from the cube & the boil end up in the fermenter.
Getting to the question: We've all heard tale of the "vegital/grassy" flavors that can come from dry-hopping for too long, and to be honest, I've tasted some of what I would call "vegital/grassy" flavors in my no-chill beers. Because the boil hops, cube & dry hops end up in the fermenter, is this the same as an extremely long dry hop in terms of this flavor? Could this be where this grassyness comes from?
If the answer is "you should bag your hops in the boil & remove them at the end of boil", then I'm confused about the 10 & 5 min additions - should a 5 min addition only be in the wort for the last 5 minutes & then removed, like a quick hop tea? What about the cube hops? Do you bag those and remove them when trasferring to the fermenter?
Thanks for any light you can shed on this!
McCuckerson
Well-Known Member
JKnapp, this is strange not only are you scorching wort like me, you have the same hop/no-chill concerns I do! Anyway, I have been no-chilling for about 2yrs. For me, everything goes into the fermentor like you are describing. Beers with very light grain bills have a broccoli scent. Its super slight, but its there; SWMBO says I am nuts. I have been extremely disappointed with the late hop additions in the cube. There is NO WAY that a chilled 20min cascade addition tastes the same as a cube hop no chill. I am calling shananagans on the no-chill late hop additions. In my opinion no-chill should be used as a situation technique rather than a MO. I made an IPA per the hop chart circulating this DB and it did not have the nose or the flavor, but it was a hop bomb. Figures huh?
Jknapp,
I ferment w/ the total hop volume and don't observe the vegetal or grassy flavors...how long do you keep the beer on the hops in the fermenter. I usually only do about ten days??? Thanks, Mike
