15 Gallon Blichmann Boilmaker for 5 gallon batches

I'm considering getting a new boil kettle and have pretty much settled on a Blichmann. I only brew 5 gallon batches but am considering some 10 gallon batches in the future. I was going to get the 10 gallon kettle but am now considering the 15 gallon kettle for the occasional 10 gallon batch. I know Blichmann recommends the 20 gallon kettle for 10 gallon batches but I know someone who does his 10 gallon batches in a 15 gallon kettle so I know it works. So my question is does anyone do 5 gallon batches in a 15 gallon kettle and, if so, how does it work for you? Thanks.

I see no problems except the pot will weigh more. You probably should do some test boils to see if time to boil changes and test your evaporation rate. But what do I know.

One downside is the thermometer is at the 6.5 gallon mark on the 15 gal kettle. This can be moved lower by simply drilling a new hole and putting a plug in the original. I was in the same boat as you and went with the 15. I'm thankful for that since I now primarily do 10 gallon batches. It worked fine for 5 gal though.

It works fine for me, I do 6 gallon batches with an 8 gallon preboil. I can just squeeze a double batch in there if I need to. Thermometers can be lowered if necessary, i've done it.

_

Keggles are only 15.5 gal for 10 gal batches...if all else fails, could use fermcap

I use a 15gal Blichmann for 5gal batches. Previous poster is right... a new hole needs to be drilled in order to put the thermometer lower. Blichmann sells a little hole plug to seal off any thermometer holes that aren't being used, and can easily be switched if you ever want to move the thermometer up.

I just bought some step bits though, and plan to widen the original hole in order to put in a stainless elbow on the inside to recirc/whirlpool.

I should add that I actually had a boilover on my most recent beer, at about 6.5gal in a 15gal kettle... ON MY STOVETOP! So it still doesn't make you immune, and I'll be using fermcap from now on.

I've been using a 15 gal pot primarily for 5 gallon batches for 12 years with the occasional 10 gallon batch thrown in. Never a problem, just a vigilant eye on the boil.

I would do the mash tun as large as you can, so you can buy the biggest pot and move it to the mash tun and then select the best boil size for you when you buy the next one.

I have (2) 15 gal blichmanns and a 20 gal.
When I do 10 gal batches, I boil in the 20 gal, when I do 5 gal batches, I boil in the 15 gal kettle.
The mash works fine in the 15 ,except for the temp guage. move it or ignore it. Works fine.

I have used a 15 gal boilermaker for many many 5 gallon batches, as well as many 10 gallon batches.

Dont buy the 10 gallon pot, you're limiting your ability to do 10 gallon batches. The 15 gallon pot works perfectly fine. Some have issue with the thermometer....but do you REALLY need a thermometer in your boil kettle?? I mean....its either boiling or it isnt. Not like a mash tun where you need to hit/maintain specific temps...

edit: I should add that I do 13.5 gallon starting volume boils in my 15 gallon boilermaker regularly, and have NEVER had a boilover in it (knock on wood...). Just mind your heat source and you'll be 100% fine.

Thanks all. I just ordered the 15 gallon kettle along with their burner. Quite the upgrade from what I have now. Now I have to start thinking about fermenters down the road ....

noreaster40s said:

Thanks all. I just ordered the 15 gallon kettle along with their burner. Quite the upgrade from what I have now. Now I have to start thinking about fermenters down the road ....

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Ale pails and sanke kegs. I've got a half dozen carboys collecting dust now. 6.5 gallon ale pails for the 5 gal batches because they are super easy to clean. Sanke kegs for 10 gal batches since it's a cheap and easy solution.

strat_thru_marshall said:

I have used a 15 gal boilermaker for many many 5 gallon batches, as well as many 10 gallon batches.

Dont buy the 10 gallon pot, you're limiting your ability to do 10 gallon batches. The 15 gallon pot works perfectly fine. Some have issue with the thermometer....but do you REALLY need a thermometer in your boil kettle?? I mean....its either boiling or it isnt. Not like a mash tun where you need to hit/maintain specific temps...

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Currently, I use my BK to heat the water to certain temps before it goes into a cooler which serves as the HLT. So in my case anyways, it IS pretty important. Plus, even when boiling, it's nice to see where I'm at when bringing it to a boil. It costs nearly nothing for the little plug, and you're paying for the thermometer when you buy a BoilerMaker, so you might as well get to use it.

I do 5.5 gallons, 7.5 gallon pre boils in a 15 gallon keggle. I love not having to worry about boil overs.

How is the 15 gallon Boilmaker doing with 5 gallon batches? I too was debating 10g vs 15g - I bought the 10g and returned for the 15 g. I have yet to brew yet, but any suggestions?

First time doing all grain as well. Thanks for your chain it was helpful in my decision process.

Cheers!

The 15 works fine for 5 gal batches.

1234contact - My Boilmaker is doing fine. I'm doing 5.5 gal batches now so when I first start the boil the wort level is over the thermometer probe. Before the boil is over it's below it though. For me, that's no big deal. Love the kettle though.

Thanks for the update noreaster40s
!

wildwest450 said:

It works fine for me, I do 6 gallon batches with an 8 gallon preboil. I can just squeeze a double batch in there if I need to. Thermometers can be lowered if necessary, i've done it.

