Beginner extract brewing howto

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pompeiisneaks

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I noted a recent post:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/why-kit-instructions-so-horrible-99070/

discussing why kit instructions are often so horrible, and many off site links were mentioned. I figured it would be good to have that kind of information here, maybe stickied or on the wiki, so I figured w/ my horrible newb experience, I could write it as simple as possible, and then place it here for some heavy editing/fixing, and then when done, we could use it to point people to a fairly simple but complete list of steps involved in extract kit brewing. This is now the EDITED version after comments, suggestions, fixes, etc. Later in this thread is a re-post of how to do hopped extract brews as well, although this data exists elsewhere as well. Please let me know if you see any further inconsistencies. I'm going to hope for a sticky on this one, so we can get some help for new extract brewers that need a quick list w/ short details to keep their memory fresh.

The simple steps to extract brewing.

1. Sanitize everything you'll be using and keep some kind of bucket/sink/container w/ a gallon or two of sanitizing water so you can re-sanitize anything you're questioning.

2. Prep water. If you are using tap water, it is best to boil it for 15 minutes ahead of time to remove chlorine. Letting it cool will also let the harder minerals drop out. But you may want these in your flavoring.

3. For Specialty Grain kits, specialty grains will come w/ a bag and grains. You'll need to crush the grains w/ a rolling pin prior to putting them in a bag and steeping for 30 minutes at 155 degrees F. This creates a "tea" for added flavors to the final beer.

4. Bring the water to a boil. Remove the boiling water from the stove, to avoid a boilover. Mix in some (see Late Malt Additions Note at the end of this section) or all of the malt extract into boiling water slowly and mix well (if you don't mix well you can get scorching of the extracts). Put back on heat and boil for the designated time (usually 60 minutes), watch closely to avoid a boilover so as to avoid a sticky mess. Also at this time add the bittering hops at the start of the boil w/ the malt(s). Late Malt Additions Note: You do not need to boil all of the extract if you're doing a lighter colored beer or a heavy alcohol (big) beer. This can cause darker colors and even add flavors not wanted. Late extract additions to complete the malt bill can be added the last few minutes of the boil (1-5). For more detail search this forum or elsewhere for late malt extract additions.

5. The last 5-15 minutes of the hour boil will require addition of finishing hops (if any).

6. Cool the wort to yeast pitching temperature, and transfer to your fermenter. Take a sample out for testing the Original Specific Gravity with a hydrometer. (this is the only way you can be positive fermentation has completed) You can then pitch your yeast. To pitch the yeast, read the yeast packets instructions, and this will always work. Dry yeasts usually require mixing w/ warm water for 15 mins, gently stir, then you can pitch the yeast. (Pitching is the "mixing" of yeast w/ the cooled wort)

7. After fermentation is complete (from checking that the Specific Gravity has not changed at all for several days, but can vary anywhere from 10 days to several weeks) after a week or so, you can transfer to a secondary fermenter if you feel the need (this is all brewer preference), or leave in the primary until you're 100% sure the fermentation is done... again the ONLY way to know its done is that the SG readings remain consistent for several days in a row. If you're unsure it will never hurt to leave it in the fermenter for a few more days to a week.

8. Bottle. Bottling requires that you create a corn sugar mixture to add to the fermented beer so that it will carbonate in the bottles. Take the corn sugar, boil, and then add to the bottling pail/carboy. Transfer the beer carefully from the fermenter to the sugar water container making sure to NOT oxygenate the beer at all. Again remember to sanitize everything as mentioned before. Before you put any beer in bottles, make SURE the bottles are sanitized as well!! Use a bottling cane to allow easy bottling, and keep the tube all the way to the bottom and pull out when the bottle fills, this will leave enough headroom for the carbonation to build and yet not cause the bottle to explode. Whenever transferring w/ a racking cane or tube, remember to never use your mouth to create the siphon. It contains bacteria too that are bad for beer. Use an Auto-Siphon, or if you have none, fill up the tube w/ sanitary water, and let that start draining into the sink/some waste bucket until beer comes through, then pinch the tube and move it to the next container for bottling or the bottles themselves.
 
