Critique my single tier pump plan

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I use some kludged together hose set I made up to connect to the stand. Imagine a really long disclaimer about doing that.......

If you have two locations you want to connect into, it's best to have rigid pipe running to both locations so you can use the shortest piece of flex hose you can.

While I've gotten my multi-jet burners to work for me, in most cases, I really have a hard time recommending them. I want to try the Hurricane burner with the nat gas orifice. My biggest problem right now is getting my mashtun burner to run low enough.

I was thinking of a 20 to 25ft flex NG line. My patio and the garage location for two brewing options are located within that range of the NG source. I would also only use one three burner brew stand at a time on it. I would not leave the flex line under pressure and would disconnect it from the source and store it when not used for brewing.

I was in Northern Brewery last week and was told they will soon have a NG option. I am not certain what it will be nor when.

I may then, due to cost of a Hurricane set up, eliminate the burner that would be used for the mash tun. I am planning on batch sparging anyway and I could always design the system framework for expansion in the future should I want to try direct heat.
 
Cape Brewing was very helpful over in a thread he had posted regarding his projects. As a result I will be sourcing a part of this project out to a professional plumber. Of course, I will seek one interested in trading plumbing skills for brewing tips and equipment usage.

I would like to begin planning this build by developing a list of materials and sources. To do this, I will ask a series of questions.

The first: How do I determine the size of the plumbing I will need? One inche, 3/4 inch? What will determine that aspect of the build?
 
Bobby
My welder will begin working on my one level brew stand soon. I need to provide him with final directions. My brew stand is going to be very similar to yours.

Any sage advice before I have it welded up? I know it is a pretty simple design, but would you do anything different?

Again, thanks for the help.
 
Hmm, anything different. If you don't need the center post support in the middle/front, skip it. When I first conceived the design, I was sure single tier was for me but after brewing 20 batches on it, I'm seriously thinking a 2-tier would have been the better way to go. Pumping out of an MLT directly is sort of a pain in the ass. I know many people have no problems with it but it stinks when the tun runs dry and you have to reprime the pump. The answer is to stop the pump before it happens, but you can't see inside to know when it's about to happen. The other shortcoming is the need for a second pump if you want to play with fly sparging. This $150 expense can be sidestepped with a little gravity.

If I were building one right now, it would be ---___--- with the HLT, BK, MLT. The center BK position would be as low as you could get it with still having enough room for the burner (assuming gas, not electric). The other two tiers would just be high enough so that the MLT can drain to the BK. It still shouldn't be too high to dough in easily without a ladder. Now you can gravity drain the MLT and pump the sparge water. You can batch or fly anytime you want. You'd further use the pump to push the post boil wort to the fermenter (and through the chiller if you have a cfc/plate).

BTW, the reason the HLT stays separated from the MLT in position is so that I can blast the flame under the HLT while I still have heat-sensitive insulation wrapped around the mashtun.

I know the options are limitless and everyone has an opinion. I'll probably change my mind in a month.
 
Hmm, anything different. If you don't need the center post support in the middle/front, skip it. When I first conceived the design, I was sure single tier was for me but after brewing 20 batches on it, I'm seriously thinking a 2-tier would have been the better way to go. Pumping out of an MLT directly is sort of a pain in the ass. I know many people have no problems with it but it stinks when the tun runs dry and you have to reprime the pump. The answer is to stop the pump before it happens, but you can't see inside to know when it's about to happen. The other shortcoming is the need for a second pump if you want to play with fly sparging. This $150 expense can be sidestepped with a little gravity.

If I were building one right now, it would be ---___--- with the HLT, BK, MLT. The center BK position would be as low as you could get it with still having enough room for the burner (assuming gas, not electric). The other two tiers would just be high enough so that the MLT can drain to the BK. It still shouldn't be too high to dough in easily without a ladder. Now you can gravity drain the MLT and pump the sparge water. You can batch or fly anytime you want. You'd further use the pump to push the post boil wort to the fermenter (and through the chiller if you have a cfc/plate).

BTW, the reason the HLT stays separated from the MLT in position is so that I can blast the flame under the HLT while I still have heat-sensitive insulation wrapped around the mashtun.

I know the options are limitless and everyone has an opinion. I'll probably change my mind in a month.

TY Bobby.

Yes, the options are limitless. I plan to continue to batch sparge. I have no problem picking up the second pump if I want it. I will drain my BK using gravity directly to a carboy using a tube passing through an open basement window.

I often times brew alone while my wife is at work. As a result, being here alone, I really no longer want my HLT at gravity levels. Mainly because I must lift the keg off of a turkey fryer. That keg almost always has some residual water left in it. So, I wanted to move to a single level for safety reasons. And as long as I am doing so, I will move to natural gas as well.

Your single tier caught my eye. I am making some modifications but the base idea is yours.

Thanks for all your efforts in assisting not only me, but so many others here as well.
 
Yeah, I'd have to agree with Bobby on this one. I too modeled my stand after Bobby's and now I'm wishing that the BK was lower than the HLT and MT because I would like to try fly sparging. If for no other reason just to compare my results to batch sparging.
 
I may then, due to cost of a Hurricane set up, eliminate the burner that would be used for the mash tun. I am planning on batch sparging anyway and I could always design the system framework for expansion in the future should I want to try direct heat.

