Donate a RIMS heater photo??

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The Pol

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Hey guys, I am finishing up an article for a homebrewing publication and would like to include a photo of a RIMS heater. I dont have a RIMS.... anyone here wish to donate a photo of thier handy work?

Ideally it would show the inlet, outlet, temp probe location...

Let me know if you can help me out!

The Pol
 
I posted in another thread, but here:

05-HeatChambered.gif


I'll also try to get one of mine tonight.
 
Heater Element is Camco 02142.

It's actually 1" copper pipe and the element DOES NOT touch the sides. (VERY IMPORTANT)

IMG00114.jpg

IMG00115.jpg
 
Your camera didnt like focussing on that shoot did it? The second to last photo may be useable, I will send it to the editor and see what he thinks when I send the rest of the article.
 
I can take more tonight if you need them. I can even take them on a real camera. My BB Curve wanted to move when I pressed the button.
 
Yeah, a digital cam would be good too, appreciate the pics and diagrams guys!
 
Ohh that is tiight...

Time for Pol Junior to play on Nick.com....
 
Slimer, looks great, so you managed with 1"? I suppose that would improve the overall efficiency no?
 
btw, did you see my post on the ECC board? (sorry to hijack POL, you've been a great inspiration...)
 
haaahahahaha... bcs 460... by embedded control concepts. slimer and i are planning something very similar.
 
Looks cool... but my rig is all set. Id have to do a whole revamp, again... OYE!
 
hahaha i don't think your rig needs to be changed, believe me, right now i'm fighting with how to integrate solenoid 3 ways into mine... or rather, build mine with 3 ways, hard piped, completely modular hlt/mlt/ekettle so all i have to do is replace the heating element in the new ekettle and change the pots in the hlt/mlt and i have 2 water coolers that taste strangely like beer... ;)
 
I am DONE with my rig... I need to use my money for grain and hops bro :mug:
 
Slimer, looks great, so you managed with 1"? I suppose that would improve the overall efficiency no?

I initially started with a much larger container for the heat exchanger but I found the smaller the exchanger, the less dead space there is in the system and as long as you have constant flow past the element, no worries about scorching so a 1" tube works great. I use 2 of these in my system. 1 for the HLT and 1 for the mash.

Linc
 
I use 2 of these in my system. 1 for the HLT and 1 for the mash.

Linc

How's the performance of the one you use for the HLT, i.e. how long does it take to get 8 gallons to 170?

Do you recirc to raise temp, or do you go directly from the hose, to the element, and to the burner?

I take it you must power a pump at the same time as the element. How do you handle the amps?
 
I have to admit that the unit is one that Linc made for me out of 1" pipe. The reason for the 1.5" pipe is to make sure the element doesn't touch the sides. I guess if you are sloppy at soldering, you may get it to touch, otherwise it looks like there's plenty of clearance for the 1" tube.
 
How's the performance of the one you use for the HLT, i.e. how long does it take to get 8 gallons to 170?

Do you recirc to raise temp, or do you go directly from the hose, to the element, and to the burner?

I take it you must power a pump at the same time as the element. How do you handle the amps?
Two pumps and two 1500W elements (27.4A) has almost the same draw as a 240V 5500W Brew Kettle element (22.9). Wire up the system for the 5500W element and you're set.

Also, once the strike water is heated and you mash in, the MLT element duty cycle will not be as much because you are just maintaining temps.
 
so, from say 60F how long does it take to get to 170F (approximately) when recirculating with the throttle fully open/cracked open etc. etc.
 
Hey, slimer. I see that a wire is disconnected on the element. In fact, the MOST IMPORTANT wire!! Ground that thing! :)

Yes, it will be grounded. ;) I do not want to kill myself.

It reminds me of the time I had to retrofit and ground everything around a pool I was working at to be fully grounded in case of lightning.
 
Yeah, that's how I did mine (copper ring). I've also read somewhere on here that someone just drilled and tapped a threaded hole in the element itself. Right on the metal ring. That seems like a pretty good idea if there is room. Better contact.
 
i'd stumbled on this a long time ago and just completely forgot about it! thanks!
 
Hey guys. This is my first post here, been lurking for a bit but this thread prompted me to register and post.

Now on to the reason for my post. I really like the RIMS heater desing and when I saw it the first thing I thought, was how easy it would be to ground this device vs some of the other designs. Have you considered using a store bought ground clamp instead of the copper ring or drilling the element?

Clamps similar to this one MONARCH 965 Clamp; Pipe Bonding Bronze For 1/2 To 1 Inch Water Pipe are used to bond water and gas pipes to ground and would seem to be perfect for this. I had to put this in my last home to comply with code and they can be purchesd from the local big box for a few bucks.
 
Slimer.

Use the copper mounting clamps I included with your element and just put the mounting screw threw the eyelet I put on the green wire. The copper will complete the circuit through the tube.

There is no danger from having the element touch the side of the copper tube. It is just a hot resistor at that point.

I recirc at full throttle during the mash. In other words I open the valves fully once I am doughed in. This helps maintain more even temps.

I power 1 element, 1 pump and 1 Love control from 1 15 amp outlet. I power another element and pump from a second circuit in my garage.

On a 5 gallon batch I see about 2 degrees per minute temp rise. Most days I set up before dinner, get everything running and go inside for an hour, when I come back out, I am ready to dough in, then I can disappear for another hour and put my son to bed.

I generally watch the sparge and boil fairly closely.

Linc
 
I apologize. The picture is a bit of a mess. You can see where I ran the green wire from both elements to a grounding clamp. There is no need to buy the $7 clamp when the copper mounting clamps will work just as well.

Upside_down.JPG


I guess you could say the mounting clamp and eyelet are version 2.0

Linc
 
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