Munich Helles Dead Guy Clone (Extract & AG- see note)

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raceskier said:
Yooper,

What kind of primary/secondary/conditioning times did you use with your Pacman Dead Guy?

Just wondering, as I used the Szamatulski's 151 mash temp and Pacman fermented at 60F and was down from 1.055 to 1.008 in 6 days. I've had it in secondary in the low 60's for a week and it looks very clear already. I don't think that I've ever had any beer ferment out and clear that quickly. That Pacman is a beast!
Click to expand...

I don't remember, to be honest! But that's why I have my mash temp so high- pacman IS a beast and I wanted quite a bit of residual sweetness and a full body in the mouthfeel. I know it sounds crazy to mash it at 156- but I have to, to keep the malty thick mouthfeel I love in it.

I normally do a primary of about 2 weeks, then a secondary for 3-4 weeks or in the keg, until I tap it. Since it's not all that complex, it conditions relatively quickly.
 
YooperBrew said:
Dead Guy Clone

1 pound Cara-Munich
1 pound Munich
1/2 pound crystal 40L

Steep grains in a bag at 155 degrees for 30 minutes. Sparge with 1/2 gallon 170 degree water. Allow grains to drip into pot, but don't squeeze. Discard grains. Bring to a boil and add:

4lbs Alexanders Pale LME
4LBS LDME
(I substituted all XLDME)

1 oz perle 60 mins
1/4 oz perle 30 minutes
1/4 oz perle 5 mins
1/4 oz saaz 5 mins.

1 tsp Irish Moss 15 minutes or Whirlfloc

I used pacman yeast. If pacman is not available, try 1056 (American Ale yeast).

o.g. was 1.066
f.g. was 1.018

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Edit- More "slight" changes!

For AG, I find that I like this recipe best:

10 pounds maris otter
1 pound Cara-Munich
1 pound Munich
1/2 pound crystal 40L

Mash at 156-158 for 45 minutes or until conversion. Sparge to get up to boil volume.

Hops:
1 ounce Perle 60 minutes
.25 ounce perle 30 minutes
.25 ounce perle 5 minutes
.25 ounce saaz 5 minutes

Shoot for an IBU range of 30-35. My perle hops have been all over the map as far as AAUs go- I have some that are 9.3% and some that are 6.9%, so you may need to adjust these amounts.
Click to expand...

I assume I can use 9 lbs of this extract then the specialty grains and hops for this?
http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_21_72_132&products_id=11365
 
I would recommend a blow off tube for this one. I used safale us-05 and there is a serious party going on in the primary! :ban:
 
Carl,
At what temp are you fermenting? I did mine with US-05 at 65 degrees and had no ill effects.
BTW, US-05 is a great yeast for this beer. We did a comparison with my brew and an on-tap DGA at a bar: very similar, but mine won. :rockin:
 
Franc103 said:
Carl,
At what temp are you fermenting? I did mine with US-05 at 65 degrees and had no ill effects.
BTW, US-05 is a great yeast for this beer. We did a comparison with my brew and an on-tap DGA at a bar: very similar, but mine won. :rockin:
Click to expand...

It's at 66 degrees there was no serious mess I had to deal with just a little bit of beer in the airlock. I use a 6.5 gal bucket for primary.
 
Brewed the AG version back on September 15th...opened up a 22oz bottle and wow! This is by far my favorite clone I've made so far, the taste & apperance are really close.
 
I brewed this with a combo of Amarillo, Galena and Willamette and it still tastes very much like Dead Guy Ale. So if there are people who have some hops they need to use up this malt bill really dominates the hops and you get away with most...
 
