I would say no because this is a very small diameter solder. Maybe you could give it a try for $6.
Soldering Stainless steel
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I would say no because this is a very small diameter solder. Maybe you could give it a try for $6.
Do NOT use this solder at all. Just look at the data sheet for it.
That is some bad stuff.
Go to HomeDepot and buy this kit. It's the real thing.
Stay-Brite Kit with Flux
Thanks PJ, your always looking out for everyone. Does anyone have experience with this solder, looks like it might be a better substitute:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25e...=10053&langId=-1&keyword=solder&storeId=10051
I'm trying to find someplace local I can buy the right silver solder, because I already have a 4 oz bottle of Harris stay clean liquid flux.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25e...=10053&langId=-1&keyword=solder&storeId=10051
I'm trying to find someplace local I can buy the right silver solder, because I already have a 4 oz bottle of Harris stay clean liquid flux.
wyzazz
Well-Known Member
I'd like to chime in on this, I used regular lead-free plumbing solder on my fittings and it worked just fine with the Stay Clean Flux. I pulled my couplers through and roughed everything up with sandpaper really well and made sure the solder wicked through the joints.
The advantage (as I see it) to the silver solder is that it's better at filling gaps, melts at higher temps than the standard stuff & it produces a joint that is a bit stronger. However, for the cost & marginal benefit I used one of the many spools of plumbing solder that I had on hand.
If someone disagrees or knows differently please chime in. Cheers!
That solder is excellent for your use. It is very similar to the Harris StayBrite solder. I checked the MSDS sheet for it.
P-J
Huaco
Well-Known Member
I got 2 of these from Amazon and did all my joints with one of the spools of solder. I have not even opened the second package yet and I am wrapping 3 times around each joint.
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I just received all the parts for the keg\swage tool. I'm going to try soldering a washer on top of the large side of the reducer to further aid in keeping everything centered. I found a M14 metric washer at Home depot which almost fits the 5/8" bolt, similar to how the 5/8" bolt fits through the reducer, and the outside diameter of the washer is pretty close to what the reducer is.
I would've just gone with a 9/16" bolt, but no-one seemed to have a 4" length without a shoulder that'd be too long to use. So it looks like I get to do some grinding.
12 tools to make one tool. That's how we roll!
I would've just gone with a 9/16" bolt, but no-one seemed to have a 4" length without a shoulder that'd be too long to use. So it looks like I get to do some grinding.
12 tools to make one tool. That's how we roll!
okay, tool built... Now just need to start poking holes in some kegs!
I bought the Harris kit from airgas (though they brand it as Radnor). Price was $7.50
Soldered the washers to the back of the 1" fitting and drilled out the 1/2" washer with my step bit.
You can see a good penetration of the solder in this pic.
Soldered my M14 washer on the large end of the reducer.
Ground the outside of the washer down on my bench grinder.
Dremeled the living pi$$ out of the inside of the reducer and M14 washer to get my 5\8" bolt to fit through. Here you can see how the washer holds the reducer straight on the bolt.
And here's the whole thing put together.
I must say, if I made another one of these, I'd go with a 9/16" bolt instead, even if I had to order it from McMaster. Enlarging the inside of that reducer was a PITA and took me almost an hour and a half of Dremeling and filing.
Hope these pics help others out looking to build this thing!
I bought the Harris kit from airgas (though they brand it as Radnor). Price was $7.50
Soldered the washers to the back of the 1" fitting and drilled out the 1/2" washer with my step bit.
You can see a good penetration of the solder in this pic.
Soldered my M14 washer on the large end of the reducer.
Ground the outside of the washer down on my bench grinder.
Dremeled the living pi$$ out of the inside of the reducer and M14 washer to get my 5\8" bolt to fit through. Here you can see how the washer holds the reducer straight on the bolt.
And here's the whole thing put together.
I must say, if I made another one of these, I'd go with a 9/16" bolt instead, even if I had to order it from McMaster. Enlarging the inside of that reducer was a PITA and took me almost an hour and a half of Dremeling and filing.
Hope these pics help others out looking to build this thing!
Is there anyone selling something like this already made? Looks to me like the real cost is time.
I think if you use a 9/16" bolt, the only real modification you'll need to do is drill out the 1/2" washer with a step bit.
Soldering mine together (which isn't mandatory for the build) really only took me about 10-15min, including grinding the outside of the M14 washer. It was the grinding of the reducer to fit the 5/8" bolt that took me so long.
Soldering mine together (which isn't mandatory for the build) really only took me about 10-15min, including grinding the outside of the M14 washer. It was the grinding of the reducer to fit the 5/8" bolt that took me so long.
Okay, I've searched through this tread for at least 30 minutes and can't find it.
Can someone direct me to the parts list for making a dimple to solder a 1/2" coupler to a keg. Also one for a heating element.
Thanks!
Can someone direct me to the parts list for making a dimple to solder a 1/2" coupler to a keg. Also one for a heating element.
Thanks!
nostalgia
Well-Known Member
Since no-one answered you on this... Here's the parts for the 1/2" coupler tool. Taken from the youtube video posted previously.
However, being that I just built this tool, I think I would try to use 9/16" bolt, nuts and washers instead of the 5/8". Grinding out that reducer to fit the 5/8" bolt wasn't much fun.
5/8"-11 x 4 1/2" bolt
5/8" washer
3/4" to 1/2" stainless steel butt-weld pipe fitting (McMaster-Carr p/n 45605K711)
1" stainless socket weld low pressure coupling (McMaster-Carr p/n 4335T64)
1/2" washer (drilled to 5/8" with the step bit)
5/8" washer
5/8"-11 nut
As for your heating element, I think I did see someone in this huge thread that made a larger tool, but I couldn't tell you where.
