Blonde Ale Centennial Blonde (Simple 4% All Grain, 5 & 10 Gall)

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Have a batch of this in the ferm chest that I brewed up yesterday morning.. I rehydrated the Nottingham and good thing I checked on it today.. Needed a blowoff tube! Even with using fermcap to knock down the krausen this thing is fermenting like mad!


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Cowboy, see Post #10, page 1 of this thread. I did it a couple months back and it is good beer.

Steep the grains - carapils- in a gal or so of 150-160 degree water for 20 to 30 mins then remove and discard.

For partial boil add desired volume of additional water to pot, bring to a boil. (I used 3 gal in a 4 gal pot) Take off heat and add part of the extract (I did 2 lbs). Then bring back to a boil and follow the hop schedule for the 5 gal grain recipe. At/before the end of the boil add the rest of the extract (3 lbs).

I used golden DME and wyeast american ale yeast. I have another batch in fermenter using extra light DME, Pilsen lme, 3/4 lb carapils, 1/3 lb crystal 10 and 1/4 lb honey malt....will see which I like more.....I may dry hop this one.
 
Cowboy, see Post #10, page 1 of this thread. I did it a couple months back and it is good beer.

Steep the grains - carapils- in a gal or so of 150-160 degree water for 20 to 30 mins then remove and discard.

For partial boil add desired volume of additional water to pot, bring to a boil. (I used 3 gal in a 4 gal pot) Take off heat and add part of the extract (I did 2 lbs). Then bring back to a boil and follow the hop schedule for the 5 gal grain recipe. At/before the end of the boil add the rest of the extract (3 lbs).

I used golden DME and wyeast american ale yeast. I have another batch in fermenter using extra light DME, Pilsen lme, 3/4 lb carapils, 1/3 lb crystal 10 and 1/4 lb honey malt....will see which I like more.....I may dry hop this one.

Thanks for your help. The temperature in the closet I ferment in is getting warmer..74-75 and could get warmer during the mid day. Wiill the American ale yeast be ok?

Thanks again
 
Thanks for your help. The temperature in the closet I ferment in is getting warmer..74-75 and could get warmer during the mid day. Wiill the American ale yeast be ok?

Thanks again

That's definitely much too warm. Look into using a swamp cooler for cheap and effective temp control. It's also not that hard to convert a chest freezer into a fermentation chamber.
 
That's definitely much too warm. Look into using a swamp cooler for cheap and effective temp control. It's also not that hard to convert a chest freezer into a fermentation chamber.


+1
I did the exact same progression:
First two batches fermented too warm in the closet, next two fermented cooler in a swamp cooler (Rubbermaid container filled with water to height of beer, swap out ice packs/bottles - which was kind of a pain in the butt to keep a steady temp - but still better than no temp control!), then I bought a used chest freezer on craigslist, an STC-1000 on eBay, and some parts (~$100 all in; could be cheaper depending on parts you may already have or deal you can get on freezer/fridge)... Best investment in my beer I've made!



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That's definitely much too warm. Look into using a swamp cooler for cheap and effective temp control. It's also not that hard to convert a chest freezer into a fermentation chamber.

Will have to go with swamp cooler or something very cheap. I just finished my Keezer and my wife would kill me if I took on another costly home brew hobby project. Keezer "4our"
Any direction to something that doesn't need constant attention and can be contolled enough to give me good results would be greatly appreciated.

This sounds like a beer that I would really like so I want to brew it some kind of bad.
 
My ferm chamber is a chest freezer I scored for $80 out of a buddy's garage with a $20 STC controller.

How about a wine fridge? I can find those around the $50 range and it doesn't take up that much space. I'm down to my walk-in closet for fermenting space, so a deep freezer would be out, too big. The wine fridge would work until winter I think? Then I would need to install a temp controller on it and a heating pad. I think a mini fridge seems like a lot of work and all I'm finding on craigslist is the units with the compressor hump in the bottom taking up half the floor space.
 
Any refrigeration unit will work. You might even get lucky and not have to do any wiring at all because wine temp storage temps are not all that far from beer fermentation temps.
 
