Dirty aftertaste

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Brewsmack

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So I brewed this mini mash kit, pacific pale ale, kegged it after 2 weeks, chilled it and have been drinking on it for probly 2 weeks. It was good at first, but now I'm starting to notice a dirty after taste. Not sure how to describe it other than dusty or dirty. Any ideas?
 
There was a time when I was sensative to the smell/taste of the alcohol itself. Kind of a musty basement smell.
 
I can't smell it in the beer. Only taste it afterwards. Musty might be close, not mildewy tho. If you've ever tasted ice cream that's been in the freezer too long, that's what it reminds me of. Freezer burnt maybe.
 
Aging is key to reducing most off flavors. It sounds to me like you kegged it too soon. Beer needs to sit on the yeast for at least a few days (I prefer about 10) after the gravity stops dropping. This allows the yeast to absorb many of the off flavor causing compounds. Most new home brewers are (understandably) in too much of a rush and bottle/keg too early, as well as start drinking too early. 2 weeks is way fast even for a lower gravity brew...

4 keys to brewing good beer:
-patience
-sanitation
-temperature control
-more PATIENCE!
 
Demus said:
Aging is key to reducing most off flavors. It sounds to me like you kegged it too soon. Beer needs to sit on the yeast for at least a few days (I prefer about 10) after the gravity stops dropping. This allows the yeast to absorb many of the off flavor causing compounds. Most new home brewers are (understandably) in too much of a rush and bottle/keg too early, as well as start drinking too early. 2 weeks is way fast even for a lower gravity brew...

4 keys to brewing good beer:
-patience
-sanitation
-temperature control
-more PATIENCE!

Yeah was my 3rd batch and I didn't condition it at all. I've read a few different philosophies on conditioning. Most agree to leave it on the yeast cake just not too long, say over 30 days? I'd like to free up my fermenter tho for the next batch so I was thinking 2 weeks in the carboy, then transfer to the keg at around 65f for another two weeks. Thoughts?
 
Bithead said:
Hops maybe. Some people get an earthy, dirty taste from some.

Earthy dirty is a good description. Think it was willamette and cascade.
 
Yeah was my 3rd batch and I didn't condition it at all. I've read a few different philosophies on conditioning. Most agree to leave it on the yeast cake just not too long, say over 30 days? I'd like to free up my fermenter tho for the next batch so I was thinking 2 weeks in the carboy, then transfer to the keg at around 65f for another two weeks. Thoughts?

30 days on the yeast isn't any issue at all. I have had batches sit far longer than that and not have any issues. I have a batch (an ESB) that's been sitting in the basement (unfinished/cooler side) for just over 2 months now. I keep intending to transfer it to keg, but other things keep coming up. :mad: Maybe I'll do it this weekend and get that fermenting keg cleaned out and ready for another batch. :D
 
Golddiggie said:
30 days on the yeast isn't any issue at all. I have had batches sit far longer than that and not have any issues. I have a batch (an ESB) that's been sitting in the basement (unfinished/cooler side) for just over 2 months now. I keep intending to transfer it to keg, but other things keep coming up. :mad: Maybe I'll do it this weekend and get that fermenting keg cleaned out and ready for another batch. :D

Ha 2 months?! Beer just doesn't last that long at my house bro! I'm just gonna have to make an extra batch an try it i guess. There are a LOT of differing opinions out there for sure.
 
Ha 2 months?! Beer just doesn't last that long at my house bro! I'm just gonna have to make an extra batch an try it i guess. There are a LOT of differing opinions out there for sure.

Well, luckily, I have 5 fermenting vessels/kegs for my normal sized batches of beer. :D So, I can let a batch go as long as needed. I also have a 50L vessel for fermenting up to about 12.5 gallons at a time. :D
 
Golddiggie said:
Well, luckily, I have 5 fermenting vessels/kegs for my normal sized batches of beer. :D So, I can let a batch go as long as needed. I also have a 50L vessel for fermenting up to about 12.5 gallons at a time. :D

Yeah yeah rub it in why don't you! Lol maybe i'll get there one day.
 
So I brewed this mini mash kit, pacific pale ale, kegged it after 2 weeks, chilled it and have been drinking on it for probly 2 weeks. It was good at first, but now I'm starting to notice a dirty after taste. Not sure how to describe it other than dusty or dirty. Any ideas?

What temperature did you ferment at? Could be fusel alcohol you're tasting. It really has a bite at the end.
 
Yeah yeah rub it in why don't you! Lol maybe i'll get there one day.

Took me a while to get to this level. I would get enough fermenting vessels (whatever you use) so that you can have batches running long enough to become great, and not have to delay a brew day while you wait.