I brewed this one yesterday but I had questions re: the volume of water used in brewing. The Beersmith recipe calls for roughly 4.68 gal on the strike + 1.5 gal for the sparge or 6.18 gal total. I ended up with around 4-4.5 gal of wort after all was said & done (water lost during strike/sparge + boil off) and ended up having to pour in a good 1-1.5 gal of cold water to get the BB filled to the 5 gal level. Did I misunderstand the water requirements? Thanks, Montanaandy
 
Yep that is the recipe that I followed which calls for a little over 6 gal total. I didn't measure how much 1st runnings I got out of the MLT which I should have and which would have allowed me to adjust things. There was some wort in the MLT which didn't drain out, hard to say how much but obviously enough to change my volume. My propane kitchen stove also gets a very strong boil going so I usually lose at least .5-1 gal per hour in boil off. I will make adjustments the next time I brew this. The Pac Man is great yeast and the wort is fermenting really nicely. Thanks! Montanaandy
 
OK mine was in the primary for 10 days then secondary for another two weeks. I kegged it and it is very cloudy after 3 days on the gas. This beer is the cloudiest beer I have ever brewed. Can I put gelatin in the keg at this point?? Has anyone else had this experience? I know the OG dead guy ale is not crystal clear beer, but mine is like light tan swamp water or something LOL!!! It tastes good though!
-Carl
 
carl_g said:
OK mine was in the primary for 10 days then secondary for another two weeks. I kegged it and it is very cloudy after 3 days on the gas. This beer is the cloudiest beer I have ever brewed. Can I put gelatin in the keg at this point?? Has anyone else had this experience? I know the OG dead guy ale is not crystal clear beer, but mine is like light tan swamp water or something LOL!!! It tastes good though!
-Carl
Click to expand...

Mine took five weeks to finish primary fermentation, then I racked it to a secondary for four more weeks and it finally cleared. Just kegged it this weekend and althought it finished high due to me fermenting too high, it tastes wonderful.
 
BYO published a clone recipe for dead guy ale. I was just wondering if anyone tried their version of the clone and what it came out like. Not trying to say the O.P's isn't good. I'm getting ready to brew and just trying to decide which version to go with.

BYO verion is as follows
8.75 lbs marris otter
4.0 lbs Munich (10L)
1.25 lbs Carastan (which I can't seem to find anywhere, guess it's crystal 40 as someone said)
1tsp irish most
.5 tsp yeast nutrient

1.6 oz perle hops (or whatever you need to get to 40 IBU's) @ 60 minutes
1.0 oz saaz at 0 minutes.

Pacman yeast

Mash at 152
90 minute boil
ferment at 60 degrees
 
Carl G, the original is really cloudy as well.

I just brewed up my first batch. Tastes great, but my wife thought that there was a very strong apple flavor. I've heard of Dead Guy described as citrusy or fruity. Anybody know if this is this normal for the style? Also, if I wanted to cut down the apple flavor, any thoughts on how to do it? I made the extract version.

This is dangerously drinkable at 6.5-7% alcohol. I'm afraid that it may end up a permanent tap on my keezer if I get it tuned in so both my wife and I love it.
 
Usually, "apple" flavor denotes a young beer. The "green apple" character is very common in a green beer, but gets better with age.

It's funny that you said you've heard Dead Guy described as citrusy. I've never gotten that from it. To me, it's a total malt bomb with a hint of spicy hops at the very tale end. I guess we all taste differently, though.
 
I saw that description (citrusy) on the Beer Advocate website. I agree with the sweet/malty assessment w/ spice at the end.
The apple character caused by my beer being green makes sense. It has been just 5 weeks fermenting and a week in the keg at this point. I'll give it time. Great recipe.
Thanks.
 
Memorex88 said:
Have a look here...

http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_452_43_261&products_id=1784
Click to expand...

Yeah, the best price I can find by piecemealing (both online and at my LHBS) is right around 47 with or without shipping. Even if you actually purchase the official Brewcraft kit, you're still looking to spend around $50 (not including s/h)

I'm going to make use of the first three batches and then I'll use this recipe when a fermenter becomes available. Thanks from a Dead Guy enthusiast!
 
Is there no roasted in Dead Guy???

I could swear there is a roastier note imparted than this recipe sounds like it would give.

Not saying anyone is wrong, just asking.
 
YooperBrew said:
I think that would be good. It's malty as it is, though. I really am a big Munich malt fan, so maybe that would be something for me to try next time.
Click to expand...

Hello there Yoop, I brewed this up again this weekend and tried out the grain percentages that John mentioned on the CYBI show for this beer which has a lot more Munich, 22% actually. I gave it a bit more hops this time too as my taste buds have veered to the evil side lately.

