stainless braid hose for filter

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Kershner_Ale

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Any tricks of the trade to removing the ends (the crimping and connections) off a stainless braid hose and sliding the rubber tubing out without messing up the braid? Just thought I'd ask folks with experience before I screw something up and have to make one more trip to Lowes for a new hose.

Thanks!
 
Not really no tricks as far as i know.. just go slow, use good pliers to grip one end and slide it off the other, carefully.. jsut be a little careful because the exposed braid is a little fragile.

you can cut the braid with a hacksaw, or use a dremel..
 
I cut the ends off with a dremel (or an angle grinder - cant remember) BIGGEST TIP!!

Make sure you PUSH the plastic hose from the SS Braid. It will come out with relative ease once you get it started.
-Me
 
A pair of tree pruning "lopping" shears makes quick work of cutting the braid. Then I found it easy to grab just the inner tubing w/ a pair of needle nose pliers and push the tubing back into the braid to loosen it up. Oh, once free from the inner tubing, if the braid is frayed, you can just trim it with a decent pair of scissors.
 
Slow and patient, is the trick. I used tin snips to cut the ends off, but a dremel works great as well.

I forced some of the braid down a bit, then grabbed the hose with a needle nose pliers, then slowly pulled, and every now and then I would compress the braid, then pull some more, then compress, then pull. The braid is similar to those old "Chinese finger torture" toys; when you grasp the ends and try to stretch the braid, it becomes tighter, and when you grasp the ends and push towards each other, the braid loosens.

fingertrap.jpg


If you look at the braid you will see it's exactly the same design only around the nylon core. If you realize that, then removing the core from the braid is pretty easy.

From the wiki about the finger trap.

There is nothing special about the bamboo or other material. The tightening is simply a normal behaviour of a cylindrical braid, usually the common biaxial braid. Pulling the braid lengthens and narrows it. The length is gained by reducing the angle between the warp and weft threads at their crossing points, but this reduces the distance between them and hence the circumference. The more one pulls the more the circumference shrinks (i.e. the trap tightens). The same effect is used in specialized textile manufacturing, and by fly-fishers
 
:mug:
They might not be so decent afterwards though. I'd use something stronger, most scissors aren't made for cutting metal.


Point I was trying to make is that if your braid is frayed or has some loose strands on the end, the wires are so fine, they likely could be cut / trimmed w/ a pair of scissors from the dollar store. Trying to use a grinder, dremel or tin snips IMO would be futile.

I'm in real trouble if I have to start using all my tools for their intended purpose...hah...:mug:
 
Point I was trying to make is that if your braid is frayed or has some loose strands on the end, the wires are so fine, they likely could be cut / trimmed w/ a pair of scissors from the dollar store.

The fine wires also hurt like a motherf--er if while squeezing them to un-fray them a bit, you instead shove them 1/2" into your fingertip.

I'm in real trouble if I have to start using all my tools for their intended purpose...hah...:mug:

:fro:

TOOL DEFINITIONS

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing grease out of.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
 
I used a hacksaw. It got a little messy as I got down to the last strands, but it worked. If you have something better as mentioned before, prefer that.
 
I used an offset grider with a metal cut-off disc to cut off the fittings, then used sheet metal shears to trim the ends of the braid. No hassle and no injuries.
 
Sounds like you've already purchased your braided hose. In the water heater section of the big box hardware stores are the 3/4" SS braided hoses. Same price as the 1/2" give or take a buck, and the larger hoses are more resistant to squashing ("squashing is a technical term used by brewers of pumpkin ales).

Plus the larger braid provides more surface area for filtering in a given length.

Good Luck...
 
Dunno:

At some point the larger hoses would allow larger particles to pass, but I don't know where that point is found.

The 3/4" hose works well for me. I'd only be speculating about hoses larger than what I use.

But I've seen false bottoms that have holes much larger in diameter than those on braided mesh.
 
I just used lineman's pliers to snip the ends off the hose. I had a washing machine hose so I was able to make two braids out of that plus use the hose connection ends to use on my immersion chiller. Later it just turned into an easy way to have an accessory hose on my sink to clean cornies etc anything that is not in the sink. (note: floor drain is a must)
 
I used a hacksaw and I think the trick to getting the mesh off of the rubber is to push from one side, rather then pull from the other. Just gradually push it up a few inches, then it'll come off easily.

~r~
 
you can roll the edge inside the tube also. gives you nice clean edges. your hose clamp holds better too (IMO) I also installed a stainless spring inside mine to keep it from crushing.
 
I wrapped some tape around the braid before I cut it with a hacksaw to keep the sharp pointy ends slightly more contained in something other than my finger. I also left the hose inside it attached on one end so I'd have something to hold while I got the first bit pushed off.

Also, definitely push, not pull.
 
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