Sanyo SR-4431S

I thought I was picking up a used Sanyo 4912 , but instead it turned out to be a SR-4431S. It seems like it will still work as a kegerator, but I'm not sure how to remove the top shelf in the pictures. There seems to be a line attached to the back of it. Let me know what you guys think.

Also, do you think there is a way to move the thermostat to the top?

Thanks

After doing some more research, I realize this portion of the refridge cannot be removed or moved. I have about 25" from the bottom of the fridge to the bottom of the freezer pan.

A corney key is 23" tall and a low profile coupler is 1" tall, which would put me somewhere around ~24" for the setup ... that should give me room to fit in there. Can anyone confirm this, or measure there corny ket w/ their low profile coupler?

Thanks

I have the regular disconnects on mine, and I measured 25 1/4 to the top of the disconnect, and 25 1/2 to the top of the mfl connector. But my corny is almost 25" high... to the top of the handles at least.

Also, why do you say that the shelf cannot be removed? Just because there are coils on the bottom of it? Post some pictures and we'll see if we can help you out.

Here are the pics with what im talking about, sorry for not highlighting it before.









Let me know if you need anymore pics / information.

I appreciate your help.

Here is the dimensions i referred to:

Well you could either bend the tray up slightly, or bend it down all the way. Bending it up would be easier. If you push on the middle of the tray it should bow and clear the sides. Then just push the whole thing up, bending a slight 'S' in the tube. Be very careful though, because you don't want to break the tube or the tray.

unless I didn't see the picture properly you should be able to slide that tray out. The temperature probe shouldn't be that much of a problem. Is there any way you can pull it down to try and prevent it from getting a false reading? Worst case scenario its around $50-$100 for an external switch to turn on and off the fridge compressor.

The thing with your "shelf" is that it is not just a shelf. That would be the part of the fridge that makes it cold. On the 4912 that piece is mounted on the rear wall of the fridge. I have no way to see in the pictures if this could be removed and moved to the back or not. You would just have to be careful when bending or pulling so that you don't break any of the copper tubing.

So close yet so far. Is it really possible to bend the tubing to 90 degrees without cracking it do you think? If so, that would be very nice for chilling kegs with that tray situated along the back of the fridge. If not, terrible news. Destroyed, unrepairable fridge and a face full of refrigerant.

Is it a problem if the tubing gets kinked but not broken, so that the sealed system is still intact but with no refrigerant circulating in the shelf area?

If it were me. I would return the fridge if possible because if you crack that tube then you have a very expensive cabinet.

I think this is the same model fridge I did it to before- make sure the little black plastic retainers are gone from the back edge. Gently bow the shelf in a U fashion, just enough you can get the sides free of the plastic slots on the edge (gentle!). Then, slowly bend it to the back of the fridge (more then likely you will scuff the plastic lining up some, but who else is going to see it?). Do not bend the connection on the back enough to pinch it- Put something behind it, not as large as a beer can, to support and promote a smooth bend. You should be able to bend it to the back of the fridge, the top portion protruding just a little more then the bottom. After you're done, plug her back in, check for leaks, and enjoy!

From reading here:
Draft Beer Keg Size Dimensions

The corny keg is 23" and the low profile coupler is ~1", which is ~24". I think I may be able to fit this in there without any major bending.

Can anyone very any measurements with a corny keg and a low profile coupler?

I picked this up off craigslist, it wasn't a whole lot of money, but I'd like to make this thing work since its a nice size. Originally they told me it was Sanyo 4912 and it looked like it from all angles, but when I brought it home ... it wasn't.

Thanks

I just read that the corn kegs don't fit the low profile d coupler.

Beeroske said:

From reading here:
Draft Beer Keg Size Dimensions

The corny keg is 23" and the low profile coupler is ~1", which is ~24". I think I may be able to fit this in there without any major bending.

Can anyone very any measurements with a corny keg and a low profile coupler?

I picked this up off craigslist, it wasn't a whole lot of money, but I'd like to make this thing work since its a nice size. Originally they told me it was Sanyo 4912 and it looked like it from all angles, but when I brought it home ... it wasn't.

Thanks

Click to expand...

I have six cornies. All of them look exactly the same. They are all close to 26" tall with couplers. The coupler itself only sticks above the collar by at most half an inch. These are the only cornies I have seen, especially on the refurbished market. Meaning they were available for <$25. I have seen other shapes and sizes of cornies brand new but the minimum price for those was $150.

I bought all six of my cornies with rebuild kits delivered for less than $150.

I just read moratorium's post. Sounds helpful and hopeful for you. Since this is a CL find then by all means give that a try. It's worth a $100 risk the way he descibes it. 1/4" copper is not all that fragile. Maybe a 1" piece of dowel could serve as the bending guide.

MoRoToRiUm said:

I think this is the same model fridge I did it to before- make sure the little black plastic retainers are gone from the back edge. Gently bow the shelf in a U fashion, just enough you can get the sides free of the plastic slots on the edge (gentle!). Then, slowly bend it to the back of the fridge (more then likely you will scuff the plastic lining up some, but who else is going to see it?). Do not bend the connection on the back enough to pinch it- Put something behind it, not as large as a beer can, to support and promote a smooth bend. You should be able to bend it to the back of the fridge, the top portion protruding just a little more then the bottom. After you're done, plug her back in, check for leaks, and enjoy!

Click to expand...

Is removing the top the same for the 4912? I can't find any screws and I tried to just lift it up but it seems glued down.

Didn't get that far- he used picnic taps, and then after a couple of months I bent it back and he sold it on CL after he got a freezer...

If there are no screws on the back, or front edge, it may be glued down. With the chill plate being as it is, there are probably no freon lines in the top. I would unplug it, let it defrost and come to room temp, plug it in and see if the top gets warm at all. It SHOULD be safe to drill straight though without pulling off the top (although harder to install rails if you want them)...

As far as removing the glue, do you have a steam iron? If you can work the back edge off a little and keep steaming it you may be able to slowly pry it off safely. Good luck! Keep us posted/feel free to ask more if you find out anything new!

Anyone else use one of these for a kegerator?

Sorry to wake up an old thread, but anyone else use this model? Just got one for free and nut much HB literature on it....