Ebrewsupply 30a 2 element / 2 pid kit

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CoalCracker

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Just received their kit and am looking for layout options. Anyone have a picture of a control panel using this kit?
 
8 - LEDs (2 white 220v, 2 white 110v, 2 yellow 110v, 1 red 110v, and 1 green 110v)
1 - Emergency Stop locking push button with NC Contact
1 - Extra No contact for E-Stop
4 - 2-Way Switches with 1 NO Contact. For power to PIDs and pumps
1 - 3-Way Switches with 1 NO Contact. For power to element's contactors
1 - Key toggle Switch for panel on/off
3 - 40a Contactors w/ 110v Coils (1 ea for elements, and 1 for control panel power)
2 - 40a Solid State Relays for PID control of elements, includes heatsink
1 meter of DIN rail, cut in either 1/3s (fits enclosure perfectly) or 1/2
20 - Terminal Blocks for wire from 6-24 awg
1 - 25a 2 pole DIN Rail Breaker
1 - 16a 1 pole DIN Rail Breaker
6 - Terminal block anchoring ends
3 - Terminal block end covers
3 - Terminal block seperators
2 - Terminal block connecting bridge pieces
1 - Wiring diagram with our recommended design
1 - Buzzer

That's what's included. There is a diagram on there that I can follow. Just looking for a suitable layout.
 
P-J I can get to it fine. Sure your ISP isn't having issues?
Yup... The net has been overrun with blocking traffic and I have not been able to log into this site for the last several hours. (Check the evening news. It's on there tonight as well.)

I'm at a point that I have no idea how to help you out..

Sorry...

BTW: I'm still not able to see your referenced "Stuff"...

Again - sorry. I tried. Wishing you the best.

P-J
 
That sucks that the scum bags that get off on taking down sites targeted Go-Daddy. HBT uses them and that was why they were down for a couple hours.
 
I fell victim to GoDaddy DNS failure. CoalCracker, I based parts of my build on Tiber_Brews here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/electric-brewery-plans-need-help-183775/.
I have had a few other server issues, but those were on my side earlier. I'll be making changes soon (new server being setup now). Other changes will include more images, and with any luck a Wiki or Forum soon.

My idea behind the DIY kits though, is more like a DIY kit from NewEgg, leave the creativity to you on how to lay out your panel just as NewEgg doesn't tell you how to build their computer packages. As always though, my email is available, and I'm happy to help.

Here's how I setup the 30a BCS kit design that I've built as a means to make sure I have everything needed to build these as well as verify wiring. I will likely try and build a PID unit when I get more enclosures in, but the soonest it looks like that will be is mid October.
7464416790_8bcb1684d3_z.jpg
7464417542_df5124f739_z.jpg


My Own brewery, 50a BCS laid out on a much too big of an enclosure.
7004813582_a00da22581_z.jpg


-Ryan
 
That looks pretty nice, what size enclosure is that? Any pictures of it with labels, and perhaps a picture of the plug area?
 
It's a 12x10x6. It's going to be a bit of a tight fit.

My BIL has the enclosure now to wire it up. I'll take pictures once I get it back.
 
BIL? I feel like that's an acronym I should know...

Small enclosure makes for tight wiring, but huge enclosures are equally strange in my opinion so I like the thought.
 
Yea I'd say the kit is pretty complete. The schematics leave a lot to be desired. My brother in law called me last night and said that there are some things on there that don't make sense. He's an electrician so I believe him. I also looked at it and there were a few things I would have done differently. Other than that though, all the parts seem to be quality, and the shipping was fairly fast. I got the heatsink seperately from heatsinksusa.com Their prices are a bit more reasonable.
 
So anyone looking to do this kit. Get a bigger enclosure. I think I may either need to redo it, or move the contactors to a sub panel fo some sort
 
Yea I'd say the kit is pretty complete. The schematics leave a lot to be desired. My brother in law called me last night and said that there are some things on there that don't make sense. He's an electrician so I believe him. I also looked at it and there were a few things I would have done differently. Other than that though, all the parts seem to be quality, and the shipping was fairly fast. I got the heatsink seperately from heatsinksusa.com Their prices are a bit more reasonable.

Can you comment on what didn't make sense or what you would have done differently?

I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these.

Thanks
 
+1... interested in what didn't make sense, and also what size enclosure you'd recommend.

-gc
 
I'll have to talk to him but I know the one big thing is that the Schematic uses a different PID than what is needed. You should use a 2325 and that is a 2324. The other thing is the color coding and gauge size. There is a lot of yellow on that diagram so it is sometimes hard to make out what is what. They are the main things. I don't think there was anything that was safety related. I would go ahead and get it. Nice kit for the price.
 
I believe I bought a 16 x 14 x 8 panel. Personally I would go with what either he supplys or what the Kals build requires. Even this is a bit tight but works.
 