Well, I'm a noob too so bare with me. The process for them is the same but with a Partial Mash you are actually using base grains to convert starches to sugars just like an All Grain method but are using a smaller bill of gains and using less extract to makeup the rest of the wort.

Specialty grains do not contribute to the fermentable sugars but instead infuse color, flavor and aroma.

Please anyone jump in if I'm confused (which is likely).
 
I have never had one burn.
You are only steeping at around 155 F. You also should be stirring every so often to get the bag off of the bottom.
You can also buy a small metal colander and place that on the bottom of the pot so your grain bag sits on it instead of the bottom of the pot. I really don't think you need to though.
 
One thing I didn't adhere to when I just finished my first batch was the hydration of the yeast. I just pitched the dry yeast directly into the cooled wort (~70 deg). That won't cause any problems will it?
 
One thing I didn't adhere to when I just finished my first batch was the hydration of the yeast. I just pitched the dry yeast directly into the cooled wort (~70 deg). That won't cause any problems will it?


I just sprinkle the yeast on top of the cooled wort and let it sit for ten minutes then slowly stir in.


You will be fine. RDWHAHB
 
Guys, remember this is a simple howto, to give you a nice list of what to remember when doing brews... If you have detailed questions, put them in a new thread or search for similar threads... That will keep this thread limited to the topic it was stickied for ;)
 
I was reading "how to brew" by Palmer and saw that he mentions both adding the extract to boiling water, and also disolving the extract in cold water and then bring to a boil...

Is there any difference between to two methods? (I use purified/bottled water)
 
Either works, you could possibly scorch the extract in the boiling water, but that's why you'd pull it off the heat for a minute while adding. Adding to cold water would work but is much harder to avoid clumping etc. The hot water dissolves the dry or liquid extract much more rapidly/readily.
 
ok, do I steep the grains over low heat to keep it at 160 or do I leave it off the stove to steep and hope it stays at the correct temp?
 
ok, do I steep the grains over low heat to keep it at 160 or do I leave it off the stove to steep and hope it stays at the correct temp?

You can turn off the burner, and cover the pot, and it should stay between 150-160 degrees for the entire steep. You don't want to go over that temperature.
 
When adding the conditioning sugar solution for bottling, should it be cooled before adding to the bottling bucket as you would cool your wort prior to adding to the fermenter?
 
When adding the conditioning sugar solution for bottling, should it be cooled before adding to the bottling bucket as you would cool your wort prior to adding to the fermenter?

It really doesn't matter. People have argued about it incessantly forever, but it doesnt really matter. Remember that couple cups of boiling liquid is going to be falling through space into your bottling bucket which SHOULD have a bit of sanitizer still in the bottom, that combination alone is going to rapidly cool the priming solution, then immediately 5 gallons of room temp liquid is going to be dumped on top of that. It isn't going to be hot for too long anyway.

You can also begin the flow of beer into the bucket and dump your priming solution onto that which will cool the little bit of solution.

Or you can wait 5 or 10 minutes before racking it in, I have it worked into my bottling process (as outlined here https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/bottling-tips-homebrewer-94812/) where it sits on my stove for about 5-10 minutes while I sanitize the last half of my bottles.

But really it doesn't matter.
 
It really doesn't matter. People have argued about it incessantly forever, but it doesnt really matter. Remember that couple cups of boiling liquid is going to be falling through space into your bottling bucket which SHOULD have a bit of sanitizer still in the bottom, that combination alone is going to rapidly cool the priming solution, then immediately 5 gallons of room temp liquid is going to be dumped on top of that. It isn't going to be hot for too long anyway.

You can also begin the flow of beer into the bucket and dump your priming solution onto that which will cool the little bit of solution.

