My New HERMS Setup

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I finally got around to taking photos of my upgraded rig. This was a "dry" run of 15 gallons of Star San solution to test and clean everything out.

First, I've installed a good quality water filter on the stand.
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Here is a shot of the system setup as if it was recircluating the mash (except I cut off the pump which is right under the top frame).
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Here it is setup for sparging.
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And into the boil kettle.
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Most excellent!!! How long to dump to the conical and what is the finished temp?

I want all your gear inside my brewhaus. What's your address? I'll send a truck. :D
 
That was my first time using the new wort chiller, so I did it pretty slow. Probably took 20 mins. I had pre-chilled the fermentation cabinet down to 32 degrees to assist. I'm not certain the temp on the backside of the wort chiller but it was cool to the touch... just ordered a Thrumometer to add inline so I can get an exact reading.
 
Thats really damn cool. What kind of fridge is that fermenator in. Is that a laboratory fridge.
 
Well, I hate to admit this but last night as I started sparging, my wife and boys showed up and I forgot to kill the heat in the HLT. If you've been following one of my other threads, this is something that will be fool-proof with my "Brew Monitor" application.

This is what happens when you run a heating element out of water... damnit.
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So, I decided to use this as a chance to upgrade from 3500 watts to 5500 watts. It was doubled up and somewhat flexible at the bend, so I bent it around to stick up through the middle of the HERMS coil to more evenly heat the HLT.
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JB, did you do any write-ups on your electric element wiring? I'm about to make "The Jump" over to the electric side, and I'm sh!tting myself in fear that I'll do something wrong. Also, I'll be waiting with antici-----pation for the new controller write-up.

Like the new element, clever! And I, too, fear the getting-distracted-while-an-element-is-on demon. Can't wait to try out the beta of the *ahem* secret project. :D

You da man, JB! Cheers!
C
 
The Love controller is only rated for 16 amps. The new heating element will pull around 22~23 amps. I guess I haven't mentioned I'm in the process or replacing my control panel... I'll post details of it soon.

Are you interested in getting rid of your old loves controllers??
 
Are you interested in getting rid of your old loves controllers??

+1 Let me know if you're parting the old ones out, I'm in the market for one. Was just browsing the site you linked, a few hours ago.
 
Thanks for the inquiries but I'm probably going to hang on to them as I seem to always seem to be coming up with other DIY projects... plus, right before I dismantled the existing control panel, I realized one of the 110v controllers isn't working - all it will do is read the current temp. It might get downgraded to an electronic thermometer.
 
A two pin conductive liquid level probe or one of those stainless floating rings (mechanical hence more that can go wrong or get stuck) float level preventing another low liquid exposed element blowout. Controllers operating near their maximum resistance load like your element I would rather have the controller operate a relay. Relays are cheaper to replace than PID controllers. Let the relay contacts take the beating than your controller. True another electrical item to add to the circuit. JMO.
 
A two pin conductive liquid level probe or one of those stainless floating rings (mechanical hence more that can go wrong or get stuck) float level preventing another low liquid exposed element blowout. Controllers operating near their maximum resistance load like your element I would rather have the controller operate a relay. Relays are cheaper to replace than PID controllers. Let the relay contacts take the beating than your controller. True another electrical item to add to the circuit. JMO.

Believe it or not, that didn't blow the PID, but check this space in another week or so - I am updating my entire rig... ;)
 
They are Love controllers. I got them from Cole-Palmer (Love On/Off Temperature Controllers Search Results - Cole-Parmer Catalog) a few months ago - it looks like Love has redesigned the looks of the controller since then, but all the specs seem the same.

I just bought my LOVE 110v Temperature Controller, Thermistor from Cole Palmer and a thermostat element.

Element will take 20 days to come in for some reason? So, it will be about 3 weeks before I attempt to convert the fridge over.
 
Hi What does everyone think of Lonnie Mac's idea of a Counter-recirculating Re-sparge System. I am starting the plans for my brewing system and i am considering this for the obvios reason that i only need 2 pots and burners. i know i can add another pot and burner down the road but im building a 20gallon system so for now it would be nice to only need 2. the link below explains what the whole thing is about if you dont know what im talking about.
http://www.alenuts.com/Alenuts/brutus20.html
 
Hi What does everyone think of Lonnie Mac's idea of a Counter-recirculating Re-sparge System. I am starting the plans for my brewing system and i am considering this for the obvios reason that i only need 2 pots and burners. i know i can add another pot and burner down the road but im building a 20gallon system so for now it would be nice to only need 2. the link below explains what the whole thing is about if you dont know what im talking about.
http://www.alenuts.com/Alenuts/brutus20.html

I built one and it works well. I don't do the counter circulation thing anymore though. When it gets to that point I heat the rest of the water for mashout in the BK and then just pump that into the MLT then recirculate the MLT for 10 minutes or so. I then pump it all back into to the BK very slowly (.25 gal a minute). By doing this my efficiency went from 58% to 70%.

Mod: Would you mind splitting this out into a new thread for OT?
 
Can you tell me what you used for your thermometer setups? I'm building a HERMS system and ordered a weldless theremomter from morebeer, but i'm guessing i'll be replacing it down the road since the probe isn't protected and is the typical thin stem type. Your probe looks to be more rugged/industrial, and what i'm looking for.
 
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