What yeast did you use? Was that temperature the fermenting beer temp or ambient temp??
 
Buckets are cheap. At my lhbs they are 12.48 with drilled lid & grommet. So I grabbed one last time I was there. Unfortunately a late delivery and broke water main moved brew day to Monday. Hopefully I can do both batches. :tank:
 
Diacetyl leaves a buttery or butterscotch type flavor.
When you mentioned to old ice cream it was the first thing I thought of.

The yeast can usually clean it up in fermentation.
Look up diacetyl rest for some idea of the process.
 
Golddiggie said:
Took me a while to get to this level. I would get enough fermenting vessels (whatever you use) so that you can have batches running long enough to become great, and not have to delay a brew day while you wait.

What yeast did you use? Was that temperature the fermenting beer temp or ambient temp??

Ambient. It was a kit from Austin brew supply I think it was white labs liquid ale yeast.
 
E-Mursed said:
Diacetyl leaves a buttery or butterscotch type flavor.
When you mentioned to old ice cream it was the first thing I thought of.

The yeast can usually clean it up in fermentation.
Look up diacetyl rest for some idea of the process.

Definitely not buttery. Dirty dusty earthy is how it tastes. Cool I'll look it up for sure.
 
Ambient. It was a kit from Austin brew supply I think it was white labs liquid ale yeast.

Find out which yeast and look up it's optimum fermenting temperature. You can safely 'assume' that the fermenting temp was 5-10F above ambient. If you moved it from the yeast too soon, you could be getting the off flavors that the yeast would have cleaned up had you not moved it too soon. If you dry hopped it, and left them in the brew too long, that could be the flavors you're getting.
 
Yeah was my 3rd batch and I didn't condition it at all. I've read a few different philosophies on conditioning. Most agree to leave it on the yeast cake just not too long, say over 30 days? I'd like to free up my fermenter tho for the next batch so I was thinking 2 weeks in the carboy, then transfer to the keg at around 65f for another two weeks. Thoughts?

Again, 2 weeks is just waay too soon. Try to avoid black and white, one size fits all answers. Age it on the yeast at least one week after the gravity stops dropping and your problems will likely go away. Believe me, it's worth the wait. If it's turn time you're concerned with, cough up a few extra bucks for another carboy. Good beer takes time....
 
Golddiggie said:
Find out which yeast and look up it's optimum fermenting temperature. You can safely 'assume' that the fermenting temp was 5-10F above ambient. If you moved it from the yeast too soon, you could be getting the off flavors that the yeast would have cleaned up had you not moved it too soon. If you dry hopped it, and left them in the brew too long, that could be the flavors you're getting.

California ale 68-73. No dry hopping yet. I'm leaning towards the moved it too soon theory. I've got a batch of mock fat tire going. Sunday is 2 weeks, its not crystal clear yet, but I was planning to move it to a keg Sunday and let it condition in the keg for 2 weeks before chilling. Think I'll just let it sit instead and see what happens. After that is it ok to keg a chill immediately? I mean how do you know for sure?
 
Demus said:
Again, 2 weeks is just waay too soon. Try to avoid black and white, one size fits all answers. Age it on the yeast at least one week after the gravity stops dropping and your problems will likely go away. Believe me, it's worth the wait. If it's turn time you're concerned with, cough up a few extra bucks for another carboy. Good beer takes time....

How do you know when enough is enough?
 
California ale 68-73. No dry hopping yet. I'm leaning towards the moved it too soon theory. I've got a batch of mock fat tire going. Sunday is 2 weeks, its not crystal clear yet, but I was planning to move it to a keg Sunday and let it condition in the keg for 2 weeks before chilling. Think I'll just let it sit instead and see what happens. After that is it ok to keg a chill immediately? I mean how do you know for sure?

Dude, leave it alone until it's actually ready. If you need the fermenting vessel for another batch, go buy another one. IMO, NOT worth moving a beer before it's ready.
 