Or you can wait 5 or 10 minutes before racking it in, I have it worked into my bottling process (as outlined here https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/bottling-tips-homebrewer-94812/) where it sits on my stove for about 5-10 minutes while I sanitize the last half of my bottles.

But really it doesn't matter.

I agree w revvy, do it a way that feels best to you, and if it works don't fix it. When I used to bottle, I'd cool it down. But that's just me. :)
 
What would you say is the ideal temperature range during fermentation and also for bottle conditioning? I understand stability is also key. The instructions that came with my kit (Oatmeal Stout) does not reference fermentation and say 'room temperature' after bottling...

Thank you
 
Google fermentation temps for whatever yeast strain came with your kit. Some like it low, some like it lower. In general, you want low 60's for ambient temp, the yeast inside create more heat and you want to keep that below 70 degrees. This is most important for the first 3 or 4 days of fermentation when the bulk of the work is done by the yeast.
 
So it's all about the yeast, huh? It's a Nottingham and says between 57-70, so from the time I pitch the yeast till the time I chill the bottles before drinking, this is the ideal temp range I'm looking for, good to know, Thanks!
 
If i brew first batch on monday that is if the company i ordered from sent it out on fri but if i do it will take approx one week for primary fermintation and then i transfer into secondary dor 2 to 4 weeks then to bottling how long will it take to bottle condition approx???
 
If i brew first batch on monday that is if the company i ordered from sent it out on fri but if i do it will take approx one week for primary fermintation and then i transfer into secondary dor 2 to 4 weeks then to bottling how long will it take to bottle condition approx???

It usually takes about 3 weeks at 70 degrees for them to be carbed up fully and ready to drink, more or less.
 
summers1 said:
so my beer is fermenting in the primary fermenter and was wondering when switching to the second while im using my auto siphon can i also put cheese cloth over my carboys top to catch more of the stuff at the bottom? or do i need some of that to fall in.

You don't want to pour the beer from the top in. the beer should flow into the bottom without splashing. Oxidation is not your friend. Just transfer it all at once.
 
First a disclaimer. I have been home brewing for about 1 year. I started with extract, moved into partial mash, and am on batch 4 of all grain. All in all, I have brewed 50 odd gallons with extract/partial mash and 20 gallons in all grain. I have not had to dump a single batch and 95% of the time I have been really pleased, if not surprised, with what I was able to produced (my friends too!). This is definitely one of the most enjoyable and rewarding hobbies I have ever had.. So, while I am not an expert and do not profess to be one... I started a mental list a while back of things I learned along the way and finally got around to putting them down.

Hopefully, we can get a good thread going for our newer members, I did a couple searches and didn't find anything similar to this.

Getting Started
1) Before you jump in, get a book, heck get several books. Read them, understand the process and the basic science behind brewing beer. If you prefer simple approach, start with The Complete Joy of Home Brewing by Charles Papazian. If you prefer a more technical book, start with How to Brew, by John Palmer. If you prefer a very technical book, I enjoyed Brewing by Michael Lewis and Tom Young.

2) Join a local home brew club, bring a couple 6ers of your favorite brew. Ask if you can join one of them in a brewing session and see their setup. Nothing beats hands on experience or a mentor. You’ll find most people are more than willing to help you get started and share what they have learned.

3) When in doubt, search the appropriate forums here, use a single word to increase the relevancy of the results, I use google to search for entire phrases with better results.... If nothing else, then post a question and you’ll likely get some great advice within a few minutes.

4) Get to know your options for your Local Home Brew Shop (LHBS). Some are great, some are not so great… Stop in, check out the shop, get to know the owner, ask some questions… I have two in my area and frequent both for different reasons.

5) No matter how much you rationalize this, you are NOT saving money. This is a hobby and like all hobbies, it has a cost. The cost of the basic equipment alone would take dozens of brew sessions to recoup the cost, while not even factoring in the time commitment. Do it because you love beer and want to know more about how it is made.

