Brew stand... giving it a go!

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mtmetzler

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OK, so I am going to try the DIY approach for a single tier brew stand. I picked up a welder at Harbor Freight for cheap and have been practicing to the point I feel comfortable. I am fortunate enough to have a steel place down the road that sells drops (short cut off pieces) and full length pieces. Here is my first dilemma. They offer both 11gauge (1/8") and 14gauge (5/64") square tubing. I see allot that use the 11gauge but have been seeing more using 16gauge (1/16"). Since the 14gauge is thicker than the 16 I would love to use that over the 11gauge since I can get the 14 for almost a buck ($1) cheaper. Any thoughts out there about it? or should I just buck up and get the 11gauge mild steel?

I will be sure to take some pics as the project unfolds. Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

:mug:
 
I haven't built one but I do quite a bit of welding. If you are using square tubing, I would use 14ga for the short pieces as well as the vertical pieces but might go ahead and bump up to 1/8 inch stuff for long horizontal pieces (I hope that makes since).

14ga might be fine all the way around but a little overkill might be worth it with this project. A kettle full of hot liquid could cause serious injury if things went bad.
 
Since you do allot of welding, much change to wire speed if I have been practicing on 14gauge already to accommodate welding the 2 different thicknesses?
 
I don't change much between the two gauges, but I do change the speed at which I weld... Realize the lighter gauge will blow through quite a bit more easily, so either turn down the heat a notch (my Lincoln has clicks) or you can speed up your pace a bit. Just watch the puddle.
 
mtmetzler said:
Since you do allot of welding, much change to wire speed if I have been practicing on 14gauge already to accommodate welding the 2 different thicknesses?

Not really. The easiest way for me to tell you goes like this:

Listen to the welding. If it goes buzz...buzz...buzz (like intermittent arcing) adjust the speed slightly and try again. When playing with wire speed, you want to get a constant gradual buzz.

Different wire (flux or mig) comes in different sizes. Depending on the voltage of the welder and the size/type of wire being used, you will have to make slight adjustments to wire speed. Most often my welder's wire speed is somewhere between 4 & 6 (but remember, welders aren't the same, materials aren't the same and the temps as well as conditions in your area can differ from the next guy).

If you are using a 110v mig welder, make sure you are using wire size .023 - If I recall, harbor freight doesn't sell that small of wire but it works much better with the smaller welders.
 
Like the previous poster mentioned, it is possible to "blow out" thinner gauge metal (welding just fine and then "holy crap" there is a hole the size of a dime!

If this happens, just do short bursts with the welder to fill the hole back in. Short bursts and some grinding will take care of the "blow outs"
 
Hey there! Excited to see this thread. I am on the exact same path but am a little ahead of you. I have never welded before and have built this thing. More to come but it's fun!

image-2772877107.jpg
 
Dude that looks awesome! What dimensions are you using for the support diamonds to hold kettles. Also from the looks of things this is definitely 2" tubing correct (also what thickness did you use?). It looks like a tank and hope I can replicate what you have done. Thanks for the picture.
 
mtmetzler said:
Dude that looks awesome! What dimensions are you using for the support diamonds to hold kettles. Also from the looks of things this is definitely 2" tubing correct (also what thickness did you use?). It looks like a tank and hope I can replicate what you have done. Thanks for the picture.

They are about 8.25 inches on their longest side. To be honest I didn't plan on doing them at all but I wasn't thoughtful enough on the front end with my measurements and my openings were 15 x 15 inches do I had to add the diamond design later to make it functional. Cutting and grinding and welding those suckers added about a month to the project. In the end they do look cool though.
 
And yes I went with 2 inch tube. Mostly because it looked cool. Definitely overbuilt but I would do it this way again when I build another one.
 
OK, so after a short period of time... Fine over 3 months I have started my build. HAHA Cut the pieces yesterday morning and hoping to get some welding in over the weekend. Went with the 2" thicker gauge material. Currently making it 6' long, 17" deep, and 2' high. Will post some more pics as progress picks up. The legs I stood up against what will be the top. Bottom of stand is closest to you.

IMG_1374.jpg
 
It was over 100 degrees this weekend so I did not get as much done as I wanted, but at least finished a few things.

Welded the top frame and one cross brace for the first keggle.

You will also notice that I no longer am using my Chicago Electric 90amp welder. After laying down the first bead it crapped out on me, wire feed flat out stopped. Luckily I did buy the warranty so they are replacing it this evening with a brandy new one! I had some GC's, Store credit, plus 6 months free financing at HD so i got the Lincoln Weld Pak 140HD. Holy crap does a welder make a difference. Enjoy the pics, will post more as they become avail.