With an electric heating element in a RIMS configuration you don't need to directly heat your MLT. See below. All you need is some copper pipe and an inexpensive heating element along with a PID, SSR and Thermistor. It can be done in copper for about $120 depending on where you purchase.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rims-dummies-114997/
 
Bobby,
What are the measurements of your stand? I didn't see it mentioned in here.
 
Bobby, Thanks for all the great info! I have kind of a strange request. Can I get a picture of your NG outlet out of your wall into that red hose? I moved into a new home that has NG and I have a extra port in the basement im thinking about having plumbed out to my garage through the wall. Just curious what I need on the other side in order to connect a hose to a setup like you have
 
It's a sad, non-code hook up. On the 1/2" black pipe I have a gas rated ball valve, then a 1/2" male NPT to female garden hose fitting. My 1/2" goodyear utility hose has a male GH to hose barb fitting on both ends. The brew stand also has a female GH fitting on it. I used garden hose threads as a semi quick disconnect system that I'm relatively sure will not leak, won't restrict flow, and won't cost anywhere near what the gas rated hose sets cost. A 25' x 1/2" set goes for like $160 and the QD is a bottleneck.

Do I have to mention that I don't endorse garden hose fittings for nat gas? The valve on the hard line is only opened during brew sessions and closed after so none the out of code crap has any gas pressure otherwise.
 
Bobby,
i've seen your vids and read this thread. it looks like you still use this setup. besides altering it to a 2-tier system like in post 124, or removing that center tube to support your burners, is there anything else that you might change? i'll be building my rig in spring and am collecting ideas. tks.

why would you prefer square tubing instead of bed frames (basically angle iron)?

btw, great looking rig, hence my desire to reproduce it!
 
The reason I don't like angle stock is because you can't grind the welds on inside corners. All the corners are "outside" on square tube. This is one of those details you only think of when you go to grind the first one. Oops.
 
Hmm, anything different. If you don't need the center post support in the middle/front, skip it. When I first conceived the design, I was sure single tier was for me but after brewing 20 batches on it, I'm seriously thinking a 2-tier would have been the better way to go. Pumping out of an MLT directly is sort of a pain in the ass. I know many people have no problems with it but it stinks when the tun runs dry and you have to reprime the pump. The answer is to stop the pump before it happens, but you can't see inside to know when it's about to happen. The other shortcoming is the need for a second pump if you want to play with fly sparging. This $150 expense can be sidestepped with a little gravity.

If I were building one right now, it would be ---___--- with the HLT, BK, MLT. The center BK position would be as low as you could get it with still having enough room for the burner (assuming gas, not electric). The other two tiers would just be high enough so that the MLT can drain to the BK. It still shouldn't be too high to dough in easily without a ladder. Now you can gravity drain the MLT and pump the sparge water. You can batch or fly anytime you want. You'd further use the pump to push the post boil wort to the fermenter (and through the chiller if you have a cfc/plate).

BTW, the reason the HLT stays separated from the MLT in position is so that I can blast the flame under the HLT while I still have heat-sensitive insulation wrapped around the mashtun.

I know the options are limitless and everyone has an opinion. I'll probably change my mind in a month.

Sorry to open up an old thread but Bobby, I am/was on a 3 tier system but was a bit of a pain getting on a stool to get to the HLT and lifting mash tuns and brew kettles, so I got a pump. I was trying to think of the best way to use it to ease my brew day back and came across this and was convinced this might be the way to go. I'm wondering if you changed your mind about the pumping from MLT to BK? I have some wire shelves to use and am reading tons on here to see what the best configuration might be. Initially, I was thinking of just using the pump to push water to my MLT and have the MLT on the same level as my BK, then saw a two tier HLT gravity to MLT then pump to BK. If you could do it all over again and have a HLT keggle, 10 gallon cooler MT, and BK keggle and just one pump, how would you configure it? I have two burners, one doesn't fit great on my wire shelving but can be rigged. Thanks.
 
Recently picked up the parts to get started on my single tier. Have 3 kegs drilled for 1/2 inch SS full couplers. The welder said that SS cannot be welded to Aluminum?? Did any of you run into this? If I am not mistaken everyone seems to have SS welded into their kegs. I was told an alternative is to find aluminum couplers or weld in a piece and tap it to the right threads.

What do you think?
 
38372 said:
Recently picked up the parts to get started on my single tier. Have 3 kegs drilled for 1/2 inch SS full couplers. The welder said that SS cannot be welded to Aluminum?? Did any of you run into this? If I am not mistaken everyone seems to have SS welded into their kegs. I was told an alternative is to find aluminum couplers or weld in a piece and tap it to the right threads.

What do you think?

Sanke kegs are stainless steel. If your welder couldn't tell that... Run!

Ed
 
Sanke kegs are stainless steel. If your welder couldn't tell that... Run!

Ed

I agree, but there is a small chance he could have older aluminum kegs.

To 38372, if you did somehow find 3 aluminum kegs, I'd suggest going with weldless bulkheads.
 
Any way someone could help me with parts list to make a pilot for the build I'm getting ready to start. Thanks in advance
 
Sorry for the resurrection of the thread. I've gotten several requests for dimensions on the brew stand and finally exported the graphic from sketchup.

bobbymbrewstand.jpg
 
Bobby,

Great work indeed. Working on a similar single-tier design and liked how you standardized the fitting locations on each of your vessels. Could you provide a little more detail surrounding the MLT, HLT, and BK fitting/port locations? Specifically I'd be looking for dimensions on the locations and sizes of the fittings themselves.

Thanks!
 
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