name that pellicle

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elipsey

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hi forum. i suppose this is sort of an ignominious first post, but here goes... i opened up my secondary to bottle this morning, and inside i found this monster.

this is a kolsch after 10 days in the secondary (plastic bucket). the beer looks clear and smells good, sg is 1.010. i haven't had problems with the batch before or after this one, and this batch looked normal when i racked it. i presume that the infection is limited to this secondary fermenter and, since i have used it before without trouble, was introduced during this use.

taste is initially what i would expect from a kolsch, but then a a bit tart or cidery, and sort of clings to the tongue. i detect no horsey, vegetal, or vinegar flavors, such as those typically attributed to brettanomyces, pediococcus or acetobacter respectively. i have seen pictures of brett ferments that look kind of like this but since people usually inoculate with other oranisms at the same time, i don't know which critter causes the pellicle, or whether it's appearance can be used for diagnostic purposes.

i am guessing that this is a lactobacillus infection, i would like to know what the forum thinks. i think the beer is sort of drinkable, my gf thinks it's gross. i guess i will probably throw it out as a matter of principle. i feel that i am generally quite conscientious about sanitation. this is the first time i have had a problem. i use bleach sanitizing solution, at a rate of 2oz/5gallons as described in Papazian. i retire my bottling hoses periodically, and will immediately do so again. i recognize that plastic is more oxygen permeable than glass, and that racking still beer into a secondary with significant head-space, and without purging with co2 introduces oxygen, and a risk of bacterial infection. are there are any other lessons i should take from this?

i'm posting partly for advice, and partly because brewers seem to have an unseemly interest in freaky looking pictures of pellicles. enjoy :)

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You most likely have a lacto infection. Possibly also brett.

Be extremely careful about bottling. You may need to sit on that for several months before it reaches final gravity to avoid bottle bombs.

I would also stop using bleach as a sanitizer. Seriously, starsan and idophor are not that expensive.
 
And buckets do not make good secondaries due to all the surface area. Invest in a carboy or leave your beer in primary until you are ready to bottle:mug:
 
thanks for the input. i think i will just let this one go, and try to learn from it. why drink a bad beer when i have three good ones in the basement?

I would also stop using bleach as a sanitizer. Seriously, starsan and idophor are not that expensive.
it's not about money, just convenience and familiarity. are these more effective than bleach? if so, i will switch...
 
thanks for the input. i think i will just let this one go, and try to learn from it. why drink a bad beer when i have three good ones in the basement?


it's not about money, just convenience and familiarity. are these more effective than bleach? if so, i will switch...

Bleach is a great sanatizer, and can be mixed to no rinse capabilities. a half tables spoon (1 oz i believe) added to 5 gallons of water, then after bleach is diluted in water add equal amount of vinegar. Requires a contact time of 30 seconds.

It is a no rinse sanatizer recommended by Charlie Tally himself, the inventor of Star San. The chlorine just evaporates off very quickly (contributes to no rinse capabilities) so it can't be stored and reused like a Star San solution can be.
 
I would advise to through the bucket away when you done with it. Homer buckets are not good for beer anyways.
 
PETE (#1)= Proper food grade plastic, doesn't leech at high temperatures, can be reused and still be considered food grade.

HDPE (#2)= food grade on it's first use. It's a use-and-throw-away food grade plastic, like for milk jugs.
 
So I guess all of our Ale Pails are one time use only? That decides the glass vs. plastic debate since it certainly makes them less economical than glass
 
To settle that plastic comment:

What Is Food Grade Plastic? The U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA) requires that plastics used in food packaging be of greater purity than plastics used for non-food packaging. This is commonly referred to as food grade plastic. Plastics used to package pharmaceuticals are held to an even higher standard than food grade.

Food grade plastic does not contain dyes or recycled plastic deemed harmful to humans. However, this does not mean that food grade plastic cannot contain recycled plastic. The FDA has detailed regulations concerning recycled plastics in food packaging.

Another aspect of food grade plastic is matching the appropriate type of plastic to the food in question. Foods that are highly acidic or that contain alcohol or fats can leach plastic additives from the packaging or container into the food. As a result, you should only use plastic containers that are FDA approved for the particular type of food the plastic will come into contact with.

