Working on my RIMS build

Hi guys,

I posted a few days ago in regards to my RIMS system that I acquired from a guy who started the project but never had a chance to finish it. It is a two tier (HLT above the MLT and BK) single pump system. It was a pretty ingenious project that could potentially be a nice looking and functioning system.

I purchased a PID, SSR and heat sink to operate the heater element. I am cleaning up the welds, welding a few more items on the stand for the control panel. I will posts pics and maybe you guys can give me advice on what I should do or comment on the build.


Thanks

Can someone please help me post a pic in my thread...I tried everything but cannot figure it out.

Thanks

go to someplace like http://imageshack.us/
upload the pic to image shack. then copy the hotlink provided after the upload and paste here in the forum. It will then show up in your post.

cool...I will try it.

Thanks

Click on the pic to see a little bigger detail. There is a "full size" tab once it redirects you for a better view.

I bought it from a guy that never had a chance to finish it...Needed alot work and still does.

It is a RIMS system. The HLT sits above the MLT and the Brew Kettle. I added the control panel and brace today and finished welding up the framework. The control panel will house the PID, Relay, Heatsink and some other minor stuff to turn on the pump (located on the bottom of the frame).

All kegs (still need to do one) have SS couplers welded on them for a thermometer, sightglass and SS ball valves. The Mash Tun has a 1/2" SS coupling welded to the bottom center of the keggle. I've never seen this before, but the false bottom he bought for the mashtun is nice and heavyduty and it should drain pretty clean (I HOPE).

In the copper cylinder there is a 4500W heater element that will run on a 25A relay @ 1100W which should be fine for maintaining a mash temperature of 150+ while it recirculates. The temperature probe for the system will be located just before it goes into the heat exchanger and up into the sparging arm that is inside of the mash tun (cant see it...all copper)

The guy originally had a menagerie of copper plumbing that connected everything in the front of the stand, unfortunately It is not complete and messy. Aside from the copper pictured.............I am going to keep it simple. I will have SS ball valves throughout the sytem to direct flow and use QDC's and sections of silicone hose to transfer product between kettles.

The HLT and Brew Kettle both have 55,000 propane burners. I have to hard plumb those. I will be using black pipe gas line for it. The Mash Tun obviously has no burner.

Well for now I kinda described which way I am headed with this thing. It still needs paint and some minor welding...I'll post more as I progress.

IF THERE IS ANY FEEDBACK OR QUESTIONS PLEASE FEEL FREE TO ASK ME....IT IS MY FIRST RIMS AND NEED GUIDANCE OR ADVICE.

Thanks
Joe

ILOVEBEER said:

The temperature probe for the system will be located just before it goes into the heat exchanger and up into the sparging arm that is inside of the mash tun (cant see it...all copper)

Click to expand...

I think you will have a more accurate indication of mash temperature if you measure the temperature going out of the RIMS heat exchanger rather than going in to the RIMS heat exchanger.

Sawdustguy said:

I think you will have a more accurate indication of mash temperature if you measure the temperature going out of the RIMS heat exchanger rather than going in to the RIMS heat exchanger.

Click to expand...

+1 on this. You will be better off measuring what your heater is doing NOW, than measuring what it did 20 minutes ago.

Awesome. I may have read incorrectly. I will definitely move the reference probe up after it travels through the heating element chamber.

What do you guys think about the food grade hose idea instead of the copper manifold?

If you look at the pic, the middle keg is the mash tun. The pump is located directly below the mash tun (on the frame). The mash tun has a SS coupling welded to the bottom of the keg with a SS ball valve. I was considering hooking up a 1' section of hose to the intake side of the pump and up to the bottom of the mash tun....Flow would be controlled with the ball valve located on the bottom of the mash tun.
....then.....
A section of 5' hose with a QDC would serve to complete the loop from the discharge side of the pump (with a QDC) to the bottom of the copper heat exchanger which is ball valved also. The wort can circulate through the exchanger and remain flow controlled within the exchanger coming out of the sparge arm and circulate clockwise through the system.


Once the mash process is done, I would remove the 5' section...flow a little to see if the wort is clear and connect the same 5' section of hose to the side of the BK and use the pump to move wort into the side ball valve and begin the cooking process in the fired kettle.

I know it is long winded, but like I said It is my first RIMS system and want to run it by those in the know.

Thank you for your time.


Joe:rockin:

PS...what do you guys think of the build so far?

ILOVEBEER said:

Awesome. I may have read incorrectly. I will definitely move the reference probe up after it travels through the heating element chamber.

What do you guys think about the food grade hose idea instead of the copper manifold?

If you look at the pic, the middle keg is the mash tun. The pump is located directly below the mash tun (on the frame). The mash tun has a SS coupling welded to the bottom of the keg with a SS ball valve. I was considering hooking up a 1' section of hose to the intake side of the pump and up to the bottom of the mash tun....Flow would be controlled with the ball valve located on the bottom of the mash tun.
....then.....
A section of 5' hose with a QDC would serve to complete the loop from the discharge side of the pump (with a QDC) to the bottom of the copper heat exchanger which is ball valved also. The wort can circulate through the exchanger and remain flow controlled within the exchanger coming out of the sparge arm and circulate clockwise through the system.


Once the mash process is done, I would remove the 5' section...flow a little to see if the wort is clear and connect the same 5' section of hose to the side of the BK and use the pump to move wort into the side ball valve and begin the cooking process in the fired kettle.

I know it is long winded, but like I said It is my first RIMS system and want to run it by those in the know.

Thank you for your time.


Joe:rockin:

PS...what do you guys think of the build so far?

Click to expand...

My brewery is hard plumbed. I had the foresight to add a couple of tee's and valves to flush out the RIMS Tube. I think if I have to do it over again I would have used silicone hose and QD's. You would not believe the debris I flush out of the RIMS Tube after a brew. The flaw in your plan is that you want to have the valve on the input side of the pump. If it is a March pump it is magneticall coupled and designed to have it's output restricted without damage. You will need to adjust the flow through the RIMS Tube and using a valve before the pump to adjust the flow will only cause the pump to cavitate.

I do have a magnetic pump.

I was thinking about the cleanup within the copper manifold....it looks aweome but I didnt think the cleanup would be fun. I will probably stick with the silicone hose idea then, thanks for confirming my idea.

So basically I need the valve on the OUTPUT side of the pump and have fluid flow freely into the INPUT side? Am I understanding this correctly?


Thank you again for your time
Joe

ILOVEBEER said:

I do have a magnetic pump.

I was thinking about the cleanup within the copper manifold....it looks aweome but I didnt think the cleanup would be fun. I will probably stick with the silicone hose idea then, thanks for confirming my idea.

So basically I need the valve on the OUTPUT side of the pump and have fluid flow freely into the INPUT side? Am I understanding this correctly?


Thank you again for your time
Joe

Click to expand...

Correct. If you restrict the input to the pump you could cause the pump to cavitate. The magnetic pump is designed to have it's output restricted by a valve.

Cool. Thank you