As a follow on, I just re-read the thread and noticed it's only your 3rd batch. I brewed plenty of stinkers at that level!! Assuming good sanitation, the most important variable in fermentation is temperature. The temperature of the beer, not the air around it. During active fermentation, (1st few days when bubbling like crazy) your beer can be as much as 10 degrees higher than the air around it. Too warm can definitely lead to off flavors. Consult the yeast company for ideal temperature for strain. As the ferment slows, you have to raise the air temp so the beer doesn't cool. The best setup is an extra fridge with a temperature controller. Low tech solutions include moving it around to different locations in the house, ice water baths and blankets.
Another very important variable is aeration. Most new brewers and even some experienced ones just don't get enough oxygen into the wort before pitching the yeast. They shake the carboy for a few minutes and call it good. This results in all kinds of fermentation problems including off flavors and under attenuation (not getting down to final gravity). I read a study done by White labs that showed 5 minutes of the "shake and splash" resulted in less than half of the required dissolved oxygen yeast need to get a proper start for a good ferment. I use an oxygen tank and metal air stone to inject oxygen into the wort. The same type of stone and an aquarium pump works also, but you have to leave it on longer (at least 10 minutes vs 1 with O2). This is especially important if you are only pitching a vile or smack pack of yeast. This is "underpitching", or not pitching the recommended amount of yeast for a given gravity beer. Since oxygen is a key factor in yeast reproduction, you have a two-fold problem, not enough healthy yeast to ferment your beer properly.
I'm off on this rant to stress the fact that we make wort, it's the yeast that make the beer. A fairly boring, plain-jane recipe that has been properly fermented by happy, healthy yeast will very likely taste better than the most creative, delicious sounding recipe that was under-pitched, under-aerated and not temperature controlled.
All this said, your beer will very likely still improve if you let it age. I've been disappointed by many a first taste and it never ceases to amaze me how much a month or more cool in the bottle or keg improves a beer.

Welcome to the world's best hobby!!!!!

:mug:
 
Demus said:
As a follow on, I just re-read the thread and noticed it's only your 3rd batch. I brewed plenty of stinkers at that level!! Assuming good sanitation, the most important variable in fermentation is temperature. The temperature of the beer, not the air around it. During active fermentation, (1st few days when bubbling like crazy) your beer can be as much as 10 degrees higher than the air around it. Too warm can definitely lead to off flavors. Consult the yeast company for ideal temperature for strain. As the ferment slows, you have to raise the air temp so the beer doesn't cool. The best setup is an extra fridge with a temperature controller. Low tech solutions include moving it around to different locations in the house, ice water baths and blankets.
Another very important variable is aeration. Most new brewers and even some experienced ones just don't get enough oxygen into the wort before pitching the yeast. They shake the carboy for a few minutes and call it good. This results in all kinds of fermentation problems including off flavors and under attenuation (not getting down to final gravity). I read a study done by White labs that showed 5 minutes of the "shake and splash" resulted in less than half of the required dissolved oxygen yeast need to get a proper start for a good ferment. I use an oxygen tank and metal air stone to inject oxygen into the wort. The same type of stone and an aquarium pump works also, but you have to leave it on longer (at least 10 minutes vs 1 with O2). This is especially important if you are only pitching a vile or smack pack of yeast. This is "underpitching", or not pitching the recommended amount of yeast for a given gravity beer. Since oxygen is a key factor in yeast reproduction, you have a two-fold problem, not enough healthy yeast to ferment your beer properly.
I'm off on this rant to stress the fact that we make wort, it's the yeast that make the beer. A fairly boring, plain-jane recipe that has been properly fermented by happy, healthy yeast will very likely taste better than the most creative, delicious sounding recipe that was under-pitched, under-aerated and not temperature controlled.
All this said, your beer will very likely still improve if you let it age. I've been disappointed by many a first taste and it never ceases to amaze me how much a month or more cool in the bottle or keg improves a beer.

Welcome to the world's best hobby!!!!!

:mug:

Lol you mean the worlds most complex? Temp controlled fermenting? Man I gotta long way to go!
 
Learning 'yeast wrangling' will help you to get better and better beer in your glass. Not imposing a human time frame on the yeast is the first step. Giving them enough O2, nutrients, and time are also big steps along that path. Pitching the correct amount of yeast cells (or at least within 5-10% of where you should be) also seriously helps.

There's a metric ass-ton of posts/threads about all of these subjects already, so I won't go into them [much]. I will say that you can get O2 into the wort faster/easier with a pure O2 system. Starters will give you the cell count you need, with stirplates making the starters smaller and finish faster. :fro::D

BTW, you might want to get the Yeast book. :D At $12.50 it's money well spent. :D
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Golddiggie said:
Taste and experience... IMO/IME, leaving it in primary longer won't do any harm. I've had brews in primary for more than three months without issue. Moving too soon is the source of the majority of the issues for new brewers.

Thanks for all the great info. Gonna let this next batch sit another week or 2!
 
Learning 'yeast wrangling' will help you to get better and better beer in your glass. Not imposing a human time frame on the yeast is the first step. Giving them enough O2, nutrients, and time are also big steps along that path. Pitching the correct amount of yeast cells (or at least within 5-10% of where you should be) also seriously helps.

