Wiring Diagram for a HERMS system

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scottstribling

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Have read all the forums and found a few that were adaptable (maybe/not). Here is what I have:

Source Main Panel:
30a, 240v, GFCI feeding a 10/3 + ground wire to a 30a, 240v Pass&Seymour locking outlet.

Control Box Components:
Buzzer, 120/240, FLBuz
Switch, 3 position, 2 NO, SW3 (Power to HLT and BK elements, 4500W, 240v) never on together
Power Light Indicator for HLT and BK elements, IND-1
PID, SYL2352
40A SSR
2 30A, 250V, DPDT, 120V Coil Contactor (HLT and BK)
Power Button (Push Button Illuminated) for Pump, SW11
Timer, ASL-51
Reset Button, Push Button Momentary, SW7

2 Female Pass&Seymour plugs for each element (30A, 240V, 3 Wire)
2 Female 120V plugs for Chugger Pump, 1.4A
1 RTD Sensor

All Buttons, switches, PID, Timer and SSR are from Auber.

Appreciate any help. Hope this is detailed enough.
 
First question: How do you plan to derive power for the 120V pumps, given that you only have 10/2 (+ground?) coming from the breaker box?
 
From what I have seen on previous schematics, the primary power coming in is split between 2 bus bars. I would assume that each bus bar would then be 120v each (BUS 1, 120V) (BUS 2, 120V). Should be 3 BUS bars, B1 120V, B2 120V, B3 Ground. Connect the Hot leg from 120V outlet to B1 and ground to B3.
 
I am not an electrician, but I believe that to do this safely you really need a dedicated neutral that is separate from ground. What you are suggesting will give you 120V power, but you are using your ground as the neutral. This is not recommended, and I would think that it would trip your GFCI breaker.

There are plenty of folks on here who understand this stuff better than I, but I did get the safety warning correct. Can you run 10/3 + ground? The other option is to run 120V from a separate 120V circuit to the panel.
 
Using a single conductor to act as both a neutral for deriving 120v and as a ground for secret is a bad plan and should not be done.
 
Looking at your list a bit more - you have a PID power button - why? Is there ever a time where you're going to want to have the panel on but the PID off? Also, you don't have an SSR, contactors, or fuses listed, all of which are a good idea.
 
True on the PID power button. I have a 40a SSR listed next to the PID. I also have a heat sink for it. What are the contactors used for?
 
Too early..meant power button for PID to be alarm button on , off. Changed power button to alarm. Moved SSR to line item.
 
Poured over numerous wiring diagrams. Not pretty nor perfect. Appreciate any and all help. Changed Ground from PID Pin 9 to Neutral.

Wiring Diagram Submitted.jpg
 
PID needs either Hot 2 and Neutral (120v) or Hot 1 and Hot 2 (240v) for power. Hot 2 and Ground is not a proper wiring solution.
 
I'm looking on my phone and don't have the pin-out for your timer or PID in front of me. I did notice no EPO or power on / off switch. Neither are truly necessary I suppose.
 
So your e-stop button just shorts one leg to ground through a resistor, shutting it down by popping your breaker?

I would not do this. You should run the two hot legs into your box through a GFCI, then into a contactor that is controlled by the e-stop switch. Relying on a breaker to pop as your only safety device is a bad idea IMO. No sense doing an electric build and spending all this money to do so and then cheaping out on a $20 contactor...
 
The EPO debate has been hashed countless times. One side of the fence is that the way you test your GFCI breaker (that little button) does the same thing as letting a small trickle charge go to ground, and thus it should be safe enough for our use. Using the GFCI allows ALL power to be killed to the panel. The other school of thought is that the GFCI is a safety device only and shouldn't be used and that opening the contactor is good enough and the areas of the panel that are still powered are acceptable.

To each their own... but let's not turn his thread into another EPO debate - there are enough of those already.

scottstribling - It looks good to me. You don't have any lights to indicate pump on condition, but that's not really required, your call. I can't tell what rating your fuses are. I'd suggest a 1a for the EPO, maybe a 2a for the PIDs, and a 2 or 3a slow-blow for the pumps.

-Kevin
 
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