MLT Manifold?? Help me!

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BrewTaster

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So currently my plan is to make a CPVC manifold for my MLT, but have a multitude of questions/concerns. Any of you who can help me, I will greatly appreciate all your comments!!

First of all, if I were to continue with my plastic manifold, what size tube do I use? If i go ahead with a plastic tube manifold, what size holes do I drill in it, and where and in what pattern? My thoughts at the moment are 3/16 with at least 3 rows offset by 1/2 inch each.


Now, If I were to go with copper, why would it be worth doing so, and where/how would I do the holes? Ive heard of drilling and sawing the copper though sawing is much more common.


Anyways, I am completely lost and could use any advice you guys have!!

Cheers :mug:
 
I used the PVC in 1/2 diameter. I drilled 1/8 holes as evenly as I could all over the bottom of all the tubes and fittings.

Main reason for me is that the PVC is only a fraction the cost of the copper. You could build and test 5 different PVC designs for the cost of one copper design. Ultimately I think the copper might be better but I can't think of an actual reason why.

Linc
 
I used copper, but CPVC is fine.

As far as a cutting design, I used a hack saw and cut as many slits as I could

Never a stuck sparge and pretty consistent (75-78%) efficiency.

Make sure the holes/slits are on the underneath or it will clog for sure.

Manifold_Unfiltered.JPG
 
I used copper, but CPVC is fine.

As far as a cutting design, I used a hack saw and cut as many slits as I could

Never a stuck sparge and pretty consistent (75-78%) efficiency.

Make sure the holes/slits are on the underneath or it will clog for sure.

View attachment 8831


Could you do a hacksaw with the CPVC? And is it ok to have the drain pipe up above the mani like that? Do you start a siphon, then use the valve to turn off and on from there? Finally do the slits have to be on the bottom 1/2 or bottom 1/4? is there a general rule??

Thanks for your help guys, keep the feedback coming!
 
the only positive I can think of with copper over cpvc is that cpvc can float if you get air into it.

you can use anything on cpvc: hacksaw, dremmel, file, drill

You can run the pipe over the manifold like that, the only drawback being you may bang it around while stirring.
 
I used a jig saw and a jig to cut slits in my copper manifold.

IMG_15541.JPG


I also set it up so the drain line was underneath the manifold in order to minimize dead space in my MLT

IMG_15591.JPG
 
oh, and if you use copper, don't solder it together. Don't glue cpvc. You will like being able to break it down into parts and soak it and then scrub it with a pipe cleaning brush. It's so much easier!
 
I went with copper instead of CPVC because who wants more plastic in their diet?? :)

Did anybody have problems with burrs on the copper? I used a bandsaw to cut the slits and they are pretty narrow. This created a lot of burring. There was a lot to file down on the outside and I managed to get most of it off the inside. The first time I soaked the manifold in hot water a lot of little copper bits like grains of sand were left behind. There are still a number of burrs inside some of the slits. I'm a little worried to use this going forward because I don't want this stuff to be carried forward into the final product.

I guess my first option is to saw the slits with a bigger blade and see what happens... Any thoughts?
 
...There are still a number of burrs inside some of the slits. I'm a little worried to use this going forward because I don't want this stuff to be carried forward into the final product.

I guess my first option is to saw the slits with a bigger blade and see what happens... Any thoughts?
They'll be fine. Give the pipes a good whack against concrete or something. Any residual finings will certainly sink to the bottom of the boil kettle, the bottom of the fermenter, the bottom of the secondary or the bottom of your kegs.

I had none.
 
just file as best as you can and then use them. A couple of uses (I take mine apart and use a long thin brush to clean the inside) and you'll notice they are gone.
 
I also set it up so the drain line was underneath the manifold in order to minimize dead space in my MLT

Actually, by running the drain line underneath, you've increased the deadspace. The fluid will only siphon down to the highest point where air can enter the system and break the siphon and when you ran your hose under the manifold, you raised that point up to accomodate your tubing.
 
Actually, by running the drain line underneath, you've increased the deadspace. The fluid will only siphon down to the highest point where air can enter the system and break the siphon and when you ran your hose under the manifold, you raised that point up to accomodate your tubing.

Not in my case. My manifold rests flat against the bottom of my MLT even with the tubing running underneath it. The tubing resides in a shallow drain channel on the bottom of the MLT so it doesn't raise the manifold off the bottom. In addition, the tubing has a few slits cut in it to allow for nearly complete draining of the MLT. I've done a number of hydrotests with the copper manifold in place and the volume of liquid which fails to drain from the MLT is 45 mL or 0.012 gallons.
 
Not in my case. My manifold rests flat against the bottom of my MLT even with the tubing running underneath it. The tubing resides in a shallow drain channel on the bottom of the MLT so it doesn't raise the manifold off the bottom. In addition, the tubing has a few slits cut in it to allow for nearly complete draining of the MLT. I've done a number of hydrotests with the copper manifold in place and the volume of liquid which fails to drain from the MLT is 45 mL or 0.012 gallons.

