Chest freezer collar is built, what parts do I need to get for faucets?

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solbergg

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Hey all,

Had a productive day building my keezer collar. It fits the unit perfectly and actually looks half decent too (a feat considering I don't work with wood all that often). If I do it right, obligatory photo should show up below. Anyways, I drilled some pilot holes in for the faucets, but have no idea what size the holes should actually be. Also, when I have gone to a few online retailers, I get completely confused as to what parts I need. I tried doing a search on this subject, but came up with nothing. Can anyone help point me in the right direction?

Chest%20Freezer%20001.JPG
 
You'll need some faucet shanks, I recommend 4" long, with nipples. Those go through the collar, you'll attach the faucets to the front of the shank and your beer lines to the nipples.
 
shank, at least 1.5" longer than your collar thickness
tap, take your pick but remember most places sell the handle seperately
tailpiece, this sould be the same dia as your beerline
washer, fits between the tailpiece and the shank
hex-nut or wing-nut, locks the tailpiece/washer assembly in place
 
I'm looking at the 4 X 3/16 nipple shanks. I understand I don't need the tail piece, but I imagine I still need the nuts and washers?
 
If this shank (see below) comes with the flange (the black bit) and nut, no.

850855


All you need is the faucet and a worm-drive clamp (to hold the beer line onto the nipple).

Bob
 
Hey I just finished building mine. Used the superprod's stuff. Cheapest price, but still pricey. I went w/ 3" shanks. I was only going through a 1"X3" collar. I like 3" shank because it doesn't hang over the top of the kegerator. Cornies are hard to put into the keezer as it is. With a collar and shanks the job becomes even harder. My keezer fits 4 cornies but it is a really tight fit so not having to worry about banging the nips makes it easier for me. Charlie
 
Very informative thread..Got 4 shanks from AHB being delevered today 4 1/4".
I too was wondering about the correct sized hole drill.

So with a 1" hole saw will the shank fit in with very little wiggle room?
 
I can't remember the exact diameter hole I drilled for mine (7/8 I think), but I made sure to use the smallest drill bit I could, then I sanded out the hole with my dremmel so I got a REALLY snug fit (as in, I had to tap the shank in place with a mallet). My taps aren't going anywhere. I did it this way to minimize any air leaks around the shank. Probably overkill.
 
Hey I just finished building mine. Used the superprod's stuff. Cheapest price, but still pricey. I went w/ 3" shanks. I was only going through a 1"X3" collar. I like 3" shank because it doesn't hang over the top of the kegerator. Cornies are hard to put into the keezer as it is. With a collar and shanks the job becomes even harder. My keezer fits 4 cornies but it is a really tight fit so not having to worry about banging the nips makes it easier for me. Charlie

If you have enough shank sticking inside the longer the better, if space is a problem with needing shorter shanks I would add a brass plate like 1/4" thick by 4" wide plus the length of all your taps to pick up the cold and keep your taps nice and cold.
 
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