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I am not sure exactly what that means... I think you are saying the relay will work, but I may not have exact temp reading after continued use. If that is the case I may just take out the relay and put in the 1500w element if I need to. I will test it and report back after using it for a while. Thanks for the heads up.

Scott...
 
Where did you guys get your SS tubing to drop the thermocouple down into the MLT? Is it just crimped at the end or soldered? I am assuming you would want the water in the tube, but I wasn't sure.

Thanks, Scott...
 
I am not sure exactly what that means... I think you are saying the relay will work, but I may not have exact temp reading after continued use. If that is the case I may just take out the relay and put in the 1500w element if I need to. I will test it and report back after using it for a while. Thanks for the heads up.

Scott...

If you start with a brand new brand stat controlling the element taking the load instead of the relay the pitting process has already started and that stats contacts are pitted. I found this out with failed stat contacts with hot tubs until I replaced another high dollar stat but had it control a relay instead. The stats contacts stayed clean not pitted with temps held within 0.10*F for many years. Hot tubs are a money making product they don't care if it fails after a years use. Your call.
 
Where did you guys get your SS tubing to drop the thermocouple down into the MLT? Is it just crimped at the end or soldered? I am assuming you would want the water in the tube, but I wasn't sure.

Thanks, Scott...

SS corney keg dip tube. Just crimp, fold and crimp the end. You do NOT want water in the tube.
 
Pol - I'll fess up - I lost the part #'s that I laboriously wrote down as I read all 37 pages the first time. Got the stirrer, propeller and shaft coupler numbers OK - but I'm having a hard time with the Loc-Line. Did you just use 10095K12 (the 1/2 by 13" line with a 1/2" nozzle) or did you combine other parts? I seem to recall a conversation about how hard it is to put a Gray gizmo on the line - but it's all a blur. Got Part #'s? Also - why did you use the PVC cap to hold the heater element instead of the locknut from Bargain fittings? :eek:
 
I just ordered mine, so I thought I would post my list. I made a mistake on the additional loc-line, so I edited the screen shot. This may not be exactly what you need to order, but for the most part it is complete. Disregard the hex nut at the bottom. That is the wrong one. The one you need is at bargainfittings.com

parts.jpg
 
Excellent! Thanks smuth10. I just found the description (again) of how he mounted the element on page 10. I'll do it the same way, but have to include a tabbed copper washer to get a ground (neutral) contact for my 240 volt element. Since the Bargain Fittings locknut includes a silicone o-ring for an inside seal - would it be OK to leave out the original element seal on the outside?
 

Plugged and welded looks so much more sanitary besides professional vs hammering the end flat and folding it over. Tacky is the only kind word I can come up with at the moment. I would pot the probe in a little heat sink paste added to the end of the stainless tube then sink the probe into it for faster heat transfer.
 
Pol - I'll fess up - I lost the part #'s that I laboriously wrote down as I read all 37 pages the first time. Got the stirrer, propeller and shaft coupler numbers OK - but I'm having a hard time with the Loc-Line. Did you just use 10095K12 (the 1/2 by 13" line with a 1/2" nozzle) or did you combine other parts? I seem to recall a conversation about how hard it is to put a Gray gizmo on the line - but it's all a blur. Got Part #'s? Also - why did you use the PVC cap to hold the heater element instead of the locknut from Bargain fittings? :eek:

Because Bargain Fittings was not known at the time 7-2008, a lot of the fist electric rigs out there were using CPVC and such. Since then E-rigs have evolved a lot, as you have witnessed here on HBT alone. I have used the BF nuts, but right now I prefer SS half couplers as they are more cost effective and provide a smaller dia. footprint (able to mount elements lower when doing a side install)

The LocLine is easy to assemble until you get to the threaded adapter, that is difficult. I boiled mine, used oven mits, and smashed them together, or you can buy the tool that McMaster sells.

Just picked up some 304 SS square tube today for $35 per 20' length... cutting and TIG welding that next week for another build...
 
could you maybe post a pic of thermowell deal of putting the thermocouple in the hlt?

