Induction Cooktop

I would like to know if someone has used an induction cook-top for home brewing and what is their experience.

If I am right, in theory one would achieve better temperature control, especially when performing multiple infusions.

Thanks, Nil

I don't know about better temperature control, but I don't see having great luck with a full boil on a stove top. I used to do it with two gas burners on my apartment stove but I had to have a heat stick to actually get a good boil.

I would think the problem would be finding a pot big enough to boil in that works on inductions. This is assuming that I am remembering right and you need special cookware on them.

Folks, I am not interested in boiling. I am more interested for mashing in order to stay away from a tun & adding boiling water for temp adjustment.

Thanks, Nil

The only requirement for induction stoves is that the pot is magnetic. Stainless steel is not necessarily magnetic however. We have several pots that were stainless but would not register on our induction hot plate.

I tried to brew on an induction hot plate one time which ended up taking about an hour to bring to strike temp. On a more powerful system it might work better but as much as I like induction it doesn't seem to work well for brewing.

Nil said:

If I am right, in theory one would achieve better temperature control, especially when performing multiple infusions.

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Might work if you're just worried about mash temp control. What's the reasoning behind this theory of yours?

Ryush806,

The fact that the temperature increase in due to a magnetic field, this means that the cooktop would turn the pot into a virtual jacketed container.

As Einstein said: "Never lose a holy curiosity. "

Thanks, Nil

Thanks, Nil

I use this and it works amazing for keeping temp. It took a few batches to get the hang of the temp control but its awesome. Takes 18 minutes for me to get to strike temp, slide it to an off burner, then stir in grains...let it sit for5-10 minutes, then slide it on to the warm burner but off. You might have to stir every once in a while to reduce the heat but it holds for an hour pretty steady for me. I also boil on it without much issue, and mine is quite old

Calichusetts: how many Watts does your equipment use? 1300 or 1800?

Thanks, Nil

Nil said:

Calichusetts: how many Watts does your equipment use? 1300 or 1800?

Thanks, Nil

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Here is the brand new version my model...its slightly different. Mine has a 9 inch on the front right, these have two 8 inch. They say the 8 inch is 2000 watts so I will guess mine is in the same range since its at least 4-5 years old:

http://www.homedepot.com/Appliances...&langId=-1&storeId=10051&superSkuId=202603384

New ranges, even cheap ones can come with up to a 12 inch burner, I REALLY want one and will definitely work it into the remodel we plan for the kitchen...most 12 inch tops put out 3000 minimum. Most pots in the 5 gallon range are also around 12-14 inches so it will work perfect

I have an 1800W induction burner that I occasionally use for brewing. It has the option of some preset temps but the low is 140F and the next up is 180F. It doesn't measure the temp, I think it just sets how frequently it comes on.

I don't mash with this, I use a cooler. Using a kettle on the induction burner might work OK though because you can insulate your kettle since the burner itself doesn't really get hot. Although, you might see scorching if you don't stir. The thing is either on or its not and when its on its pretty hot. I don't know what you mean about a jacketed container, it is really about the same as a regular burner only the pot is the only thing that gets hot. And its only the metal right above the coil on the burner, which on mine is about the size of a small electric burner on my stove.

My triple-layer bottomed SS kettle is magnetic and works with this unit. You can check with the kettle supplier, I got mine at Morebeere and they told me which ones were magnetic.

Well, the fact that the eddy currents are distributed all over the pot and not just the bottom, makes it a virtual jacketed kettle.

What I have seen is that there are "warming" setups with a good ranges of temperatures. In theory, if I set up a warming temperature at 120F, then I may be able to maintain the grain at that specific temperature. I will have some trouble with 154 F, thou, unless there is a variable setup cooktop in the market. I dont think this is the case, at least from a budget standpoint.

I agree, it will require constant stirring. This can be done quite easily.

Thanks, Nil

The pot only heats right where it sits over the coil, you can see it when you boil water. The induction field only works within about 1/4" of the actual coil. Its really not much different from a conventional electric coil element when it comes right down to it. It does come on instantly, no warming up involved.

My cheapie Max Burton 6000 (something like $70 on Amazon) is an 1800 watt unit and it has temp setting that start at 140F, next one is 180F. So you could heat your mash up to 150 and then set the thing for 140F and it'd hold pretty well. You'd want to insulate the kettle like I said, some buble wrap type stuff works great.

I have two portable units I have used for brewing for years. One for the HLT, and one for direct fired mashing. I wrap the mash pot in 5 layers of reflectix (metalized bubble-wrap). It holds the heat very well so I don't have to apply any heat at the various rest stages. I made a foam lid for my mash pot to hold the heat better. The HLT is wrapped as well, but only has it's original metal lid

I turn the heat on my mash water (typically 3 to 3.5 gal.) and by the time I get my grains weighed and milled, the water is just about ready . I do use a lot of pilsner malt so I am often mashing in at 122 F.

Step mashes are a breeze. My step rate is about 2 F per minute. My normal steps are 122, then 147, then 160, and then 170. I vary the times at each temp. depending on the style (crisper or fuller)

I don't bother with the heating settings. I run the mash tun unit full tilt and turn it of once I've reached the rest temperature. I run the one for the HLT on med-High as I find that get's my 5 gal of sparge water to ~170 by the time the mash is done


Oh, and you can't use the commonly available wired probe thermometers (at least the ones I have). I think the magnetic fields being generated by the coil mess up the signal being sent to the base unit. My simple all-in-one unit appears to be unaffected (no connecting wire)

Do you have to stir constantly to avoid scorching during a step?

I don't have to stir. I stir when I start a ramp, then once in the middle, and then at the end when checking to make sure I hit my target temp. I like to stir once in the middle as I find I get layers with different temps as it heats. So I do stir some, but not to prevent scorching

I've got a standard 15-gallon stainless steel brew kettle--not sure if it is magnetic. If not, are there conversions or slide-in elements that will allow use with induction burner? I have to brew electric as I live up at 8500' and must brew indoors. Will use heat stick to help.

I have seen iron disks for sale made for the express purpose of being able to use non-magnetic pots. You basically turn the unduction unit into sort of a regular electric element - of course you loose some effieciency by doing it this way

Touch a magnet to the side of the kettle. If it sticks, induction will work.