Blichmann Boilermaker Reviews

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what about a few pieces of copper, and either bend or put on some fittings so you can hang them on the edge of the pot... put QDs on them. Use one as a pump draw, and one as a return angled against the wall, and pull from the kettle mid-depth. Whirlpool through this, instead of whirlpooling by drawing through the screen. When it's done, the screen should be relatively clear and your trub pile centered so you can slowly draw wort off through a cfc to fermenter. Alternatively you could cool it with an IC, and use the hang-on-the-side copper pieces to create a whirlpool while using IC, then just continue to whirlpool a few moments after removing IC, let settle, then drain off slowly or pump off slowly to fermenter.

I actually just ordered a 20g, but to use as a mash tun. I've gotten a keg converted for the boil vessel.

What size is the female thread from the ball valve? Will the SS QD from B3 (wow... nobody but beer folks could possibly know what that means) thread directly in? I assume their QDs connect fine on the QD side, regardless of wether they are barb or threaded on the hose/pipe end.

Yes, this is a good option I think. I was thinking about drilling another port for this purpose, but your solution seems good too. I have B3SSQD's on every port of my brewery. Yes, they are fine. I'm not sure about your last question. The fittings are threaded; you need a FIP X Barb fitting to your hoses.
 
Yes, this is a good option I think. I was thinking about drilling another port for this purpose, but your solution seems good too. I have B3SSQD's on every port of my brewery. Yes, they are fine. I'm not sure about your last question. The fittings are threaded; you need a FIP X Barb fitting to your hoses.

Not anymore, they now carry a QD to barb version. They also sell all pieces separately.
 
Not anymore, they now carry a QD to barb version. They also sell all pieces separately.

Ah, I didn't know about the barb. That's cool. Too late for me unfortunately. On another note. There is an ebay seller called norastark that has been putting up silicone tubing that is awesome. It's like B3's but .875 OD instead of 3/4". The kicker is it's less than half the price of the B3. Here is a link to a 5/8" ID listing, but you could write and ask if they have any more of the 1/2". I bought a coil and it's way better than the Morebeer stuff.

KD
 
how much did the coil run you?
Also, the blichmenn female threaded end on the ball valve... it's 1/2"?
 
I must have that. :)
It's on next month's beer "allowance", though. Along with the pumps and QDs.
 
Thanks for the heads up on the tubing, she had 4 listed and I think I got the last one.

Back on topic: I have a question about Blichmann boilermaker brew pots... I'm putting together a 100% electric 10gal setup using 15/15/20 gallon Blichmann pots. Where I'm a bit confused is the pot add-ons, and unfortunately which add-ons you get depends on the process you want to follow I suppose.

Does the following pot add-ons make sense?:

HLT: 15 gallon pot with no add-ons.
MLT: 15 gallon pot with the false bottom but not strainer (is there any reason to get a strainer here?)
BK: 20 gallon pot with the strainer but no false bottom (is there any reason to get a false bottom here?)

How I plan to use this:

HLT/MLT:

HERMS coil in the HLT from the MLT controlled by PID/pump, going out the bottom MLT valve. I don't see any reason to get the strainer in the MLT as it'll only get clogged up right? It's the grain bed that should be doing the filtering here as the sweet wort is circulated, held back slightly by the false bottom (right?).

BK:

My need: I want to try and keep the cold break out of the fermenter. I know it doesn't really make a difference but why not.

So because of this, I have to cool in the BK. Not sure if I'll go CFC or immersion but whichever I choose will use pump re-circulation (and whirlpooling). I'll make sure to *NOT* recirculate out the BK bottom valve as this'll clog up the screen based on what I've read above. I'll either punch a hole in the side or use drop-in copper lines.

So should I even bother with the screen in the BK at all? Or maybe go with the false bottom too or only the false bottom? Or nothing at all in the BK? This is the one that confuses me the most.

Kal
 
Does the following pot add-ons make sense?:

HLT: 15 gallon pot with no add-ons.
MLT: 15 gallon pot with the false bottom but not strainer (is there any reason to get a strainer here?)
BK: 20 gallon pot with the strainer but no false bottom (is there any reason to get a false bottom here?)

How I plan to use this:

HLT/MLT:

HERMS coil in the HLT from the MLT controlled by PID/pump, going out the bottom MLT valve. I don't see any reason to get the strainer in the MLT as it'll only get clogged up right? It's the grain bed that should be doing the filtering here as the sweet wort is circulated, held back slightly by the false bottom (right?).

BK:

My need: I want to try and keep the cold break out of the fermenter. I know it doesn't really make a difference but why not.

So because of this, I have to cool in the BK. Not sure if I'll go CFC or immersion but whichever I choose will use pump re-circulation (and whirlpooling). I'll make sure to *NOT* recirculate out the BK bottom valve as this'll clog up the screen based on what I've read above. I'll either punch a hole in the side or use drop-in copper lines.

