Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

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Lylo - You might consider adding some sugar to boost gravity. Mashing 13 lbs in the 20l to yield 5 gals should get you around 1.060 OG. two lbs sugar should boost OG to Around 1.080. Boiling for about 1hr 20 min should get you down to 4 gals with OG around 1.100 which is at the high end of the range for a Barleywine. Extra 20 minutes boil time shouldn't change the color or flavor to much. I think the style takes into account a longer boil.
 
DeGarre said:
Leo, that BM looks so tiny! are you sure it's the 50L version?:D
Click to expand...

Maybe is the angle in the photo hehe

But I am sure haha as I have the large malt pipe as well and the difference from what I saw is only 10cm between the two BM models...

I'm going to make a test batch this weekend, couldn't wait to use it only at Brazil hehe :ban:
 
Question for you owners.
I noticed today while looking inside the pump that the brown coating seems to be flaking off? It is hard to see in the picture but have any of you experienced this? Is it bad?

braupump.jpg
 
Thinking out loud here:

Isn't the bare metal on one of the impeller vanes caused when they remove some to balance the impeller?

Occasionally they might require no balancing - hence no "bare' metal.
 
It was more the flaking of the coating on the impeller (tough to see on the pic, I know), but it seems it is normal wear, so I won't worry about it.
Thanks!
 
My impeller had that "bare spot" on the impeller when I disassembled it for cleaning before I used the BM for the first time - which is why I assumed it was a balancing adjustment.
 
After reading all these posts for several days I made a radical change in course.

I am getting ready to make my first foray into AG brewing. I did not want to WASTE money by getting intermediate products, like a picnic cooler mash tun when I ultimately would get a high quality system.

I was going to buy all the elements for building my own single tier beer brewing sculpture, including pumps, sparge arm, burners, and so on, but then this thread changed my mind. Alas, Blichmann has lost out.

This system is so simple I think I can actually brew in the house and have time to enjoy the process. So I pulled the trigger and ordered today when I got my "now in stock" email from MoreBeer. (They just came in, btw.)

A few things:
I don't want to cut the cord off - I would like to make a conversion cord so I can plug one end into the BM and the other into my modern dryer outlet at 220v. I have not seen clearly how this can be done.

I ordered the insulating Jacket: I hope this helps the boil time. I see all kinds of add-ons for the screens: is this really necessary?

I really debated the 50L vs the 20L, but I think the simplicity and ease of the 20L will be worth it. I want to experiment with many kinds of beer, but I really don't want to drink so much I get fat and lazy! :drunk: The small batches will be fine - and I can always make more!

Thanks for all the info so far!
 
I didn't watch to see if my buddy did anything special but his plugs into a 220 and the other end of the chord into his Braumeister.
The fabric filter you put on the bottom of the malt pipe doesn't stay down when the mash starts circulating so we've been using a stainless steel screen which works much better. Not sure what screen "add ons" you can buy but Id at least replace the bottom fabric screen with a metal one.
I don't know how much the jacket works to bring the boil up faster. It may help more than I realize but to the eye it doesn't seem to do much. The unit only heats to 102C so keeping the lid on seems to be what helps get things moving.

Just as a side note though(this may be blasphemy around here) I think that Braumeisters are fantastic but personally I still prefer my cooler mashtun. Granted I really feel like these systems are meant for brewing European styles that require step mashes. Not single infusion mashes with well modified malts which is what I do 99.9% of the time. My cooler can't run a step mash at the touch of a button and that's where a Braumeister really shines in my eyes.
 
Jette said:
After reading all these posts for several days I made a radical change in course.

I am getting ready to make my first foray into AG brewing. I did not want to WASTE money by getting intermediate products, like a picnic cooler mash tun when I ultimately would get a high quality system.

I was going to buy all the elements for building my own single tier beer brewing sculpture, including pumps, sparge arm, burners, and so on, but then this thread changed my mind. Alas, Blichmann has lost out.

This system is so simple I think I can actually brew in the house and have time to enjoy the process. So I pulled the trigger and ordered today when I got my "now in stock" email from MoreBeer. (They just came in, btw.)

A few things:
I don't want to cut the cord off - I would like to make a conversion cord so I can plug one end into the BM and the other into my modern dryer outlet at 220v. I have not seen clearly how this can be done.

I ordered the insulating Jacket: I hope this helps the boil time. I see all kinds of add-ons for the screens: is this really necessary?

