Brewhemoth conicals?

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thatjonguy said:
Here is a pic of the lower half of my Brewhemoth, as you may notice, I went with a TC version. But the transfer process works the same, just with different (and in your case, less) fittings.

I opted to use a TC beer thread adapter instead of ordering a TC 1/4" hose barb (which were hard to find when I ordered my fittings) with a 1/4" MFL tailpiece.

2012_07_01_16_40_49_180.jpg


I complied this list of fittings to order from Midwest for you, this should be everything you need assuming you have a 1/4" MFL on your gas line from your regulator.

If not, you should. MFLs are the way to set everything up in your kegerator so it is easy to go from commercial to corny and back.

1/4" MFL to 1/2" NPT X 1
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/1-4-mfl-to-1-2-npt.html

Barbed Swivel Nut, 1/4" Flare, 1/4" Barb X 2
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/barbed-swivel-nut-1-4-flare-5-16-barb-2.html

Ball Lock Liquid Disconnect, Threaded X 1 (If you don't have a spare)
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/ball-lock-liquid-fitting-threaded.html

Ball Lock Gas Disconnect, Threaded X 1 (if you don't have a spare, for the pressurizer)
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/ball-lock-gas-fitting-threaded.html

1/4" ID Beer/Gas Line X 5 (feet)
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/beer-and-gas-line.html

Stainless Steel Tubing Clamp X 2
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/stainless-steel-tubing-clamp.html
Click to expand...


Awesome! Thanks for all the links!

For some reason the pic isn't showing up for me?? :drunk:
 
thatjonguy said:
PM me your email, I will send it to you.
Click to expand...

Thanks for sending over the pic

My brewhemoth is the v2.0 setup so it doesn't have tri clover fittings, will the setup you suggested still work?? (I ordered all that stuff yesterday)
 
brentt03 said:
Thanks for sending over the pic

My brewhemoth is the v2.0 setup so it doesn't have tri clover fittings, will the setup you suggested still work?? (I ordered all that stuff yesterday)
Click to expand...

It should, I put that list together assuming a ball valve with a 1/2 inch NPT out.
 
In case anyone cared, I fixed the image in my post about racking from Brewhemoth to keg.
 
I do have another question about checking the gravity from the brewhemoth during fermentation. What are some methods you all use??

I have an Irish red that has been fermenting for 8 days. Today I went by there to check the gravity. I just put the test tube under the racking port and poured some in there but I don't feel like I got a good reading since it was dirty from yeast settling and such.

Also along the same lines, when you guys rack to the keg do you first dump the yeast and rack beer off till it runs clean then fill??

Any input would be awesome!! Thanks!!
 
brentt03 said:
I do have another question about checking the gravity from the brewhemoth during fermentation. What are some methods you all use??

I have an Irish red that has been fermenting for 8 days. Today I went by there to check the gravity. I just put the test tube under the racking port and poured some in there but I don't feel like I got a good reading since it was dirty from yeast settling and such.

Also along the same lines, when you guys rack to the keg do you first dump the yeast and rack beer off till it runs clean then fill??

Any input would be awesome!! Thanks!!
Click to expand...

Dump the trub after a couple of days.
Do a yeast dump after fermentation slows down.
Then you should be able to take a pretty good sample from your sampling port.
 
For pressure ferment people:

When are you introducing pressure to the conical? A couple days after fermentation? A week? When is enough time to harness enough CO2 to carbonate?
 
I put the pressure relief valve on right away and set it to ferment at 5psi right off the bat. The pressure comes from the fermentation. As for carbonating, it depends on when the fermentation winds down. A few points of graivty is enough to carbonate to 2volumes.
 
Lennie said:
I put the pressure relief valve on right away and set it to ferment at 5psi right off the bat. The pressure comes from the fermentation. As for carbonating, it depends on when the fermentation winds down. A few points of graivty is enough to carbonate to 2volumes.
Click to expand...

So do you use the pressure release instead of a blow off tube/airlock?

How do you carbonate? do you crank it up to whatever PSI it needs at the fermentation temperature in order to get it to the desired # of volumes?
 
I just wait till it's coming out at a much diminished rate and crank it to 15 psi or so. I don't take gravity readings so I can't get things perfect. 5psi to start.
 
I found the pressurized fermentation difficult. If it is pressurized, you have no idea how your fermentation is going or when it is complete. Additionally, if you have the fermenter somewhere near full and an active fermentation, de-pressurizing can lead to a mess. I found it more useful to use that hardware to add some co2 initially or after fermentation is complete. Also used it to push out a blockage in a sampling valve.
 
Can't you use your sample valve to take gravity readings at any point and determine status that way alone? That's how pro brewers do it, they're definitely not cracking open their fermentors to take a peek inside. I have yet to do this myself - my brewhemoth arrived a few days ago - but that's how I'm planning to monitor a pressure ferment.

You've found it to be harder than it seems?

daufdi said:
I found the pressurized fermentation difficult. If it is pressurized, you have no idea how your fermentation is going or when it is complete. Additionally, if you have the fermenter somewhere near full and an active fermentation, de-pressurizing can lead to a mess. I found it more useful to use that hardware to add some co2 initially or after fermentation is complete. Also used it to push out a blockage in a sampling valve.
Click to expand...
 
cscade said:
Can't you use your sample valve to take gravity readings at any point and determine status that way alone? That's how pro brewers do it, they're definitely not cracking open their fermentors to take a peek inside. I have yet to do this myself - my brewhemoth arrived a few days ago - but that's how I'm planning to monitor a pressure ferment.

You've found it to be harder than it seems?
Click to expand...