_

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+ 1 on moving the thermometer. I do 6 gallon batches in mine all the time only a few times a year do I do 10 gallons. the 15 should be good

I have the 20 gallon boilermaker and do mostly 5 gallon batches in it. It works great and there's no way I can get a boilover. It's the perfect size for 10 gallon batches or even as a mash tun (w/ false bottom) for high gravity 10 gallon batches. I almost bought the 15 gallon, but changed my mind after considering that a high gravity 10 gallon batch could easily have 13-14 gallons pre-boil.

I'll be the contrarian here, I bought the 10 and wouldn't consider the 15 since I am only planning 5 gallon batches. The day I plan to make a 10 gallon batch I'll worry about a larger pot. As it is, this thing is big.

zacster said:

I'll be the contrarian here, I bought the 10 and wouldn't consider the 15 since I am only planning 5 gallon batches. The day I plan to make a 10 gallon batch I'll worry about a larger pot. As it is, this thing is big.

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for the price point to add the 5 gallons is only 30 bucks. it is best to buy big for future growth just my .02 cents

I have a question about these boil kettels any one have any issues with the hop screens they make for these? I am considering trading in my keggle boil kettle for a Blichman 15 gal. I use a hop bag currently as I have a CFC chiller and I don't want it clogged with hops. The way my keggle was welded I can't attached any kind of hop screen to the inside (hence my reason to replce it). I wantt o free boil my hops and was wondering if the hop screens for the Blichman really work well? Sorry to hyjack the thread.

Demon said:

Ale pails and sanke kegs. I've got a half dozen carboys collecting dust now. 6.5 gallon ale pails for the 5 gal batches because they are super easy to clean. Sanke kegs for 10 gal batches since it's a cheap and easy solution.

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If you ever come to Florida, bring them and I will be glad to buy them from you.

brewtime said:

for the price point to add the 5 gallons is only 30 bucks. it is best to buy big for future growth just my .02 cents

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$30? Last time I checked the jump from 10 to 15 is about $65.

Besides, this thing is already BIG. I'm brewing for myself, not an army.

anyone know the specific heat value for the 15gal boilermaker with mash screen and dip tube installed as mash tun?

TD

kapbrew13 said:

I see no problems except the pot will weigh more. You probably should do some test boils to see if time to boil changes and test your evaporation rate. But what do I know.

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Could someone go into more detail about the evaporation rates and tests to determine it. I am preparing to do a 5 gallon extract kit in a 15 gal pot and I am concerned about evaporation. I figured I could add more water but have no idea how much.

Alabamy said:

Could someone go into more detail about the evaporation rates and tests to determine it. I am preparing to do a 5 gallon extract kit in a 15 gal pot and I am concerned about evaporation. I figured I could add more water but have no idea how much.

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Fill your pot to 10 gallons and boil for 1 hour and take level measurement. Subtract your ending value from 10 gallons

10- 8.5 =1.5 1.5/10 = .15

Evaporation rate is 15%

Everyone's rate is can be different based on several factors

Alabamy said:

Could someone go into more detail about the evaporation rates and tests to determine it. I am preparing to do a 5 gallon extract kit in a 15 gal pot and I am concerned about evaporation. I figured I could add more water but have no idea how much.

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Ok, I vote rather than wasting an hours worth of propane, simply brew a batch and take notes!

Start with say 6.5 gallons and monitor as you go... Add top up water during the boil if you are running short... Boil a little longer if running over on volume. This is a simple extract batch...RDWHAB and enjoy and keep it simple!

Learn about your boil off and move forward.

brewtime said:

Fill your pot to 10 gallons and boil for 1 hour and take level measurement. Subtract your ending value from 10 gallons

10- 8.5 =1.5 1.5/10 = .15

Evaporation rate is 15%

Everyone's rate is can be different based on several factors

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The problem with that equation is that it only works for a certain volume for a certain amount of time. With a consistent heat input in a given kettle, water DOES NOT merely evaporate for a certain percentage per hour, but rather, a certain volume per hour.

For example, let's say you start with the same 10 gallons as in your example, but (for the sake of convenience) boil it down to 8 gallons in an hour. Figuring out the percentage boiled off for 2 gallons in that hour will give you a 20% per hour boil off rate. But it doesn't work like that... if you started off with 8 gallons (or simply decided to boil for another hour), you'd still boil off roughly 2 gallons, only this time it calculates to 25% since you're down to roughly 6 gallons. Start with 6 gallons, and you'll calculate a 33% boil-off rate. Then starting with the 4 gallons you have left, a 50% boil-off rate, before boiling off the last 2 gallons in about an hour for a 100% boil off rate!

I'm aware that some software calculates your boil parameters using a % per hour boil-off rate. And while it's not exactly ideal, it's still usable, as long as you understand that it doesn't really work like that. If you figure out your boil-off rate in absolute terms (eg 2 gallons/hour), then a little bit of simple math can give you a "theoretical" % per hour that can be used in such software to give you the same total volume boiled off (ie final volume) for whatever amount of time you're actually going to boil for. But if either the duration of the boil or the pre-boil volume happens to change for a given batch, then said theoretical % will obviously need to be recalculated.