I really debated the 50L vs the 20L, but I think the simplicity and ease of the 20L will be worth it. I want to experiment with many kinds of beer, but I really don't want to drink so much I get fat and lazy! :drunk: The small batches will be fine - and I can always make more!

Thanks for all the info so far!
Click to expand...

See post #2186. Gadget info. Cord is available online. I have the 20L because I like variety. I think the jacket helps but you need to know your system and how it works for you.
 
Just make sure you look at your dryer outlet. There's two types of 220v dryer outlets common in the US (old and new or 3-prong and 4-prong).
 
Just a note: On the female end of the Braumeister cord the openings are vertical not horizontal like shown on that web page. Also the male end is circular similar to a RV/marine application or one that would be used to connect a generator. U.S. dryer/oven plugs have 3 or 4 large flat lugs. One may be L shaped (that's the ground). I brew in the kitchen and modified my plug to fit my range which is a 3 prong plug. In thread #68 I explained how this was done. I have owned my 20L Braumeister for almost 3 years and have no problems except the impeller wearing out which will cost you $60.00 delivered from Germany (Ouch). The thermal jacket does help but because I brew mostly lagers I use a heat stick to get a strong rolling boil.
 
Everything is big there, steaks, Texas, cars, food portions, distances, you name it, but your electricity is lousy 110v and your power cables look like dinky toys.
 
Standard Electric entry and panels in North America are 120/240v. Most houses have a 200A entrance and panel. 240v is used for everything that needs it, and 120v plugs and wiring are far less cumbersome than those used in most of Europe - not to mention the relative safety of 120v.

It's nice NOT to have the potential overloading issues I often experienced with an inadequate entrance/panel capacity when I lived in several European countries.

"Bigger is Better" remains true for many things. :D
 
wasp said:
Standard Electric entry and panels in North America are 120/240v. Most houses have a 200A entrance and panel. 240v is used for everything that needs it, and 120v plugs and wiring are far less cumbersome than those used in most of Europe - not to mention the relative safety of 120v.

It's nice NOT to have the potential overloading issues I often experienced with an inadequate entrance/panel capacity when I lived in several European countries.
:D
Click to expand...

Doesn't a higher voltage make more sense? Lower voltage means you need higher current which means thicker cords and plugs. With 220v or 250v, you can have a thinner wire and lower amperage to get the same watts of power. You also have the option of running higher power items without using such heavy and thick cords as a standard US dryer uses.

I must say, however, that the hodgepodge of outlets and cords around the world is a hassle if you travel to other countries. Thankfully, most appliances can run on either system now.
 
jdebonth said:
Is anyone having trouble with the flow rate through the malt pipe?
Click to expand...

The flow rate might be a bit on the low side if you use the maximum amount of malt (6 kg in the 20L BM). But that's nothing I worry about too much - as long as it flows.

I have also noted that it's sometimes hard to see the flow rate (especially before the wort clears up). It might be easier to check the sides of the malt pipe to check the flow rate.
 
I'm glad to say that I got my new BM20L via FedEx! The corners were banged up on the box, so I wanted to open it and make sure it was okay - based on experience from some others here with damage. I started to open the box before signing for it, and she yanked the box back and rudely informed me she would say I refused deliver unless I signed BEFORE opening it. In my experience with shipping, once you sign the bill of lading you are saying it was received in GOOD condition and it is your problem. Apparently FedEx has a policy about not peaking into the box before signing. Apparently this would slow down their drivers. However, there is some other damage form you can claim if it turns out damaged. I guess another options would be to look at the beat up package, call it damaged, and then they will HAVE to look inside to verify. I had to pay a lot of shipping to Alaska, so I certainly did not want to send it back without checking for damage.

Despite the box, the item was in good condition upon opening. I see they have done a better job with packing and everything was secured so it would not dent and rub! I just have to find a way to rig the cord now so I can use it!
 
Jette said:
I'm glad to say that I got my new BM20L via FedEx! The corners were banged up on the box, so I wanted to open it and make sure it was okay - based on experience from some others here with damage. I started to open the box before signing for it, and she yanked the box back and rudely informed me she would say I refused deliver unless I signed BEFORE opening it. In my experience with shipping, once you sign the bill of lading you are saying it was received in GOOD condition and it is your problem. Apparently FedEx has a policy about not peaking into the box before signing. Apparently this would slow down their drivers. However, there is some other damage form you can claim if it turns out damaged. I guess another options would be to look at the beat up package, call it damaged, and then they will HAVE to look inside to verify. I had to pay a lot of shipping to Alaska, so I certainly did not want to send it back without checking for damage.

