STC-1000 in Fahrenheit

I hope it's ok to post links to products. I've purchased two of the STC-1000s in Celsius but I would have purchased them in Fahrenheit had I seen them at the same price. This company, which I am not affiliated with in anyway, and they ship from China so be aware of time delays in shipping.

http://www.tomtop.com/10a-110v-digi...uple-58-194-fahrenheit-with-sensor-h9745.html

I have one. It is NOT an STC-1000. But it works for what I want it to do.

some stc 1000s can be reflashed with the stc1000+ firmware with not only does F but does step mash temp profiles for different yeasts/beer styles..
Ive flashed 6 of these now.

Nyle said:

I hope it's ok to post links to products. I've purchased two of the STC-1000s in Celsius but I would have purchased them in Fahrenheit had I seen them at the same price. This company, which I am not affiliated with in anyway, and they ship from China so be aware of time delays in shipping.

http://www.tomtop.com/10a-110v-digi...uple-58-194-fahrenheit-with-sensor-h9745.html

Click to expand...

The controller you link to only has a single relay, so it can heat or it can cool but can't control both (like the STC-1000 does.) It is not equivalent to a °F reading STC-1000.

Ink-Bird sells a product called ITC-1000 that is a dual relay unit (can control heating and cooling simultaneously) that can do °F and °C. You can order from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXPE8U6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20. This product is functionally equivalent to a stock STC-1000, except that it can also display temp in °F as well as °C.

Ink-Bird also has a newer product called the ITC-308. This is a plug-n-play dual relay controller, that reads in °F or °C, with similar function to an STC-1000. It also has a two line display to show setpoint and actual temp at the same time. Also available from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B011296704/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20. Ink-Bird just did an EC on this product to bring it into compliance with the NEC. If you go with this unit, buy directly from Ink-Bird (there are other sellers on Amazon) to make sure you get the latest EC.

If you want more than just an on-off controller. Look into the STC-1000+ (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=464348). This can do timed temperature step programs and temperature ramp programs. It also displays in °F and °C. You can buy DIY and fully assembled units from http://www.boostbysmith.com/brewindex.html.

Brew on

augiedoggy said:

some stc 1000s can be reflashed with the stc1000+ firmware with not only does F but does step mash temp profiles for different yeasts/beer styles..
Ive flashed 6 of these now.

Click to expand...

You've flashed 6 of these particular units, or you've flashed 6 stc-1000 units?

The seller does not represent these as stc-1000, MH1210F is the designation on the documentation. These units are basic t-stats.

Mine works well for my 15 gallon electric HLT with an SSR. No overshoot and maintains 170F within .5 degree, maybe that's on account of the large thermal mass.

donbrew said:

You've flashed 6 of these particular units, or you've flashed 6 stc-1000 units?

The seller does not represent these as stc-1000, MH1210F is the designation on the documentation. These units are basic t-stats.

Mine works well for my 15 gallon electric HLT with an SSR. No overshoot and maintains 170F within .5 degree, maybe that's on account of the large thermal mass.

Click to expand...

no I flashed the real stc1000 (or the the a400 version clones since there are at least 5 different versions of the "real" stc 1000 clones)

I have two of the regular non inkbird branded Fahrenheit temp controllers too...They work well. One only has one relay like the one you linked so its setup to just cool a freezer to fridge temps and the other is still hooked up as a dual purpose temp controller for my wine fridge fermentation chamber although I plan on replacing it with a stc1000+ like im using for my glycal chiller system.

so you removed the mechanical relay on yours or are you still using it to drive the ssr? if the latter its may likely fail soon since the relay contacts are not designed to turn on and off that quickly.

Just letting the relay send 12vDC to the SSR. It's the HLT, so it does not click very often. Now you got me thinking though.....

The HLT has a 240V 20A element in it now, so I couldn't use the 10A relay. I am thinking about changing to a 120V element.

The HLT is not used in a HERMES setup, it is really only 12 gallons of sparge water at 170F. As long as it's close that's okay for sparge water in my system.

donbrew said:

Just letting the relay send 12vDC to the SSR. It's the HLT, so it does not click very often. Now you got me thinking though.....

The HLT has a 240V 20A element in it now, so I couldn't use the 10A relay. I am thinking about changing to a 120V element.

The HLT is not used in a HERMES setup, it is really only 12 gallons of sparge water at 170F. As long as it's close that's okay for sparge water in my system.

Click to expand...

To control temps within one degree the relay would have to be turning on and off at least once a minute and that likely will cause premature failure in the relay contacts. I would would keep it in mind..
I have seen it many times on the equipment I work on at work and those relays dont even cycle that often since a triac is used for the heaters.

You think 12 VDC would make problems? I can do 5 VDC if maybe that would be less troubles. I'm using an old XT regulated power supply, so got both.

I thought the low voltage and next to no resistance would not stress the contacts. The SSR driver is an optocoupler right?

I use this controller to maintain my glycol bath. Single relay is perfect for that. It would also work well for a keezer.

donbrew said:

You think 12 VDC would make problems? I can do 5 VDC if maybe that would be less troubles. I'm using an old XT regulated power supply, so got both.

I thought the low voltage and next to no resistance would not stress the contacts. The SSR driver is an optocoupler right?

Click to expand...

didnt realize it was only 12v dc... It may work a very long time this way... the main thing is if it starts turning on and off every 10-20 seconds or so the contacts will overheat and burn.

I use the stc 1000+ to control heating strips and control another machanica relay which turns on my glycol pump and opens a soleniod valve to allow flow through a cooling jacket around my fermentors. I have only used one of the the four I have setup in a series but it has also worked well.

when my pid is trying to maintain 170degrees for sparging it turns on and off multiple times a minute sometimes very quickly... This is what mainly causes heat and failure.

doug293cz said:

The controller you link to only has a single relay, so it can heat or it can cool but can't control both (like the STC-1000 does.) It is not equivalent to a °F reading STC-1000.

Brew on

Click to expand...

Ah, crud you are right. I only skimmed the specifications because it looked so much like the STC-1000. Sorry for the confusion.

Nyle said:

Ah, crud you are right. I only skimmed the specifications because it looked so much like the STC-1000. Sorry for the confusion.

Click to expand...

there are many on ebay that do both for under $20... thats were I bought mine amazon also. like the inkbird branded ones.