I shouldn't have assumed it was in a flat bottomed cooler. For your type of installation that is the best way to drain.
 
Just a quick note, I did end up going with the copper and am now working on all the slots. Just wanted to say that I absolutly hate hacksaws! Pics to follow!

:mug:
 
Just a quick note, I did end up going with the copper and am now working on all the slots. Just wanted to say that I absolutly hate hacksaws! Pics to follow!

:mug:

Did you check out my thread? If you have a jig saw you could make a jig and it would be MUCH easier than using a hack saw.
 
Did you check out my thread? If you have a jig saw you could make a jig and it would be MUCH easier than using a hack saw.

No jig saw unfortunatly. Gonna see if I can get a friend to bring one over sometime soon though. Ive given up for the night, but im in no rush. Exams are over and now I have time to tinker. On the bright note, my bulkhead I pieced together is holding water phenomanally (no leaks whatsoever), and my cooler holds hot water at the same temp for an hour with no change in temperature.

Can't wait to get my hands on a crusher and some grains and try this sucker out!!
 
I used a dremel. If you have one of those, get a pack of cutting discs and go to town!
 
Thanks for the assurances about the copper - it worked great.

Make sure to calibrate your thermometer, and go with an initial water to grain ratio of 1 - 1.25 qt/lb to start off with. For batch sparging I would also let it sit for a few minutes to soak up as much of the sweet stuff as possible.

My wife broke my hydrometer on accident during the mash so I was flying blind on the second batch of AG - bah!
 
cutting slits in copper is far easier. You would be hard pressed to keep a drill bit in one spot on the copper. Drill bits are a little pricey compared to cheap jig saw blades.
I have drilled copper before but I have a pretty nice drill press and a good solid vice.
If you have a band saw you can cut some pretty tiny slits too. The metal cutting band I have for mine is .025 thick.
 
Just to add to the discussion... About a month ago I made a 5 gal MLT out of a Gott cooler and used CPVC. It worked well, I used a dremel to do the slits, and didn't glue any joints. I use gravity and would get good siphon action to drain it very nearly empty. It looks like this:

1b9149c8f732868857cc772efc85768c.png

f5c0ad2d3bcc4b9fe59ed9f61ab958ad.png

5d652ddf3f0338acb8bf61506284cd10.png


I realized 5 gallon is a bit too small for a lot of beers and started making a 10 gal MLT last night. I decided to use copper this time to get less dead space in the botton. The CPVC fittings have thicker walls, and raise the tubing off the bottom more. Plus, I like the look of it a little better ::smiley face ... darn 4 image limit ::. I still need to clean off some labels from the fittings and cut the slits, but my 10 gal MLT manifold looks like this... the Biermuncher design a little bigger... I wanted to maximize my 'surface area'...

44664dec4f2247a463bbdfac86539c55.png
 
I drilled my sparge return manifold easily enough buying a pack of the cheapest and smallest bits available. If the copper is held still, it's not really that hard to drill it if you are handy with a multi-speed drill to get started then increase speed.
 
Just to add to the discussion... About a month ago I made a 5 gal MLT out of a Gott cooler and used CPVC. It worked well, I used a dremel to do the slits, and didn't glue any joints. I use gravity and would get good siphon action to drain it very nearly empty. It looks like this:

1b9149c8f732868857cc772efc85768c.png

f5c0ad2d3bcc4b9fe59ed9f61ab958ad.png

5d652ddf3f0338acb8bf61506284cd10.png


I realized 5 gallon is a bit too small for a lot of beers and started making a 10 gal MLT last night. I decided to use copper this time to get less dead space in the botton. The CPVC fittings have thicker walls, and raise the tubing off the bottom more. Plus, I like the look of it a little better ::smiley face ... darn 4 image limit ::. I still need to clean off some labels from the fittings and cut the slits, but my 10 gal MLT manifold looks like this... the Biermuncher design a little bigger... I wanted to maximize my 'surface area'...

44664dec4f2247a463bbdfac86539c55.png

I am getting ready to do the same thing you did with your 10 gallon mtl with copper. I have one question.... How did you connect the drain tube (tube connecting to bulk head) to the bulk head? It looks as if you used a nut of some sort. I wish I could just get a parts list together and go buy all the stuff
 
Sorry, just saw this. It's just a standard 1/2" copper male NPT fitting. You should be able to find one at any local plumbing/home improvement store for about 75 cents. I just wrapped the threads in some teflon tape and screwed it in to a cooler bulkhead fitting from northern brewer. You can get bulkhead fittings for a good price at Bargain Fittings. I have trouble finding some of the components a local shops... and they give you funny looks when you describe what you're trying to do.
 
mine is just copper tube with a short section of vinyl tube stretched over it, then jammed into the inside of the bulkhead fitting (mine is cheap plastic bucket bulkhead, $2). It doesn't need to be water or air tight, just to make it easy for the flow to get through the manifold and out the spigot. :)

Once you build and use one, you will have a Eureka moment and understand what it's doing and then any future ones are easier. Hrm, with that in mind, maybe rigging something up with cpvc is preferable for a first go.
 
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