15.5 Gallon Cornelius Ball Lock Kegs

I have several 1/2 barrel kegs lying around, and I want to try to convert one into a corneluis keg. They are almost the same height as a corny keg, so I think the dip tube should work, and the in/out posts shouldn't be a problem.
As for the lid... there is no way I can fabricate the lip that the lids o-ring seats against, so I will most likely rob the entire top off of a cornelius keg and weld that into the 1/2 barrel keg top using a sanitary weld. Does this sound feasible?
I would love to know if this has been done/tried before, and any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

PM YuriRage. he has already done this. Or the reverse of it.

If you can weld stainless just cut out around the outside of the lid portal and reweld that to the top of the sanke.

Or just cut the whole top of the corny off and weld that to the top

15 psi is pretty low pressure....so as long as you know how to move that puddle along the seam correctly....you should be fine. I wouldn't trust my welding skills with any confidence.....lol. I would also think that you'd have to worry about tiny crevaces where bacteria could multiply on the inside of the keg.

I don't weld... once, along time ago, I touched the ground connection while welding floorpans on my bug, and caught the arc. It practically melted my fillings... so my friend, who is a superb blacksmith, will handle those duties. He constructed a refracting still for me a few years ago and did a nice job welding the stainless on that. I asked him if he does a "sanitary weld", and he said you just have to keep it from oxidizing by pumping in argon, and then polish the seam so it isn't as porous. Does this sound correct.
Thanks for all your replies.

Ya, I work in the sanitary piping industry (draftsman), and I believe you're right about the argon.

What i'm talking about is that it may be difficult to get the hole cut perfectly...matching the corney. I'm sure you'll be fine, just watch crevaces on the inside. Good luck! I'm sure it will turn out great.

I once proposed a project such as this to an experienced welder/homebrewer who said its a very hard weld and that he preferred not to do it.

Personally, I think It would be a lot easier for you to just buy one of the sanke snap rings and use the keg with its current valve system in place. If you have a carboy brush and some PBW, you can clean it just fine, use a telescoping mirror to check if you worry about cleanliness. I use 1/6 barrel sankes as secondaries all the time.

RecklessDeck said:

I think It would be a lot easier for you to just buy one of the sanke snap rings and use the keg with its current valve system in place.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I think that would be easier than welding, but I would still have to buy or fabricate some specialty tools and/or equipment.
Using those snap rings was my initial thought, and even rigging a washer/filler out of a coupler and some garden hose fittings ... I never really scrub the inside of my corny kegs anyway, I just soak in pwb and hot water for 2 days and rinse and flush the lines with CO2 or compressed air... Seems like that would be adequate for a 1/2 barrel keg too.

Check out this company - they sell a bunch of specialty tools for just this sort of thing - St. Patricks of Texas
Click the link and Go to ---->Beer equipment--->Keg Tools

Eh....The spiral rings are easy as can be to remove/install if you have a a small flat-head and wrench around. On top of that, the ears of the snap rings can block the coupler.

Check out my sig on how to install the spiral ring, step-by-step.

ClutchDude said:

Eh....The spiral rings are easy as can be to remove/install if you have a a small flat-head and wrench around.

Check out my sig on how to install the spiral ring, step-by-step.

Click to expand...

It does seem fairly easy... Thanks for step by step.
Apparently many people exclusively use the sankey for homebrew...
I just never knew how simple it was to disassemble/reassemble...

I'm gonna give it a try... I will post results. Thanks.

Keg Tap Coupler - D System, Red

and a couple of MFL fittings and some hose, and you're good to go.

B