So should I even bother with the screen in the BK at all? Or maybe go with the false bottom too or only the false bottom? Or nothing at all in the BK? This is the one that confuses me the most.

Kal

John Blcihmann advises against using hte FB in the kettle. Sabco users use them all the time, but the construction is different.

The boil screen will clog very easily if you use a pump on it. Your external recirculation device sounds good, but the boil screen is not great in any case.
 
John Blcihmann advises against using hte FB in the kettle. Sabco users use them all the time, but the construction is different.

The boil screen will clog very easily if you use a pump on it. Your external recirculation device sounds good, but the boil screen is not great in any case.
Thanks! So does this mean you're recommending to only go with the dip tube in the BK? (Ie: no add-ons at all?)

Kal
 
Thanks! So does this mean you're recommending to only go with the dip tube in the BK? (Ie: no add-ons at all?)

Kal

No, not really. I have tried many configurations including no screen. This is the most frustrating part of my brewing sessions. No screen works ok if you use hop bags, but I have had problems with that configuration too. Hop bags, whirlpool and drain through dip tube with diverter has worked well.
Lately I have been reciruclating through a hopstopper and using an autosiphon to drain. My next try will be with an auxilliary recirculation device, probably thorugh a low drain with a filtered grant. It's a production for sure, but I have a feeling this will be the cats meow. I f i am thinking this thorugh, I should end up with a clean kettle that will drain easily through a screen.
 
Thanks. So I've decided to order the BK with the strainer anyway (it's not too expensive) just to be safe. I may or may not end up using it. MLT will only have the false bottom.

Kal
 
Thanks. So I've decided to order the BK with the strainer anyway (it's not too expensive) just to be safe. I may or may not end up using it. MLT will only have the false bottom.

Kal

That's good. Actually the diverter that comes with the screen is useful on its own.
 
it looks to me like the false bottom is different sizes based on pot size, but the strainer is probably the same regardless of size.

I just got my 20g blichmann (got it fully loaded, though I plan on using it as a MLT solely for now)
 
Correct. The strainers are all the same. The false bottoms are different.

Just ordered my 20/20/20 gallon Blichmann pot setup yesterday! (3 pots)

Kal
 
I was browsing the forums and found this relatively old thread. I was wondering if you have the old boil screens. I just got a 10gal kettle with a screen and there was a leaflet that said that the screen now had larger mesh to prevent clogging, but it was still not recommended for the two largest kettles.
 
Whoa! They have larger screens now? Any pictures? I was getting all ready to buy a hopstopper for my Blichmann but I'll have to see the new screen first.

Kal
 
I was browsing the forums and found this relatively old thread. I was wondering if you have the old boil screens. I just got a 10gal kettle with a screen and there was a leaflet that said that the screen now had larger mesh to prevent clogging, but it was still not recommended for the two largest kettles.

I do have the old screen. Interesting information; I think I will drop John a line and get the new screen for the heck of it.

KD
 
Wait a second - are you saying only the mesh is bigger on the screen? It's the same sized screen but the holes are bigger?

Kal
 
Larry: I was going to email John but no need to flood his inbox. Let us know what he says if you don't mind. I still have my old unused screen sitting here. (I've only had my Blichmann pots for 2 months ... Brewery is still being built).

Kal
 
Wait a second - are you saying only the mesh is bigger on the screen? It's the same sized screen but the holes are bigger?

That's what I understand from that leaflet. I have all my brewing gear at my girlfriend's apartment and I'm stuck in bed with the flu so I can't get more info/pictures for now, sorry.
 
Larry: I was going to email John but no need to flood his inbox. Let us know what he says if you don't mind. I still have my old unused screen sitting here. (I've only had my Blichmann pots for 2 months ... Brewery is still being built).

Kal

From Blichmann

"We did increase the mesh size a bit awhile ago, but it didn’t change the performance with pellet hops. I don’t recall any “leaflet’s”, but we did add a note to the package that we only recommend it for 10/15/20 gal pots due to plugging issues with the larger pots. We are trying to develop a better system to handle pellet hops, but unfortunately they are stubborn little things. The best way to deal with them is still a fine mesh reusable nylon hop bag."
 
.... or buy a hopstopper. ;)

Thanks Larry. Going to order my hopstopper now.

Kal

(My boilermaker screen may already be the larger mesh size - I ordered/received them in Dec 2008)
 
I didn't read all of the posts, but what's stopping you guys from using the false bottom as a huge hop screen? Maybe cover it with a piece of fine metal screen like the hop stopper?
 
Quick question for owners of the Biolermaker. Have you had any scorching issues? I haven't seen one in person but I was a little surprised by the picture on their website where the bottom does not look any thicker than the sides.

Thanks!
 
To the people that use the Boilmaker as an MLT:

How would you rate the False Bottom compared to say a generic one for a 10G Rubbermaid available on nearly every site?