I cant seem to locate a photo, and no longer own this rig... sorry. Ever seen the thermowells that they sell for fermenting? It is just like that, but without the airlock hole.
 
Because Bargain Fittings was not known at the time 7-2008, a lot of the fist electric rigs out there were using CPVC and such. Since then E-rigs have evolved a lot, as you have witnessed here on HBT alone. I have used the BF nuts, but right now I prefer SS half couplers as they are more cost effective and provide a smaller dia. footprint (able to mount elements lower when doing a side install)

The LocLine is easy to assemble until you get to the threaded adapter, that is difficult. I boiled mine, used oven mits, and smashed them together, or you can buy the tool that McMaster sells.

Just picked up some 304 SS square tube today for $35 per 20' length... cutting and TIG welding that next week for another build...


That's strange my first electric brewery assembled in 100% stainless I Tig welded my own dry well plugs back in January 1992 after I purchased my second Miller 350 Tig welder. I used those mechanical 1 1/2" dial pocket thermometers you thumped to move the needle 4 degrees.You were probably having your milk and gram crackers then your nap time in school back then.
 
Because Bargain Fittings was not known at the time 7-2008, a lot of the fist electric rigs out there were using CPVC and such. Since then E-rigs have evolved a lot, as you have witnessed here on HBT alone. I have used the BF nuts, but right now I prefer SS half couplers as they are more cost effective and provide a smaller dia. footprint (able to mount elements lower when doing a side install)

The LocLine is easy to assemble until you get to the threaded adapter, that is difficult. I boiled mine, used oven mits, and smashed them together, or you can buy the tool that McMaster sells.

Just picked up some 304 SS square tube today for $35 per 20' length... cutting and TIG welding that next week for another build...

What size square tube are you using? $35 sounds like a deal
 
I am in the process of setting up The Pol's HERM system and I have a few questions regarding the grounding and wiring of everything. Not real knowledgeable in the electrical dept, so I was hoping someone could help me out. Both the Element and stir motor only have two wires\terminals and I know it is best to ground them.

How am I supposed to do this when there is no ground terminal?
Do I just screw the ground in with the common? If so, I was going to just wire the ground into a triple gang box and back to the pug and panel. This would be better than grounding to a metal plate, correct? ( I have a wood stand)

Pol, how did you mount your stir motor on the top of the cooler? I know there and threaded holes on the bottom, but I do not want to put holes all the way through the lid for this. What type of wire did you use to wire the stir motor up to your switches?

Thanks, Scott...
 
What size square tube are you using? $35 sounds like a deal

1.25" square tube

.125" wall

Free Tig Weld and chemical cleanup of the steel

I have a friend in the business.

$35 per 20' is the cost of mild steel... $199 for 20' was the cost of SS before the "discount"

Peace....
 
My build is progressing slowly - mostly 'cause I keep adding to it. The latest thing that I want is a simple timed alarm - set it for 30 or 60 minutes (or whatever) to sound a LOUD alarm so that I remember to set the PID to the next temperature for the mash. Seems really simple - but I've been looking for a "cheap" alarm that's audible (excludes kitchen alarms) that works off 110 volts and mounts in the control panel with no luck. Even the timer on the Auber website is kinda high considering what I want to do. Is anyone else doing this and can point me in the right direction? I hate wearing watches - and the ones with an alarm are not really audible if I'm working in the shop. :(
 
Hrmmm, mine was 1/2".... maybe you will have to?
Pol, I know this is much much later, but where exactly did you find a 12" false bottom with a 1/2" elbow barb? I can only find the 12" fb with 3/8" and I don't wanna run all around Chicago looking for a 1/2" fitting in SS that may not exist. Might be easier to return mine and buy a new fb with the right 1/2" fitting.
 
Fc36,

I am obviously not Pol, I think he has stopped using this forum over some drama with another one of his builds. Anyways I read in this post where he said that his elbow barb was 3/8" and he didn't think it would cause a problem. There is a possibility that he changed it later but I have not ever read that he did for sure. I see you quoted him saying his was 1/2", is he referring to his false bottom barb?