There's a metric ass-ton of posts/threads about all of these subjects already, so I won't go into them [much]. I will say that you can get O2 into the wort faster/easier with a pure O2 system. Starters will give you the cell count you need, with stirplates making the starters smaller and finish faster. :fro::D

BTW, you might want to get the Yeast book. :D At $12.50 it's money well spent. :D

++++ on the "Yeast" book. Much of the info on fermentation in homebrew books is out dated or just incomplete. A book devoted to the most important ingredient in beer is definitely NOT overkill!!! Great read with lots of info that will lead to better tasting, more consistent beer...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
++++ on the "Yeast" book. Much of the info on fermentation in homebrew books is out dated or just incomplete. A book devoted to the most important ingredient in beer is definitely NOT overkill!!! Great read with lots of info that will lead to better tasting, more consistent beer...

IMO, it's a book any homebrewer that's serious about getting great beer into his glass/belly should have. I have it on the shelf with my few other brewing related books. It's probably made the greatest impact on my beers so far.
 
Demus said:
As a follow on, I just re-read the thread and noticed it's only your 3rd batch. I brewed plenty of stinkers at that level!! Assuming good sanitation, the most important variable in fermentation is temperature. The temperature of the beer, not the air around it. During active fermentation, (1st few days when bubbling like crazy) your beer can be as much as 10 degrees higher than the air around it. Too warm can definitely lead to off flavors. Consult the yeast company for ideal temperature for strain. As the ferment slows, you have to raise the air temp so the beer doesn't cool. The best setup is an extra fridge with a temperature controller. Low tech solutions include moving it around to different locations in the house, ice water baths and blankets.
Another very important variable is aeration. Most new brewers and even some experienced ones just don't get enough oxygen into the wort before pitching the yeast. They shake the carboy for a few minutes and call it good. This results in all kinds of fermentation problems including off flavors and under attenuation (not getting down to final gravity). I read a study done by White labs that showed 5 minutes of the "shake and splash" resulted in less than half of the required dissolved oxygen yeast need to get a proper start for a good ferment. I use an oxygen tank and metal air stone to inject oxygen into the wort. The same type of stone and an aquarium pump works also, but you have to leave it on longer (at least 10 minutes vs 1 with O2). This is especially important if you are only pitching a vile or smack pack of yeast. This is "underpitching", or not pitching the recommended amount of yeast for a given gravity beer. Since oxygen is a key factor in yeast reproduction, you have a two-fold problem, not enough healthy yeast to ferment your beer properly.
I'm off on this rant to stress the fact that we make wort, it's the yeast that make the beer. A fairly boring, plain-jane recipe that has been properly fermented by happy, healthy yeast will very likely taste better than the most creative, delicious sounding recipe that was under-pitched, under-aerated and not temperature controlled.
All this said, your beer will very likely still improve if you let it age. I've been disappointed by many a first taste and it never ceases to amaze me how much a month or more cool in the bottle or keg improves a beer.

Welcome to the world's best hobby!!!!!

:mug:

Any good threads or sites with instructions on the temp controlled fridges?
 
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/ (have fun reading)

Building the temp controller will set you back about $40, once you put it together (very straightforward). The chest type freezer can best be found on craigslist for $75 to $100 for a 7 cu. ft. These are pretty common and can hold two 5 gallon buckets. You can also convert it to a keezer, as well. You probably know a family member or coworker who is looking to sell one if you asked. We actually gave an almost new one away years ago before I got into this hobby.
 
Any good threads or sites with instructions on the temp controlled fridges?

Tons on this forum or even try a google search. Sorry I'm not too computer savvy or I'd post a link for ya. I do remember seeing one that showed a way to convert the existing thermostat in a chest freezer so it would set temperatures above freezing. I went the easy route and plugged mine into an analogue controller available on just about all the home brew sites. Just plug in to any fridge or freezer and you're ready to roll, couldn't be easier..
 
Demus said:
Tons on this forum or even try a google search. Sorry I'm not too computer savvy or I'd post a link for ya. I do remember seeing one that showed a way to convert the existing thermostat in a chest freezer so it would set temperatures above freezing. I went the easy route and plugged mine into an analogue controller available on just about all the home brew sites. Just plug in to any fridge or freezer and you're ready to roll, couldn't be easier..

Awesome see one at morebeer.com under $50 didn't know they made those
 
Remember there is some things that you have to have so previous notions: dyacetil is something that most homebrewers that I know can´t pick up in small doses, tannins on the other hand are easy (some dusty mouthfeel in your gums), just read read read and taste taste taste.

This is from another thread called palate training. After tasting the same dirty after taste in New Belgiums Black Ale I decided to do some more research. Thoughts on tannins?
 

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