Asco redhat 2 valve help

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Kyled93

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Hey all,

Not sure if this is the correct place to ask his question but here goes.

I have 2 identical red hat 2 asco valves that operate at 120v and 5-100 psi normally closed. One of my valves clicks and operates normally open when the power is supplied. The second valve seems to be always open regardless whether power supplied or not. I need a little help on what could cause the valve to stick open like that.

Is it as simple as taking apart the valve and cleaning something?

I am currently running a high pressure banjo burner setup.

Thanks for any help!
 
I don't know about this valve directly but I had this happen with my solenoid valves a couple of times. This first time I took them apart and inspected the diaphragm and what not (not much to them) the second time I tapped it with a wrench and it snapped closed. I always actuate the valves now after I apply power to the system BEFORE I turn the gas on. It's only happened a couple of times and seems like it was during the first week or two of installing them. I haven't had an issue sense then, about 10 months I guess.
 
Took it apart.... I think the coil may have failed.

There is no way that it could be wired wrong right? 2 red wires and 1 green.
 
Hi

This is where an ohm meter comes in handy... Even a cheap / simple one will tell you if it's blown (they pretty much always fail open).

Bob
 
I have ran into this problem with asco, burkert, parker, and a few other brands of solenoid valves, and the majority of the time it is due to a small spec of material stuck on the rubber diaphragm. I would start by removing the plastic cap from the top of the solenoid, then the retainer clip below it, which will allow you to remove the solenoid coil. Then, remove the screws holding the valve body together, remove the rubber diaphragm and clean it with rubbing alcohol. The majority of the time you will be able to see the offending material on the diaphragm, although, I have cleaned a few without any visible issues that have been good to go afterwards. If that still doesn't work, then I would start looking into a rebuild kit or new solenoid coil if needed. If you want to eliminate the solenoid being bad, just swap the solenoid from the other valve and test it.
 
Thanks TonyG.

I was able to clean it out and inspected the parts for any foreign material. Clean as a whistle.

I ohm'ed out the coil and got 000's and I did a little research and found that I should be at least reading 80-200 ohms. I think the coil must be bad. I just ordered a new solenoid from valves for projects on eBay. Great price too 35$.
 
Another thing, don't power the coil while it is off the valve, you will smoke it. I would swap coils with the one you know works, to rule out valve issues.
 
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