Having researched the Brutus sytems I liked the idea of using a pumps and only SS kettles as only vessels involved and using a single tier, but I don't have the patience, expertise or disposable income to build a setup like that. So what I did was build a 2 vessel single tier single pump setup for just a few hundred bucks and tried a test run yesterday and surprisingly it looks like it will work pretty well. It is completely non-automated with no electronic control so really nothing to do with the Brutus systems except in the recirculation during mash and sparge.
The materials I used are basically:
-1 little giant pump. $155.00
-2 9 gallon Economy SS Kettles with dual couplings $200.00 (Morebeer now has these for 90 each and free shipping, no tax outside CA so could be $180.00)
-Hardware from Bargian fittings including 3 SS ball valves, 2 thermometers, mash braid, etc etc $150.00.
-2 SS 1/2 inch T barbs Ebay 10.00 shipped
-20 feet 3/8 inch Silicone hose, Amazon 25.00 (this was a mistake, I will end up replacing with 1/2 inch because the wall thickness of the 3/8 inch stuff from amazon is too thin and the hose isn't going to last, i can already tell after using it only once)
-worm drive clamps Lowes $5.00
So I'm in for a little over $500.00 however if you already have some of the stuff or don't use all SS hardware and kettles you could do it for significantly less.
I went with a little giant pump since they are reportedly maybe a little more durable and robust). The basic setup I'm using is my built-in bar-b-que island as my stand using my DSC dual side burners as the heat source which actually worked well with this size kettle and had no problem bringing and holding 7 gallons to boil. You could easily to the same thing with more btu's using 2 propane burners.
The basic setup is to run two hoses, one from each kettle ball valve to the first SS T barb out of the T barb (a single hose) to the pump return. Then a single hose from the pump out to the second T barb which gives you 2 return hoses. Approximately 3.5 gallons in each kettle. Mash kettle 1 heated to strike temp, dough in then recirculate mash by keeping the ball valve on kettle 2 closed and both return hoses going tot he top of the mash kettle. When I started my simulated mash (I didn't actually brew, just wanted to test it out) there was no fire on the mash kettle but I started heating my sparge water and the heat from that held my mash temp exactly at 150 even with continuous recirculating which I typically wouldn't be doing for the 15 minute test.
For the sparge I just opened the ball valve on the sparge kettle and placed one return hose to each kettle and continue to sparge until there is equal density of the wort in both kettles. It took about 5 minutes for the temperature to equilibrate in both kettles. I will probably just run the sparge recirulate for about 30 minutes. Then you just close the ball valve on kettle 2 and put both returns to kettle 2 to move all the wort there. I will probable then add an extra gallon or so of 170 degree water heated seperately in a 3rd small pot to get a final rinse of the grist to hopefully increase efficiency and hit pre-boil volume.
Anyway just to summarize all I am doing is instead of making a large single loop like in a Brutus system going from sparge kettle to pump 1 to mash kettle to pump 2 back to sparge kettle what I am doing is making 2 smaller loops out from both sparge kettle and mash kettle into the pump then back to both sparge kettle and mash kettle. The final effect should be the same, that is equal SG wort in both kettles at the end of recirculation then all wort moved back to sprage/boil kettle. Then a small batch sparge to hit volume and get last bit of goodness fromt he grain.
I'll update when I run my first real session. A couple things I learned from my wet run was I bought the wrong tubing and shouldn't have cheaped out there. I should have gotten the QD rather than the worm clamps since it wouldn't have added much extra cost and the clamps are hard on the hose, especially the cheap stuff I got so I am going to need the QD anyway.
The materials I used are basically:
-1 little giant pump. $155.00
-2 9 gallon Economy SS Kettles with dual couplings $200.00 (Morebeer now has these for 90 each and free shipping, no tax outside CA so could be $180.00)
-Hardware from Bargian fittings including 3 SS ball valves, 2 thermometers, mash braid, etc etc $150.00.
-2 SS 1/2 inch T barbs Ebay 10.00 shipped
-20 feet 3/8 inch Silicone hose, Amazon 25.00 (this was a mistake, I will end up replacing with 1/2 inch because the wall thickness of the 3/8 inch stuff from amazon is too thin and the hose isn't going to last, i can already tell after using it only once)
-worm drive clamps Lowes $5.00
So I'm in for a little over $500.00 however if you already have some of the stuff or don't use all SS hardware and kettles you could do it for significantly less.
I went with a little giant pump since they are reportedly maybe a little more durable and robust). The basic setup I'm using is my built-in bar-b-que island as my stand using my DSC dual side burners as the heat source which actually worked well with this size kettle and had no problem bringing and holding 7 gallons to boil. You could easily to the same thing with more btu's using 2 propane burners.
The basic setup is to run two hoses, one from each kettle ball valve to the first SS T barb out of the T barb (a single hose) to the pump return. Then a single hose from the pump out to the second T barb which gives you 2 return hoses. Approximately 3.5 gallons in each kettle. Mash kettle 1 heated to strike temp, dough in then recirculate mash by keeping the ball valve on kettle 2 closed and both return hoses going tot he top of the mash kettle. When I started my simulated mash (I didn't actually brew, just wanted to test it out) there was no fire on the mash kettle but I started heating my sparge water and the heat from that held my mash temp exactly at 150 even with continuous recirculating which I typically wouldn't be doing for the 15 minute test.
For the sparge I just opened the ball valve on the sparge kettle and placed one return hose to each kettle and continue to sparge until there is equal density of the wort in both kettles. It took about 5 minutes for the temperature to equilibrate in both kettles. I will probably just run the sparge recirulate for about 30 minutes. Then you just close the ball valve on kettle 2 and put both returns to kettle 2 to move all the wort there. I will probable then add an extra gallon or so of 170 degree water heated seperately in a 3rd small pot to get a final rinse of the grist to hopefully increase efficiency and hit pre-boil volume.
Anyway just to summarize all I am doing is instead of making a large single loop like in a Brutus system going from sparge kettle to pump 1 to mash kettle to pump 2 back to sparge kettle what I am doing is making 2 smaller loops out from both sparge kettle and mash kettle into the pump then back to both sparge kettle and mash kettle. The final effect should be the same, that is equal SG wort in both kettles at the end of recirculation then all wort moved back to sprage/boil kettle. Then a small batch sparge to hit volume and get last bit of goodness fromt he grain.
I'll update when I run my first real session. A couple things I learned from my wet run was I bought the wrong tubing and shouldn't have cheaped out there. I should have gotten the QD rather than the worm clamps since it wouldn't have added much extra cost and the clamps are hard on the hose, especially the cheap stuff I got so I am going to need the QD anyway.