Despite the box, the item was in good condition upon opening. I see they have done a better job with packing and everything was secured so it would not dent and rub! I just have to find a way to rig the cord now so I can use it!
Click to expand...


Welcome Braumeister Jette! Did you figure out the cord ok? Note the first one you asked about was the C19 and the BM20 needs C13. (See my post #2186 for a summary of this and other mods.) It is a little annoying they don't ship with a proper US plug, but after I talked to my electrician friend, I realized even in the US there are a few different style 220V plugs!
 
Thanks Nesto. I considered the L6-20P Locking, but my house is already wired with the 4-prong dryer plugs, as it was recently built. I bought a plug for this, but hate to have an electrician come out just to give a blessing on my cord - however, I hate to plug it in without being sure. The new 4 prong plugs have a ground and a neutral, whereas the German CEE 7/7 has 2 grounds one hot 220v, and one neutral. I think your 3-prong just has 2 hot/neutral in alternation and one ground. The cord you listed is a good idea, and looks very nice. I do wish they shipped with a cord or at least a paper list of acceptable options in 3 and 4 prong NEMA standard.
 
ColdJazz said:
The flow rate might be a bit on the low side if you use the maximum amount of malt (6 kg in the 20L BM). But that's nothing I worry about too much - as long as it flows.

I have also noted that it's sometimes hard to see the flow rate (especially before the wort clears up). It might be easier to check the sides of the malt pipe to check the flow rate.
Click to expand...

Something I had once... I didn't tighten down the bow and wing nut very well (it was because of the extra gasket I used). What happens is the gasket at the bottom of the malt pipe doesn't seal well and you get poor flow.
 
Nesto said:
What happens is the gasket at the bottom of the malt pipe doesn't seal well and you get poor flow.
Click to expand...

I assume you mean that the gasket at the bottom of the malt pipe raised up (moved upwards from its position)?
 
Does anyone have any data (or experience) of how the temperature of the wort behaves as it pass through the malt in the malt pipe?

On my 20 litre BM I have noticed a difference of about 3-5 degree celsius from the set temperature (when measuring the wort at the top of the malt pipe). So if the mash temperature is 66 degree celsius the temperature of the wort might be 61-63 degree celsius as it flows out of the top of the malt pipe.

These measurements are obviously quite different from when having the lid on and making a measurement directly after lifting the lid off – and when making a measurement when the lid has been off for a while. It would be interesting to measure the temperature of the malt about one inch below the surface of the grain bed.

I believe, at least have a feeling, that the 50 litres BM might hold the temperature better through the malt pipe – since it both has a heating coil outside the malt pipe as well as one inside the malt pipe.

I am of course very much aware of the fact that the temperature of the wort will decrease as it pass through a medium – especially since the grain bed is quite thick in a BM.

Any sharing of thoughts or experience about the above is very much welcome.
 
ColdJazz said:
I assume you mean that the gasket at the bottom of the malt pipe raised up (moved upwards from its position)?
Click to expand...


Yes. The gasket on the bottom of the malt pipe. If the bow and wing nut are loose, it won't seal well and you will lose flow.

As for temp, I haven't measured often, but the one time I did, the temp was only 1C lower at top of pipe vs display indication. I did do it right after taking lid off; about near the end of the mash.
 
Inodoro_Pereyra said:
Yeah, I got that part. Actually, the "malt tube" was a "grain bucket" in my mind...;)
My point is that, once you got the malt tube hanging over the MLT (the Mash Lauter Tun, the big pot), the sparge water has to be sprinkled slowly over the grain bed. I don't see how you can do that manually, with just a pot of 170*F water.
Click to expand...

I just spare with a Phil's sparge arm over the raised grain vessel with water at 172 F. You will need the hot water kettle up high enough. Otherwise it is easy and IMHO better than flood sparging
 
Nesto said:
As for temp, I haven't measured often, but the one time I did, the temp was only 1C lower at top of pipe vs display indication. I did do it right after taking lid off; about near the end of the mash.
Click to expand...

That is pretty accurate!
Do you have the 20L or the 50L?
Do you mash with the insulation around the BM?
 
ColdJazz said:
That is pretty accurate!

Do you have the 20L or the 50L?

Do you mash with the insulation around the BM?
Click to expand...


