First Kegerator Build

I pick up one of these for $30 on Craigslist with the intent of converting it to a kegerator. (Danby dar452bl) I've found resources to help along the way but I figured I would come here to solicit advice.


Being my first build, I'm a bit naive to the process but I'm pretty handy.
My concerns were about the logistics of the system. I want to do this as cheaply as possible so purchasing a complete system is my last option.

My questions/concerns:
- Where is the best place to find cheap components?
- Is the PVC tower acceptable in lieu of a stainless one?
- I would like the option to use with purchased beer, do commercial brewers use different 5 gallon kegs than the HB Corny?
- Anyone have any extra equipment they want to sell/ get rid of ?
- Any essential advice or mistakes to avoid?
- Links to resources?

Thanks in advance for the input, I'm looking forward to never bottling again!

buckeyejb said:

I pick up one of these for $30 on Craigslist with the intent of converting it to a kegerator. (Danby dar452bl) I've found resources to help along the way but I figured I would come here to solicit advice.


Being my first build, I'm a bit naive to the process but I'm pretty handy.
My concerns were about the logistics of the system. I want to do this as cheaply as possible so purchasing a complete system is my last option.

My questions/concerns:
- Where is the best place to find cheap components?
- Is the PVC tower acceptable in lieu of a stainless one?
- I would like the option to use with purchased beer, do commercial brewers use different 5 gallon kegs than the HB Corny?
- Anyone have any extra equipment they want to sell/ get rid of ?
- Any essential advice or mistakes to avoid?
- Links to resources?

Thanks in advance for the input, I'm looking forward to never bottling again!

Click to expand...

Well, cheap is a relative term. But if you are buying either Home Depot or Lowe's will do.

Is a PVC tower acceptable, sure. May not look are pleasing as a brass or SS tower. However, PVC allows for more customization I suppose.

Commercial breweries use typically a "D" type sankey tap and homebrewers use either pin lock or ball lock corny kegs. So you would need two different connections for that.

My advice to you would be to find a chest freezer. You will eventually want to have more than one or two taps and your buy, while a good one, wont fit them. I personally found a beast of a chest freezer on CL after a month of patience.

A great resource is right here on the DIY forum of HBT. Many of us here all build our own and have great ideas, advice, and resources.

Nice find for $30. I got a similar model (DAR482BLS) with the plastic top trim (made for mounting trim rails very easy... just used 3 18" stainless drawer pulls), and stainless door for $109. I picked up a tower from keg cowboy here on this site, but had considered building the plastic tower and just painting it.

I contacted danby via email and they told me where the internal coils where located. (none in top on the DAR482BLS) Tap tower did need to be mounted towards the back since temp controller in just about dead center.

I used a Cheap Harbor Freight hole saw set (used largest 2.5" hole saw in set). Get some 3 in 1 oil and keep cutting area & blade well lubed and you should cut through no problem.

I did sleeve my beer lines in 1/2" copper pipe and ran that up into tower to keep inside of tower cool. seems to be working well. 5' 1/2" copper pipe was only a few bucks cut in half filed edges smooth after cutting so it wouldnt damage beer line.

Inside door shelves are removed very easily, replaced with Plexiglass. pretty sure foam insulation would get moldy if it wasn't covered.

I have room for 2 ball lock kegs (not sure 2 pin locks would fit as they are a bit wider) a 5lb co2 tank with a 3 gauge 2 pressure regulator and an extra 20oz paintball tank as back up all stored in the fridge. CO2 needs to be bungied in as it keeps wanting to tip over but small bungies hook right into the shelf mount slots.

thanks for the tips, i disassembled the fridge and it seems fairly straightforward. The cooling mechanism lines the back so no worries about drilling in to the top. I think I'll try the plastic tower, keeping my eyes out for parts.

I'll post pic's when I get up and running

Finally got the ball rolling on this after the grind of the holidays.

2 corny kegs fit snugly, I had hoped to use one side for a commercial brew but with the added 1/4 in the width of the commercial keg, there's no way it fits in there with a corny. Not a big deal, I'll just have to brew more!

Pic of the cleared out inside.