Anyways I have a nearly identical MLT and I use a 3/8 SS barb. I really have no way of knowing if would get more flow out of a 1/2" (everything else in my setup is 1/2") but I can say that it doesn't bottleneck my system. Mcmaster Carr has 1/2inch barb to 1/2" NPT elbow's but I think they are crazy expensive. Maybe try bargainfittings, if you must have it 1/2" you could use a 1/2" street elbow and a normal barb.
 
Fc36,

I am obviously not Pol, I think he has stopped using this forum over some drama with another one of his builds. Anyways I read in this post where he said that his elbow barb was 3/8" and he didn't think it would cause a problem. There is a possibility that he changed it later but I have not ever read that he did for sure. I see you quoted him saying his was 1/2", is he referring to his false bottom barb?

Anyways I have a nearly identical MLT and I use a 3/8 SS barb. I really have no way of knowing if would get more flow out of a 1/2" (everything else in my setup is 1/2") but I can say that it doesn't bottleneck my system. Mcmaster Carr has 1/2inch barb to 1/2" NPT elbow's but I think they are crazy expensive. Maybe try bargainfittings, if you must have it 1/2" you could use a 1/2" street elbow and a normal barb.

I have a few thoughts on this: 1) I am overthinking this and one part of my system shouldn't have that much impact downstream on other components as far as flowrate, pressure and what have you. 2) I am a chemical engineer and I just want it to look right and work right. I have found 1/2" NPT by 1/2" barb elbows in brass, nylon and PE for about $10-15 with shipping, but I want SS because that's what the f*cking false bottom came with and it looks snazzy. 3) I thought of the 1/2" street elbow with a 1/2" barb and it is way too large and bulky looking for my taste. Additionally, it's in brass and not SS, so I lose the snazz factor. 4) I may just get a 1/2" SS barb from bargainfittings and just let my hose do the turning for me. I'll keep the snazz factor and eliminate a potential bottleneck in my system. Thoughts patrick?
 
I think that would work fine. I was a little annoyed myself when I couldn't find a elbow barb of the right size. I know what you mean about over worrying things I am an electrical engineer and have a tendancy to want to over design things even when it may not be necessary. Maybe call bargainfittings and see if they have ever seen that kind if fitting anywhere. Even a pm would work he is pretty active on the forum.
 
I think that would work fine. I was a little annoyed myself when I couldn't find a elbow barb of the right size. I know what you mean about over worrying things I am an electrical engineer and have a tendancy to want to over design things even when it may not be necessary. Maybe call bargainfittings and see if they have ever seen that kind if fitting anywhere. Even a pm would work he is pretty active on the forum.

One step ahead of you buddy. I contacted Wayne at bargainfittings and he replied right away. He says he has a SS 1/2" elbow barb for $15 from a vendor of his. It's a bit pricey, so I'll have to wait to justify such a purchase. Costs almost half of what the damn false bottom cost by itself, but may be worth it to spring for it instead of paying $11.50 for a SS 1/2" hose barb and having the hose potentially be kinked by my grain load.
 
Exactly. I didn't realize he had the elbow barbs else I would have already ordered one. I'll probably get one myself. I'd recommend bargain fittings all day long. I was looking at buying SS unions for my keg HLT and it was looking like 27 bucks each from Mcmaster. He told me he had them for 6 each. At first I was nervous about the quality but I installed them and tightened them down and they worked great. I know what you mean about the SS swag, if you check out my build thread you can see most of what I got. Honestly it doesn't look like much but it adds up very fast. My thinking was that I would use it forever. Do it right the first time and I don't think you will regret it.
 
4) Can you confirm you need a 1/2" elbow nipple from false bottom in mash tun? Right now I have 3/8", but thought that would restrict the flow too much.

Many people use 3/8, but 1/2 just flows better.

4) You do not NEED 1/2" elbow from your false bottom. You are never going to use FULL PORT flow from the MLT anyway, right? All other plumbing I would suggest being 1/2".

