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bassassassin772

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Ok please bear with me I am totally new to Brewing. Brewed my first beer last night went fairly well. I have a few questions though. when transferring from kettle to primary I noticed a scorched bottom likely from the LME. How much will this affect the taste? Also my Wort got to 63 degrees last night will this affect the fermentation? also i had a starting Gravity of 1.050 when the kit said it should be 1.046 is this bad?I am Brewing from a American Amber Ale kit.

Some other questions are what is a secondary ferminter used for? what are the different cookers? I have noticed people saying (HML?)

Thanks for the advice
 
It is difficult to say how much the scorched LME will affect the flavor. The Starting Gravity reading is not too far off, so that by itself won't cause a problem. The impact of having your wort temp go down to 63 degrees depends on the type of yeast that was used. It is not likely to prevent fermentation, but it could be slow to begin.

At the top of the Beginners Beer Brewing Forum are several "sticky" threads. You should find most of your questions answered there. Here is a link to the most helpful thread for new homebrewers: FAQ

Welcome to homebrewing!
 
63F is good for pre-fermentation wort, its gunna heat up quite a bit (3-10F) during active fermentation so I wouldnt raise it any.

dont worry about a secondary, its an outdated technique and not needed for an Amber. its basically a clearing vessel. just leave it in your primary for at least 2 weeks (3-4 is recommended) and move on to bottling.
 
Muddy i used the yeast from the kit it's the little pack. I will never use that stuff again after reading on here but SWAMBO bought the kit
 
Why wouldn't you use a dry yeast again? Do you have insight that I don't? I've brewed about 18 batches with nothing but dry yeast. Don't be too quick to count it out as an option.
 
RM I'm not saying i wouldn't use dry yeast but i have read on here that the little packs that come with the kits are not consistent
 
I'm kinda new to brewing as well, and I'm curious as to why everyone here seems to say a secondary fermenter is a bad/outdated/unnecessary step.
1-in a few interviews I've heard on a podcast with a worker from a yeast company, they said not to leave the beer on the trub for more than 14 days due to possible autolysis of the yeast cells giving a wet cardboard taste to the beer.
2-don't all commercial breweries use conical fermenters that function as both primary and secondary? The valve on the bottom let's them remove the yeast/trub so they avoid autolysis related problems.

I'm just curious
 
As stated already, you should be fine with a low pitching temp... Better to pitch too cold than too hot as far as I'm concerned. Too hot can kill the yeast, too cold will likely just slow down the process of them coming out of their dormant state. You shouldn't really have any adverse side effects from this other than fermentation taking a bit longer to start up but once it does all should be well.

As for your OG being off (though your so close you shouldn't be concerned) can be caused by a few simple things (none of them that you need to be worried about at all, but if you're like me, you want to know why things are happening the way that they are):

1.) Extract often varies slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer and sometimes batch to batch with regards to their % of fermentables.... this can lead to a slight variance in gravity.

2.) I'm assuming that you probably used top off water to achieve your final wort volume in your fermenter. When doing this its often tough to get accurate OG readings because its very difficult to completely mix the top of water and the wort together. Because of this, when you draw a sample for OG you can easily get an overly concentrated wort sample (resulting in a higher than expected reading) or a overly diluted sample (resulting in a lower than expected reading). Its absolutely nothing to be concerned with, its just something that you have to deal with when brewing partial boil extract batches.

3.) Did you remember to adjust your reading for the temperature of your wort? Most hydrometers are calibrated to read at 60 degrees.

As for inconsistencies with yeast packs that come in brewing kits, You're absolutely right. Its tough to determine how old those yeast packets are and impossible to know what sort of conditions they were stored/transported in. Its definitely a good idea to buy yourself a quality yeast (liquid or dry) and dispose of the ones you get with your kits.


Finally, Welcome to HBT and to Brewing!

Cheers!
 
I'm kinda new to brewing as well, and I'm curious as to why everyone here seems to say a secondary fermenter is a bad/outdated/unnecessary step.

Autolysis will not happen within 14 days. Yeast is much better today than it used to be and autolysis is an extreme rarity. Revvy didn't even get any after leaving his in the primary for 5.5 months. Check this out for more on the debate:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/secondary-not-john-palmer-jamil-zainasheff-weigh-176837/

Its absolutely nothing to be concerned with, its just something that you have to deal with when brewing partial boil extract batches.

You should always do measurements before adding more water and then adjusting after. Its the only way to gaurentee an accurate reading
batch OG = post-boil OG * post-boil volume / batch volume
 
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