Just an FYI. I tied into the wiring just below the computer panel which worked great. I then tried to mount the Love controler in centered above the stock panel. Do NOT do this. Mount the Love left justifed with the left side of the stock pannel, or the contoler will hit the left side of the freezer's wall. By left justified I mean the outer shell of the Love controller that you see which is 96mm wide, not the inserted guts that is 71mm wide. This is still extremely close. In my case I had to enlarge the hole I put in the outside and then make a beauty gasket out of 1/4" black PVC.
My New Fermentation Cabinets
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That's great news! Sorry you had the problem with mounting the controller. I'll probably mount mine on the door hinge side like the OP (I'm concerned about temp probe wire).
So, you were able to supply power to the love controller by hooking to the black and white wires coming out of the freezer control - and then you cut the yellow wire coming out of the freezer control and put the love controller switch in line? If that's how you did it, do you have a constant high temp alarm, or can you cancel it?
I realize you could completely cut out the freezer control, but then the door light and defrost wouldn't work.
I did tie into all the wiring just like you said. Black hot, white common, Yellow to compressor.
I was going to do that exact thing your thinking about and tie into the wiring at the bottom hinge where the wiring comes into the door, and this is what you will have to do. From where it enters the door the wiring (in individual strands) wonders around in a nondesignated way to the control pannel. I would say they throw the wiring in and then inject the foam. So there is no definite path to the control pannel to intercept. You either get it near the hinge or near the control pannel.
When I first started I had even torn into the foam near the hinge but I wanted to get my wife involved and asked her where the love would look better. Her answer was near the stock pannel. She was right and I thought shisnit I'll just tie into the wiring on the stock pannel. I simply started cutting before looking real close. Later I tested the set up with the seal off only for a minute but it worked. Currently I'm expando foaming, and caulking the set up and although I'm sure the alarm light will be on, I cant remember 100% if it was. The alarm only sounds 3 beeps and then nothing.... so no big deal. No matter how you tie into the wiring I think it's a good idea to do it where you know the wiring is coming from the door, before it splits and goes into the freezer and then comes out again. When the yellow wire goes into the freezer it is activating the freezer fan motor, which circulates the air. You want the compressor and that fan motor on at the same time.
I was going to do that exact thing your thinking about and tie into the wiring at the bottom hinge where the wiring comes into the door, and this is what you will have to do. From where it enters the door the wiring (in individual strands) wonders around in a nondesignated way to the control pannel. I would say they throw the wiring in and then inject the foam. So there is no definite path to the control pannel to intercept. You either get it near the hinge or near the control pannel.
When I first started I had even torn into the foam near the hinge but I wanted to get my wife involved and asked her where the love would look better. Her answer was near the stock pannel. She was right and I thought shisnit I'll just tie into the wiring on the stock pannel. I simply started cutting before looking real close. Later I tested the set up with the seal off only for a minute but it worked. Currently I'm expando foaming, and caulking the set up and although I'm sure the alarm light will be on, I cant remember 100% if it was. The alarm only sounds 3 beeps and then nothing.... so no big deal. No matter how you tie into the wiring I think it's a good idea to do it where you know the wiring is coming from the door, before it splits and goes into the freezer and then comes out again. When the yellow wire goes into the freezer it is activating the freezer fan motor, which circulates the air. You want the compressor and that fan motor on at the same time.
Refry,
One more thing, by doing the wiring in the door you can run the Love controller while you have the stock controller turned off. Although this elliminates the defrost feature on the stock pannel, it also eliminates the warm alarm. You can then take advantage of the Love controller's defrost feature if you want to.
One more thing, by doing the wiring in the door you can run the Love controller while you have the stock controller turned off. Although this elliminates the defrost feature on the stock pannel, it also eliminates the warm alarm. You can then take advantage of the Love controller's defrost feature if you want to.
That's not a bad plan. So on the Love controller, you jumped the black (hot) to the NO input of the switch (with the COM side of the switch being the yellow wire going to the compressor and fan). I'd thought about powering the Love controller switch with the yellow coming out of the freezer controller (thinking it should stay hot as the temp will stay high and compressor circuit closed). I like your approach better, being able to turn off the freezer controller (interior light should still work if the controller has power).
I'll go ahead locate the wires in the door when I take the shelf panel off.
Regarding the defrost feature, my freezer claims to have a manual defrost feature. First you turn the freezer control to "0" (off) and then hit the down arrow four more times until a "d" is displayed and manual defrost is activated. To turn it off, you just hit the down arrow four more times ("0" is displayed again). That's sweet, if it actually works that way.