I had to cut the molded plastic that held up the bottom shelf. A sharp utility knife cut like butter once you plunged it in. I think I'll need to cover those up with some tape or something

http://picasaweb.google.com/breenjo...key=Gv1sRgCNi03MyewMCMugE#5560368516052784994

The door, I ended up using a fluorescent light cover for a dropped ceiling and sprayed it with some black paint. It actually turned out nice but the plastic was tricky to cut.

http://picasaweb.google.com/breenjo...key=Gv1sRgCNi03MyewMCMugE#5560368364249944482

I cut off the shelve that was in there and it may be useful for something?

http://picasaweb.google.com/breenjo...key=Gv1sRgCNi03MyewMCMugE#5560368462266258354

Is this OK?

http://picasaweb.google.com/breenjo...key=Gv1sRgCNi03MyewMCMugE#5560368516052784994

As far as parts, I found a local company that refurbs cornys, I picked up 2 for $50 bucks. Also found a 5 lb CO2 tank for $50 on sale.
Keg Cowboy really does have the best prices! My draft tower is en route, I know what I'll be hacking away at next weekend.

(Anyone know why I can't post pics directly in my post?)

Cheers!

Pic of the inside that was dropped out.

http://picasaweb.google.com/breenjo...key=Gv1sRgCNi03MyewMCMugE#5560368516052784994

I've been told to keep co2 upright. looks like were using a similar fridge. I had to use some bungees to keep co2 upright. but works fine.

starrfish said:

I've been told to keep co2 upright.

Click to expand...

+1

I think the reason: Under pressure, CO2 is part liquid, part gas. You want to pressurize with the gas, and it draws from the spigot at the top of the canister, so you have to keep the tank upright so it will use the gas not the liquid. Hopefully that isn't too far off-base.

CorneliusAlphonse said:

+1

I think the reason: Under pressure, CO2 is part liquid, part gas. You want to pressurize with the gas, and it draws from the spigot at the top of the canister, so you have to keep the tank upright so it will use the gas not the liquid. Hopefully that isn't too far off-base.

Click to expand...

Nope, thats about right actually. Other reason is to prevent the valve from being broken off by it accidentally rolling around.

starrfish said:

I did sleeve my beer lines in 1/2" copper pipe and ran that up into tower to keep inside of tower cool. seems to be working well. 5' 1/2" copper pipe was only a few bucks cut in half filed edges smooth after cutting so it wouldnt damage beer line.

Click to expand...

I was thinking about doing this. I'm guessing the copper pipe would slide up into the tower. How did you get get it to stay in place?

Did you add any more insulation to the inside the tower?

Every teacher loves having a snowday! I had an extra bonus when my shipment from the keg cowboy arrived. If I can only find a way to get rid of my 3 and 1 year old today I could do some serious work on the fridge.

A few more pics:

Used some foil tape to seal off the area I had to cut out. Not sure if this is the best solution but I figured if I used it one my duct work to keep air in the duct's, it would seal up the inside.

http://picasaweb.google.com/breenjo...key=Gv1sRgCNi03MyewMCMugE#5560984381559587362

http://picasaweb.google.com/breenjo...key=Gv1sRgCNi03MyewMCMugE#5560984431406364578

This is the manifold and the tower

http://picasaweb.google.com/breenjo...key=Gv1sRgCNi03MyewMCMugE#5560984483438196754

http://picasaweb.google.com/breenjo...key=Gv1sRgCNi03MyewMCMugE#5560984537649252738

cost of the build so far:

Fridge $30 on CL

Tank $50

Tower & $180
gauges

Plexiglass $ 4

Paint & Free- on hand
Tape
________
$264

I could have some money by building the tower out of pvc but I figured by the time I bought the faucets and elbows the cost savings would have been nominal. I used the time I saved to brew a batch of IPA!

I just zip tied the 2 copper pipes together and slid up into tower. current insulation seemed to be enough to hold pipes in place with no sliding and the tower hasn't sweated yet. pipes run almost down to rear small shelf where co2 is stored so even if they move down it will only be an inch or so. Also bungied pipes to the back of fridge unit on the shelf mounting bracket. I've been meaning to post some pics, I'll try to post some tonight.

copper runs up to fittings should give a good idea of set up. send PM if you need more pics.