Anyways, it is going crazy in the carboy at 60 degrees right now :D
 
I am reading some of the posts as to how Dead Guy is supposed to taste. I have never had the original so I don't have any basis for comparison. I had a sample of an AG/DGC that sat in primary for roughly 4 weeks and which had been in the corny for about 1 week on 10 PSI set & forget. The flavor seemed a bit off to me - there was a bit of a sweet, burnt marshmallow taste to it and it caught me off guard. It mellowed out in the growler overnight and was a bit smoother but it was still kind of different. Anyone know what this might indicate/what might be causing this? Thanks, Montanaandy
 
Well, my friend and I are going to make our first Dead Guy clone batch tomorrow evening. Due to time/price restrictions, we're shopping directly from our LHBS, which doesn't have all of Yooper's listed ingredients, but gets pretty much to the point. Here's what we'll be using:

1 lb Caramunich 80
1 pound organic munich
1/2 pound Crystal 45L
9 lbs LME
Same hops
US05 Safale yeast

Based on what I've read, discussed...I'll be sacrificing just a little color and a tad bit of "Rogue" taste with the above ingredients, but still will result in a great beer. My LHBS told me that with 9 lbs LME, I'll get to a starting gravity of around 1.063, which I didn't feel was too bad. This will put me and my buddy out around $46 without shipping/waiting - which aint bad.

I'm expecting to have to use a blowoff for this? Additionally, because I'm a noob, I feel obligated to ask a noob question: Any specific amount of water for this recipe to steep the grains before sparging?
 
carl_g said:
OK mine was in the primary for 10 days then secondary for another two weeks. I kegged it and it is very cloudy after 3 days on the gas. This beer is the cloudiest beer I have ever brewed. Can I put gelatin in the keg at this point?? Has anyone else had this experience? I know the OG dead guy ale is not crystal clear beer, but mine is like light tan swamp water or something LOL!!! It tastes good though!
-Carl
Click to expand...

Just an update. This took a while for me to clear but now it is perfect and is a great beer!! It was my first AG brew and it was a success!
I will brew this again for sure. Thanks for the recipie.
-Carl
 
Alrighty...officially brewed our 9 lb extract batch of Dead Guy tonight. Stoked to see how it goes!

However, one thing to discuss with you guys. Perhaps it's because I'm using a hydrometer that came from Australia with my Cooper's brew kit, but my OG read at 1.13! I figured that couldn't be right and that there must be a mixup somewhere along the lines as far as the US using a different Hydro readout. Perhaps the label is just different? What are your thoughts?
 
Just put an order in for the ingredients for this beer (partial mash version) and had a couple of questions.

First, this is my first batch with anything besides dry yeast. I ordered the PacMan from Northern Brewer, so I'm assuming I should make a starter, right? I saw on someone's link to Austin Homebrewer that they recommended "double pitching" to avoid contamination issues with making a starter. I'm new at this, so that sounds tempting.

Second, I read this entire thread so I do know that you guys recommend lower range fermentation temps (low 60's), but what does this quote (from Yooper) mean:

"I'd say three weeks before cold crashing and lagering would be plenty of time."

My plan was to leave this in primary for three weeks in the low 60's and then bottle, am I missing something? Thanks
 
woopig said:
Just put an order in for the ingredients for this beer (partial mash version) and had a couple of questions.

First, this is my first batch with anything besides dry yeast. I ordered the PacMan from Northern Brewer, so I'm assuming I should make a starter, right? I saw on someone's link to Austin Homebrewer that they recommended "double pitching" to avoid contamination issues with making a starter. I'm new at this, so that sounds tempting.

Second, I read this entire thread so I do know that you guys recommend lower range fermentation temps (low 60's), but what does this quote (from Yooper) mean:

"I'd say three weeks before cold crashing and lagering would be plenty of time."

My plan was to leave this in primary for three weeks in the low 60's and then bottle, am I missing something? Thanks
Click to expand...
In my experience with the all grain version it took forever for the beer to clear up. So If it were me..I would recommend cold crashing the secondary to get most of the sediment to drop out before bottling. The combo of cold crashing and gelatin cleared it up nicely.. I post a picture of it tonight.
-Carl

Good luck!
 
