Making 11% alcohol beer.. wine or beer yeast?

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cell

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I'm making a high gravity beer, around 11% alcohol. I read from the book "Homebrewing for dummies" that after 8-9% I need wine or champagne yeast. I was planning to use Nottingham yeast, but now I'm backing up a little..I'm more concerned about the final taste since I have no experience with wine yeast. What should I do?

Pitch Nottingham in primary, wait 1 month. Then pitch wine yeast in secondary?
 
White Labs 099 can handle up to 25%. I've never tried it though. I'd stick to an ale yeast. There are plenty liquid yeasts that can ferment and tolerate high alcohol levels.
 
Super High Gravity Ale

WLP099 Super High Gravity Ale Yeast
Can ferment up to 25% alcohol. From England. Produces ester character that increases with increasing gravity. Malt character dominates at lower gravities.
Attenuation: >80%
Flocculation: Medium
Optimum Fermentation Temperature: 65-69°F
Alcohol Tolerance: Very High
MiniFerment data:
What is MiniFerment? White Labs yeast strains were tested using the same wort in its proprietary MiniFerment process. The process simulates large-scale brewing. To learn more about MiniFerment click here. To learn more about understanding the data, click here.
As-is DiacetylTotal DiacetylAs-is 2,3-PentanedioneTotal 2,3-PentanedioneEthanolAcetaldehydeEthyl AcetateIsoamyl Acetate1-PropanolIsoamyl Alcohol32.97ppb56ppb6.77ppb14.23ppb5.64%ABV14.65ppm37.45ppm9.88ppm39.14ppm222.72ppm
Fermentation temperature: 68° F
Attenuation: 90%
Hours to get to 50 percent attenuation: 32 hours




http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/strains_wlp099.html
 
You should do more reading on the subject, I'd recommend Randy Mosher's Radical Brewing. It will take way more than a month to make an 11% beer. Think more like 6-8 months, grain to glass.
 
yeah even WLP001 can go that i high i bleave

and WPL060 could be a neat choice too because its a blend
 
Hi grav trappist yeasts are what I try to use when making these beers, wyeast3739 will be the next I try. With 12% alcohol tolerance and the right ester and phenol profile I think it will work nicely. Remember, the yeast only works well when suspended. Stir often.
I suggest trying lower gravity recipes to get your process down before attempting something this big. Big beers are not as simple as dropping the yeast and walking away.
 
Safale S-05 can handle it, no problem.

I recently made a big IIPA that started at 1.100 and finished at 1.015 (11.3% abv), I used some corn sugar and mashed low to get as much fermentables as possible. Then I used two rehydrated 11.5g packages of S-05 and aerated well. It fermented out really fast, and I was drinking it at about five weeks old. It is a little older now, but still delicious.
 
I don't know how high Nottingham can go but US-05 can handle up to 14% ABV. Plan on pitching three rehydrated packs of US-05, and you will have no problem busting through an 11% beer with good attenuation. Just be sure to install a blowoff tube because you will need it!
 
If you are going to use the super high gravity from white labs then i would use whatever strain you were going to use (us05, notty, cali, etc) then once it runs it's course then pitch starter of high gravity yeast. by itself it isn't very tasty IMO
 
Nottingham or US-05, and pitch at least 2 if not three packages (rehydrated). I just did a 1.095 Russian Imperial Stout with 2 packages of Nottingham and it got down to 1.020 in less than two weeks (about 9% ABV). I figure it will be ready to drink next summer for my oldest son's 21st :ban:
 
Pitch two rehydrated packs, make sure to attach a blow off tube (you will need it) and consider temperature control measures. My big beers always want to push the fermentation temp way out of range and require a cool water bath.
 
Safale S-05 can handle it, no problem.