+1 Opening the fermenter during a pressure ferment defeats the whole purpose of doing it in the first place. I check gravity out of the sample valve and have had no issues doing it (other than degassing the sample, obviously).
 
Do you shake it to degas faster, or just let it sit for a while?

RiverCityBrewer said:
+1 Opening the fermenter during a pressure ferment defeats the whole purpose of doing it in the first place. I check gravity out of the sample valve and have had no issues doing it (other than degassing the sample, obviously).
Click to expand...
 
I usually take a 200 ml or so sample into a 1L breaker then hit it with a kitchen whisk, it will foam up really good then the head will drop out in about 10 minutes.
 
I just cap the cylinder with foil and leave it for a while. There are other chores around the brewery getting done while the sample degasses.
 
OK...brewed my first batch with my Brewhemoth yesterday and attached the spunding valve instead of a blowoff/airlock and set the pressure to about 5. How long does it usually take until you see the gauge show some pressure inside the conical?
 
It depends on how long the oxygen uptake and growth phase takes... In my experience with pitching active starters with lots of oxygen I'm seeing pressure build in about 6 to 12 hours
 
OK, so as soon as I would have seen bubbles in the blowoff, I should see the pressure gauge move. Makes sense. Do you have the Brewhemoth pressurizer?
 
Well, I've fermented two different batches now in my Brewhemoth (a pale ale in August and a hefeweizen three weeks ago), and I've gotten horrible off flavors both times. In between those batches, I brewed a pilsner and an Oktoberfest in glass carboys that were flawless. My Brewhemoth cleaning/sanitizing regiment is as follows:

1.) Use a CIP (1.3 HP pump circulating 5 gallons of PBW water for 1/2 hour) through a SS spray ball
2.) Use a carboy brush to scrub the remaining krausen ring
3.) Rinse with 5 gallons water through the spray ball
4.) Add 10 gallons water, swish around, and dump
5.) Add 5 gallons Star San, swish around, and dump.

The pale ale infection was a strong solventy, paint thinner taste while the hefeweizen is a slightly sour taste. Does anyone have any suggestions?
 
"Strong Solventy" suggests higher alcohol, perhaps from higher temps or over-oxygenation while sour definitely suggests an infection of some sort. If you're convinced both are due to an infection then I'd probably fill the conical with PBW/Oxiclean overnight, then soak all the parts in that same solution overnight to make sure things are clean. Then maybe a boiling water rinse/soak or even a boiling water recirc for a bit. Then sanitize as normal and then fill with wort. Just my $.02.
 
Yeah, I initially thought the pale ale's problem was fermentation temperature or an under pitch until I took it to my brew club meeting and the consensus was unanimous that it was a sanitation issue.

I'll do the PBW soak next time I brew, for sure. what kind of pump are you using that you're able to recirculate boiling water? My dirty water pump specs only goes up to 90 degrees.
 
I don't have a conical but if I did I'd use my LG or my Chugger to recirc the boiling water. Just put it in the loop and let it run, it can't hurt right?
 
Another idea is to fill it to the brim with a heavy bleach mix and let it soak. That should kill any nastiness. Do the same for all fittings and valves, especially butterfly valves in the open possition. Then a really good rinse and back to normal procedures. Also, make sure to thourghly clean any other hardware and rubbing used with it that was not used with your car boys.

Just an opinion.
 
I guess I'll do a PBW soack, a bleach soak, and rinse thoroughly. I hope this won't become the routine for cleaning this thing.
 
Pick up some Five Star Sani Clean while you are at it, that product is low foam and you should use it CIP.
 
erikrocks said:
I guess I'll do a PBW soack, a bleach soak, and rinse thoroughly. I hope this won't become the routine for cleaning this thing.
Click to expand...

Just stumbled across this thread, and I don't have a conical, but if it is stainless do not use bleach! Not a good idea. It pits and corrodes it.
 
I'll second the no bleach comment. It would sanitize it once, but you run the risk of damaging the conical and creating a lot of pits for bacteria to hide.

I'd try a round of boiling water or a star san soak.

I also use a (new) garden pump sprayer to spray star san all around my brewhemoth.
 
Riiiiiight...forgot about the bleach issue. Thanks for that!

I guess my next brew day cleaning will consist of a PBW soak, rinse with boiling water, and soak with sanitizer.

Is anyone else having sanitization issues with the Brewhemoth?
 
I often clean mine, then pump 4 or 5 gallons of boiling water into it and seal it up. I have never had an infection in the two years I have been using my brewhemoth.

I once thought about using the tri clover to NPS element adapter that Brewers hardware sells, and using it to boil water right in the brewhemoth, but pumping in boiling hot water has worked fine for me.
http://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-Clover-X-1-NPS-Element-Adapter.html
 
Yeah, as many have said already...

Please do not attempt to sanitize your Brewhemoth (or anything Stainless Steel) with bleach...it will ruin it.

Cheers!
:mug:
 
Use your CIP pump with Sani-Clean...again in case everyone missed it.
 
I'm sure this has already been addressed, but since the thread has gotten so big:

Where are you guys racking into? I was originally just going to pump up into the racking port, but then got to wondering if going through the 1" TC in the top might be better to get some additional splashing/aeration action going on.

Thoughts?
 
Mpez said:
I often clean mine, then pump 4 or 5 gallons of boiling water into it and seal it up. I have never had an infection in the two years I have been using my brewhemoth.



http://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-Clover-X-1-NPS-Element-Adapter.html
Click to expand...

You say seal, but you wouldn't want to completely seal a tank with boiling or even very hot water in it. When it cools it would create a vacuum and tanks like these can't handle a vacuum. I've seen the result of imploding tanks at commercial breweries and it isn't pretty.

Here's a video, hopefully the link works
 
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