Excessive Trub

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Netflyer

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Oct 29, 2009
Messages
776
Reaction score
9
Location
Near Benedict Maryland
It seems that when I brew with Maris Otter which I really like to do, that I get almost 2 gallons of trub crud left over. I've heard tales of people siphoning over the 'top' layer of the trub and I'm thinking I'm leaving too much behind but it is so clouding/yucky. Should I be bringing that cloudy grainy stuff over to the fermenter? I'm going to have to increase my boil sizes cause I'm getting 4 gallon yields instead of 5.25 cause of trub.
 
Yeah, I'm whirlpoolin' like a mutha. I whirlpool and cover for 20 min after I chill. The bottom trub layer looks like a giant cloud and it seems evenly distributed, even after I whirlpool. I'm sure if there is some thicker stuff it's in the middle. The thing is, with my kettle, if I wasn't siphoning with a racking cane and I use the valve on the kettle, at the bottom of the valve you still have 1.75 gallons.
I don't use any filter, I ferment in plasticans - should I be racking through a funnel and filter into there? I know people with better systems push their brew with pressure through filters but I don't have that luxury :)
Isn't some trub, if you just dump it all in the primary, damaging to the taste? Otherwise wouldn't everyone just do that, dump it all in?
 
For the same reason nobody here does anything all the same way: it's their beer.

A filter can be as simple as some cheesecloth over the end of your racking cane.
 
When I first started to whirlpool I left it 20 minutes and didn't notice much difference; now I let it go for about 45 minutes to an hour and it seems to make a big difference. Try that and see if that helps.

Eric
 
If you're one of us who like to let our beer sit in the primary for a month and then bottle or rack to secondary, the yeast cake/trub will settle and condense and you'll lose less beer that way. It works.

Some people say that you shouldn't leave the beer on the yeast/trub for that long but there are a lot of us who think it actually improves the beer. All I can say is brew up a batch and give it a shot and decide for yourself. You'll be surprised. Either way, it'll still be good beer.
 
To me, the less trub in the fermenter, the easier it is for me to rack it off the yeast...less to suck up.

So I go from my brew kettle to my bottling bucket after chilling. The bucket has a 5 gallon paint strainer over it and gets out a decent amount of stuff. Plus, I let my bottling bucket sit angled back for 20 min to allow the stuff to settle back there, then when I transfer to my primary, tilt flat just at the end to get the last of the liquid. I still get some in the primary, but it's not too bad.

I posted this in another thread: I want to get one of these bucket screens at 400 or 600 micron. Should get 99% of everything and be easier to sanitize than a paint strainer.
 
After reading the replies, I thought this might help:

I do a couple steps to limit trub in the fermenter. First I vorlauf heavily, setting a very firm grain bed when sparging and only allow runnings into the pot when they are coming out clear (or as clear as is practical). My intent is to get the heavy stuff (husks and such) to stick in the grain bed and not end up in my boiler. I batch sparge so every batch I vorlauf until I get my clear runnings. Next, after flameout, I allow my immersion chiller to do its thing for a little longer than necessary so that the wort has ample time to settle out what trub I do get. This also helps precipitate proteins which can look like floating gunk if they coagulate (or aggregate... I don't know which is the right term). I don't whirlpool, although that might come in handy if there is a rediculous amount of (heavy) crap floating around such as hops pieces. Third and most important, I account for a gunk layer. Mine comes to approximately 1/4 gal. that I chalk up to losses. I marked off 1/4 gallon from the bottom of the pot, which is where my spigot is located BTW. So when racking my cooled wort to my fermentor, my spigot draws wort from above the gunk level and I get very little in the fermentor.
Of course, none of this matters during the primary fermentation phase. It simply makes for an easier time cleaning the primary and racking to the secondary if necessary. I don't think its much work when I do it because its just habit.
 
Third and most important, I account for a gunk layer. Mine comes to approximately 1/4 gal. that I chalk up to losses. I marked off 1/4 gallon from the bottom of the pot, which is where my spigot is located BTW. So when racking my cooled wort to my fermentor, my spigot draws wort from above the gunk level and I get very little in the fermentor.

The problem with the gunk layer mark is if you brew different types using different base grains and such the gunk layer would vary, no? But I hear you about the Vorlauf, I do try to recirculate a few qts but my false bottom helps me draw clear after even 1 qt.

I'm tempted not to whirlpool after I cool. By the time it is cool the stuff has really settled, about 35 min for me w/my em. chiller, why stir it back up anyhow?
 
try to siphon it out without the FB and see if you get more, 2g seems like a lot of trub for a 5g batch. Are you using a lot of leaf hops?
 
Back
Top