Any refrigeration unit will work. You might even get lucky and not have to do any wiring at all because wine temp storage temps are not all that far from beer fermentation temps.

Well thanks for your help. I'm going to start looking for something to ferment in. Once I have that together I will send you a copy of my recipe with instructions if you don't mind - just to look over to make sure I haven't missed anything.

Thanks
 
How would I make this beer sweet, smooth and creamy like a cream soda but without the vanilla? Should I up the carapils? Any thoughts on adding lactose? Maybe cold some conditioning for the smoothness?

I brewed it last year using the original recipe and it was a hit. I'm happy with the way it is, but some friends requested this change.
 
I would just mash it at 156 to 158 degrees and see if you like that first. I dont think carapils will do anything, thats mainly for head retention. Not sure about the lactose. Lactose in a lighter colored beer doesn't even sound good to me other then a stout. Adding honey malt will give you a sweeter beer as well. Just my experience though.
 
I've read about half this thread and have seen people use different yeast than the Nottingham, but don't remember seeing anything about Danstar BRY-97 American West Coast yeast. AHS sent me an extra that is used for a different kit with my order and I am trying to decide whether to use that or US-05. Are there any reasons not to use the BRY-97? I always use dry yeast and when possible I use US-05. I would rather have the US-05 available as a backup if possible, especially since I bought the AHS Kalamazoo IPA that uses US-05. So am I good to go with the BRY-97? Will the flavor differ much from US-05 to BRY-97?
 
I have made four batches of this recipe, including five gallons siphoned over four pounds of crushed blueberries in the secondary. Big fan. For the MGD crowd this beer is a great intro to home brew. The hop schedule is beautiful, with hints of citrus. Quite subtle. But it fades fast. Had some complaints the beer is bland. But I love it. I have also noticed the beer begins hazy but after a few weeks stored in chilled bottles it becomes brilliant. Chicks dig this beer. The blueberry version was a bit of a disappointment, but purple beer is always fun to serve.

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Anyone ever use the ten gallon recipe to make a five gallon batch?


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Yes. Works great. I've done it a few times. I've adjusted it down to 3 gallons as well.

EDIT: I realize now you may be talking about using the 10 gallon grain bill and hops for a 5 gallon batch? If so, ignore my comment!
 
I've done the 10 gallon hop additions in a 5 gallon batch. Works very jicely


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Brewing this Friday or Saturday. maybe getting out of work Friday, so if I do, Ill brew. if not, Saturday it is. have brewed it 2 times before. First was amazing and didnt last long at all, second was great, but not as good.

I think Ill try 1056 this time. Is 1 smack pack enough? Or should I go with 2?? I feel 1 would be plenty for this. No time for a starter, but usually wouldnt make a strter for a 1.044 beer.

Also, thinking os using Citra and Cascade for the hops. Any advice??
 
Brewing this Friday or Saturday. maybe getting out of work Friday, so if I do, Ill brew. if not, Saturday it is. have brewed it 2 times before. First was amazing and didnt last long at all, second was great, but not as good.

I think Ill try 1056 this time. Is 1 smack pack enough? Or should I go with 2?? I feel 1 would be plenty for this. No time for a starter, but usually wouldnt make a strter for a 1.044 beer.

Also, thinking os using Citra and Cascade for the hops. Any advice??

No I don't think 1 liquid smack pack is quite enough, you will be under pitching a little. Either do a starter, use 2 smack packs, or get a dry pack of US05. You could us Cascade for bittering and Citra/Cascade for the rest up to you.
 
In the book Yeast, by Chris White (of White Labs), he says that home brewers can use up to 1/2 the standard pitch-count if they're using a pure source, such as a new vial of White Labs or new smackpack of Wyeast yeast. That's why a single pack is generally labeled "pitchable" for brews under 1.056 or so.
 
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My first batch of homebrew, and holy crap is this good! Nice and smooth, well balanced, and very drinkable! Cannot wait to share it. Thanks for the recipe!


