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i had thought of that too. but i was toying the idea of having a lid in the bottom so i can get my arm in to scrub and inspect. i would have the spear and dip tube removed. but im unsure if the lid can seal when there is no boss to locate the o-ring. there are add-a-posts that have 1/4"ffl. i don't want to waste a corny to have a lid.. if i did that i could put it in the top.
 
Unless you have very thin elbows, it won't be terribly useful. I'd check a cornie for clearances before embarking on the project.
 
You can fit the corny lids on the top of the standard sanke kegs, I have retrofit a couple for other folks. Make a paper template of the opening and position it on the top in an area away from the embossed warnings in the top and look for at least 1/2" around hole for sealing surface. A 3" hole saw, a bit of grinding, and cutting about 1/4" off the legs on the corny lid retainer and you should be good to go. This lets you retain the spear for use as a standard sanke keg setup if you want.
 
i have an anhieser-busch keg that has this 5 spoked raised pattern. so i would have to use the bottom. which would form a nice sediment trap.. i do not really want to spend the money to do this even though it is very doable:

corny lid - $25
corny gas post /w poppet - $10
corny beer post /w poppet - $10
corny post adapter x 2 - $20
corny gas dip tube (ss) - $3
corny gasket set - $5
corny beer dip tube - $9.........
.................................~$82

my original idea stands. so far ive spent $25 for a triclover clamp and cap. so for another $20 i can get 6 feet of 304 tubing. from that make both dip tubes and weld them though my aforementioned cap. net savings of ~$40. yeah i won't be able to get my hand in it to sponge bath it out. but i will be able to push 10 gallons of beer from the floor into cornies.

the idea of welding the top of a corny on would work, but the beer dip tube might not be long enough.
 
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