Still learning to weld as you will see from my joint, but had it looked at and is structurally sound, just not pretty! :cross:

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I'm in the planning stages myself and have never picked up a welder. I'm subscribed so I can see how you progress. Best of luck.
 
@jclucca

Nice! I was very intimidated at first, actually scared is more like it. Nothing between 10 to 15 gallons of boiling liquid than something I welded! :D That being said I worked on the top rails first since they will be held up by the legs directly. Gives me a few more welds in before moving on to the rest of the structure. Might not get back to it until this weekend, but it is definitely an awesome skill to learn. Tell you what, if Harbor Freight gives me a brand new replacement for my busted one, I'll sell it to you if you want. 15% cheaper than what they have it advertised. :)
 
Can I ask what series welder you are using. I'm using a stick right now but I'm a lot better with a MIG, looking to get one
 
I am currently using the Lincoln Weld Pak 140 HD that I got from Home Depot. It is an SMU (exclusive for HD) It was 5 times as much as the Chicago Electric model, but built so much better and can be used for Steel, Stainless Steel , or Aluminum. Was really hesitant in purchasing but I can already see myself building alot of things... :rockin:
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/assets/en_US/Products/literature/E739.pdf


The one I was using before it crapped out was the Chicago Electric 90 amp FCAW. It can only use Flux Core wire, not able to be used as a MIG setup.

http://www.harborfreight.com/welding/mig-flux-welders/90-amp-flux-wire-welder-68887.html
 
Wow,,, that is a heavy duty brew stand... mine is made up of Perferated Angle Iron I gor at Home Depot... No welder needed just some nuts and bolts.... it is much lighter than what I see here... There are wheels monted on one end like of a Weber Grill so once the Keggles are off of it it can easily be moverd around by one person...
 
Wow,,, that is a heavy duty brew stand... mine is made up of Perferated Angle Iron I gor at Home Depot... No welder needed just some nuts and bolts.... it is much lighter than what I see here... There are wheels monted on one end like of a Weber Grill so once the Keggles are off of it it can easily be moverd around by one person...

Hey, curious on what the cost of your build was and if you are happy with it?
 
@jclucca

Nice! I was very intimidated at first, actually scared is more like it. Nothing between 10 to 15 gallons of boiling liquid than something I welded! :D That being said I worked on the top rails first since they will be held up by the legs directly. Gives me a few more welds in before moving on to the rest of the structure. Might not get back to it until this weekend, but it is definitely an awesome skill to learn. Tell you what, if Harbor Freight gives me a brand new replacement for my busted one, I'll sell it to you if you want. 15% cheaper than what they have it advertised. :)

Well, to be honest, I've got a buddy with a welder and lots of experience - which is the only reason I'm tackling this myself (ok, not myself - but you know what I mean). I think I'll just use his stuff for free and keep my budget as low as possible. Thanks for the offer, though!
 
Ok update from this weekend. Had a few hours on Sunday to head back to my rents garage to do some more work. Was able to "finish" welding the top of the stand to hold keggles and cooler. Attached a picture below. I left about a 18" gap between the HLT and the where the cooler will go. Not so sure heat plays nice with plastic! I left it so that in the future if I wanted to add another keggle I can just mount another burner. Hope I am able to built the support frame the next time I am down there. Moving slowly, but at least moving. :mug:

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I've done a lot of metal projects (theatre) - and you guys are going big. I like 16 and 18 gauge for 1" square tube. It's quite strong. 1/8 and 11 ga is really overkill for a project like this.

As for wire speed / welder settings you want it to sound like frying bacon - constant sizzle sound.

oh, and metzler - that weld isn't that bad. you want it to look like a tiny stack of dimes pushed over - you got good penetration and a pretty decent looking bead.
 
Looks good so far man. I also made mine out of 3/16 2x2 tubing because i had alot of it and like i seen in a previous post about my stand, I used the thicker stuff so i can drill an tap and bolt everything to the stand. If you and a couple buddies can bounce up and down on it without breaking it your welds should be good ;).

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@bry
Thanks it is a bit over kill, my next one won't be. I do have a question. Had a couple blow outs when welding the but joint against the radius corner of tubing. I turned down the heat a bit an added a bead angled more towards the solid tube vs the open end of the support piece. I then go back and add another bead to fuse the pieces together. Is that the right thing to be doing? I know the two vertical sides would be enough, but just hoping I am welding the tops correctly. I will grind the top and bottoms flat but want to be sure there is a good joint.

Thanks in advance!
 
