Uni-Strut Brutus 20 Build

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HDIr0n

HDIr0n

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2010
Messages
543
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Location
Missouri City
I am tearing apart my previous weldless failure, and changing the format to a Brutus 20 ish setup. I have a Bottom draining MLT, that has a false bottom and I am going to use a BIAB to speed cleanup. I am going to incorporate my 50' IC for my HERMS coil and use my Auber Ins. PID to keep my mash temp, and hopefully be able to step mash. I am for the mean time going to keep using my IC to chill, I do have 20' of 1/2" O.D. copper waiting for me to turn it into a CFC. Once I do I will still keep using my IC as my HERMS coil. I have a Stainless Brewing hop spider that I can't wait to use. The only major things I have still on order are 2x 12v Pumps, and my casters for the stand. Anyways here are the pics.

Here I am getting the final layout


Untitled by HDIr0n, on Flickr

Another view


Untitled by HDIr0n, on Flickr
 
Here is how the gas line is run along with the honeywell standing pilot valve, the regulator and hose are hanging down in the pic and didn't notice them while I was taking the pic.


P1000310 by HDIr0n, on Flickr

Here is the rig almost complete, just waiting on the pumps on the row boat from China.


P1000307 by HDIr0n, on Flickr
 
I got my pumps in 2x Topsflow TS5 PV15 pumps, I will move my March pump back to my toolbox for random pumping as needed, and in case one of the TS5's die.

I also got in 2x 3 way ball valves T type from Dudadiesel so I can just switch my flow and not have to disconnect and reconnect my hoses.


Untitled by HDIr0n, on Flickr

Other things I am still waiting to do,

I plan on getting a slightly smaller thermowell for my HLT/BK so I can easily remove my immersion chiller.

A "floor" for the bottom of my stand to store things when not in use, I am not sure how I am going to do this yet.

A small hoist to lift the grain bag out of the MLT so I can clean it and use it as a whirlpool/hopback.
 
bucfanmike said:
what length are your cross braces? Im deciding between 12" and 13" on mine
Click to expand...

If I think I know what you are referring to (the horizontal pieces(x7) that determine the depth of the stand) they are 12". I liked how they looked and supported the keggles. Going with 13" didn't look like a good idea to me as it was less frame holding up the keggles.

-G
 
Now that I am basically done with my stand (operationally speaking) I am hoping to brew this weekend. I will take some "action" shots when I brew.

-G
 
I am changing some things up in my setup. I am going to be running RIMS, I have most of the parts ordered for that.

Also my cam locks are driving me bonkers. They should all be interchangeable, but they aren't. So I am getting rid of them and going with the Kent disconnects from bargain fittings http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.phproute=product/category&path=51_66

This is until I can afford the $500 to go all tri-clover, unless I really like the Kent fittings. I also got some new clear silicone tubing from brewhardware. I will update in a few weeks when I am home.

-G
 
I finally brewed with my newest setup Brutus 2.0 with RIMS tube, and new disconnects. I became frustrated with my camlocks as they all weren't interchangeable so I went with the kent polysulfone connections. The verdict is still out on them whether I am going to keep them or do something else. My brew day was a disaster. My MLT thermometer decided to leak after 2 years of it being leak free, this was after I had heated up all my liquor in my MLT with my RIMS tube. So I had to remove all the water and insulation around the MLT and make sure it was leak free after several hours and reheat the liquor. I made a session Oatmeal Stout, which the first mistake was that I put the oatmeal in with all my grains at the LHBS. Second mistake is that when I went to pour in the grains I forgot to mill them so I recovered the pound or two that I poured into the MLT before I remembered that I didn't mill them. So I ended up trying to wet milling after mixing all the grains together which is a gummy mess. I have malt conditioned before with little problems, but never this wet and with oatmeal in the grist. After I finally got all the grain milled after cleaning the mill about 5 times my brewday went very smoothly. Anyways here are some pics of my setup on brewday.

-G
 
i have to say i really enjoyed this build as i am in the planing stages of an eBIAB set up that could be turned into an eBrutus 20 since i have two kegs at my disposal. the question i have is what kind of an advantage does this set up have over a straight eBIAB setup?
 
It mostly depends on what size batches you want to do. From what I understand to do BIAB in one vessel you need to double your batch size for the size of your kettle (i.e. 10g batch 20g kettle). I have the flexibility to do just a straight BIAB, do the cross recirculation sparge, or even drain my runnings into another vessel and fly or batch sparge. It just all depends on what you want to get out if it, and how much effort you are willing to put into brew day.

-G
 
I have played around with different burners, I am trying out a 2 ring burner right now. I am trying to see what will give me the most efficiency with the desired boil, I think the 10" banjo's were just too big and I couldn't dial them down enough for what I needed. I am trying the 6" bayou burner to see if that is what I like. I have had the 10 jet burner on my system and I have liked that, except you can't turn it down much as you will get very yellow
flames. Even more than the 6" burners that I have pics of, I will try to get some pics of the jet burners for comparison.

-G
 
One thing with all of the banjo style burners is you need to adjust the air shutter pretty much any time you adjust the gas valve. You want to adjust it so you get a blue in blue flame with no yellow. Oddly enough you need to close the shutter as you increase the amount of gas.
 
lgxg said:
Where did you get that huge can lock for the rims tube element?
Click to expand...

I went to murrayequipment.com, they use to have a webpage with all their pipe fittings.

http://www.murrayequipment.com/images/pdf/meicatalog2014.pdf

go to page 53 or so that should get you what you want.

I have moved away from the aluminum camlocks, my water here is horrible and the corrosion I saw was amazing. I switched to tri-clovers from brewershardware.com and I really like them. They are about the same cost as stainless camlocks of that size.

-G
 
I have ran boiling wort through them every brew day for about 15 min once I have reached a boil. I then leave them off until the boil is over. Then I will whirlpool for about 30 min and then shut them off, for the hot break to settle and I am ready to chill. Then I will pump to the fermenter through my plate chiller.
 
tracyk said:
Nice setup HDIrOn! You are from my old stomping grounds where I grew up in Mo City. I now live about an hour farther south in Wild Peach.

I also use the 12V pumps on the rig that I am setting up and have not had any problems.
Click to expand...

Thanks man, are there any home brew clubs down that way? I am a part of the Sugarland Imperialists, it's a good little group.
 

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