Not exactly on the wiring. Hot (black) on pin 7. Common (white) to pin 8. Jump hot (black) from pin 7 to com pin 10. NC output is not used. the compressor hot becomes pin 11 NO out put (yellow). I cut the yellow and tied it directly into the love, making sure to electrical tape the yellow end coming FROM the stock pannel which will still be hot sometimes. The black, and white connections I simply tied into the wires, allowing them to continue on to the stock pannel and run it appropriately. I left the other wires alone.
I think converting the newer freezers is better than the older version as you don't have any unsightly wires running around. Currently I'm cold crashing some beer at 30F and the cold alarm goes off at that temperature. I have yet to put an outlet in but I like that option too.
I'll have to check my instructions on the defrost feature.
I think converting the newer freezers is better than the older version as you don't have any unsightly wires running around. Currently I'm cold crashing some beer at 30F and the cold alarm goes off at that temperature. I have yet to put an outlet in but I like that option too.
I'll have to check my instructions on the defrost feature.
I think that's the typical wiring, running the hot to the COM and line to the compressor on NO.
In order to take advantage of the SPDT output, I am going to connect the yellow from the freezer control to the NC pin 9. I'll jump a hot to the NO pin 11 and use the COM pin 10 for the yellow wire running to the compressor and fan.
This will allow the Love controller to pass through power from the NC to COM when the switch is closed (temp is below Love controller set point on cool setting). When I want (or need) to run the freezer with the defrost cycle using the freezer control, I'll have the freezer control on (so it runs the compressor).
When I want the Love controller to control the temperature (compressor and fan), I'll turn the freezer control off (set it to "0") - so the power to NC is off and the Love controller takes over providing power through the NO and COM.
I agree on the newer freezer being better - I was initially concerned, but since the Love controller can pass power, you can have it work like a traditional freezer with a temp reading with no additional mods (just turn the freezer control on).
Also, you should be able to turn your freezer control off, eliminating the alarm. I have to hit the down arrow a few times for it to go from "1" to "0" (off).
Wow... that seems like a better solution. You retain the stock and the love features without having to rewire if you go back to the freezer being just a freezer... I know I can shut mine down or off... but still haven't checked on the manual defrost feature yet.. This is getting interesting...
OP
OP
Looks like this thread took on a life of its own while I was away.. 
I just found out that one of my freezers didn't seem to make it through the flood.. the compressor won't kick on. Everything else seems fine, but its like the compressor just can't kick on. You can hear it trying, but no luck.
Anyone have any ideas?
I just found out that one of my freezers didn't seem to make it through the flood.. the compressor won't kick on. Everything else seems fine, but its like the compressor just can't kick on. You can hear it trying, but no luck.
Anyone have any ideas?
lutinplunder
Active Member
check the relays and if it has a capacitive starter check that. Other than those your probably right that the compressor took a crap
here's a page that will help you troubleshoot the freezer compressor
http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYcmprtest.htm
here's a page that will help you troubleshoot the freezer compressor
http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYcmprtest.htm
chairbornrangerx
Well-Known Member
dang, did your thread make these things so popular they raised the price?
OP said $49, they are listed now at $77
OP said $49, they are listed now at $77
I know this is an old thread
I just built my cabinet using a Kenmore 12.1 cubic foot freezer it fits my 14 gall Blichmann well.
I used a ST1000 aquarium thermostat for mine so and put a 25watt heat mat inside so i can ramp my temps in the winter
I noticed on the Blichmann site they show putting a airlock mounted on the outside of the door drilling a hole in the door, so you can see fermentation on the outside with out opening door and also to stop door blowing open due to CO2 build up inside the closed cabinet.
My question to anyone that may have also built these. Have you added the external airlock and if not have you noticed the door being pushed open due to CO2 pressure during fermentation.
Thanks
I just built my cabinet using a Kenmore 12.1 cubic foot freezer it fits my 14 gall Blichmann well.
I used a ST1000 aquarium thermostat for mine so and put a 25watt heat mat inside so i can ramp my temps in the winter
I noticed on the Blichmann site they show putting a airlock mounted on the outside of the door drilling a hole in the door, so you can see fermentation on the outside with out opening door and also to stop door blowing open due to CO2 build up inside the closed cabinet.
My question to anyone that may have also built these. Have you added the external airlock and if not have you noticed the door being pushed open due to CO2 pressure during fermentation.
Thanks
Hermit
fuddle
At fermentation temperatures they are cycle defrost anyhow. The defrost thermostat will rarely come into play.
mikew2003
Member
I have the 13 cf Frigidaire models and have never had a problem with CO2 pressure building up. Maybe because there is a drain in the floor below the condenser towards the back that drains into a heated pan under the fridge.
I was thinking that would probably be the case, as this unit has the same sort of drain. The drain, drains to a pan on the top of the condenser.