Looks good so far, i'm planning on starting a new steel stand soon. I see you're from Jersey, and was wondering where you're getting your steel. I've heard good things about Fazio's down in Glassboro. Steel at Home Depot is way too expensive.

I also started welding with the HF welder, not to long ago I got a Hobart. Night and day difference.
 
@jafo28
Yeah I'm originally from Berlin now Mount Laurel. As far as Fazio's it is a adult playground! They have everything and it is where I picked up my steel. Will definitely be going back there for more stuff. Where in Jersey are you from?
 
PorterBoy said:
Looks good so far man. I also made mine out of 3/16 2x2 tubing because i had alot of it and like i seen in a previous post about my stand, I used the thicker stuff so i can drill an tap and bolt everything to the stand. If you and a couple buddies can bounce up and down on it without breaking it your welds should be good ;).

Talk about a beefy set up! Haha nice job!!!
 
@jafo28
Yeah I'm originally from Berlin now Mount Laurel. As far as Fazio's it is a adult playground! They have everything and it is where I picked up my steel. Will definitely be going back there for more stuff. Where in Jersey are you from?

I'm in Burlington Twp. Thanks for the info, when I get to building i'll post some pics.
 
@bry
Thanks it is a bit over kill, my next one won't be. I do have a question. Had a couple blow outs when welding the but joint against the radius corner of tubing. I turned down the heat a bit an added a bead angled more towards the solid tube vs the open end of the support piece. I then go back and add another bead to fuse the pieces together. Is that the right thing to be doing? I know the two vertical sides would be enough, but just hoping I am welding the tops correctly. I will grind the top and bottoms flat but want to be sure there is a good joint.

Thanks in advance!

that's probably the easiest place to get a blowout. You'll need to learn to adjust your speed and that will help. Another thing that helps is that you don't have to run a continuous bead... Run a couple of inches, then move to a different area and run a stitch there... Spreading out your stitches and then coming back will help.

Learning your machine's settings will also help.

I wouldn't do multiple beads like you described. Shouldn't hurt, and you're not going to put enough weight on it to really matter, but you should be able to do a single bead for a butt joint (unless it's more than 3/16", then you should start overlapping beads)

Turn down the heat, as you did, and 'wash' your puddle from the solid over onto the butt end... You'll do fine. :D
 
@socolboomer
Thanks, the washing from the solid over makes perfect sense. I will give that a go with a little less heat. Thanks again for the advise!
 
Looks great!! The weld in the last picture.. If your not a welder i would be proud of that. That weld looks good. They will only get better. I ike your stand design as it looks almost like mine. Keep up the good work
 
Has anyone welded zinc plated wheels to their stand? Just curious about how this would affect the weld. Reluctant to bolt everything but will if needed. Attached a pic of one of the wheels I plan to use. 4" caster with zinc plated mounting plate. Good for 225lbs a piece and will have 4 of them.

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They dont weld the best but it will work, Just dont breathe the smoke. You can take a grinder and grind some of the coating off and that will help it weld better. I was going to weld mine right to my frame but was thinking if i do that and one breaks, it may be hard to match it up right. I got a piece of 3x3 plate or so and welded it and drilled it so if i wanted to change the casters i wouldnt have to chop the stand.
 
PorterBoy said:
They dont weld the best but it will work, Just dont breathe the smoke. You can take a grinder and grind some of the coating off and that will help it weld better. I was going to weld mine right to my frame but was thinking if i do that and one breaks, it may be hard to match it up right. I got a piece of 3x3 plate or so and welded it and drilled it so if i wanted to change the casters i wouldnt have to chop the stand.

Good point. Have some extra pieces so I am going to weld a few more cross pieces and bolt them on. Thanks!
 
Ok stand is now mobile. Took some advice about not welding zinc plated and chose to bolt them on. Two 4" locking swivels and two 4" fixed casters. Each caster is rated for 225lbs. Pics attached below.

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Looks good!! I like how you used the tubing to space it out an make the pad for your casters.

Thanks! I was going to go get a plate, cut, and drill it but figured I had the extra pieces so why spend more $. Next thing is to build and mount the heat shields for the burners. One of the guys going in on the build bought the burners which should be delivered next week. Went with 2 of the Bayou burners
which we will mount in spots 1 and 2. For the heat shields/mounts I picked up a 36" X 24" sheet of 16ga steel. Going to cut 2 strips and bend round and spot weld by drilling some offset holes and filling in with weld material. Moving pretty good now.
:rockin:
 
Are those double locking casters? If not you could possibly have them rotate once you start loading up your brewstand with weight. Double locking casters lock the caster (Rolling) as well as locking the pivot about the swivel axis.
 
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