Equipment
1) You can purchase a basic extract equipment kit from several retailers on line or from your LHBS. The LHBS will usually be more expensive than a on-line retailer, but factor in shipping and it may come out the same. Alternatively, you can piece it together yourself if you have the time and save a few more $.

2) I would recommend that one start with extract, then try partial mash, before you make the leap into all grain. 1) it is cheaper and you will be out less $ in equipment if the hobby doesn’t take root and 2) you will gain valuable experience along the way.

3) Two must haves in any setup : 1) Wort Chiller – you can let your wort chill overnight or in an ice bath, both do work with good results. However, you are increasing your chances of infection. 2) Secondary Fermenter – Technically, we typically do not do a secondary fermentation. Simply put, this is another vessel in which you can transfer your beer into and leave behind trub, hot break, hops, yeast cake, etc that will create off flavors. This was the single best thing I did, which improved the quality and clarity of my beer. Sanitize and transfer 5-7 days after your initial yeast pitch, or when the bubbles from your airlock have slowed to every 30-60 seconds. I prefer stainless, glass, and plastic in that order for my fermenters, but better bottles and food grade plastic pales work just as well. However, over time they can scratch, which provides great spots for bacteria to evade your sanitization efforts.

4) Airlock – this is only to keep out unwanted bacteria and wild yeast, it cannot tell you if fermentation is complete. DO NOT TRUST THE BUBBLES (or lack thereof)!

5) Hydrometer – Measure gravity often, it is the key to understanding where you are in the brewing process… If you are doing a full boil extract beer, I would measure gravity before you start adding hops. If you are doing a partial boil, measure it as you add increments (e.g., ½ - 1 gal) of your top off water. Nothing is worse than a thin beer! If you are post-boil, discard the sample and DO NOT add it back. Hydrometers are fragile and often inaccurate. Calibrate it with distilled water and never put it in boiling wort. I prefer a refractometer.

6) Refreactometer – Uses a fraction of the wort a hydrometer does, often much more accurate, and you can pick up one off eBay for the same price as a hydrometer.

7) When you get new equipment, do a test run with it before you use it for real. For example, I picked up a pump and a plate chiller. I practiced moving water around before I used it in a brew session.

Brew Day
1) Kits are a great way to start. For example, Brewer’s Best makes very simple, easy to read and understand, and provides a list of ALL the ingredients; they usually run $35-45. Some on-line retailers and LHBS sell kits, but will not tell you the ingredients because it is “proprietary”.

2) Start a brew log. Either write everything down, follow the provided directions, or use some software (BeerSmith, Beer Tools Pro, etc.). Document any deviations or corrections. This is the best way to identify ways to improve over time or figure out what you did wrong.

3) Give yourself enough time and don’t start brewing at 8pm at night (I did once and finished at 2am). For extract, from sanitization to clean-up, it would take about 3 hours for me based on my setup. For all grain, this went up to 5-6 hours.

4) For partial mash or all grain, do not start your hops cycle as soon as you reach your boil. Measure your gravity, you may need to boil down a bit to hit your pre-boil gravity target. This will help ensure you end closer to your target gravity without impacting your hops utilization, at the sacrifice of little volume and maybe a darker color (maillard reaction) and some carmelization.

5) For All Grain: Group buys are a GREAT way to cut your ingredient costs by ½! I am now brewing beer for less than $5 a gallon!

6) Boiling removes all oxygen from your wort. As most off flavors are generated during the lag phase (1st phase) of yeast growth, it is important to keep them happy. To do this, you should aerate your wort after it has chilled... If you add oxygen while it is still hot or even warm (100+) you will oxidate your beer, causing off flavors (mostly old cardboard taste). To oxygenate you can do three things: 1) shake or roll it for a few minutes in the carboy 2) Use a aquarium pump, hepa filter, and aeration stone for 15 min or 3) pure oxygen and a aeration stone for 1-2 min.