20L and I do have the insulation jacket. I was surprised there was that little difference. I expect if I took more measurements there would be a greater differential.
 
There is a temp drop - agree with CJ. I am also not too happy with the intensity of the boil.

Will be getting a jacket for my 20L.
 
cpa4ny said:
There is a temp drop - agree with CJ. I am also not too happy with the intensity of the boil.

Will be getting a jacket for my 20L.
Click to expand...


I'm glad I got the jacket. With it, I get a pretty respectable boil off of 3.8 liters per hour. Haven't tried it without though, don't know how much difference there would be.
 
Greetings Braumeisters. I am Glad to join these ranks as a 20l member..I have not read all the posts yet. I will before asking any questions. I went with the electric convenience to be able to brew indoors. I have not tasted anything brewed on it yet as it was a recent gift. I do have 2 batches in secondary and 2 more in primary. I cannot wait to taste what this very cool 20l machine creates. ( Don't worry I do have good homebrew I am drinking good beer from my Blichmann rims system. )

Cheers
 
I have also noted an upwards difference in temperature from the target. This phenomenon mostly occurs when mashing in (and when mashing in directly at the saccharification rest).

For example, if adding the grains to water which is 66 degrees Celsius, the temperature will rapidly rise 3-4 degrees Celsius above the target temperature.

So if adding grains to a water temperature of 66 degrees Celsius, the temperature would rise to about 69 degrees – then going back to 66 in steps of about 1 degree per minute.

So the wrong mash temperature will be kept for about 3-4 minutes.

I think the above is more likely to happen with bigger grain bills (6 kg). I think this could be caused by the fact that the grains itself is isolating the heat and the temperature probe and that the heat coil is located outside the malt pipe.

When adding the grains the water temperature is lowered which the temperature probe reacts to and starts to heat the water (outside the malt pipe) to meet the correct temperature. But since the water isn't recirculated at this point no "real" adjusment is made to the total water temperature.

When the circulation starts – the heated water (now 3-4 degrees above the target temperature) rises the total water temperature.

But when typing this I'm not sure if the BM keeps the temperature while adding the grains (but I'm sure it does!).

Does anyone else have similar experiences?
 
brewbush said:
Question for you owners.
I noticed today while looking inside the pump that the brown coating seems to be flaking off? It is hard to see in the picture but have any of you experienced this? Is it bad?
Click to expand...
I have the same issue on a 50L. I noticed it after my first brewing session...

I can't see it on your photo, but on mine it looks like one of the tips of the impeller waves have been scraping the housing. I have the problem on both my pumps.

preview.php


Niels

EDIT: Oops... It looks like I should read ahaed when browsing my backlog. The question has been answered a few replies down from the original post.
 
ColdJazz said:
I have also noted an upwards difference in temperature from the target. This phenomenon mostly occurs when mashing in (and when mashing in directly at the saccharification rest).

For example, if adding the grains to water which is 66 degrees Celsius, the temperature will rapidly rise 3-4 degrees Celsius above the target temperature.

So if adding grains to a water temperature of 66 degrees Celsius, the temperature would rise to about 69 degrees – then going back to 66 in steps of about 1 degree per minute.

So the wrong mash temperature will be kept for about 3-4 minutes.

I think the above is more likely to happen with bigger grain bills (6 kg). I think this could be caused by the fact that the grains itself is isolating the heat and the temperature probe and that the heat coil is located outside the malt pipe.

When adding the grains the water temperature is lowered which the temperature probe reacts to and starts to heat the water (outside the malt pipe) to meet the correct temperature. But since the water isn't recirculated at this point no "real" adjusment is made to the total water temperature.

When the circulation starts – the heated water (now 3-4 degrees above the target temperature) rises the total water temperature.

But when typing this I'm not sure if the BM keeps the temperature while adding the grains (but I'm sure it does!).

Does anyone else have similar experiences?
Click to expand...

My guess is that there is an algorithm built into the Braumeister to heat the water more to compensate for the loss of heat due to the "cold" grains (probably activates when you confirm "Malt added").

I am more concerned with the loss of heat during the main mashing. When the internal thermostat is showing, say, 66C - my reading with the Thermopen off the top of the grain bed can give me 2-3 degrees lower. I tend to max out the grain bill to just south of 6 kg - that certainly may have an impact on the circulation of the heated water, which leads to the temp drop.

I think the insulating jacket should help - about to order one.
 

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