I recently made a big IIPA that started at 1.100 and finished at 1.015 (11.3% abv), I used some corn sugar and mashed low to get as much fermentables as possible. Then I used two rehydrated 11.5g packages of S-05 and aerated well. It fermented out really fast, and I was drinking it at about five weeks old. It is a little older now, but still delicious.

same here. Just did a IIPA that started 1.100 and finished about the same. I didnt rehydrate or anything, but I used 3 packets of S-05. Tastes great:mug:
 
WHY ? , if you are asking advice , what is your resoning here?
IMO, liquid yeast is expensive for a very occasional brewer like me; I can't reuse the yeast cake. Once I go all grain, I'll probably reconsider my decision.

Use Nottingham. Wait for the SG to stabilize. Taste test. If the beer is still too sweet, pitch champagne yeast.
I went to my LHBS and I bought a pack of Safbrew S-33. It's supposed to withstand up to 11.5% alcohol (says good for trappist ale)... I'll try that, if it doesn't work, I'll go with the wine yeast. However the lady from my LHBS told be wine yeast will give a very dry taste to the beer, just like wine! I'm not sure how.. I'll try that as a very last resort then!
 
IMO, liquid yeast is expensive for a very occasional brewer like me; I can't reuse the yeast cake. Once I go all grain, I'll probably reconsider my decision.


I went to my LHBS and I bought a pack of Safbrew S-33. It's supposed to withstand up to 11.5% alcohol (says good for trappist ale)... I'll try that, if it doesn't work, I'll go with the wine yeast. However the lady from my LHBS told be wine yeast will give a very dry taste to the beer, just like wine! I'm not sure how.. I'll try that as a very last resort then!

I'd pitch 2 packs in this beer if you want it to fully attenuate.
 
ANY yeast can handle 11%. I believe Jamil claims any yeast can handle 15%. Pitch the proper amount of HEALTHY viable yeast, control your ferment temp, oxygenate well, use yeast nutrient, rouse the yeast several times during fermentation, ramp your temperature up a few degrees for the last 10-15% of attenuation. It will get there.
 
Have you(OP) ever tasted an 11% beer. The problem is that when you get above 10% the beer better be very well formulated or you begin to get (HOT) flavor or noticable alcohol. Fine if thats what your into but most recipe's will seem very dry that high. This has been my experience as judged by my pallete. Others may be able to guide you better.
 
My WLP007 pooped out at 11.6% on a Barley Wine. S.G. 1.130 so far it has made it to 1.040. Only a 1 gal. starter with 1 lb DME used with a stir plate.
 
I'm making a high gravity beer, around 11% alcohol. I read from the book "Homebrewing for dummies" that after 8-9% I need wine or champagne yeast. I was planning to use Nottingham yeast, but now I'm backing up a little..I'm more concerned about the final taste since I have no experience with wine yeast. What should I do?

Pitch Nottingham in primary, wait 1 month. Then pitch wine yeast in secondary?

What kind of beer are you brewing? Unless you want to brew a belgian strong, I'd stay away from the super high gravity strain. If you're brewing a barleywine or something of the sort, I can't recommend enough Wyeast 1728 Scottish Ale yeast. I know you said you don't want to mess with liquid yeast, but what is 8 bucks compared to the cost of the malt and hops for an 11% beer? Anyhow, I recommend that strain for it's great malty flavor profile and superb alcohol tolerance. Just make a starter to bump your yeast count a bit and this one will take you 12% abv no problem with fantastic attenuation.

Here's a link to the strain in question.
Wyeast 1728

EDIT: Sorry, when I was mentionning the super high gravity strain, I had the trappist high gravity ale from wyeast in mind (3787 I believe). I don't know anything about WLP099.
 
If you're looking for dry yeast, you could try some distillers yeast. My LHBS sells it for $5.55 and it's rated at 20%ABV ...although I'm not sure what off flavors these yeasts produce...
 
there are a ton of beer yeasts that will do 11% I think the us-05/WY1056/WLP001 will

WLP007 is a monster and will do that easy, I make a 12.6% beer with it. Won't be drinking it for a while as it still has the ol' alcohol warmth to it.