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Great easy drinking brew. Brewed up the extract version of this about a month ago. Just in time to start enjoying for the spring/summer. Thanks for the great recipe BierM.
 
No I don't think 1 liquid smack pack is quite enough, you will be under pitching a little. Either do a starter, use 2 smack packs, or get a dry pack of US05. You could us Cascade for bittering and Citra/Cascade for the rest up to you.

Thats kinda what I was thinking. I know it would be underpitching, and I have brewed full batches off 1 pack/ vial before, but I am looking for a quick ferment and clear as I need the beer for a party on May 10th. have an empty tap and want something quick and easy for it. Easier to spend a few more bucks and get enough yeast. I dont have time for a starter or I would go that way as I usually do.
 
I'm getting set to brew this one again. The first batch was a big success, brewed with 100% homegrown hops from my garden. Simple, clean and crisp session beer. Cheers👍


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BM,

Thanks for the recipe, this looks fantastic! I'm hosting a large brew day for all of my friends & family (mostly non-craft beer drinkers) and I was looking for something light and refreshing for them to try.

We will be brewing the extract version together and will consume them during camping. :)
 
I am thinking about brewing this but using a Belgian Yeast. Has anyone done this. Any thoughts,suggestions,advice.....?
 
Been in the bottle for 3 weeks now, and took one into my LHBS; they said it tasted great! Thanks again for the recipe!


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Just brewed this yesterday. my OG was a bit higher though due to my higher eff. OG was 1.046. its been 15 hours and i already see activity in the carboy. :ban:
 
First ever all grain brew went okay...got a stuck sparge but hit everything on mark. Was happy that I ended with exactly 5 gallons after my full boil.
 
Ok, ok. So I am in, but nervous. I have to have a third keg of beer ready for drinking for the-last-day-of-the-school-year party being held on May 30, 2014. The absolute earliest I can brew is Friday, May 9….. That is 21 days from grain to glass. I have read the threads and everyone said it can be done…. Doesn’t it taste green? I mean even a little??

So I ask all that have preceded: Can this be done? The audience is about 20 percent craft beer drinkers, 80 percent BMC. I want something light like a lager.

I would want to follow the original recipe, but I want to change the yeast. I already have an Irish Red which fermented with Notty, and I want to add variety. My other beer is an American IPA, hopped up and bitter. So I need something on the other end of the spectrum. This recipe looks to be it. The yeast I want to use is WL060 the California Blend…. It’s supposed to have a “lager like” finish. Has anyone used this yeast for anything? Can I use it with this recipe? Will it finish quick enough? I figure 4-5 days in the primary, and another 6-7 days in the secondary, then, in the keg it goes, to be forced carbed and cold crashed – at the same time. My plan was to set the psi at about 30 for 24 hours, purge, then lower it to 12. Any thoughts on this idea? I don’t want too much foam, or too little carb.
Can it be done? I have never used this yeast before and would love some feedback. I did not plan on using a starter. I would hate to serve the beer if its green….. oh the dilemmas!
 
21 days is plenty of time. I did this beer in 10 days for a retirement party. I carbed at 30 PSI for two days then served it. It was a hit. It was a little cloudy but it wasn't green tasting at all. I've never used WL 060 and don't know anything about it, but I'd just make it with the Notty. Most likely nobody will know the difference anyway.
 
Ok. Thx for the quick response. Not 100% on the 060. I just want to try it and this seems like a nice place for it. I will post as I go along. And I still want feedback. Btw was that 10 days all primary? Then just kegged? Man that seems fast
 
Ok. Thx for the quick response. Not 100% on the 060. I just want to try it and this seems like a nice place for it. I will post as I go along. And I still want feedback. Btw was that 10 days all primary? Then just kegged? Man that seems fast

Yep. Kegged it at 7 days. It was done fermenting in three. That is why the Notty is such a good choice for this beer, especially if you are in a hurry.

I don't use gelatin but use Whirlfloc in the boil. What was left cleared up a few days after the party. If you go to keg at about 14 you will probably have nice clear beer to serve.
 
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