Thanks. That helps hearing it from someone that just built the tool and used it. Do you think maybe the 1" pressure coupling could be something other than stainless? That's pretty expensive if I could just use something else of the same size/strength.
For clarification, what size hole do you initially drill, and how much smaller should the final hole be compared to the OD of the coupler you are soldering to it? That would help me figure out what to get for the heating element.
For clarification, what size hole do you initially drill, and how much smaller should the final hole be compared to the OD of the coupler you are soldering to it? That would help me figure out what to get for the heating element.
I'm sure you could use something else, but I gotta be honest in saying that the 1" fitting is pretty ideal for the way the reducer fits inside of it. I figured it was worth the extra money to get something that's been through it's tests.
for a 1/2" coupling, you should start with a 7/8" hole. I used a Greenlee 1/2" conduit punch to make the hole. I have a about 6 different sized couplings from different places, and none of the the ones from McMaster Carr that everyone says are the perfect size (they were too pricey on them IMHO). I tried marking the reducer to the size of the couplers but it never really worked out. I ended up just taking a good guess and if I made it too big, and few taps with a hammer and the coupler was in there snug enough to solder.
for a 1/2" coupling, you should start with a 7/8" hole. I used a Greenlee 1/2" conduit punch to make the hole. I have a about 6 different sized couplings from different places, and none of the the ones from McMaster Carr that everyone says are the perfect size (they were too pricey on them IMHO). I tried marking the reducer to the size of the couplers but it never really worked out. I ended up just taking a good guess and if I made it too big, and few taps with a hammer and the coupler was in there snug enough to solder.
Not sure if this helps any, but it's all I could find given my limited time and the insane size of this thread. But here's a post of someone using a larger reducer for an element.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/soldering-stainless-steel-155782/index59.html#post3140962
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/soldering-stainless-steel-155782/index59.html#post3140962
Huaco
Well-Known Member
Just a word of advice...
If you like to keep your tools looking good, plan to use stainless throughout all components of this "keg tool" The flux ran down onto my zinc plated parts and pretty quickly ate the plating off. Now, am I one to care about what a tool looks like after a few uses... not at all. However, I do plan to use this tool to help others make their keggles and it would be nice if it weren't rusty and nasty looking when I gave it to them to dimple their kegs...
If you like to keep your tools looking good, plan to use stainless throughout all components of this "keg tool" The flux ran down onto my zinc plated parts and pretty quickly ate the plating off. Now, am I one to care about what a tool looks like after a few uses... not at all. However, I do plan to use this tool to help others make their keggles and it would be nice if it weren't rusty and nasty looking when I gave it to them to dimple their kegs...
Huaco
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I kinda walked into that didn't I?
How did you get flux on your tool? - that sounds worse than it is!
I only got flux on my tool when I was soldering the washers onto it. Other than that, I use the tool and only flux the coupler and vessel I'm soldering.
I only got flux on my tool when I was soldering the washers onto it. Other than that, I use the tool and only flux the coupler and vessel I'm soldering.
Huaco
Well-Known Member
Once I dimpled the keg wall and sanded/cleaned it up, I fluxed the fitting as well as the dimpled wall then used the tool to drive the fitting into the hole. Some of the flux dripped onto the other parts of the tool when doing this.
Ah... I had great success just pushing the coupler in and then fluxing. That's why it never happened to me.
I did find that you have to put some grease on that bolt though or it starts binding pretty quick!
I did find that you have to put some grease on that bolt though or it starts binding pretty quick!
Huaco
Well-Known Member
Yep. I lubed the threads prior to working the threads that hard.
slakwhere
Well-Known Member
i just converted some weldless fittings to soldered, but overheated some of the flux and created some black marks on the inside of the keg around the fitting. does anyone have an easy way to remove this?
nate456789
Well-Known Member
Barkeepers friend powder and scotch brite pad will take it right off.
PBW will too but it will take more work.
slakwhere
Well-Known Member
BKF it is then!
slakwhere said:
Get a small stainless wire brush too. I have one about the size of a toothbrush. It's great for cleaning up threads and tight areas.
slakwhere
Well-Known Member
i will keep my eyes open for one, where did you get yours?
By the welding supplies at the hardware store.
slakwhere
Well-Known Member
perfect, i have to go refill the 5 lb bottle anyway next week 
cgherrington3
Well-Known Member
Anyone interested in selling or renting the tool out?
I only need to make a few dimples, then pass it on to the next guy or send it back to you.
No problem leaving depost via paypal.
Thanks!!
I only need to make a few dimples, then pass it on to the next guy or send it back to you.
No problem leaving depost via paypal.
Thanks!!
adivito
Well-Known Member
Where are you located? I would be happy to lend mine to someone local, and I'm sure others would too.
how hard would it be to use the keg tool on a 1" half coupling for a heating element from bargain fittings? Since it is for an element you do not really need a full. Since it is a half coupling the coupler wont be sticking out as far therefore the majority of the element would be sticking in the pot without as much in the coupler
Double-R
Well-Known Member
Hey ekjohns....Remember me
I just soldered the the lock nut to the keg..No keg/dimple tool needed.
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36_38&product_id=57
I just soldered the the lock nut to the keg..No keg/dimple tool needed.
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36_38&product_id=57
So I have seen that done a lot and the question I have always had was does the solder ever wick into the threads? I know gravity should pull it down but since you have to use more solder to make up for the curved wall I was afraid to much would leak in and screw up the inside blocking the element from screwing in
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