Yeast Starter in an Erlenmeyer Flask

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brackbrew

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Ever since I began using yeast starters, I've made them in Erlenmeyer flasks. However, it doesn't seem to matter how or when I try to add the extract (usually using a funnel), it always clumps up in the "delivery device" and causes problems.

I guess what I'm trying to ask is...does anybody have a good way to add DME to an Erlenmeyer flask with heating water, without it clumping, etc?!

Thanks.
 
Hm, I always weigh the DME on a piece of aluminum foil then curl it into a funnel.
 
I add DME before heating the water too. If you have a stir-plate, use it to stir-up the solution prior to boiling. Stir bars can be boiled.
 
Thanks for all the replies! I'll try that on my next batch. I've also read from a few different sources that people also add hops to a starter for anti-septic qualities. Anybody think that is really necessary?...
 
Are they ceramic magnets? I'd assume they are for cost savings. If so, then I'd be careful about heating and cooling them repeatedly since it will de-magnetize them.

Teflon-coated magnets.
 
I've been boiling in a separate pot then pouring the wort into the flask. When boiling directly in the flask I'd use a funnel and pour small amounts and shake the crap out of the flask so that it would dissolve quicker. :mug:
 
I've also read from a few different sources that people also add hops to a starter for anti-septic qualities. Anybody think that is really necessary?...

Waste of hops.

Follow up question, though: what are some methods for avoiding boilovers in a flask aside from fermcap? I am always boiling over when I boil in the flask...
 
Well, yes, but the magnets themselves are probably ceramic. I don't boil mine, just to be safe.

Yep, but I have done it over and over and they have yet to demagnetize. The day they do, I'll buy a new one. Hasn't come up yet.
 
Waste of hops.

Follow up question, though: what are some methods for avoiding boilovers in a flask aside from fermcap? I am always boiling over when I boil in the flask...

I add the DME first and then add water, slowly and stirring vigorously, until I have the proper starter volume. It was a bit of a pain the other day because our water has been very aerated. But I had no clumps because I took my time. I also added 1/4 tsp. yeast nutrient. As far as boil overs go I just keep my heat low and once it gets to a more vigorous boil I lower the heat, even take it off the burner for a minute. But I kept it slow and watched it like a hawk.

I would like to try fermcap though.
 
Hmmm...wondering why people add DME, stir well, then heat it all up. I usually just add DME (as 944 does: measure on a sheet of paper then curl into a funnel), add water, then put on stove. As it's heating it always seems to mix itself up fine. By the time it boils it's always a pretty uniform mixture.

Seems like it just eliminates a step. But maybe I'm missing something?

Oh yeah, and Fermcap+low temps usually work for me. But I still get the occasional boil over. Might have to move to a larger flask.
 
are you putting direct flame on the flasks? i have read this should not be done ever, even though they are boro silicate glass or whatever? i wanted to do it this way but from what i read they can spontaneously explode even if most of the time they won't. anyone confirm or deny?
 
Actually most flasks are designed for direct flame in the lab. Like a bunsen burner. It's the coils on electric stove eyes that are not good, without a trivet underneath.
 
Hmmm...wondering why people add DME, stir well, then heat it all up. I usually just add DME (as 944 does: measure on a sheet of paper then curl into a funnel), add water, then put on stove. As it's heating it always seems to mix itself up fine. By the time it boils it's always a pretty uniform mixture.

Seems like it just eliminates a step. But maybe I'm missing something?

Oh yeah, and Fermcap+low temps usually work for me. But I still get the occasional boil over. Might have to move to a larger flask.

I just figure it reduces the chance of clumps stuck on the bottom and I was worried they would scorch the bottom. It was a bit extra work but not too bad.
 
They make "glass beads" http://www.labdepotinc.com/c-72-glass-beads.php that you can put in the bottom of your flask; they provide an "initiation" point for the liquid to boil. One of the problems with flasks is that they are very very smooth. Water needs a point to form bubles as it boils, if it doesn't, it quite litterally forms huge bubbles as it transitions from the liquid to gas state, which makes boil overs a big pain. I use both the glass beads and Fermcap and I don't have any issues with boilover any more.
 
its funny my mother in law told me a story today about how she blew up a flask she put on her gas stove. She said it just popped and made a mess, didn't explode though. funny coincidence. anyways I looked it up again offsite and did confirm its not the best idea...found this too...http://unitednuclear.com/index.php?...id=344&zenid=cf47f13e487e94091e220e7afad21767

I'm not gonna argue with facts.:) Maybe a bunsen burner is very low heat. I distinctly remember heating flasks in the lab. I use a trivet nonetheless.
 
I use a large measuring cup to dissolve the DME, which has a handy spout for pouring into the flask. As for boilovers, you can either use the boiling beads mentioned above, or somehow put some scratches in the bottom of the flask to create initiation sites.
 
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