Bucks Electric Brewery

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What a cool project... So by the looks of it those Process chillers can control the temperatures in both directions (heat or chill depending on season)? Also do you control the temperature directly on the unit (simply just hook up the inputs/outputs) or do you have some sort of secondary temperature readings within the conicals that help regulate the units?


I control loop temp which is +/- 3 degrees. Then I adjust the loop temp using a probe in the fermenter.
 
I am interested in the dishwasher water heater and how well it works. It must be inline. How much power does it take? Can it handle the high pressure and the chemicals? What CIP chemicals are you using?
 
I am interested in the dishwasher water heater and how well it works. It must be inline. How much power does it take? Can it handle the high pressure and the chemicals? What CIP chemicals are you using?


The heater is between the blue hose on the bottom of the pump. It's a 1.25" stainless tube with heating coil around it. Those blue hoses are silicone 1.25 to 1.0 radiator hoses. It's 1500w at 120v.

I'm using super cip and acid #5, but will be using PBW as a everyday cleaner.
 
Awesome -- and how noisy are those Process Chillers --- Was thinking about setting it up in my Apartment to regulate temperature so I don't have to keep the thermostat on all day but don't want to if it's pretty noisy.

Thanks
 
Awesome -- and how noisy are those Process Chillers --- Was thinking about setting it up in my Apartment to regulate temperature so I don't have to keep the thermostat on all day but don't want to if it's pretty noisy.



Thanks


Not noisy, sounds like a fan running.
 
seriously this thing is rad, brother. Sad to say I was in Pitt last weekend burying my 100 year old Gramps.

Quick Question. I'm looking for a moisture/liquid sensor that threads into a 1/2npt ferrule for a hmmm... 15Gallon enclosed kettle (no cuts other than wash inlet, heating element, temp probe, and spot for this). I want to wire this probe to the SSR control line so when the wash level reaches below the probe the element is automagically turned off (for the sake of not burning elements out etc. Do you have any ideas? Again, I won't have access to the inside of the kettle except for a 2 inch opening so putting a nut on the inside won't work.

I was envisioning something similar to a temp probe if you need a point of reference.
 
How much do you have invested in this amazing system? I literally wet myself with excitement when I saw the first few images. This is definitely Chemical Engineering pron and I'm a ChemE.
 
After brewing 5 batches, I'm going to remove the herms heat exchanger and stick with the 3000w inverted rims tube I installed on the MLT recirc line. It's much faster and the two PID loops are fighting each other. Also the mass flowmeter on the drain of the BK is being moved to the HLT loop. I have a smaller portable MFM I use to monitor gravity, temp and a totalizer.

May take the herms heat exchanger and use it as a wort chiller to supplement the main chiller.

Well got my 1st overhaul to look forward to!
 
After brewing 5 batches, I'm going to remove the herms heat exchanger and stick with the 3000w inverted rims tube I installed on the MLT recirc line. It's much faster and the two PID loops are fighting each other. Also the mass flowmeter on the drain of the BK is being moved to the HLT loop. I have a smaller portable MFM I use to monitor gravity, temp and a totalizer.

May take the herms heat exchanger and use it as a wort chiller to supplement the main chiller.

Well got my 1st overhaul to look forward to!

I had to do a crap ton of mods when I built mine. I'd like to replace all the valves with pneumatic ones and do some rewiring.

I like the plan of using the herms tube as a secondary chiller.
 
What is that wort analyzer that you have? How would one get ahold of that beaut?
 
quick question -- What tubing do you use for the Multi-temp III? I want to make sure to get something non-kink and then assuming you just connect it to a tri clamp barb?

Thanks
 
quick question -- What tubing do you use for the Multi-temp III? I want to make sure to get something non-kink and then assuming you just connect it to a tri clamp barb?



Thanks


I used 3/8 ID air hose from Harbor Freight. Just cut it to the size I needed. The back of the Chiller has barbs, so just clamped it on and used Swagelok quick connects for the fermenter side. Once insulated I have had the hoses down to -5c. They are stiff and I wouldn't make any large moves that might crack them but they work.

Really dont need sanitary connections on CW loop.
 
so are you using one of your thermobaths to cool the chill side of the plate chiller or am i missing gaps here? Also, what's the purpose of the hoses to -5? Just a test or ??
 
so are you using one of your thermobaths to cool the chill side of the plate chiller or am i missing gaps here? Also, what's the purpose of the hoses to -5? Just a test or ??


This is for the fermenters, not the wort plate chiller. I went down to -5 to lager. Not linear, at 63f I have to set the loop to 56f and at 34f I set it at -5c.
 
do-want-meme.jpg
 
Nice!

Well to update, I've got about 15 batches on this and all is well.

I'm working on using a mass flow meter to monitor fermentation. Results to follow.
 
Neat to see your builds. For flow meters you can use a Mag Flowmeter as well such as the one IFM Efector has they are not too pricey. Also I have had very good luck for level controlling using in pressure Xducers in the inches of water range. Modern Breweries use them.
For connecting to an element I would suggest a Nickel alloy connector and nickel-plated copper conductor with braided fiberglass insulation. That is what your oven has at 700 plus degrees. Regular copper gains resistance when connected to a heater. Only a ft or so at the connecting end is needed. Keep up the Good work. :)
 
Resurrecting the thread: what kind of level meter are you using? Or that float is just a switch?
 
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