Patrick and anyone else looking in on the false bottom portion of the thread need look nowhere else. I did some digging and found these on page 17 of this thread regarding the 3/8" elbow barb commonly found on 12" SS false bottoms. Guess I won't be taking up bargainfittings on their offer of a 1/2" elbow barb for $15 plus their standard $5 flat rate for shipping after all. :ban: Hooray! Now I don't need to blow another $20 on one single part until I get the itch a few months after completing this build and decide why not and spring for it anyways. Good old beer always helps delay the inevitable expenditure too. Hopefully I can complete this bad boy within the month and brew a wicked christmas ale on it for the holiday season.
 
Patrick and anyone else looking in on the false bottom portion of the thread need look nowhere else. I did some digging and found these on page 17 of this thread regarding the 3/8" elbow barb commonly found on 12" SS false bottoms. Guess I won't be taking up bargainfittings on their offer of a 1/2" elbow barb for $15 plus their standard $5 flat rate for shipping after all. :ban: Hooray! Now I don't need to blow another $20 on one single part until I get the itch a few months after completing this build and decide why not and spring for it anyways. Good old beer always helps delay the inevitable expenditure too. Hopefully I can complete this bad boy within the month and brew a wicked christmas ale on it for the holiday season.

Do it. Just be sure to send me one of those X-mas ales, it gets cold in FL. in winter. (Okay maybe not too cold, but was worth a shot).
 
Do it. Just be sure to send me one of those X-mas ales, it gets cold in FL. in winter. (Okay maybe not too cold, but was worth a shot).
Update:
I decided since I've got a MAP gas torch and some lead-free solder lying around to take matters into my own hands. For roughly $6 I bought a 1/2" NPT female hose barb, a 1/2" copper 90 elbow and two 1/2" NPT male fittings. I sweated the male fittings and the 90 elbow together, threaded on the hose barb with a little tef-tape and then used the two 1/2" SS locknuts from my false bottoms original elbow barb and now I have a slightly larger, slightly more awkward, but all 1/2" setup.
DSC01756.JPG

DSC01757.JPG

DSC01758.JPG
 
Update:
I decided since I've got a MAP gas torch and some lead-free solder lying around to take matters into my own hands. For roughly $6 I bought a 1/2" NPT female hose barb, a 1/2" copper 90 elbow and two 1/2" NPT male fittings. I sweated the male fittings and the 90 elbow together, threaded on the hose barb with a little tef-tape and then used the two 1/2" SS locknuts from my false bottoms original elbow barb and now I have a slightly larger, slightly more awkward, but all 1/2" setup.

Sweet, thanks for the followup. Looking good.
 
Hello,

Does anybody have a copy of the spreadsheet Pol sent out for the HERMS temp calculation with regards to this system?

Thanks
harley03

I've also been trying to get a copy of that spreadsheet, but to no avail.
 
Smuth10,

Thank you that's exactly what I was looking for! Saves me from trying to figure out the formulas.

Do you currently use a system like this? How do you like it?

harley03:rockin:
 
I built my system based off of this thread. It is pretty much exact and works like a charm. I didn't want a completely automated system, so this was perfect for me. I actually like doing a lot of the work as I think you learn more. I just wanted to make it easier to control temps and transfer the wort around and this fit the bill for me. It really is great, just make sure you spend extra time sealing the bottom of the HLT around the element.
 
Yes I would agree I think that this system is going to work very well for my needs right now. I am in the process of building another system which is a whole lot more complicated than this one and have basically stopped since I have researched this one.

If this works like I think it will this will most likely be my only system.

Also you are correct I had some leaks around the element and ball valve in the inside of the cooler during water testing. I just added some silicone sealer to the element and valve and that did the trick.
 
NP. Just glad I still had it. Now that I am used to the system I don't find myself using it anymore. FWIW.
 
I am getting out of the hobby and have this system. I will be posting it up in the for sale section hopefully soon. I have the excel spreadsheet formula also if anybody needs it.
 
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