Just oxygenate, give a list yeast nutrient and pitch the proper amount.
 
I'm gonna rack my Barley Wine onto a WLP001 yeast cake left from a pale ale I made. I am going to see if it will go down a little more from 1.040.
White Labs says that the WLP001 is more tolerant than the WLP007. The key is to start with a whole bunch of yeast.
I have heard bad things about the WLP099 Super High Gravity so I am staying away from it.
 
pacman took my barleywine from 1.130 to 1.032 for 12.8 percent so it can be done. I am just wondering what I should do now that it is in secondary. Do I need to pitch more yeast to condition?
 
I have heard bad things about the WLP099 Super High Gravity so I am staying away from it.

People always say that but I think it has to be user error as this yeast was used to make one of the most highly regarded beers ever made (no, not dark lord).
 
pacman took my barleywine from 1.130 to 1.032 for 12.8 percent so it can be done. I am just wondering what I should do now that it is in secondary. Do I need to pitch more yeast to condition?


How old is your barleywine? I would think if it's older than six months pitching some dry yeast wouldn't be a bad idea when your bottling. I have a pacman barleywine that is rotated back and forth on one of our taps (the wife and I can't drink a 13.5% beer constantly) and I really like it to have very little carbonation. So I would recommend using very little priming sugar.
 
Greetings,

I just did my first batch of IIPA and it had a starting gravity higher than 1.100 and I used 2 packs of WY 1056 American Ale without a starter. I just checked it yesterday after being in primary for two weeks at 66 degrees and it's averaging one bubble every 2 minutes and it came back at 1.023 So the WY 1056 was able to handle it, but would I go this route again, probably not. I would suggest using a starter to insure that you have the proper amount of yeast for your batch, and try to keep it around 10% ABV. Someone eluded to high alcohol beers as coming out hot and I will say that is what appears to be the case with mine. I tried the tester and the potential is there, I just wont be able to find out until early November on just how this batched turns out.
 
I'm gonna rack my Barley Wine onto a WLP001 yeast cake left from a pale ale I made. I am going to see if it will go down a little more from 1.040.
White Labs says that the WLP001 is more tolerant than the WLP007. The key is to start with a whole bunch of yeast.

Racked the barley wine onto the WLP001 yeast cake and nothing. That's all she wrote.
 
How old is your barleywine? I would think if it's older than six months pitching some dry yeast wouldn't be a bad idea when your bottling. I have a pacman barleywine that is rotated back and forth on one of our taps (the wife and I can't drink a 13.5% beer constantly) and I really like it to have very little carbonation. So I would recommend using very little priming sugar.

Oh trust me, I plan on only 2 volumes of co2 :D
 
[quote/]I went to my LHBS and I bought a pack of Safbrew S-33. It's supposed to withstand up to 11.5% alcohol (says good for trappist ale)... I'll try that, if it doesn't work, I'll go with the wine yeast. However the lady from my LHBS told be wine yeast will give a very dry taste to the beer, just like wine! I'm not sure how.. I'll try that as a very last resort then![/quote]


wine yeast will not dry out beer, this includes champagne yeast. Maltotriose (trisaccharide (three-part sugar) consisting of three glucose molecules linked with α-1,4 glycosidic bonds, that is in beer,but not in wine) is not fermentable by wine yeast. If you are really interesting wine yeast and brewing check out the brewing network episode with shea comfort.

I fermented a 1083 wort down to 1030 using red wine yeast. I planned for it to poop out. I'm pitching Brett in the wort to finish it off. I wanted residuals for the brett, but I was surprised at how much there were.
 
For what it's worth, I'm using Wyeast 1272 in this beer. I'm over 12% now (somewhere below 1.026) and it is winding down. Wyeast's website says it will only go to 10% (the same for almost all their yeasts) but it seems to be doing okay at 12%.

As others have touched on, I think the key is pitching a lot of healthy yeast. I pitched a 2.5 liter starter made from a Wyeast XL pack into only 3-gallons of wort.
 
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