I ask as the standard preforrated false bottom I have in my Rubbermaid is crap. I've stuck my last four batches and the reason each one is sticking is the FB is clogging in the holes from both grain and rice hulls or what I noticed on my last batch the FB actually collapsing flat from the grain weight (only 18#s but still)
And as of the last batch I'm in the need of a new MLT (mine took several nasty hits from a Fire Axe...didn't help but made me feel a hell of a lot better)

I was planning on using the Blichmann 15G for 5/10G batches as the bottom looks both sturdy and effcient.

I HERMS and planned to keep my 10G Rubbermaid eHLT and insulate the Blichmann with Relfetix (that wrap from HD)

So on a rating system...how would you guys rate the Blichmann False Bottom?
 
To the people that use the Boilmaker as an MLT:

How would you rate the False Bottom compared to say a generic one for a 10G Rubbermaid available on nearly every site?

I ask as the standard preforrated false bottom I have in my Rubbermaid is crap. I've stuck my last four batches and the reason each one is sticking is the FB is clogging in the holes from both grain and rice hulls or what I noticed on my last batch the FB actually collapsing flat from the grain weight (only 18#s but still)
And as of the last batch I'm in the need of a new MLT (mine took several nasty hits from a Fire Axe...didn't help but made me feel a hell of a lot better)

I was planning on using the Blichmann 15G for 5/10G batches as the bottom looks both sturdy and effcient.

I HERMS and planned to keep my 10G Rubbermaid eHLT and insulate the Blichmann with Relfetix (that wrap from HD)

So on a rating system...how would you guys rate the Blichmann False Bottom?

I love mine. I have a 20/20/20 Blichmann Boilermaker setup and make 12 gallon batches. I've only been using the setup for about 8 months but in the dozen or so batches I've made (ranging from 3.3-9% ABV) I've never had any sort of stuck mash, clogs or anything else like that. I recirc (HERMS) pretty fast too. Pump's about 40-50% open.

What I like about the setup is that the equipment's never getting in the way for me. I can concentrate now on recipes instead of worrying about the equipment.

I've never used any other mash tun but constantly read and hear about all the problems that others have with stuck sparges/etc.

Kal
 
You think the 20G would be too big for a 5G batch?

I only do 5G with the occasional 10G in there.

(And completely off topic...any chance you have a better shot of your control panel? that's basically what I'm drawing up and want to see if I'm missing anything)
 
You think the 20G would be too big for a 5G batch?

I only do 5G with the occasional 10G in there.
The only issue with using the larger kettles (from what I can tell) is that the thermometer won't work correctly as it won't be in the grain bed to measure mash temp. Blichmann does offer two thermometer locations now it seems (two holes with a hole plug). See the sizing guide tab here: http://www.blichmannengineering.com/boilermaker/boilermaker.html


(And completely off topic...any chance you have a better shot of your control panel? that's basically what I'm drawing up and want to see if I'm missing anything)
On my todo list to update the site with full details. ;)

Some extra pics for now from when I was assembling it:

http://www.curtpalme.com/kal/IMG_1474.jpg

http://www.curtpalme.com/kal/IMG_1475.jpg

http://www.curtpalme.com/kal/IMG_1477.jpg

http://www.curtpalme.com/kal/IMG_1476.jpg

http://www.curtpalme.com/kal/IMG_1478.jpg

Kal
 
Thos pictures are perfect.

And it looks like it runs off 30A/240v? That's exactly what I was sketching up :D

Looks like I'll be visiting your site a bit more often now. Want to read more on the alarm setup.


Oh and I LOVE the volt and amp gauges...L-O-V-E them and defiantely going to be adding them to my sketch.


Although the key ignition isn't right for my setup...mine will have a big ole Dr Frankenstein looking toggle switch....and I've been considering a jacob's ladder for above it just for S&G (People call me the mad scientist while I am brewing cause I wear a lab coat I got from somewhere)
 
Cool...my $$$ was either going to be divereted to getting an electrician in to wire me an outlet or using the Dryer plug and putting the $$$ in the equipment.

Now get to work and update your site :D
 
I got a couple of 10g Boilermakers for Christmas. I just set them up and I can not open the valve as the thermometer is too low and in the way. Does anyone else have this problem? I find that to open the valve I have to tilt the thermometer fully up in order to create the space to turn the handle.
 
I got a couple of 10g Boilermakers for Christmas. I just set them up and I can not open the valve as the thermometer is too low and in the way. Does anyone else have this problem? I find that to open the valve I have to tilt the thermometer fully up in order to create the space to turn the handle.

Odd, I just moved one of my thermometers down because it was to high. I believe you'll find they need to be tipped way up any way to see them when brewing. A pic would be nice.
 
As requested here are the pics. As you can see I have to tilt thermometer up in order to fully open valve.

blichdown.jpg


blichup.jpg
 
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