Finally, it should be noted that a plastic container can no longer be considered food grade if it has been used to store non-food items like chemicals, paint, or detergent.

Types Of Plastic

In the United States, the following codes represent the seven categories of plastic used in nearly all plastic containers and product packaging:

<1>PET or PETE (polyethylene terephthalate) is a clear, tough polymer with exceptional gas and moisture barrier properties. PET's ability to contain carbon dioxide (carbonation) makes it ideal for use in soft drink bottles. Examples: Soft drink bottles, detergent bottles

<2>HDPE (high density polyethylene) is used in milk, juice and water containers in order to take advantage of its excellent protective barrier properties. Its chemical resistance properties also make it well suited for items such as containers for household chemicals and detergents. Most five gallon food buckets are made from HDPE. Examples: Milk bottles, shopping bags

<3>Vinyl (polyvinyl chloride, or PVC) provides excellent clarity, puncture resistance and cling. As a film, vinyl can breathe just the right amount, making it ideal for packaging fresh meats that require oxygen to ensure a bright red surface while maintaining an acceptable shelf life. Examples: Plastic food wrap, shrink wrap, garden hoses, shoe soles

<4>LDPE (low density polyethylene) offers clarity and flexibility. It is used to make bottles that require flexibility. To take advantage of its strength and toughness in film form, it is used to produce grocery bags and garbage bags, shrink and stretch film, and coating for milk cartons. Examples: Squeeze bottles, dry cleaning bags

<5>PP (polypropylene) has high tensile strength, making it ideal for use in caps and lids that have to hold tightly on to threaded openings. Because of its high melting point, polypropylene can be hot-filled with products designed to cool in bottles, including ketchup and syrup. It is also used for products that need to be incubated, such as yogurt. Many Cambo, Tupperware and Rubbermaid food storage containers are made from PP. Examples: Bottle caps, take-out food containers, drinking straws

<6>PS (polystyrene), in its crystalline form, is a colorless plastic that can be clear and hard. It can also be foamed to provide exceptional insulation properties. Foamed or expanded polystyrene (EPS) is used for products such as meat trays, egg cartons and coffee cups. It is also used for packaging and protecting appliances, electronics and other sensitive products. Examples: Plastic foam, packing peanuts, coat hangers

<7> Other denotes plastics made from other types of resin or from several resins mixed together. These usually cannot be recycled.

Another important type of plastic is polycarbonate, a clear shatter-resistant material used in restaurant food storage containers and recently in the Rubbermaid Stain Shield line of home food storage containers.

Hope above helps!
 
ahaha, ok, you caught me -- the bucket is indeed from home depot. it's bright orange and it has a cartoon of "homer" on it. apparently you recognized it by color alone? it is stamped HDPE, the same material as my ale pail, but it cost $2.75. i notice that the walls are thinner, and the lid fit is inferior by comparison.

i put the yeast cake from the primary in a 1L erlenmeyer flask when i racked so i could wash and store the yeast. the flask is still sitting in my basement with a fermenter lock on and it's not infected, so it must have happened in the secondary. in fact, there's about a half pint of good kolsch sitting on top of it; perhaps i will drink the lone survivor, and raise a toast to it's innocent brethren that were cut down in their prime.... QQ

i certainly will not use this bucket again. i have 3 carboys at the moment; i can easily spare it. i'm sure that my sanitation regimen, rather than the bucket, is to blame, but for no better reason than superstition i will avoid plastic fermenters for a while.

next time i use a secondary it will be glass, and i might rack it while it's still active to get a protective layer of co2 on top. maybe when there's a bubble every 30-60 seconds, or 2-3 points from the expected terminal s.g. is it ok to do that? will it finish properly without the whole yeast cake?
 
Back to the original question. I think your skin is a wild yeast. Get it once in a while in the tropics here. If you can rack the beer off and get it kegged and chilled with out getting much of that crap in it, it will be fine. If it stays with that stuff too long, the beer will be sour.
 
I would advise to through the bucket away when you done with it. Homer buckets are not good for beer anyways.

let's say he gets another infection should the next bucket be thrown away? what about a subsequent infection and so on? throwing away the fermentor makes sense to me if that means you will never get another infection otherwise non detergent soap, water and star san will clean the infection off. as far as all of the other sources of infection all we can do is be very careful in our brew houses.
 
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