Most importantly, have fun…
 
When priming the beer to bottle, does it really make a difference between using DME or corn sugar? Would use DME add to the flavor, mouthful, aroma, etc at all?

Thanks!
 
I just brewed my first beer today and it is safely in my primary frementor I just have a couple of questions. If frementation is complete then why bother with a secondary frementor. Also how long in secondary. And finally when it comes time to bottling how much corn sugar and water solution do I use for a 5 gallon batch.
 
You never need a secondary, unless you're adding dry hops or other additions like fruit, etc after primary fermentation completes, or you're going to bulk age a bigger beer for longer than say a month. As far a priming sugar, I forget how much for a 5 gallon batch, but search the forum here, its been discussed before.
 
When priming the beer to bottle, does it really make a difference between using DME or corn sugar? Would use DME add to the flavor, mouthful, aroma, etc at all?

Thanks!
 
When priming the beer to bottle, does it really make a difference between using DME or corn sugar? Would use DME add to the flavor, mouthful, aroma, etc at all?

Thanks!

Sugar is sugar, but dme, I think, is a bit harder/slower to ferment, thus why corn sugar is used for a bit quicker carb, I believe.
 
pompeii, since you want to keep this simple I think I may be able to help. If I'm overstepping my bounds just let me know and I'll delete the post, but I did a basic pictorial thread about brewing extract and I also made a video out of it. The video is more basic than the thread.

How to brew extract (with pictures!)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Awesome video man! Gets me excited to start my very 1st batch in about 3-4 weeks once school is over for 4 months :mug:

Thanks. Like I stated when I posted it, the video has simplified instructions. I went into more detail in the thread, so if you want to delve deeper into it just read the thread. The pictures are included in the thread as well.
 
Hi everyone,

I just made my first batch last night using the starter kit from Midwest Supplies. After cooling my wort and adding the yeast, I transfered it to the 6.5 gallon plastic fermenter with an airlock. It's been about 12 hours and I'm seeing some bubbles in the airlock so it looks like it's fermenting. My question is, the kit also came with a 6.5 gallon bottling bucket with a spigot. When do I transfer my beer to the bottling bucket? I do know that when the time comes, I have to siphon it and add the priming sugar. Also, once my beer is transfered to the bottling bucket, do I let it sit for a longer period of time or do I immediately bottle the beer? Thanks for any help.

You'll want to move to the bottling bucket and bottle in approx 3 weeks. I would wait 2.5 weeks then take a hydrometer sample, record the reading. Wait another 3 days and take another reading. If it's stable (and somewhat near the predicted final gravity), then you can bottle.

Exactly how long you leave it in the primary is very dependent on OG and style so do some searching specific to your recipe, but I would ALWAYS leave it in the primary for a minimum of 2 weeks, more is better.

Once you rack it to the bottling bucket (and add in the priming sugar solution), you'll want to bottle it immediately. Be careful when racking and try to minimize racking over any trub that'll be caked to the bottom.

AND CONGRATS it sounds like your first batch is coming along quite fine. In about 5 weeks you'll have some delicious beer bottled, conditioned, and ready to share :ban::ban:
 
First off congrats on the first batch,

The rule I follow is when the airlock is bubbling once every 2 minutes or so it's time to transfer. Once you mix in the priming sugar, you should bottle right away. Make sure to minimize the contact with air, so keep the siphon discharge end submerged when going to the bottling bucket and into the bottles. Bottling wands are great for this and relatively cheap. Leave as little air in the bottles as possible too, I made the mistake my first time trying to make too many bottles and it cost me.

Transfer to the bottling bucket while the airlock is bubbling once every couple minutes? I would really recommend against this. Bottling while there is still active fermentation is a recipe for bottle bombs :drunk:

Some folks use that rule to transfer to the secondary (if they're using a secondary) :rockin:
 

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