I just served this at a party this weekend (mostly work people) and it was a hit. Unfortunately, it never occurred to me to change the name after one of our co-workers died unexpectantly last week. I am so used to the name over the years that I didn't put two and two together until a fellow home brewer noted that it would have been more appropriate just to call it Rogue Clone or something similar.
 
woopig said:
Just put an order in for the ingredients for this beer (partial mash version) and had a couple of questions.

First, this is my first batch with anything besides dry yeast. I ordered the PacMan from Northern Brewer, so I'm assuming I should make a starter, right? I saw on someone's link to Austin Homebrewer that they recommended "double pitching" to avoid contamination issues with making a starter. I'm new at this, so that sounds tempting.

Second, I read this entire thread so I do know that you guys recommend lower range fermentation temps (low 60's), but what does this quote (from Yooper) mean:

"I'd say three weeks before cold crashing and lagering would be plenty of time."

My plan was to leave this in primary for three weeks in the low 60's and then bottle, am I missing something? Thanks
Click to expand...

You can either make a starter, or use two packages of yeast whichever you prefer. I'm a cheapskate, so I'd make a starter, but if you don't mind purchasing a second package of yeast then that would be easiest.

You don't have to cold crash, but I find that giving this beer a little time at cold conditioning temperatures helps to smooth it out. It's definitely not crucial, and it'll be fine without it!
 
"I just served this at a party this weekend (mostly work people) and it was a hit. Unfortunately, it never occurred to me to change the name after one of our co-workers died unexpectantly last week."

Oops. While it is obviously never funny when someone passes, I am certain that your co-worker is looking down from heaven with a grin on his face :)
 
Okay, I'm guessing that with the excess amount of LME I used (9 lbs), it affected the original gravity reading - I knew that 1.13 was simply not possible. We just took a sample gravity reading and it came back at 1.023 - after 5 days. Unfortunately, I'm left to guess that we started close to Yooper's OG - my LHBS said that with 9 lbs, we'd get close, but just short - around 1.063 or so.

Forgive me as a novice brewer...I'm just excited to have brewed a clone of my all-time favorite beer. Yooper, I don't have any beer software, but what's your best estimate at what my OG was with 9 lbs LME? I followed the rest of the recipe/instructions exactly.
Again, I appreciate any and all knowledge dropped on me!
 
Here is a pic of what mine looks like. I think it came out a little darker then the original. It is a great beer!

deadguy_clone.jpg
 
I made the yeast starter for this beer Sunday evening and intend to brew tonight. I'm a novice, so bare with me if the answer to this question is obvious, but:

Should I pour the wort off the yeast starter and pour only the yeast into the primary, or is it safe to pour yeast and all from my flask into the primary?

Also, has anyone had any success with fermenting this between 65 - 68 degrees F?
 
You can use the whole starter, especially if there is still a lot of yeast in suspension. If I make a starter quite a while in advance, I'll often stick it in the fridge for a couple of days and then pour off the spent wort. But if you haven't done that, it's best to use the whole starter since quite a bit of the yeast will still be in the liquid.

You should be fine at 65-68 degrees.
 
Revvy said:
This is the recipe where I first (accidently) left my beer in Primary for a month....and it was so freking fantastic, that it sold me on the long primary, no secondary concept...

So yeah. you can do it!
Click to expand...

I'm gearing up to do the same...simply because the only fermenter I have available to use as a secondary is large (7 gal). However, this is an all-extract batch. Would you expect it to turn out similar to yours? I'm just overly concerned about my "baby" being alright. :)
 
YooperBrew said:
You can use the whole starter, especially if there is still a lot of yeast in suspension. If I make a starter quite a while in advance, I'll often stick it in the fridge for a couple of days and then pour off the spent wort. But if you haven't done that, it's best to use the whole starter since quite a bit of the yeast will still be in the liquid.

You should be fine at 65-68 degrees.
Click to expand...

Excellent! I'm pretty excited about this. Haven't had Dead Guy on draught in almost a year!
 
Just finished brewing a 5 gallon extract batch w/ a 4 gallon boil volume. OG measured a bit higher than expected at 1.071 (maybe because I used 7lb of LDME as opposed to XLDME?). I'll post FG when I've got it!
 

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