I'll have to talk to him but I know the one big thing is that the Schematic uses a different PID than what is needed. You should use a 2325 and that is a 2324. The other thing is the color coding and gauge size. There is a lot of yellow on that diagram so it is sometimes hard to make out what is what. They are the main things. I don't think there was anything that was safety related. I would go ahead and get it. Nice kit for the price.

Thanks, I guess the schematic was updated since you bought yours because the new one uses 2362 PIDs.

Also, there is still a lot of yellow on there, but the schematic has 11 different pages so you can see each wire colour individually

http://www.ebrewsupply.com/designs/PID/30a-PID-2-2-2PID-Electric.pdf
 
Thanks, I guess the schematic was updated since you bought yours because the new one uses 2362 PIDs.

Also, there is still a lot of yellow on there, but the schematic has 11 different pages so you can see each wire colour individually

http://www.ebrewsupply.com/designs/PID/30a-PID-2-2-2PID-Electric.pdf

Sorry guys, I'm happy to help on these. The drawing currently up is a few iterations old. I have done a number of tweaks since, but I have also been wrestling server problems, so I had let the drawings online go out of date (clue is the mis-spelling of electric in the top right box). The PID I use in the drawing should be based on the 2362 model. This is a good, basic PID unit, but the drawings can be quickly updated to others.

The enclosure that I have in stock should be the same size as Kal's. This was mainly because it was a good place to start, and now, having built a few panels, I can vouch for space.

If you have any questions, please PM or email me, I usually work nights on this all, so I have an eye out for questions.

Nice build CoalCracker, I hope its working well for you.
 
Sorry guys, I'm happy to help on these. The drawing currently up is a few iterations old. I have done a number of tweaks since, but I have also been wrestling server problems, so I had let the drawings online go out of date (clue is the mis-spelling of electric in the top right box). The PID I use in the drawing should be based on the 2362 model. This is a good, basic PID unit, but the drawings can be quickly updated to others.

The enclosure that I have in stock should be the same size as Kal's. This was mainly because it was a good place to start, and now, having built a few panels, I can vouch for space.

If you have any questions, please PM or email me, I usually work nights on this all, so I have an eye out for questions.

Nice build CoalCracker, I hope its working well for you.

Thanks. It looks like you updated the schematic? The word electric is spelled right now.

Also, I want to get 2352 for my PIDs instead of 2362, I think I can just swap it and not change any of the wiring, right?
 
No, the wiring is different. Compare the schematics with the white papers that came with the PID.

7A1AA1BE-A9B3-47D6-AAE9-6157C48F3D2D-12984-00000711D2B8216A.jpg


All powered up. Came out great!
 
Kit cost:180.00
Enclosure:100.00
2 x PID: 91.00
Labels: 30.00
Paint: 12.00ish.
HeatSink: 18.00

This is all approximate but will get you fairly close.
 
maybe a dumb question, but what are the white 'status' lights for?

They show the status of the PID. If the PID kicks on, you have a light.

Right, sort of. The white LEDs are wired directly to the element 240VAC power, but they ONLY light if the selector switch has selected element through it's respective contactor. Otherwise, though the PID is driving the SSR, the white LED won't come on.

There isn't any indicator showing the PID output (except for on the face of the PID).

Splitting hairs here, sorry.
 
Right, sort of. The white LEDs are wired directly to the element 240VAC power, but they ONLY light if the selector switch has selected element through it's respective contactor. Otherwise, though the PID is driving the SSR, the white LED won't come on.

There isn't any indicator showing the PID output (except for on the face of the PID).

Splitting hairs here, sorry.

This is an example of why I am taking years to understand this before I attempt it myself. I am still confused.

I am certainly no electrician, so I apologize for the convoluted question below:

I understand that the yellow light goes on to indicate which element has been selected. Furthermore, I understand that the temp set on the PID will cause that number to be maintained by the element, which may result in some on-then-off-then-on again element power.... All of that being said, does the white light turn on to signify that the element is indeed being used by the PID at the moment? (And thus not illuminated when the temp has been set and the element need not be running?)
 
does the white light turn on to signify that the element is indeed being used by the PID at the moment? (And thus not illuminated when the temp has been set and the element need not be running?)

Disclaimer: I'm just describing what I see in the schematic, linked above. I don't have this control panel (I built my own several years ago).

The white LED indicates that the element is actually getting power. So, yes to your question. But consider this scenario: you've selected Element #1 with the selector switch; PID #2 is set to 200F. What happens with the LEDs (yellow, white) for Element #2? Do they indicated what PID #2 is doing?

The answer is that PID #2 doesn't have any idea that Element #2 cannot get power. PID #2 will continue to drive SSR #2 in order to turn on Element #2, but Contactor #2 is disabled. Thus, neither the yellow or white LEDs for #2 every come on, even though the PID #2 is happily doing it's job.

You can't really figure any of this out if you don't understand the schematic.
 

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