SMaSH recipe, drinkable?

I will be trying a SMaSH (single malt and single hop) beer tomorrow with what I have left from a recipe I did a few weeks ago, I am afraid to let the crushed grains get too old.

It is for a 2.25 gallon recipe:

5 lbs 2 row @ 150 for 60
.5 oz cascade @60
.25 oz cascade @30
.25 oz cascade @15
Safale 05


Will this produce a drinkable beer?

It will probably surprise you...all the smash beers I've done have been some of the best beers...

I've done this with Simcoe and 2-row and had one of my best beers, although I've only been brewing for about 8 months. To my surprise, I found that Simcoe wasn't available at my LHBS a couple weeks ago, so I decided to use Cascade for the same (this is now in my primary). I used the same hop schedule and hope to produce another good beer.

For a hoppy IPA type, which I assume you're shooting for, try doing a first wort hop addition (search threads if you're not sure of this). Then do a 20, 15, 10, 5, and 0 minute addition, followed by some good dry hops.

This is only my opinion, but I was not disappointed with my Simcoe SMaSH. Next, I'll be trying the same with Amarillo.

The easy way to find out is to go to brewmasterswarehouse.com and use their brew builder.

jgerard said:

I am afraid to let the crushed grains get too old.

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I recently brewed a SMaSH ale from Golden Promise malt that had been crushed for over a year, and the beer turned out great. As long as it doesn't get invaded by critters, crushed malt should be fine for several months.

Recipe looks tasty.

If you don't drink it , I will!

Is that a 5 gallon recipe?

I am doing my first SMaSH this week. I am getting a hold of some wet cascades and going to use marris otter. I am just going to late hop the bajeezus about of it. I really like these simple brews. I think it speeds up the learning process for me. Knowing what does what in a beer. You might want to do a 5 gal tho!

I'm currently drinking my Munich and Cascade SMaSH... it's great. The fun is just trying different things.

hough77 said:

Is that a 5 gallon recipe?

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It is a 2.25 gallon recipe

Beezy said:

You might want to do a 5 gal tho!

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QFT. I can't justify brewing less than 4 gallons at a time. My equipment is optimized for 5 gallons, though, and brewing less is only so I can grow yeast. Your situation may be different. I just hate to waste effort when a larger batch has such a tiny marginal cost.

I've done straight Cascade beers before and the best ones were those with a very high ratio of late-to-early hop additions. I don't know if Palmer is _the_ authority on hops, but there's probably a reason why How to Brew has Cascade listed as an aroma hop and not a bittering one.

I use cascade to bitter all the time(not literally). I've brewed many a pale solely with cascade too, although always with some c60 or carapils, so not a smash. Great beers tho.

944play said:

QFT. I can't justify brewing less than 4 gallons at a time. My equipment is optimized for 5 gallons, though, and brewing less is only so I can grow yeast. Your situation may be different. I just hate to waste effort when a larger batch has such a tiny marginal cost.

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Yea I have college setting brewing capabilities.

jgerard said:

Yea I have college setting brewing capabilities.

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College? You should be doing 20 gallons then

Oops, looks like I have safbrew 33, not 05.

smash rocks, sounds hoppy

Would using .5oz@ 60 cascade, .25@ 30, and dryhopping w the last .25 work better? I'm not a huge hophead..

Mashing out now! Plz help

Yes

In general, the earlier you add, the high AA extraction (bitterness). The later you add, the more aroma contribution.

Tastes great! I will try a different hop next time, not sure what though